BIG ROCCO

Thanks for the photo.  Wow, that's a lot of threads - they must extend quite a ways past the cylinder head into the combustion chamber?  I could see why they might feel tight/draggy coming out - you must be cleaning the deposits off all those long threads as you remove the plugs?  I guess I would use a loosen 3 turns/tighten 1/4 turn procedure...or something like that, like when using a tap, only in reverse.  I have used a LITTLE anti-seize on spark plug threads to prevent galling since the 70's...then tighten the 3/8" ratchet, never 1/2" or one with too long a handle or a breaker bar, by hand/feel - I never have used a torque wrench that i can remember.  I also have used anti-seize or light grease or even just a little light oil or trans fluid on wheel studs...whatever is handy, just to prevent the threads from galling...knock on wood, no problems yet - the wheel nuts I do use a clicker torque wrench for the last 20-25 years.

I'm not disagreeing, but once you get the engine and trans out of the car, I'll bet it's a pretty easy swap of the trans.  I had to do replace the head gaskets on my '97 Eldorado 10-12 years ago.  The best and easiest way was to drop the entire cradle (containing the engine, trans, rack and pinion, and drive shafts and steering knuckles) out the bottom of the car.  That engine was massive and really shoe horned into the car, but it was a dream to work on once it was out.  I have a attached a few pics for anyone who is interested.

That sounds awful!

1/2" breaker bar - I use an impact socket part of a set from HF.  Always works fine not sure of the size.  To change the oil, I jack up first one side and then the other on the front end.  I use a floor jack and lift behind the front wheels.  As I jack up each side, i place a small HF jackstand immediately adjacent to the jack saddle, on the rocker panel.  To change the oil, I crawl under the car and start removing the bolts that hold on the lower engine cover.  When the last ones come out, the cover drops onto my chest/belly.  Then drain the oil and change the oil filter - standard stuff.  Reverse the process to install the cover.  Leave the jackstands in place, remove the front tires, then use your floorjack to raise each rear corner (jack from underneath, in front of the rear tires)  and remove and replace the tires.  Finally place the tires from the rear up front and jack and remove the jackstand and lower each corner.  I change the oil when the car says to change - usually ~ 10K, so that's a good tire rotation interval, too.  If you are more conservative about your oil change intervals, it wouldn't do any harm to rotate your tires more frequently (7K? 5K), too

Something is definitely wrong!  Typically, it's the front tires that wear out quickly on a front drive car.  I read somewhere once that if you don't rotate your tires on a front drive car, the front ones will wear out very quickly, and the rear tires will last 100K+ miles.  Please let us know what you learn.

Yes - I would urge you get a later model if possible.  We had a '13 - had some minor issues resolved under warranty - when i totaled it, we got a '15 - it has never been back to the dealer for any repairs, in nearly 3 years

I have seen weep holes in mufflers for a long time - they help prevent condensate build up and are a good thing and certainly nothing to worry about

I suggest you search e-bay for Ford CMAX spare tire

Yeah, try to adjust to keep it under 70MPH and you will be more pleased with the MPG

Was it in the ready to drive? I've done that a few times without realizing that it didn't actually register that my foot was on the brake.

Yeah, that

Yeah, i notice the C-Max does transmit some road noise in the driver's door area, at least compared to my 2012 Lacrosse...which is very nice and quiet, i would say.  Maybe the weatherstrip issue Noah mentioned is worth investigating.

In the older cars, I'd always go for lower mileage, unless there's documentation the tranny's been properly fixed. Our 2013'ers are "special."

Frank

You bring up a good point - I don't think the Energi is affected/afflicted with the trans issue, as it has an auxiliary fluid pump...or am I wrong?

