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Manual Liftgate won't unlock - 2014 cmax


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Always had problems with the liftgate. (it's a manual - no power or foot) First it wouldn't close completely and we got the ajar light in the dashboard, then we had to push down really hard to open it. I fixed this issue by adjusting the door stoppers on the side.

 

Now it seems like completely dead...no clicking sound of the latch either with remote or by pushing the button under the handle. I can't open it anymore. Checked the fuse under the clove department and it was broken...replaced it and thought this was the culprit, but still not working.

 

There is no emergency or manual release. Climbed in the back to disconnect the battery to reset the computer...still not working!

 

Ford wants $160 just to do a check to see what's wrong.

 

Help!

What else can I try?

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So, you put in a new fuse 65 under the glove box which is also the location of the Body Control Module? Also, make sure you have 12 V on the fuse as it is hot all the time. Now, try to open the lift gate. You should hear a relay click on the BCM when you try to open the lift gate. If not then the BCM likely needs replaced as that relay is not serviceable.

 

If relay on BCM clicks, then the issue is likely wiring or latch motor at lift gate. Also, there may be lift gate DTCs thrown for certain lift gate issues that the modules detect.

 

I looked in the manual for a way to manually release latch but didn’t find anything. One would think there should be a way to push latch open with say a screw driver from inside the hatch area.

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Hi Golfer,

correct , I changed the F65 fuse under the clove box. (rechecked a few times after to make sure it didn't blow again)

According to my manual, The body control module is in The power distribution box and located in the engine compartment. It has high-current fuses.

 

Anyways, I hear a relay clicking sound around where the fuse box under the clove department is. 

 

So I guess it could be the latch motor...problem is, how would I get it out if I can't even open the Liftgate?

 

Do you think autozone can do a scan on my car to see if a code shows up? 

 

Thank you for your info.

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There was a recall on this back in 2014.

 

There was a TSB 14-0070 issued for the lift gate ajar message adjustment procedure and power lift gate not latching properly but it doesn't address what to do if liftgate won't open.  

 

OP, the BCM is located behind the fuse block under the glove box. The battery junction box is in the engine bay with the higher powered fuses. Did you look on youtube for videos on opening latched liftgate manually?  Others including those with other Ford products may have had this issue.  There's got to be a way.  I wonder if you can pry off the cover of the latch from inside the car.  I'd try but don't want to break cover.  :)

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So I guess my BCM is working then, since it makes a clicking sound under the glove box. Prying off the cover from inside might be my last option to get a closer look of what's going on then, argh., it's pretty hot right now here. :drop: I wonder how the ford dealer would go on to fix this issue. I couldn't find any helpful videos on youtube..most cars have an opening or emergency release in the back.

Edited by Lacienega
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It just dawned on me that maybe one can remove the liftgate trim from the inside of the car instead of doing it normally with the hatch open.  Here's my post with pics on how to remove the trim.  It looks doable if one is rather small and flexible. :)

 

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/6200-liftgate-finish-handle-trim-busted-off/?p=68388

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I tried removing the panel from the liftgate, but it's very hard from the inside while it's closed . There's nothing  really to grab on in order to pull it off. Already had to remove the battery cover just to get access to the liftgate handle screws. This is just such a bad engineering, they probably never thought about what to do in a case like this. I guess I have no other option and pay the stealer to fix it. I feel this should not happen to a car after that short time. I don't think I will ever buy a ford again.

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Good try. Let us know what the problem is and how they opened the hatch.

 

I’ve owned two other Ford products. 1965 Mustang and 1986 Sable Wagon. The Sable was nothing but trips to the dealer in our 2 years of ownership. I vowed never to own another Ford and didn’t until 12/2012 when I purchased our C-Max. Our C-Max experience, being one of the best of cars we’ve owned, makes it more likely I’ll buy a Ford product to replace it. Amazing how ones experience with a product affects customer loyalty. Some manufacturers get it and others don’t.

 

Here’s an interesting survey by Edmunds. https://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/unversioned/img/industry-center/analysis/2018-edmunds-loyalty-report.pdf

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Sensible sizing is, I feel, the big reason people like SUVs/CUVs.  A taller vehicle (overall and at the back)  allows higher seats (more comfort), easier entry/exit (people and cargo), a more commanding view of the road and, yes, curb clearance!  Once people get over thinking "station wagon" and drop the "gas hog" image, they realize its a Sensible Utility Vehicle.  Its really just a return to how "cars" were made in the 1940s at 66 to 70 inches tall - same as SUVs today!  In comparison, today's "cars" are 10 inches lower.  People drive an SUV and it feels "right", whether they think about the reasons or not.

