I know this post is 5 yrs old.  Just posting to possibly help someone else in future who might be reading or searching for solution.     2013 CMax SEL Hybrid 114K miles.  Rough running, flashing engine MIL light,  P codes: 0302 (cyl 2 misfire), 0202 (cyl 2 injector A circuit), 0316 (engine misfire on startup).     I had proactively replaced spark plugs about 1000 miles ago (couple months earlier).  First time the above malfunction happened a couple weeks ago I got all new coil on plugs, Motorcraft DG-522, and replaced all four, figuring and hoping it was a coil problem since I was pretty sure the spark plugs were fine. Problem went away for about a week. It happened again so I figured it probably wasn’t a spark problem anymore. Tested resistance between the two pins on each of the injectors with the multimeter, which should be between 11 and 18 ohms. I didn’t know that range of values at the time, but the suspected three good ones from cylinders 1, 3, 4 were about 13 ohms and cylinder two was about 29 ohms. Figured cylinder two is probably beyond a limit. Found online mechanics saying the resistance should be between the 11 and 18 ohms. Ordered four Bosch fuel injectors 62383 figuring I would just replace them all at once. Car had sat now for a couple days so wasn’t worried about fuel pressure or fire.  Wasn’t very difficult to replace injectors...   Obviously you have to remove the air filter box associated air hoses etc to get at the coils/plugs/injectors. Then took picture of all the wires as is, although I don’t think you could physically cross wire anything in truth on reinstallation. Then removed the wires from the coils and from the injectors, and all the wire mounts, to gain some working room below the wire looms. Blew the gunk out of the injector holes with compressed air. Loosened the two bolts holding the fuel rail on. Jiggled and wiggled the fuel rail plus 4 injectors out of the four cylinders. I did not disconnect the fuel line leading in to the fuel rail. A bit of fuel dripped around out of the injectors (a few ounces total), but I had a rag ready to soak it up. I cleaned the injector holes with the gasoline soaked rag and my finger, and some qtips.  I sucked the injector holes with a vacuum to remove any residual debris. Removed the old injectors from fuel rail with a small screwdriver to get the metal clip to release then pulled them out (still working below the wire looms with fuel input line still attached, tight but manageable plus a bit more fuel dripped out). Transferred the old metal clips over to the new injectors. Lubed the new injectors o rings with some Vaseline or could’ve used motor oil.  Inserted each injector by pushing in to fuel rail making sure the metal clip latched on the fuel rail lip.  Pushed the fuel rail with new injectors back into their 4 cylinder holes.  Tightened the fuel injector rail bolts to 17 foot pounds. And plugged everything back in. Double checked it looked right.  Started car and pressed gas to make ICE run (1-2 seconds of sputtering as fuel pressure built).  Checked for leaks and problems seems solved. We’ll see if it stays gone.  Hope this helps someone.  

The ACM needs its calibration/firmware updated. Ford has a TSB out for this. It will fix the issue permanently.

Hello, my ford cmax energi 2013 from US with J1772 charge spot. Im living in eu, most charge stations using type2. So adapter type 2 to type1 will works? Or need type2 to type1 charging cable? Cant charge at home cuz live in apartament. My ford can hold max 16A 3.7kw. Charging stations 2type 11-22kw. Im new for this

Sold it to Carvana. After many weeks on Autotrader, and many weeks of dealing with scammers, I found someone who was interested but he messaged me two days before I was due to leave the country. Between looking after the kids, and packing up our life, I couldn't find time to fit in a test drive, mechanic's inspection, etc.   Carvana paid more than any other online or retail outlet ($7.2k), and then sold it 1.5 months later for $13k.  

My 2014 C-MAX PHEV has stopped transmitting full power to the wheels. When I press the gas pedal to the floor, the engine roars, the electric motor turns, and the car barely moves. (It takes 14.7 seconds to reach 100 km/h.) A full inspection led to the conclusion that the clutch of the HF35 gearbox has most likely worn out. I would like to know if you have encountered this problem and how to solve it.

Hi, I have the same issue. Does anyone know how to do that?

>or 10 yr/150,000 mi if (first)sold in a CARB state.   I have a 2014 Ford Cmax hybrid SE. (certified as ULEV II)   It was sold in a CARB state, and is currently registered in a CARB state.   I was told I needed my entire transmission replaced.   This counts as a hybrid component as you mention here- but I am curious about the extended 10 year/150k miles warranty.   I can't find anywhere that states that hybrid components of a ULEV II vehicle, bought and currently registered in a CARB state, will abide by the 10 year/150k miles warranty instead of the standard 8 year/100k mile warranty.   I think this is my ticket to having the transmission replacement cost covered by ford.   All I see addressed are AT PZEV certified vehicles being covered for 15 years/150k miles.   I really need that statement that covers ULEV II vehicles, or at least 2014 hybrids being covered for 10 year/150k miles bought and registered in CARB states, and the the issue is a hybrid component.

I'm having the same issue with the red triangle 🔺️ comes on and the engine shuts off. I have a few DTC codes  C21400 C42082 C45282 C46B86 F00316 does anyone know why those DTC codes would pop up?

I just started installing LED turn signal bulbs and have the same odd discrepancy -- left hyperflashing and right normal.  If you solved the problem, what did you do? Thanks, Skip

my CMAX is 2013. Four times since I bought it new in 2013, and audio off indication shows up. The radio will not work, the back up warning signals do not work, and my smart phone does not work through the car.   There is a solution: remove the number 79 fuse, restart the car for a minute and re-insert the fuse. The problem is solved. I am posting to see if anyone has a solution to keep this from happening. It has happened a total of four or five times over the last 11 years. Thanks.