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Recreational Towing (behind a motor home)


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wab,

 

detailed procedure that you follow (successfully) will be a big help as we're heading out again next week.

 

 

Sorry for the late reply, 10 yr old Granddaughter gets 18 hr days on our yearly trip, 9 yr old Grandson starts his Wed.

 

Hook up car to MH.

 

1. Start car as usual

2. Shift to all gear positions P,R,N,D,L,D,N

3. Do not put foot on the brake, push stop button

4. I wait till the 2 driver screens and the odometer go dark before

5. Opening the door, this will darken the center screen.

 

Nothing on but “Shift To Park” and “PRNDL”

I usually check the parking brake 2 or 3 time to make sure it’s off, or is that 3 or 4 :drop:.

 

Hope this works on your Energi, CCC_Max also tows a Energi but hasn't been active.

Edited by wab
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Sorry for the late reply, 10 yr old Granddaughter gets 18 hr days on our yearly trip, 9 yr old Grandson starts his Wed.

 

Hook up car to MH.

 

1. Start car as usual

2. Shift to all gear positions P,R,N,D,L,D,N

3. Do not put foot on the brake, push stop button

4. I wait till the 2 driver screens and the odometer go dark before

5. Opening the door, this will darken the center screen.

 

Nothing on but “Shift To Park” and “PRNDL”

I usually check the parking brake 2 or 3 time to make sure it’s off, or is that 3 or 4 :drop:.

 

Hope this works on your Energi, CCC_Max also tows a Energi but hasn't been active.

 

 

Shouldn't 1 be "Set parking brake"?

 

I assume you take key fob with you when you exit car.

 

Looks good to me.  I"ll try it next time.  My odometer problem may have been due to not waiting until all is dark except for "Shift To Park" and "PRNDL"

 

 

 

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I keep the fob with me.

I do not lock the car, to many horror stories on this thread about dead batteries, haven't had one (at least while towing)!

 

I let the parking brake off once and didn't realize we were on a slope, tugged on the MH a little I thought.

When I got in dw :wub2: said WHAT WAS THAT?

I told her I was checking to see if the cmax could push the mh if we broke down or ran out of gas.

She said it felt like it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

We are towing our cmax for the first time.  We have a 2006 Itasca Meridian 36 footer and our 2013 C-Max.

 

We had Camping World install our setup, a Roadmaster Sterling towbar and a BrakeBuddy Stealth system.  Followed everyone's advice and made sure we had a charge line installed.

 

We were at the bottom of a freeway exit and had to turn left onto a new highway.  When we started the left turn I saw (in the rear camera) the car starting to shake and jump kind of like a fish trying to get off the hook.  The shaking became so violent it was shaking the motorhome, too.  We stopped, of course, and checked the hook up.  Everything seemed fine.  We continued on our way with no further problems.

 

Anyone ever hear of anything like this?  I suspect it may have been caused by a combination of the decline of the off ramp and the slight incline of the road we were turning onto, but that's only a guess.

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I have a 2013 CMax and have faced the battery problem and I'm installing a toad charger from LSL.  I gather that you hook it to the same ports you would hook jumper cables, so, that is what I am doing.

 

I have the keyless start system and I found when i tow it I turn it on to put in neutral and then I turn it off and tow it.  I found that if I leave it on, the odometer does register the mileage.

Bill

Zephyrhills, Fl

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

We tried a test tow with our 2013 CMax Energi, using a RoadMaster tow bar and RoadMaster EvenBrake. The brakes kept locking up! 2006 vintage EvenBrake was set at lowest force and lowest sensitivity.

 

I had read this forum and might have missed the part about the electric vacuum pump. I expected the battery to drain quickly. During the 10 mile test tow, the EvenBrake monitor showed the voltage dropping and it shut down below 11.7. (Perhaps the extension cord from the back 12 volt outlet slipped loose.)

 

I found fuse #9 and plan another test drive with #9 removed in hope that the brake lock ups will not happen.

