DIY Oil Change

[ptjones]

Got my report back from BlackStone Labs .  :) The number are the same or improved from last time with 3k more miles. :yahoo:

 

Paul

Edited December 2, 2016 by ptjones

[fbov]

Can you please post the PDF? 

Thanks, Frank

[joshg678]

I was able to zoom in some on my phone. I can't make out most of it. Probably lost some quality from original.

13k seems like a long time for an oil change to me, but I'd can't wait to see the details of the report.

 

Was there any oil loss at all?

My dad did 10k intervals on his FEH and blew his motor because he never checked his oil.

[plus 3 golfer]

I was able to zoom in some on my phone. I can't make out most of it. Probably lost some quality from original.

13k seems like a long time for an oil change to me, but I'd can't wait to see the details of the report.

 

Was there any oil loss at all?

My dad did 10k intervals on his FEH and blew his motor because he never checked his oil.

Click on full version of the site. Then click on image in the post. Options, View all sizes, Large.  You'll have no problem reading.

[joshg678]

That worked perfectly, thanks for the tip.

Those are nice looking values. I thought black stone gave you an oil life % on the results too?

[ptjones]

I was able to zoom in some on my phone. I can't make out most of it. Probably lost some quality from original.

13k seems like a long time for an oil change to me, but I'd can't wait to see the details of the report.

 

Was there any oil loss at all?

My dad did 10k intervals on his FEH and blew his motor because he never checked his oil.

Very little, Mobil 1 claims up to 15K miles and judging from the report I could more miles. I went close to 30K Odometer miles and one year. :)

That worked perfectly, thanks for the tip.

Those are nice looking values. I thought black stone gave you an oil life % on the results too?

May have to pay extra for that. :)

 

Paul

[tomat12447]

Hi. Am I missing something here. Why do it yourself. Go to Ford site and find this coupon:

THE WORKS™ VEHICLE CHECKUP, $39.95 or less.

• Synthetic Blend Oil Change

• Tire Rotation and Pressure Check

• Brake Inspection

• Multi-Point Inspection

• Fluid Top-Off

• Battery Test

• Filter Check

• Belts and Hoses Check

 

Up to five quarts of Motorcraft® oil and oil filter. Taxes, diesel vehicles and disposal fees extra. Hybrid battery test excluded. See participating dealership for exclusions and details. So tire rotation and all the other extras for less than $39. When I had the last oil change they saw seepage but didn't know from where so they added the dye. No charge and I have 48K on the car. Took it back a couple weeks later and they checked the dye and found it was rear seal. Gave me a loaner. No charge. Replaced the rear main seal. No charge and gave me a free car wash. Changing my own makes no sense for me. :)

 

When Mobil 1 is on sale it's $5 per qt so for 4.5qts that's $22.50 plus $5 for filter - so for less than $30 I do a full synthetic change - plus I don't have to get the car back with greasy carpeting, seats, etc.  I'm retired so it also gives me something to do with all the mechanics tools I've accumulated over the last 60 years.

[joshg678]

I've changed the oil in my car since I've started driving (brothers a mechanic) but my Cmax has the VIP package where all the oil changes are free along with tire rotations and state inspection. And by free I mean you pay for it when you buy the car. But as long as I own it I'll be getting it.

[AZgman]

Its a shame that the oil filter is not located at the top of the engine like my Jetta. I use a "top-sider" oil extractor and never have to take off the engine pan or touch the oil pan bolt. easy-peasy

[Mad C max]

Hi. Am I missing something here. Why do it yourself. Go to Ford site and find this coupon:

THE WORKS™ VEHICLE CHECKUP, $39.95 or less.

• Synthetic Blend Oil Change

• Tire Rotation and Pressure Check

• Brake Inspection

• Multi-Point Inspection

• Fluid Top-Off

• Battery Test

• Filter Check

• Belts and Hoses Check

 

Up to five quarts of Motorcraft® oil and oil filter. Taxes, diesel vehicles and disposal fees extra. Hybrid battery test excluded. See participating dealership for exclusions and details. So tire rotation and all the other extras for less than $39. When I had the last oil change they saw seepage but didn't know from where so they added the dye. No charge and I have 48K on the car. Took it back a couple weeks later and they checked the dye and found it was rear seal. Gave me a loaner. No charge. Replaced the rear main seal. No charge and gave me a free car wash. Changing my own makes no sense for me. :)

I agree.$39.99 is ia hard to beat. I do it myself though, at my own convenience. It's just such a pain having to go to the dealer. Waiting half an hour to get checked in, then having to take a cab home, because they wont be finished for several hours. Then, I have to find a ride back to pick it up. Too painful.

[SnowStorm]

I do mine too -  it takes no more time and I know exactly what was done.  But I hate the yucky mess and wriggling around upside down under the car.  Electric cars aren't getting here any too soon!