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If you pull connector you can check if voltage is being applied to the motor momentarily when the BCM tries to actuate the motor.  If not. you can apply 12 V to the motor?  See attachment.  Is there a way to manually rotate motor with a wrench, screwdriver?  Is it possible to remove the 2 screws holding the liftgate release switch / motor and perhaps try to lift the assembly out which might rotate latch to open.  

 

 

post-167-0-44147300-1561552651_thumb.jpg

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Last straw might be to make a call to the Service Adviser at the dealer.  If he's willing to help (rather than say bring it in and for $160 we'll tell you), he can certainly ask a tech how to get it open since you've verified that voltage is being applied to the switch / motor.   Looking at the parts diagram,  I cant believe that the assembly won't come out after you removed the 3 screws for the latch and 2 for the striker.  What else can be holding them in place???

 

 

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/latch-assy-tailgate-7808645-1

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One other thing to try now that you have access to the latch...try spraying lubricant in latch.  I had similar (although not as bad) issue with hatch not opening consistently and dealer solved it with lubrication...See post #4 in following thread for more details:

 

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4827-rear-liftgate-wont-unlock/

 

Since there is a lot of plastic in that area, I suggest using a non-petroleum based lubricant (i.e. Silicon spray) to prevent it from attacking the plastic.

 

Hope this helps solve your problem.

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Hi guys,

the reason I couldn't open the liftgate after removing all the screws is that the latch is in an angle and still engaged with the lower part. Impossible to open...just a few inches.

So I gave up and decited to put everything back together and bring it to the dealer. I didn't plan to put the panel back on yet while the liftgate is closed (just too hard, already broke the little part around the latch because I didn't know it goes all around the lock). So guess what? I just tried one last time to open the liftgate from the handle and....kaboom! It snapped open. I couldn't believe it. It was like Christmas seeing my liftgate open after that long time. I have no idea what was wrong with it, like it has a mind of it's own. 

Now I slowly will put everything back together, it is so much easier when you can actually stand behind the car with open gate.

I will try to lubricate the latch just in case.

Thanks for all your help, really appreciate it.

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So glad to hear its open!  Since there was voltage at the connector but no clicking sound, it might have been a connector problem.  Look at both sides closely with a magnifier to see if anything looks strange and then spray it with DioxIT contact cleaner - its supposed to be the best.  Here's one link but there are many other sellers of course.

 

Also, any possible way of attaching a manual release cable that one could snake out a hole somewhere?  Its totally crazy not to have an emergency release with so many possible failure modes.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, assuming that the BCM relay is still clicking, there is 12 volts at the latch connector, and the fact that you've had the issue several times in the past and then it starts working, might be a faulty connection as SS indicates.

 

Disconnect the cable to the latch assembly and jumper positive 12 V to terminal 1 and ground to terminal 2 of the latch assembly and see it the latch works.  The attachments show the connector wiring and the latch assembly where you can see the 4 connection points that match the connector diagram.  If the latch doesn't open, then the latch assembly is likely bad.  If it opens but doesn't open with the lift gate handle, then the problem might be in the cable, the connector ground, ground splice in the cable, or the physical connection to chassis ground. See attachments for splice and its location.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Plus 3 Golfer
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Thank you Golfer for all the information and pictures. I would love to try this, but...the main problem is, that I can't access anything from inside the car with the liftgate closed. 

I did this once and broke  a piece of the back trim....I felt like I took have the car apart just to get to the latch. I don't want to go through this nightmare again.

For now I just try to live without trunk  :runaway:

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Today it started working again :confused:

I didn't do anything abnormal, just tried to open it on the handle like every day and the latch clicked and the liftgate opened. This thing has a mind of it's own. 

I just wish I knew what the problem is so I can permanently fix it because I'm sure it will stop working randomly again in the future. My guess would be something wrong with the board computer.

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My 2013 C Max has a manual lift gate and I'm having a similar problem.  My key fob controls are off and on.  Sometimes everything works, other times nothing.  Today, I had to unlock the driver's door with the key and noticed that the interior lights didn't come on when the door was open. 

 

Could it be a BCM problem?

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

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My 2013 C Max has a manual lift gate and I'm having a similar problem.  My key fob controls are off and on.  Sometimes everything works, other times nothing.  Today, I had to unlock the driver's door with the key and noticed that the interior lights didn't come on when the door was open. 

 

Could it be a BCM problem?

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

I took my car into the dealer to see what's going on.  Needed new key fob batteries and a new engine battery.

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  • 2 months later...

Here's a possible solution to get lift gate to open when stuck (12 V battery good).  While trying to open lift gate squeezing handle on lift gate, push down on the handle / lift gate at the same time.  Raja on Energi forum says a friend does this when stuck and it works every time when it won't open by normal means.

Edited by Plus 3 Golfer
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