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Starting at the end of 2022 my car started to display the Stop Safely Now when I would first turn it on and would go away after turning the car off and turning it back on. It got progressively worse to the point it would shut off while driving and got the Ford Dealer to look at it. It's been in the shop 3 times since then and the problem has managed to get worse. They've so far replaced the High Voltage Service Disconnect, the DC/DC Converter, and the TCM. After replacing the TCM they test drove it for a couple days and were presented with the same issues. The codes the got the last time they plugged it in were P0A1F, P0A0A, and P1A10. They also performed Pinpoint Test Test D in the WSM with the following results: D1=Yes, D2=NO, D3=Yes, D4=Yes, D5=Yes, D6=No, D7=Yes. They said the only part to replace per the pinpoint test is the High Voltage A/C Compressor but were unsure if this would fix the problem. They also asked if the issue was only happening when the A/C or Heat is on but I was not positive if that was the case as I use the climate control sparingly. Today after 1 day out of the shop the issue presented itself 6 times on the ride home which is less than 8 Miles. The first time it was in EV mode and the remaining 5 times I had it in EV Later mode. The Heating/Cooling system was off for the whole ride. When I would try to turn the car back in it would take at least 3 key cycles before it would finally start with no issue. I plugged in my ODB2 reader when I finally got it home and got the following codes: P0A0A, P0E57, U1029, U3012, and P0B37. I'm not sure what to do at this point as I would rather not replace the a/c compressor if it may not be a guaranteed fix and was quoted for $2,600. Looking for any input and wondering if anyone has had similar issues. I will try to answer any questions to the best of my ability. Thanks!

Dealer says the audio module has failed. Replacing that is $1300. The car also needs 60K service, which is ~ $1257. Worth fixing? Another factor is I have 2 teenagers who have not yet learned to drive. The C-MAX is a good car to learn in because it's easy to drive and fairly small. Maybe keep the C-MAX but just do minimal maintenance, deal with having no audio and no audible backup sensor, and shop for a replacement car without being rushed? The car is at the shop right now, and I need to make a decision. Anyone have life advice for me? :)

Does this sound familiar? My 2017 Energi's Sync has become laggy and forgetful. Sometimes it works normally, but more than half the time, my button pushes to select radio and phone options have become suggestions instead of orders. It's taken up to 20 seconds for routine button commands like radio tuning and audio source to take effect. Once I got a spam call on my phone, in the car. I'd dumped that call on the phone for five seconds before it came in separately over the SYNC, where I had to dump it again. I've been through one round with the local Ford dealer. Yes, sometimes this happens, and sometimes a software refresh can help. But in my case, it didn't. They've offered to apply that $170 towards a $1000 replacement of the "hub," a unit behind the Sync screen. Have any of you tried this repair? It's the first big repair for my car, whichh has been utterly reliable and trouble free, otherwise.

Hi, I recently bought a Ford C-Max Energi I had a yellow wrench signal come one, so decreased power though. When I turned the car off and back on it had gone away. I took it to the mechanic and they read the error code (P0dd6) and said one that indicates one of the batteries needs replacing but they couldn't tell me which one although they think it’s the electric one. Is there any chance this is a weird glitch that a software update might resolve or maybe the 12v battery needs to be replaced? Nothing has happened to the car and it isn't acting weird except that light coming on one time. It also only has 102,000 miles on it which seems really odd for the battery to die that young. I'm a student without that much extra cash on hand. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated! Is there any way for me to find out if the electric battery actually needs to be replaced without paying a large fee to have a ford dealer look at it? And if it does and it's not some weird glitch, is there anyone who fixes ford electric batteries? I definitely can't afford a new one... Anyway this is all super stressful for me.

My mother in law just pulled out to leave our house and sideswiped my “new to me” 2013 C-Max hybrid. (No on was hurt, a pick up truck driven by “a maniac” “pushed her into my car” without contacting her car.) ... At any rate, there’s a notable dent and scrape to the left rear quarter panel and I would like to have the car repaired. I see the quarter panel goes for $600 or so and I assume it can still be obtained. I have the sparkly charcoal color, so it would need to be painted to match. Since I (she) is willing to pay whatever it costs, I do want it replaced rather than banged out. Am I better getting a Ford dealer to do this because of parts access, or find a good body shop locally? Thanks. Ugh. Insult to injury, I had spent a few hours washing it for the first time a couple of hours earlier in the day. Thanks. bp

I bought a used C-Max. Any idea how I can tell if the tire repair sealant has been used? I can tell the compressor has been use by the way the cords are wrapped. But I don't see a way to tell if the sealant has been used. Thanks, Ron