2014 CMax Energi power was interrupted while running

[countryfit]

Hello experts, need your help.  My 2014 Energi has been acting up for about half a year by now.  It could happen during idle, on highway running or anything in between - all of the sudden the meters on the cluster panel become inoperable, and light up in red, for a flash of second or two.  Please watch this video I recorded:

https://youtu.be/KLzOuodT5n4

at 11 second toward the end.

 

Initially I thought it was chassis battery connection so I cleaned the terminals very well, and replaced the battery, no cure.  Brought it to a dealer they couldn't duplicate the scenario and no codes from the ECM, so nothing was done.  I am really at the wit's end.  Any input is appreciated.

Steve 

Edited July 14, 2022 by countryfit

[nogoodbum]

At the risk of sounding stupid, check you key fob battery & where it is when this happens. As I understand, it is possible for fob signal to be interfered with by excess coins, keys, or anything metal in your pocket. Thanks for the read. Sorry but I do not qualify as an 'expert' in anything.

[countryfit]

nogoodbum, good point!  The remote is still with the original battery, time for a new one... More brains are better than one. ☺️

Edited July 17, 2022 by countryfit

[cr08]

I'm not quite so sure the keyfob battery is the culprit here. Slowing down the video, what I'm seeing pop up is the brake light and low oil pressure warnings. Could just be an intermittent communication issue between modules. Have you ever actually been actively driving when this happens? If so, does anything else happen like the speedometer bottoming out? How often does this occur?

 

You say you had a dealer check it, but just to completely rule out there being any latent codes, do you have the tools to pull the codes yourself? I highly recommend just for sanity's sake and not having to constantly go to a dealer down the road to get on this. I personally recommend a cheap OBD Bluetooth dongle on Amazon (Make sure it says it can do Ford MS-CAN stuff!) and the ForScan app (Android, iOS, and Windows). This will pull any possible codes the vehicle has stored, even historical codes that dumb scanners may not pick up, as well as Ford specific codes.

 

On the code scanning deal: If this seems to happen at specific times that you could possibly narrow down, being able to check for codes right when it happens could also help. Bare minimum it'll be an extra data point for diagnoses and may even help the dealer out if they cannot replicate themselves.

[countryfit]

On 7/17/2022 at 12:16 PM, cr08 said:

I'm not quite so sure the keyfob battery is the culprit here. Slowing down the video, what I'm seeing pop up is the brake light and low oil pressure warnings. Could just be an intermittent communication issue between modules. Have you ever actually been actively driving when this happens? If so, does anything else happen like the speedometer bottoming out? How often does this occur?

 

You say you had a dealer check it, but just to completely rule out there being any latent codes, do you have the tools to pull the codes yourself? I highly recommend just for sanity's sake and not having to constantly go to a dealer down the road to get on this. I personally recommend a cheap OBD Bluetooth dongle on Amazon (Make sure it says it can do Ford MS-CAN stuff!) and the ForScan app (Android, iOS, and Windows). This will pull any possible codes the vehicle has stored, even historical codes that dumb scanners may not pick up, as well as Ford specific codes.

 

On the code scanning deal: If this seems to happen at specific times that you could possibly narrow down, being able to check for codes right when it happens could also help. Bare minimum it'll be an extra data point for diagnoses and may even help the dealer out if they cannot replicate themselves.

Big thanks!  It happened a few times.  One time I was on highway it flashed, and yes, all meters were reset/bottomed out then back up as normal.  I was in fear of being stranded on the middle of the road.  Luckily it kept going.  Average it's about once a month but no pattern when and where it happens.  The recording was done days ago when I just turned on the car and backing out of garage it happened.  I immediately stopped and caught the second happening.

 

I like the idea of getting a code reader.  Many of them are on Amazon I really don't know which one to go...  Do you have a recommendation?  Highly appreciate it.

[cr08]

On 7/17/2022 at 11:40 PM, countryfit said:

I like the idea of getting a code reader.  Many of them are on Amazon I really don't know which one to go...  Do you have a recommendation?  Highly appreciate it.

 

Here's one, but this is JUST an example. There's many more out there: https://www.amazon.com/Forscan-elm327-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B079KBYP2Q/

 

Telltale sign is it says MS-CAN in the title and also has that switch on the end which is how the unit switches from HS-CAN to MS-CAN and back (the ForScan app mentioned will specifically ask you if the dongle has this switch and will let you know when to flip it). Another tell is if they list ForScan in the name as well. MOST cases of these will do MS-CAN. Technically I think in this case MS-CAN is not needed (Dumbed down version: MS-CAN is for less mission critical modules in the vehicle like climate control, door modules, radio, etc. while HS-CAN is more critical stuff like the PCM/engine computer, BECM/hybrid battery module, IPC/gauge cluster etc. where your issue is likely to be taking place) but it's worth having IMO just in case it is ever needed.

 

If you ever plan to dig into the car a bit more down the road, can splurge a bit, and plan to use a Windows computer at all for this, I can't recommend the OBDLink EX highly enough: Amazon.com: OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter : Automotive

The OBDLink EX will basically do just about everything you could possibly need with this vehicle at least through the ForScan application.

[countryfit]

cr08, awesome, I'll go get one.  On the window version, I am still using laptop with windows but an older version (win 7), I'll ask the seller if it's compatible.  I'd be more than happy to get one of that.  Salute!!

[cr08]

That said, to comment on one of your concerns: So far in all my years in this community I think I've only seen this kind of thing once or twice by other owners but it never seems to be a big enough issue to cause the car to be completely undriveable. And despite it being a bit unnerving I'm sure, there seem to be at least enough failsafe's for it to drive. This just happens to be a communication error to where the IPC (gauge cluster) isn't getting the continuous stream of data from the rest of the car (mostly the PCM/engine computer) and is why it just 'drops' dead for a moment. I won't guarantee that it WONT cause drivability issues down the road, but to the best of my current knowledge and second hand experience from other owners, it just means a temporary communications issue.

 

But that also means it is probably going to be a pain to track down. Checking and verifying all chassis grounds you can find would probably be my first go-to.

[countryfit]

On 7/19/2022 at 4:26 AM, cr08 said:

That said, to comment on one of your concerns: So far in all my years in this community I think I've only seen this kind of thing once or twice by other owners but it never seems to be a big enough issue to cause the car to be completely undriveable. And despite it being a bit unnerving I'm sure, there seem to be at least enough failsafe's for it to drive. This just happens to be a communication error to where the IPC (gauge cluster) isn't getting the continuous stream of data from the rest of the car (mostly the PCM/engine computer) and is why it just 'drops' dead for a moment. I won't guarantee that it WONT cause drivability issues down the road, but to the best of my current knowledge and second hand experience from other owners, it just means a temporary communications issue.

 

But that also means it is probably going to be a pain to track down. Checking and verifying all chassis grounds you can find would probably be my first go-to.

Hack!  You reminded me now and I totally agree that bad grounding can cause all kind of weird behaviors.  I'll clean and resit all grounding contacts where I can access.  

 

On another note, someone confirmed that the OBDLink EX you suggested does work with Win7.  I'll order it, as I do need one regardless (3 Ford vehicles in my family! ? )

 

As always big thanks for your help!