 

I will install a Brake Buddy battery maintainer. The 7 way connector on our 2010 Fleetwood Pulse Dodge Sprinter chassis does not have a live 12 volt line. I have DRLs on, so all marker lights are powered, including the "toad". I hope I can tie the battery maintainer to the tail light line and not blow the Motorhome light fuse.

 

I'm hard of hearing and asked "DW" to listen when I pressed the brakes several times. With the start button not pushed, no pump sound. In accessory mode, there was pump sound.

 

I had downloaded a manual to my iPad. It had different RV procedures from the printed manual. Ford's website had three options. What appeared to be the newest was actually obsolete. Now, I have the latest version.

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Greeting and Welcome Ronp

Did you see this thread by holidaynh?
http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2348-roadmaster-even-brake/
 
Brakes locking up is NOT GOOD.
When setting ours up I found a couple references that the "Even Brake" isn't compatible with hybrids.
Have you checked with Roadmaster or your MH forum?
http://www.hitchsource.com/roadmaster-even-brake-towed-vehicle-portable-braking-system-free-shipping-p-28853.html
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-tow-bar-braking.aspx

 

Our 12V extension cable came unhooked once, the battery ran down. Now I make sure it can't!

 

I ran wire from the 7way and installed new sockets/bulbs in the tail lights, pretty easy DIY.

 

wab

Edited by wab
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Thanks for the response.

 

I might have read the first link. The third link is very useful, especially the part:

"Drawbacks:

Most work with "dead pedal" only

Will not work with hybrids or other vehicles that have continuous power-assist brakes

Requires that you deplete the dinghy's vacuum before towing, every time

To deplete vacuum, pump brake pedal repeatedly so that resistance builds up

Actuator may need repositioning - box can "crawl" up seat, affecting leverage on brake pedal

Roadmaster's Stop Light Switch Kits can be used to ensure proper positioning."

 

I had never heard of "continuous power-assist brakes". I had installed RoadMaster's stop light switch from eTrailer.

 

A few years ago, I got a surprise at the first stop sign (brakes locked), when I forgot to deplete the vacuum on our '04 VW Jetta TDI Wagon.

 

I located fuse 9 and will remove it when we leave Saturday for 500 miles back to Florida. I hope nobody will blame me if the nasty weather in the Carolinas follows us south.

 

I expect to get OBD warnings when I replace fuse 9. I should be able to reset with my ScanGauge (with the TPMS upgrade).

 

I'm about 3 1/2" lower than the tow bar. When we traded motorhomes, the Jetta did funny things when braking. I had to buy an 8" drop adapter. I'll cheat a half inch.

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I removed Fuse #9. The supplied fuse puller didn't want to fit, finally I jiggled enough to get it out.

 

I drove around our driveway and immediately got a brake warning "Check Brake System". My ScanGauge reported two stored codes and wouldn't tell me the codes. The brakes seemed to work fine, maybe not in a panic situation. Put it back in the garage.

 

I'll hook it to the motorhome at the break of day tomorrow.

 

I measured the levels of the tow bracket and tow bar. Now I'm within 2", maybe because I didn't pump the rear airbags to my not scientificly 45 psi.

 

I'll post a report after we get to Florida.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Our 493 mile trip to Florida with CMax as "toad" was OK.

 

I had pulled fuse #9 to kill the vacuum pump and left the CMax off and in neutral. every time I opened the door it told me to "shift to Park". I hoped the EvenBrake would not lock the brakes. The first few stops, there was grabbing, not as bad as before pulling fuse 9. DW drove the first 150 miles. I was driving when got off at the SR200 exit in FL - I must have hit the brake a little too hard and the CMax brakes locked up. We dieseled up our Pulse and disconnected power from the EvenBrake. The CMax is much heavier (1000 lbs) than our Jetta wagon, more effort to get it rolling. At least we didn't have to make panic stops

 

The last 150 miles to The Villages was uneventful. As soon as we pulled over and shut down the Pulse, I immediately got a text from Ford, "04:53 PM: R&L C-Max's 12 volt battery is low. Please plug the vehicle in." I had tried to use the taillight wire to use the BrakeBuddy battery maintainer. As soon as the taillights went off, within a minute I got the text. I had not locked the doors. Finally, the start button worked.

