SStoner Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Interesting, that procedure was revised 1/24/2013. The online version was revised 8/7/2013 and shows doing it all from below. Maybe they decided it was cheaper not to have to remove the air filter and cowl panel and use a pump instead.The manual has you remove the air filter housing and intake duct work to gain access to the gravity fill plug.It's easier to skip this step and use a fluid pump to fill the trans from the leveling plug. It would be the sameas filling a standard transmission or rear differential. This trans has 3 plugs. Drain - Gravity Fill and Fluid Leveling Plug. ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPL Tech Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Does the transaxle have a filter? Many auto trans have filters. I would think anything large enough to block the intercooler would snag the filter. I am also curious what could possibly be large enough to clog the intercooler. Something must have broken off. Sounds like it might be best to have the dealer pull the entire transaxle, open it and figure out what happened. Transaxle is covered to 100k so you’re lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Does the transaxle have a filter? Many auto trans have filters. I would think anything large enough to block the intercooler would snag the filter. I am also curious what could possibly be large enough to clog the intercooler. Something must have broken off. Sounds like it might be best to have the dealer pull the entire transaxle, open it and figure out what happened. Transaxle is covered to 100k so you’re lucky.I have an appointment for next Monday, hopefully I will find out then. :) Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-N Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I have an appointment for next Monday, hopefully I will find out then. :) Paul FYI, I just had the transmission replaced under warranty (33k miles). Took 6 weeks; 4 just to get a new (not rebuilt) transmission. See TSB forum for more info. ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SStoner Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) FYI, I just had the transmission replaced under warranty (33k miles). Took 6 weeks; 4 just to get a new (not rebuilt) transmission. See TSB forum for more info.What type of noise did it make. Did it make the noise all the time or only during acceleration and/or regeneration ? Thanks! Edited March 2, 2015 by SStoner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) FYI, I just had the transmission replaced under warranty (33k miles). Took 6 weeks; 4 just to get a new (not rebuilt) transmission. See TSB forum for more info.Thanks for the info. My Trans seems to be working fine, but it is heating up little bit faster each time I use it. Today I went into town(5mi) then Shopping Center(5mi) and back to shop(5mi) and TFT was 199*F when I got back. I was going between 35-55mph, Bill-N it would be interesting if we knew if your Trans was getting hot before you had your problems. ;) Paul Edited March 2, 2015 by ptjones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian_L Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 The manual has you remove the air filter housing and intake duct work to gain access to the gravity fill plug.It's easier to skip this step and use a fluid pump to fill the trans from the leveling plug. It would be the sameas filling a standard transmission or rear differential. This trans has 3 plugs. Drain - Gravity Fill and Fluid Leveling Plug. Wow SStoner, impressive for a newbie. We might have to call you our new Dr Diesel. It's almost like he's still with us :victory: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SStoner Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Wow SStoner, impressive for a newbie. We might have to call you our new Dr Diesel. It's almost like he's still with us :victory:Thank You! I consider that a compliment :victory: Bugblndr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPL Tech Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) FYI, I just had the transmission replaced under warranty (33k miles). Took 6 weeks; 4 just to get a new (not rebuilt) transmission. See TSB forum for more info.Wow, that's completely unacceptable. I would accept no more than 7 days shipping, 3 days install. It should not take any longer than that. I would have gone to a different dealer. Edited March 3, 2015 by SPL Tech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugblndr Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Wow, that's completely unacceptable. I would accept no more than 7 days shipping, 3 days install. It should not take any longer than that. I would have gone to a different dealer. If the part isn't available, it isn't available. All you would've done is delayed things by an extra day or two by changing dealers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG ROCCO Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 There is a drain plug and a filler plug on top for changing Trans Fluid. But changing Fluid isn't a trivial thing to do if you have to take the air cleaner off coming from experience with cut up hands replacing the Air Filter. I wonder if it is possible to do with out removing air cleaner? Paul I took the air filter housing out recently to check the filter - kind of a PITA for an air filter, but not THAT bad - 2 bolts and 2 hose clamps as I remember to remove the assembly (I just cut the tie wrap for the small pipe - doesn't seem really necessary, but I can replace it if needed), then 4 more bolts to get to the actual filter. BTW, the air filter was pristine after ~22K miles...absolutely indistinguishable from a new, never installed part. Even allowing for the fact that the engine only runs ~55% of the miles traveled, it still seems like it should should some dirt by now. That said, the air filter on my Buick Lacrosse mild hybrid (that engine runs anytime the car is in motion) also appeared almost like new after 30K miles. We live in the AZ desert, so I would have thought the dust would show up on the filters, but so far, both cars would seem to have almost "lifetime" air filter elements from the factory. Oh, also, the filter for the C-Max is very small - like a cabin filter, and it has a large cut out in it to boot: http://www.rockauto.com/info/39/WA10036__ra_p.