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High Transmission Temperature


ptjones
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Interesting, that procedure was revised 1/24/2013.

 

The online version was revised 8/7/2013 and shows doing it all from below.

 

Maybe they decided it was cheaper not to have to remove the air filter and cowl panel and use a pump instead.

The manual has you remove the air filter housing and intake duct work to gain access to the gravity fill plug.

It's easier to skip this step and use a fluid pump to fill the trans from the leveling plug. It would be the same

as filling a standard transmission or rear differential. This trans has 3 plugs. Drain - Gravity Fill and Fluid Leveling Plug.

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Does the transaxle have a filter? Many auto trans have filters. I would think anything large enough to block the intercooler would snag the filter. I am also curious what could possibly be large enough to clog the intercooler. Something must have broken off. Sounds like it might be best to have the dealer pull the entire transaxle, open it and figure out what happened. Transaxle is covered to 100k so you’re lucky.

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Does the transaxle have a filter? Many auto trans have filters. I would think anything large enough to block the intercooler would snag the filter. I am also curious what could possibly be large enough to clog the intercooler. Something must have broken off. Sounds like it might be best to have the dealer pull the entire transaxle, open it and figure out what happened. Transaxle is covered to 100k so you’re lucky.

I have an appointment for next Monday, hopefully I will find out then. :)

 

Paul

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FYI, I just had the transmission replaced under warranty (33k miles).  Took 6 weeks; 4 just to get a new (not rebuilt) transmission.  See TSB forum for more info.

What type of noise did it make. Did it make the noise all the time or only during acceleration and/or regeneration ? Thanks!

Edited by SStoner
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FYI, I just had the transmission replaced under warranty (33k miles).  Took 6 weeks; 4 just to get a new (not rebuilt) transmission.  See TSB forum for more info.

Thanks for the info. My Trans seems to be working fine, but it is heating up little bit faster each time I use it. Today I went into town(5mi) then Shopping Center(5mi) and back to shop(5mi) and TFT was 199*F when I got back.  I was going between 35-55mph, Bill-N it would be interesting if we knew if your Trans was getting hot  before you had your problems. ;)

 

Paul

Edited by ptjones
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The manual has you remove the air filter housing and intake duct work to gain access to the gravity fill plug.

It's easier to skip this step and use a fluid pump to fill the trans from the leveling plug. It would be the same

as filling a standard transmission or rear differential. This trans has 3 plugs. Drain - Gravity Fill and Fluid Leveling Plug.

 

Wow SStoner, impressive for a newbie.  We might have to call you our new Dr Diesel.  It's almost like he's still with us :victory:

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FYI, I just had the transmission replaced under warranty (33k miles).  Took 6 weeks; 4 just to get a new (not rebuilt) transmission.  See TSB forum for more info.

Wow, that's completely unacceptable. I would accept no more than 7 days shipping, 3 days install. It should not take any longer than that. I would have gone to a different dealer.

Edited by SPL Tech
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Wow, that's completely unacceptable. I would accept no more than 7 days shipping, 3 days install. It should not take any longer than that. I would have gone to a different dealer.

 

If the part isn't available, it isn't available.  All you would've done is delayed things by an extra day or two by changing dealers.

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  There is a drain plug and a filler plug on top for changing Trans Fluid.   But changing Fluid isn't a trivial thing to do if you have to take the air cleaner off coming from experience with cut up hands replacing the Air Filter.  I wonder if it is possible to do with out removing air cleaner? wink.gif

 

Paul

 

I took the air filter housing out recently to check the filter - kind of a PITA for an air filter, but not THAT bad - 2 bolts and 2 hose clamps as I remember to remove the assembly (I just cut the tie wrap for the small pipe - doesn't seem really necessary, but I can replace it if needed), then 4 more bolts to get to the actual filter.  BTW, the air filter was pristine after ~22K miles...absolutely indistinguishable from a new, never installed part.  Even allowing for the fact that the engine only runs ~55% of the miles traveled, it still seems like it should should some dirt by now.  That said, the air filter on my Buick Lacrosse mild hybrid (that engine runs anytime the car is in motion) also appeared almost like new after 30K miles.  We live in the AZ desert, so I would have thought the dust would show up on the filters, but so far, both cars would seem to have almost "lifetime" air filter elements from the factory.  Oh, also, the filter for the C-Max is very small - like a cabin filter, and it has a large cut out in it to boot:

 

http://www.rockauto.com/info/39/WA10036__ra_p.jpg

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This Morning I checked temps again on my ScanGauge II and IT/69*F, WT/66*F and TFT/84*F.  Today WT vs TFT is off by 18*F, yesterday it was off by 14*F and tomorrow I will check again before drop it off at FORD and see what the difference is with a hot ICE and FORD Scanner.  I need more info at higher temps to see if this a matter of subtracting 16*F or removing 15% of displayed value. smile.png

 

Paul

Edited by ptjones
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Not much progress with FORD, They don't want to do anything if their aren't any codes.  Did figure out that there can be a problem if you have scanners connected to both OBDII ports, can screw up the  output.  FORD says that my numbers are wrong, but they had both scanners plugged in at the same time.  They were only getting 140's on short FWY drive which is about right for short drive.  I've got about a 35mi. drive to do around lunchtime and hope to get the car and come back with it hot to have them check it. We will see. 

