HannahWCU Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 (edited) I had a problem with the drivers window not rolling up on my CMax a year or so ago. It jumped the track on the forward portion of the window. It did this while the window was rolled down. Now I am having the same problem with the passenger side window. I have fixed it twice myself (as the vehicle is out of warranty <3 years old but almost 60k on the odometer), but it is now completely off the track. It is in the dealer today to see if they can fix it. Last time (Drivers Door), it took over 2 weeks to repair (never did get the paperwork for that repair). This is VERY frustrating and I am guessing VERY expensive. Seems to me that BOTH doors should not have this problem. and since it happens with the windows down fully, I have got to think this is a manufacturing issue not something I have done. I have not seen any other topics on this subject, anyone else have this problem? UPDATE: The problem is "a weld came loose" which is exactly what happened with the other window. Estimated $175 to fix. Not too bad, but a weld breaking??? Makes me wonder how well the rest of the car is built. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my CMax (sorry, it's HER CMax now, as I drive the Focus Electric), but in all my years of owning Fords, never had Welds come loose!! Edited June 26, 2015 by HannahWCU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipewriter Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 I have exactly the same problem, but only on the driver's side. Ford is clueless; thank you for isolating the problem. This has been considered a warranty issue by my dealer so far, as the operator had nothing to do with it other than lowering the window for an extended period. If the windows cannot be safely lowered they shouldn't be on the car.Stay tuned, Hannahpipewriter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HannahWCU Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Thanks! I was beginning to think I was the only one with this problem. Thought maybe it was something I did. Personally, I think Ford should pay for the repair since it was a weld (welds only have a 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty???). It is a WELD, shouldn't these last longer than the vehicle???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipewriter Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I had the same problem. The cause was a broken weld inside the door. Ford fixed it twice, the second time replacing the entire door assembly. They honored my extended warranty and then paid the $100 deductible when I refused to pay for what is clearly a manufacturing defect. I would urge all owners to let the car sit for a few hours with the front seat windows down, as this is what made the problem apparent. And you are right to worry about the general construction quality of the rest of the car. Welds shouldn't simply break. That is a basic amperage setting, whether done by robotics or a human. Keep me posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevedebi Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 I had the same problem. The cause was a broken weld inside the door. Ford fixed it twice, the second time replacing the entire door assembly. They honored my extended warranty and then paid the $100 deductible when I refused to pay for what is clearly a manufacturing defect. I would urge all owners to let the car sit for a few hours with the front seat windows down, as this is what made the problem apparent. And you are right to worry about the general construction quality of the rest of the car. Welds shouldn't simply break. That is a basic amperage setting, whether done by robotics or a human. Keep me posted.Just a note on welds. When I got my Energi, it developed a really annoying squeak in the right rear. After tearing the entire back apart, they found a broken weld on the battery shield. I'm not sure why this resulted in what sounded like plastic rubbing together. Other than that the car has been fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdlubbers Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 I brought it for this exact issue. Window just dropped when in down position. They found nothing and charged me 95.00 under my extended warranty. Three weeks later, it drops again. So I brought it back. And printed this forum, and handled to the service repair man. I wonder NOW what they will tell me. I hope they find the weld or whatever they couldn't find before. I am out of a car for a week at a time. This is ridiculous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CARiD Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 It's a very frustrating problem, IMO it should covered by a warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoreboardaj Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Has there been a solution to this problem. My local mechanic that the molding inside the door was warped. My window has come off it's bracket now twice in the past 2 weeks. My mechanic fixed it for free the second time. I don't want to put my window down now. I've put it down slightly and I can feel some tension when I stop the window as if it's fallen off again. hyperactiveme 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyperactiveme Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 (edited) Anyways the bracket in my 2016 is loose and rocks back and forth causing the channel/window to come out. Will try Rivet or jb weld if dealer won't warranty it. Very little room. Zoom in to the bottom of 2 welds for the issue. Wherever the window is rolled down it must flex out of that track. Then rolls up to about the sideview mirrors and bounced back down after hitting the molding. Edited August 15, 2018 by hyperactiveme Bill-N 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-N Posted July 22, 2019 Report Share Posted July 22, 2019 Anyways the bracket in my 2016 is loose and rocks back and forth causing the channel/window to come out. Will try Rivet or jb weld if dealer won't warranty it. Very little room. Zoom in to the bottom of 2 welds for the issue. Wherever the window is rolled down it must flex out of that track. Then rolls up to about the sideview mirrors and bounced back down after hitting the molding. Thank you for this post. I just had this issue while on vacation and was very fortunate to find a young mechanic who was able to get the window up until I could get home. Now the real question: short of replacing the door, is there a fix for this issue? Did/will epoxy or similar work? How about a pop rivet? Can it be re-welded? Any and all suggestions appreciated. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-N Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 Took the car to a body shop. They fixed the window for $100.00. Had to "strengthen" the track as it would flex and allow the window to pop out. Only occurred when the window was down as that put much more mass at the lower end of the track. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiigAl Posted October 3, 2022 Report Share Posted October 3, 2022 Thanks to all for the postings above. A couple months ago, my 2014 CMAX had the same issue. I tried to fix it myself but ended up going to a body shop for the repair. They billed me 6 hours of labor. I thought it was too much but now this problem is behind me. If the passenger door has this problem, I'll shop around for a better quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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