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAZ Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Your experience mirrors mine, BIG ROCCO; also at about the same mileage, though I'm in Michigan. What WAS dirty was the passenger compartment air filter. BIG ROCCO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) This Morning I checked temps again on my ScanGauge II and IT/69*F, WT/66*F and TFT/84*F. Today WT vs TFT is off by 18*F, yesterday it was off by 14*F and tomorrow I will check again before drop it off at FORD and see what the difference is with a hot ICE and FORD Scanner. I need more info at higher temps to see if this a matter of subtracting 16*F or removing 15% of displayed value. Paul Edited March 8, 2015 by ptjones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPL Tech Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) For what it is worth, I checked my SE with FORscan today and got a max TFT of about 125F with 7 miles of city driving that included a 1000' elevation gain up a very steep hill (and subsaquent coast back down). The outside temp was 78F. Edited March 10, 2015 by SPL Tech ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Not much progress with FORD, They don't want to do anything if their aren't any codes. Did figure out that there can be a problem if you have scanners connected to both OBDII ports, can screw up the output. FORD says that my numbers are wrong, but they had both scanners plugged in at the same time. They were only getting 140's on short FWY drive which is about right for short drive. I've got about a 35mi. drive to do around lunchtime and hope to get the car and come back with it hot to have them check it. We will see. ThanksPaul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 I picked up MADMAX from FORD today and they say my ScanGaugeII numbers are High. After driving on the the FWY for awhile TFT got up to 180's as compared to 120's with FORD Scanner. To add to the confusion I keep putting my fingers on the Trans Cooler Lines and they are cool to the touch with OT of 70*F. It would be helpful if other members would check their Trans Coolant Lines after 30+ minute trips to see if their lines are cool or hot. Working on getting a new scanner to see if that makes a difference. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdbob Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Using the XGauge codes: TXD: 07E6221E1CRXF: 0462051E061CRXD: 3010 MTH: 000900320020NAM: TFT I did a comparison between ScanGauge and FORScan Lite. Before driving: SG = 48FS = 6C (43F) After driving: SG = 84FS = 18C (64F) So the math for the XGauge seems to be wrong in some way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdbob Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 I see the problem. The TorquePro/OBD Fusion equation for TFT is: (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 I believe the proper MTH on the ScanGauge should be 000900500020 ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 I see the problem. The TorquePro/OBD Fusion equation for TFT is: (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 I believe the proper MTH on the ScanGauge should be 000900500020I will try that out and let you know. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 I see the problem. The TorquePro/OBD Fusion equation for TFT is: (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 I believe the proper MTH on the ScanGauge should be 000900500020I tried the number out and I believe that the TFT is to low now. This morning I took Pics of ScanGaugeII . TFT WT IT1. Temps before plugging in Heaters 107 92 872. 5min later changed MATH # 80 96 873. 1 hour later with heaters on 101 125 964. drove 2.4mi to work 100 154 98 OT 57*Fchecked Trans with IR Thermometer 105*FI will keep taking Pics and IR Therometer measurements and also checking Trans Cooler lines. I got 70 on one and 73 on the other. :)Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 I see the problem. The TorquePro/OBD Fusion equation for TFT is: (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 I believe the proper MTH on the ScanGauge should be 000900500020Here's my take on the conversion (although I may be wrong). :) Shouldn't the 5th digit of the RXF be "8" to correspond to a 10 divisor. the 5th digit of zero (current RXF) means no divisor. Should't the 2nd 4 digits in the MTH be 0008 to correspond to the 8 in the divisor of the formula? Shouldn't the last 4 digits of the MTH field be 0140 to correspond to the +320 in the formula. So, MTH should be 000900080140 Paul, you might want to try the above ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Looks to me like the "equation" should be: (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/5)+320)/10since it appears that the internal value is degrees C X 10. The A*256+B gets the internal number, then *(9/5)+320 to get degrees F X 10, then divide by 10 for final degrees F. However, I really have no experience with these equations or Scangauge's secret codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdbob Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) As I understand it the flag in RXF for 10 divisor is if you want to have it display one digit to the right of the decimal point. Based on (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 the counts from the car are in 0.16°C increments instead of 0.1°C. Looking at 000900500020 the 0009 is the multiplier, 0050 is the divider in hexadecimal which is 80 decimal, and 20 is added as an offset and is 32 decimal. So it's ((counts) * 9) / 80 + 32 which is the same as the ((9/8)+320)/10 in the above equation if you remember your high school algebra. I worked through the math using the results from the ScanGauge and FORScan and it appears using 000900500020 agrees with FORScan. Edited March 11, 2015 by jdbob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) As I understand it the flag in RXF for 10 divisor is if you want to have it display one digit to the right of the decimal point. Based on (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 the counts from the car are in 0.16°C increments instead of 0.1°C. Looking at 000900500020 the 0009 is the multiplier, 0050 is the divider in hexadecimal which is 80 decimal, and 20 is added as an offset and is 32 decimal. So it's ((counts) * 9) / 80 + 32 which is the same as the ((9/8)+320)/10 in the above equation if you remember your high school algebra. I worked through the math using the results from the ScanGauge and FORScan and it appears using 000900500020 agrees with FORScan.After a few trips "jdbob" MATH seems to be working. Here are the XGauge Codes: Here are the "EDITED right numbers for the XGauge for Trans Fluid Temp": TXD: 07E6221E1CRXF: 0462051E061CRXD: 3010MTH: 000900500020NAM: TFT Thanks jdbob I have a few tests now and the results look to be within 10*F or better. I went 14miles on Fwy and TFT was 144*F, but cooler lines were only 82 and 85*F. I still don't think that is right, input line should be close to TFT. I will be going about 700mi. this weekend so I will have a chance to check it out. Paul Edited March 11, 2015 by ptjones jdbob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdbob Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Based on (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 the counts from the car are in 0.16°C increments instead of 0.1°C. Ooops, it's 0.0625°C increments. For the 95% of the world that uses Celsius, MTH should be 000100100000 which is (counts / 16) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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