We had a '13 SEL, it was totaled, we replaced it with an identically equipped '15, it seems like they addressed some first year car issues in the later years, so personally, I would stay away from any '13 if I were looking to buy used.  I think the SEL (and the NRG?) dodges some issue the SEs had, so in my case, I would also avoid an SE

LOL nothing ever rusts here in Phoenix

I was thinking it could be overcharge or moisture in the system, and i found this article that spells out the causes and effects better than i could:

http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/19950306/ISSUE/303069998/orifice-tube-system-reservoir-effect-of-the-accumulator-helps-it-withstand-overcharges-better-than-non-accumulator-type-systems-accurate-charging-essential&template=printart

Thanks for the great write up with pics - not a problem I have had (that I ever noticed) on out '13 SEL or our '15 SEL, but your documentation is great and appreciated

I guess this might make the electric liftgate a nice feature?

It's been a really hot Summer in Phoenix..especially June and early July.  While our '15 does not have a lifetime MPG like our '13 did, we have never reset the MPG, so maybe that means it is a lifetime average (not sure if the earliest data drops off at some point);  it was at 45MPG before the Summer, we are now at 44.7MPG at about 15K miles total.  I think the AC use is the culprit, but the important thing is it works very, very well, even when it's 115 or 120 degrees out.

After reading the subject, I thought the OP obob was going to continue with "Ask me how I know!" :giggle:

For what it's worth, it's usually so hot here in Phoenix that as long as it's Summer (~May to October), I now drain the oil from a "cold" engine - cold typically being the ~ 100F+ degrees it is in my garage.  The oil drains quite well at that temp.  Maybe, just maybe, a little more oil remains in the pan than if I warmed up the engine, but more oil has also drained back into the pan from the top end, so I feel it is a wash, at worst, and the comfort of not dealing with a hot engine and hot oil is a big plus.

I'm not certain where I jack from - I thought it was the lower control arm - maybe not.  My preference is to jack far away from externally visible painted surfaces.  The jackstands I use on the front are something similar to this - only ~ 1 foot high minimum height and the saddle is nice and small to fit in where it needs to go and base is not so large as to get in the way:

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/jack-stands/3-ton-steel-jack-stands-61196.html

Oh - here's a picture!

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_26554.jpg

We liked our '13 enough that, when I totaled it, we considered all our choices and replaced the '13 SEL with an identical '15 SEL- same colors inside and out, same options.  It's a great car  That said, I think my 2012 Buick Lacrosse (mild hybrid) is the best car I have ever owned, and I have owned 4 Cadillacs and a Lincoln (and 4 Pontiacs and 4 Mercurys).  I consider the Lacrosse and the C-Max as good complements to each other.  The Lacrosse is larger inside, quieter, looks better, better interior style and materials, has a better sound system (H-K).  The C-Max gets better MPG (45 MPG vs. 33 MPG), is more maneuverable/handles better, offers a more engaged driving experience, is a hatchback and so can carry things that I can't get in the small Lacrosse trunk.  We just went to Las Vegas - took the Buick.  For driving locally, the C-Max is preferred.

i use the "arrows" area in the front, then some small HF jackstands.  Once both front wheels are off the ground, I use the floorjack somewhere under each lower control arm in the rear, one at a time.

Our 2013 was 45.9 MPG lifetime after ~ 30K miles when it was totaled.  Our 2015 replacement has settled in at the last few months at a steady 45.0 MPG lifetime after ~13K miles.  The 2013 was driven more on long, highway trips to the AZ mountains, when we had a second home there.  The 2015 is used mostly for short trips, around town.

This happens to me all the time. I feel like I'm stepping hard enough on the brake, but must not be because the ready to drive light doesn't come on. I don't drive my car very often and I feel that maybe I haven't got used to the pressure required. It usually doesn't happen in my garage, just when I'm out running errands. Although it concerns me, sometimes I go 2-3 weeks between driving it (i have a commuter car that I'm trying to wear out) and I think it's user error.

Happens to me all the time on our '15, too.  It did not happen on our '13.  You really have to step on the brake pedal kind of hard.  Maybe, the brake switch could be adjusted?  Maybe they made the brake switch not go on so soon deliberately, so very slight braking to max out regen will not trigger the brake light?  Kind of annoying - I might look into it someday.

Thank you :)