 

My ScanGauge showed two codes. My AllDataDIY.com couldn't find the codes. I searched to net and finally found the codes:

 

P1A1B Brake system control module - forced engine powered drive mode -

 

P258B Ford Vacuum Pump Control Range/Performance

 

A couple days later, we drove the scenic route to Frostproof avoiding dozens of traffic lights, without installing the EvenBrake. Any town with more than two traffic lights is to crowded for me! Total trip 600.3 miles. The CMax odometer did not clock miles.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Flat Towing my CMAX - Fact or fiction

 

Prior to our CMAX Energi purchase in Oct 2014, I searched the web and spoke to other CMAX owners about flat-towing behind RVs. I learned much about the pre-towing procedure and dead batteries.  Perhaps the best conclusion I could come to was there was no consistently in the preparation procedure. Was this due to model year differences, and/or Hybrid vs Energi difference?  I still don’t know.

 

In my best Don Quixote  charge, I wanted to know the “impossible answers” by climbing large mountains of internet forum postings and talking to our dealer service department, and to boldly scale the Ford Customer Service phone-tree walls.

 

A funny thing happened on the way.  My donkey (ass) died. There is much information, much of it very similar, but…

 

As an example, elsewhere I have read of the need to run the engine for 5 minutes, shift into R, L, D & N.  Five minutes. OK?

 

Here are the instructions in my manual that came with the car:

 

“Recreational Towing

Note: Put your climate control system in recirculated air mode to prevent exhaust fumes from entering the vehicle. See Climate Control (page 105).

 

Follow these guidelines if you have a need for recreational (RV) towing. An example of recreational towing would be towing your vehicle behind a motorhome. We designed these guidelines to prevent damage to your transmission.

 

You can tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground or with the front wheels off the ground by using a tow dolly. If you are using a tow dolly follow the instructions specified by the equipment provider.

 

If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground:

• Tow only in the forward direction.

• Release the parking brake.

• Place the transmission in position N.

• Place the ignition in the off position. See Starting and Stopping the Engine (page 124).

• Do not exceed 70 mph (113 km/h).

• Place the transmission in position P, start the vehicle and allow it to run for one minute at the beginning of each day (you may need to press the accelerator pedal in order to start the

vehicle). After allowing the vehicle to run, place the transmission back into position N and ignition in the accessory position.”

 

Ok, first off, starting the car is easy, keeping the engine running is a different matter.  Do I run the engine for one minute or five?. So, my first questions to Ford Customer Service when I called was how to keep the engine running and for how long?. At first, there seem to be confusion. “Like this is a really stupid question. Or do you know a car engine just runs on its own after you start it.”  And yes, I told them it was an Energi and even provided the VIN.

 

Elsewhere I had read to turn on your AC and/or rear defroster. Which the customer rep repeated to me.  She further told me to turn on all electrical loads so as to force the engine to run.  I don’t remember how long I was told to operate the engine, but I know it was for more than a few minutes as I could not keep it running for more than about a minute and a half prior to calling support.

 

I asked, “do I shift into all gears or just N?”  She answered by reading the page 183 instructions from the top again.

 

In my mind, the owners manual instructions are written poorly, as the first sentences are just supporting information before the all encompassing preparation step at the end.  “Hello! Why do I release the parking brake before placing the transmission in N?  Won’t the car roll away??”  

 

After a bit of verbal volleyball with the Ford Customer Service (electric car group), I requested a written reference.  I was told they can not originate an email...Say what??  After a brief, “that is stupid silence”, I learned that I could use the Ford, contact us by email link on the owner.ford.com web site to start a new conversation in which they would write back via email, thus providing a written set of instructions.