 

Thanks

Paul

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I picked up MADMAX from FORD today and they say my ScanGaugeII numbers are High. After driving on the the FWY for awhile TFT got up to 180's as compared to 120's with FORD Scanner.  To add to the confusion I keep putting my fingers on the Trans Cooler Lines and they are cool to the touch with OT of 70*F.  It would be helpful if other members would check their Trans Coolant Lines after 30+ minute trips to see if their lines are cool or hot. Working on getting a new scanner to see if that makes a difference.smile.png

 

Paul

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Using the XGauge codes:

 

TXD: 07E6221E1C

RXF: 0462051E061C

RXD: 3010 MTH: 000900320020

NAM: TFT

 

I did a comparison between ScanGauge and FORScan Lite.

 

Before driving:

 

SG = 48

FS = 6C (43F)

 

After driving:

 

SG = 84

FS = 18C (64F)

 

So the math for the XGauge seems to be wrong in some way.

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I see the problem. The TorquePro/OBD Fusion equation for TFT is:

 

 (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10

 

I believe the proper MTH on the ScanGauge should be 000900500020

I tried the number out and I believe that the TFT is to low now. This morning I took Pics of ScanGaugeII .

                                                         TFT                   WT                  IT

1. Temps before plugging in Heaters     107                    92                   87

2. 5min later changed MATH #              80                     96                   87

3. 1 hour later with heaters on              101                   125                  96

4. drove 2.4mi to work                         100                   154                  98   OT 57*F

checked Trans with IR Thermometer     105*F

I will keep taking Pics and IR Therometer measurements  and also checking Trans Cooler lines.  I got 70 on one and 73 on the other.

:)

Paul

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I see the problem. The TorquePro/OBD Fusion equation for TFT is:

 

 (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10

 

I believe the proper MTH on the ScanGauge should be 000900500020

Here's my take on the conversion (although I may be wrong). :)  Shouldn't the 5th digit of the RXF be "8" to correspond to a 10 divisor. the 5th digit of zero (current RXF) means no divisor.

 

Should't the 2nd 4 digits in the MTH be 0008 to correspond to the 8 in the divisor of the formula? Shouldn't the last 4 digits of the MTH field be 0140 to correspond to the +320 in the formula.  

 

So, MTH should be 000900080140 

 

Paul, you might want to try the above

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Looks to me like the "equation" should be:

     (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/5)+320)/10

since it appears that the internal value is degrees C X 10.  The A*256+B gets the internal number, then *(9/5)+320 to get degrees F X 10, then divide by 10 for final degrees F.  However, I really have no experience with these equations or Scangauge's secret codes.

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As I understand it the flag in RXF for 10 divisor is if you want to have it display one digit to the right of the decimal point.

 

Based on (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 the counts from the car are in 0.16°C increments instead of 0.1°C.

 

Looking at 000900500020 the 0009 is the multiplier, 0050 is the divider in hexadecimal which is 80 decimal, and 20 is added as an offset and is 32 decimal. So it's ((counts) * 9) / 80 + 32 which is the same as the ((9/8)+320)/10 in the above equation if you remember your high school algebra.

 

I worked through the math using the results from the ScanGauge and FORScan and it appears using 000900500020 agrees with FORScan.

Edited by jdbob
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As I understand it the flag in RXF for 10 divisor is if you want to have it display one digit to the right of the decimal point.

 

Based on (((signed(A)*256)+B)*(9/8)+320)/10 the counts from the car are in 0.16°C increments instead of 0.1°C.

 

Looking at 000900500020 the 0009 is the multiplier, 0050 is the divider in hexadecimal which is 80 decimal, and 20 is added as an offset and is 32 decimal. So it's ((counts) * 9) / 80 + 32 which is the same as the ((9/8)+320)/10 in the above equation if you remember your high school algebra.

 

I worked through the math using the results from the ScanGauge and FORScan and it appears using 000900500020 agrees with FORScan.

After a few trips "jdbob" MATH seems to be working. Here are the XGauge Codes:

 

Here are the "EDITED right numbers for the XGauge for Trans Fluid Temp":

 

TXD: 07E6221E1C

RXF: 0462051E061C

RXD: 3010

MTH: 000900500020

NAM: TFT

 

Thanks jdbob

 

I have a few tests now and the results look to be within 10*F or better.  I went 14miles on Fwy and TFT was 144*F, but cooler lines were only 82 and 85*F.  I still don't think  that is right, input line should be close to TFT. I will be going about 700mi. this weekend so I will have a chance to check it out.

smile.png

 

Paul

Edited by ptjones
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