 

BTW, anybody considered the "new" Mobil 1 20k mile / 1 year oil?  At twice the price it doesn't seem to make sense.  The new (?) filter that goes with it (M1-102A) is the same price so I got it since the M1-102 wasn't available at WalMart anyway.

[BIG ROCCO]

For what it's worth, it's usually so hot here in Phoenix that as long as it's Summer (~May to October), I now drain the oil from a "cold" engine - cold typically being the ~ 100F+ degrees it is in my garage.  The oil drains quite well at that temp.  Maybe, just maybe, a little more oil remains in the pan than if I warmed up the engine, but more oil has also drained back into the pan from the top end, so I feel it is a wash, at worst, and the comfort of not dealing with a hot engine and hot oil is a big plus.

[ptjones]

I think you will be fine. :)  You don't have anything to worry about, going up to 13k+ ICE mi. on an oil change and getting great report, the ICE will out last the car. :) 

 

Paul 

[fbov]

The idea behind draining a hot engine is left over from the old days of straight 40W, additive-free oil. Modern additives keep dirt suspended and low viscosity oils flow well at room temperature. You're far warmer. 

 

I've taken to driving the engine a while before changes, because I've seen a high level of fuel in the oil, with associated reduced flash points. My oil changes show a pattern that seems to correlate a switch from 5W20 Ford OEM blend, to 0W20 full synthetic oils, with the fuel percentage found. Data says 5W20 is better than 0W20, but is a high EV, high mileage operating mode to blame?  That's why I take it or a long drive now. 

 

Have fun,

Frank

[obob]

The idea behind draining a hot engine is left over from the old days of straight 40W, additive-free oil. Modern additives keep dirt suspended and low viscosity oils flow well at room temperature. You're far warmer. 

 

I've taken to driving the engine a while before changes, because I've seen a high level of fuel in the oil, with associated reduced flash points. My oil changes show a pattern that seems to correlate a switch from 5W20 Ford OEM blend, to 0W20 full synthetic oils, with the fuel percentage found. Data says 5W20 is better than 0W20, but is a high EV, high mileage operating mode to blame?  That's why I take it or a long drive now. 

 

Have fun,

Frank

 

So you warm the engine before draining to make sure the maximum high fuel content used oil is drained ?

 

I would think that the amount of fuel in the used oil is also related to how much the motor was used in cold temps and/or with short trips due to a fuel rich mixture needed until the motor is warmed up.

[fbov]

I'm trying to warm the oil, not the engine. I want the oil at operating temp for an extended period. I'll let the car cool down before changing the oil, though. 

 

Run mode is one major possibility, as is month oil is changed. However, those two factors are aliased in my data. The only winter oil change was also the only time I drove mostly highway. However, the three summer changes show the full range of variation in fuel percentage and flash point, from 0.5%/400F to 3.0%/325F. 

 

The data points to oil... 5W20 gave the 0.5% point while 0W20 averages 2.7% fuel in the oil. However, I'm about to change my third fill of 0W20 oil, right after a 300 mile trip. so we'll see... If fuel content is still high, the lighter weight oil is implicated independent of run mode. I'll be putting in a 5W20, likely Mobil 1 EP.

 

But I've retired, so miles are down and trips are shorter still, and that's a different driving mode altogether! Results from here will be slow to come, and not as consistent. Cie la vie!

 

HAve fun,

Frank 

[obob]

I'm trying to warm the oil, not the engine. I want the oil at operating temp for an extended period. I'll let the car cool down before changing the oil, though. 

 

Run mode is one major possibility, as is month oil is changed. However, those two factors are aliased in my data. The only winter oil change was also the only time I drove mostly highway. However, the three summer changes show the full range of variation in fuel percentage and flash point, from 0.5%/400F to 3.0%/325F. 

 

The data points to oil... 5W20 gave the 0.5% point while 0W20 averages 2.7% fuel in the oil. However, I'm about to change my third fill of 0W20 oil, right after a 300 mile trip. so we'll see... If fuel content is still high, the lighter weight oil is implicated independent of run mode. I'll be putting in a 5W20, likely Mobil 1 EP.

 

But I've retired, so miles are down and trips are shorter still, and that's a different driving mode altogether! Results from here will be slow to come, and not as consistent. Cie la vie!

 

HAve fun,

Frank 

 

 

OK, so you warm the oil up because you want the dirt to be suspend in the oil. That sounds like a good idea.  If that is incorrect please clarify.

 

By the way, I just bought 5w20 oil, Mobil 1, not EP.

[fbov]

Rather than explain again, I'll wait until I get data from this change. 

 

I'll look at the flash-point and fuel content. You'll want to look at the insoluble percentage, a few tenths of a percent historically, but 0 last time. 

 

Have fun,

Frank

[ptjones]

Had my oil changed with FORD's Standard oil this time and I will watch for a difference, nothing so far. :)  I used Mobil 1 0-30 last time and here is the BlackStone Report:

  Looks like I can go to 16-17k ICE mi./ 35k Odometer mi.

 

Paul