 

So, I sent Ford Support an email referencing the case number of my phone call, and I received a very prompt email with the following instructions (names and courtesies have been removed):

 

Our records indicate that you contacted the Ford Customer Relationship Center on 2/24/2015, and our Customer Care Representative advised you to prep the transmission for recreational towing.  The vehicle has to be "out" of EV-mode, and they should create a large electrical load, generally the rear defroster and climate control (a/c on & blower on "high") should work.  Set press brake pedal and start vehicle with foot on brake, shift vehicle into neutral, then press the stop button and this puts vehicle into accessory mode.  This applies to any vehicle with push button start that needs to be placed in Accessory Mode.  If you follow this procedure then vehicle won’t accrue miles on it nor will it go dead after towing.  The vehicle cannot go into accessory mode if it is not in neutral.

 

For the most part, these instructions are the same as the last step in the owners’ manual. I did find the statement that the vehicle won’t accrue miles on it nor will it go dead after towing” enlightening.  Hello Ford, are you talking to your customers and replacing batteries for a different reason?  I for one, did do not realize you can only enter accessory mode when in neutral. What if I want to listen to my radio when parked?

 

As I finish here, I want to add I that I asked Ford about the transmission ATF pump and the brake vacuum assist pump running while flat towing.  I was told neither operates.  Furthermore, I tested my brakes on a small hill while in accessory mode and found I could barely stop the car after the third attempt. Hence, confirmation the brake vacuum pump does not operate in accessory mode. Makes me wonder if my newly installed SMI Air Force One can stop the CMax when towing.

 

Regarding accessory mode.  I combed the internet, my CMAX owners’ manual, and Ford's CMAX FAQ video help. Nowhere did I locate instructions for putting a keyless start CMAX Energi in accessory mode. While I have learned it is as simple pushing the Start/Stop button without your foot on the brake.  It appears to be a closely held procedure at Ford, only available through their customer support.  Makes you wonder why?

re, mike

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The directions for an Energi are different:

  1. Vehicles with Push Button Start

    1. Start the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal, and then pressing the ENGINE START/STOP button until the vehicle starts.

    2. Press the brake pedal and shift the transmission into position N.

    3. Turn the vehicle off by pressing the ENGINE START/STOP button once. (Trip Summary appears in the left instrument cluster screen when the vehicle is off 

Note: You can remove the key fob from the vehicle while towing. 

 

Gary

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  • 4 weeks later...

First of all, let me say thanks to all the people who have posted on this forum. The info gained helped immensely in gathering all the equipment necessary to get our 2014 C Max SEL Hybrid dinghy ready. Our MH is a 2014 Itasca Ellipse. The work was completed today so my only towing experience so far with this set up is limited to the 30 miles back home, but it worked flawlessly.

My set up is as follows; SMI Air Force One braking system, Blue Ox base plate, Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar, Blue Ox bulb and socket wiring harness, Blue Ox coiled inter connect cable, and Toad Charge battery charging system. The installation was performed at RCD Sales in Delaware OH. They have a great tech there named Shane Oates who did a very professional looking job. Although he has installed the SMI system before, this was his first install on a hybrid so he spent some time on the horn with the techs at SMI and found out about some interesting addendums to the install instructions. Apparently, the vacuum connection to the brake booster is not needed on this car so he was told to just cap the line from the SMI control box to keep it from sucking up debris. Shane wanted to mount the LED indicator for the system inside the car on the front of the left windshield pillar so as to be visible from the camera on the MH. SMI sells a pressure switch kit, part number 99629 that connects the indicator to the air line for the pedal actuator. That way, the LED does not get wired into the car's brake light switch, which according to SMI was causing some problems with the myriad electronics in the C Max. It also means that the LED will only work when the car is being towed. I have that on order and will be taking it back to RCD so Shane can install it. Can't wait until the wife retires so we can start full timing :)

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Greetings and Welcome

 

Sounds like you've set it up right the first time.

 

We've had a couple of problems with our "self installed" bulb and socket.

I'm going to have to figure out a new route for the wire.

 

Enjoy your c max toad, we have.

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