Upgrade speakers. Please help :)

[mitrals]

I have the base package and the stereo is lacking in both lows and highs! I am thinking of adding an external amp and replacing the door speakers. Dont want to add a sub. I don't want anything high end, just want some better sound. I have researched and haven't come across much on this topic so wanted to see if someone here has done anything. I know someone installed a sub under drivers seat and someone that installed a sub in the trunk. Does it interfere with the noise cancelling system?

[HotPotato]

Please see my thread http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1570-has-anyone-installed-an-amplifier-in-their-c-max/ before you start down this road. The factory stereo is pre-equalized for the speakers that are installed, so upgrading the speakers makes it sound worse, not better. To overcome this, you need to spend loads of dough on a sound processor, like the Audison Bit Ten, that removes the factory EQ and lets you twiddle away weeks of your life trying to come up with a new EQ curve you like (your laptop plugs in to the Bit Ten to allow this, and Audison's white noise CD in your car's CD player and a JL Audio real-time spectrum analyzer app on your phone let you make your decisions at least somewhat based on data). You'll also need an amplifer, since the signal has to come down to line level for the processor, and aftermarket speakers need more power anyway. Finally, to feel satisfied, you'll need a subwoofer--driven by another amplifier--because these days aftermarket speakers often have less bass response, not more, than factory speakers. (The speaker companies are assuming that you're also installing a sub.) After all that, it'll sound just...okay, because there are other limitations in the factory head unit, and you can't get resolution that's not there.

 

Another alternative is a new head unit, but that would be a pain in the arse and you'd lose Sync, Bluetooth etc. Another alternative is to plug your iPod directly into the Bit Ten, bypassing the Sync module entirely and eliminating the need to re-EQ, but then you'd need another Audison module to control volume and switch sources, so you'd lose your factory volume knob and terrestrial radio would sound weird. 

 

So here's a better idea. Keep your factory head unit and speakers. Get a good quality digital 25w x 4 amp by Kicker. Install it and call it good. The factory speakers are rated for enough wattage to handle it, and further improvements don't really pencil out on a pleasure per dollar basis.

 

Another option: trade your car for one with the factory Sony system installed. Not kidding. Kind of wish I had done that. You can still add a sub to it, but it has the additional power needed, and better speakers with EQ set for those speakers.

Edited January 21, 2016 by HotPotato

[BIG ROCCO]

I do not find the upgraded factory Sony system to be that much better than the base system.  It's just barely OK to me.  The C-Max is my wife's car - I drive a 2012 Lacrosse with the H-K system - that system is really nice and makes the Sony in the CM seem like a POC, and I also think it's too expensive for the marginally better sound it offers.

[mitrals]

Thank you Hot Potato! My wife has a 13 Escape with the Sony and I think it is marginally better than my base stereo.

 

Do you think I should just install this: http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

 

I saw the unit from your thread. Would you recommend it? Also, what other things will I need to buy. Since you spent time with many installers do you have a ball park range that they should charge for this install?

[rjam]

I have the Sony upgrade system. I have turned the bass all the way and turned off the mid and treble then put the fade to the front. Ugly but the extreme treble is worse. Sure thought 9 speaker Sony audio system would have good sound :(

[Adrian_L]

The Sony system is fine.  It isn't a "custom" audio system.  It isn't top-of-the-line, but it is a decent system that most owners will be happy with.  It could do with fuller bass, but overall the sound is crisp and clear.

 

Obviously turning the bass up all the way up and the midrange and treble all the way down will make it sound like crap.

Edited January 21, 2016 by Adrian_L

[HotPotato]

Thank you Hot Potato! My wife has a 13 Escape with the Sony and I think it is marginally better than my base stereo.

 

Do you think I should just install this: http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

 

I saw the unit from your thread. Would you recommend it? Also, what other things will I need to buy. Since you spent time with many installers do you have a ball park range that they should charge for this install?

 

That one is supposed to be so hyper-efficient that you can power it off existing wiring, without running a dedicated power lead from the battery; and so small that you can tuck it in behind the factory stereo. I'm a little dubious about using it like that: could it really pull enough power that way, and wouldn't it add enough heat in an enclosed space to cook itself and the factory stereo? So mine is not hooked up like that. It has its own power lead, is under the seat for more air circulation, and powers only midrange and treble. It works pretty well like that.

 

I'd be more inclined to try this one for your application -- http://www.crutchfield.com/S-P6vPbpPfzOD/p_20611DX2K4/Kicker-11DX200-4.html. It has noise rejection, so you won't get a hum when the headlights are on or whatever, plus it has cooling fins, and it has crossovers to let you easily add a sub later. Problem is, apparently it's not available any more. When I filter Crutchfield's stock of amps to affordable, modestly powered, 4-channel, class D (efficient digital) amps, they all look like the Alpine now.

 

Shouldn't cost too much for a simple amp install; get a couple of quotes to see what's typical in your area.

 

It's disappointing to hear that the Sony isn't that much better, but also kind of a relief that I didn't miss out. :-)  

[fbov]

...Obviously turning the bass up all the way up and the midrange and treble all the way down will make it sound like crap.

Not necessarily.

 

Well, you and I may be of that opinion, but there is room for variations in preference, and in this case, I suspect a lot of ear training.

 

We're talking about what's known as a "house curve" or in theater terms, the "X-curve." used as the target when equalizing theater audio frequency response. The first link shows a lot of target curves, all with the same downward slope, left to right. Clearly, there's a common trend to increased bass and reduce treble levels. The second link is a retrospective on theatrical frequency response standards, showing a wide range of variation over the years, even if today's EQ standard is quite mild.

 

The point is that someone accustomed to a very extreme house curve, as one commonly hears coming from car audio systems, thinks that's the way it's supposed to sound. Who are we to say otherwise, as long as their systems are inaudible to us, and our insurance doesn't pay for their hearing aids.

 

Have fun,

Frank