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RedLdr1

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Posts posted by RedLdr1

  1. FYI, w/ the keyless entry keypad, you will not be able to lock your keys in the car and say go for a jog or something and then get back in your car with the keypad.  Reason being is you can not lock the keys in the car.

     

    Just wrap your key fob in tinfoil and you can lock it in the car...the system will not be able to "see" it.   I've used this trick on other Ford's when rafting...

  2. I purchased and installed the Ford Accessory Side Window Deflectors Part No: DM5Z-18246-A on my C-Max.  These are basically Ford branded "Vent Visors" that allow you to open your windows partially for ventilation but block rain from getting in through the "cracked" window.  My C-Max sit outside most of the time and in Atlanta having a window partially opened can help prevent serious heat build up.  But with the occasional rain storm moving through having a partially opened window can be ugly...hence the need for the Side Window Deflectors.

     

    These were very easy to install as they are external mounted, not in the window channel like some Vent Visors, and adhere using the typical 3M "Red" body tape.  The kit comes with very good instructions and almost everything you will need.  I needed some additional isopropyl alcohol, or rubbing alcohol, for cleaning off the body before mounting the deflectors.

     

    First the Good News, they install easily, they fit well, they are not noisy, and they work...  You can't always say that about any accessory so that is a very good thing.... :)

     

    Now for the things you need to know before purchasing these deflectors...

     

    First, they mount to the rubber gasket above the door windows.  So that they will adhere properly Ford provides a green "scratch pad" for you to "rough up" the rubber surface.  "Rough up" means scratch and scour which removes the nice smooth, pretty, look from the rubber.  If you properly install these it will not look nice if you change your mind and remove them...

     

    Second, if you are going to seriously play "hyper-miler" do not even consider installing the deflectors.  To be able to do their "deflector" job they stick out from the body around an inch and a half.  Those protrusions create four new drag surfaces, I can feel some turbulence with the windows down, that will probably negatively impact your MPG during highway driving.  In city driving at lower speeds when aerodynamics aren't an issue it shouldn't matter if you install them. 

     

    Since I am more concerned about my comfort than the potential lower highway MPG I think they are a good accessory....

     

    A few pictures:

     

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    Driver's Side Front

     

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    Driver's Side Rear Quarter

     

    8552646370_47d02bf068_c.jpg
    Drivers' Side Rear

     

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    Passenger Side Front

     

    8552647140_80739f4b4e_c.jpg
    Passenger Side rear quarter

     

    8551544411_b4e6cb66f8_c.jpg
    Passenger Side Rear

     

    8552648836_dde994b447_c.jpg
    Just A Nice Picture... :)

  3. I know a couple of folks who have modified OEM light assemblies on other vehicles, replacing reflectors assemblies for home HID installs, and it is not any easy job.  The assemblies are glued together, or sometimes pressed and melted together, and will usually require some serious cutting to open...  Getting them back together was a challenge as well... 

     

    I would just go with some LED DRLs mounted in the middle grill, they would be just as visible and a lot less painful to install.   Hella offers some very good DRL options that will probably last longer than the knock offs out in the market...

  4. No... First, I'm not nearly "pious" enough...  Second, I was taught to respect other people...  Third, way too many "Bubbas" around here drive old, jacked up pickups...a case of road rage caused by inconsiderate "pious" behavior could get really ugly...  I only "geek out" when there is no one else to annoy...except my wife who has now gotten almost used to it...

  5. Just another data point about the BXT67R battery...  It is not new and has been used by Ford in several compact and mid-size vehicles since MY2010 which means calendar year 2009.   Here is a link to the application list:  FordParts then click on the Buyers Guide "button" to see the application chart listed below....

     

    Years Make Model Engine Qty per Vehicle

    2013 Ford C-Max All Engines (1) 1

    2012-2013 Ford Focus All Engines 1

    2010-2013 Ford Fusion All Engines (1) 1

    2010-2013 Lincoln MKZ All Engines (1) 1

    2010-2011 Mercury Milan All Engines (1) 1

     

    Another "interesting" thing is I do not see nearly as many "Dead Battery" post on the Fusion forums...

  6. I've been using my Intro-Tech now for two months with no issues.   Leaving the black side out may or may not be keeping the C-Max a little warmer... :headscratch:  There is no real way to validate that claim with the weird weather we have been having around here!  I just ordered one for the new Fusion, at least it will be a bit smaller since the windshield seems miniscule when compared to the C-Max! ;)

  7. Also, how can you do a remote start type of thing when you are away from home or not plugged in. I did try to research this but my skills in this area are apparently severly limited. Thanks for any help you can give.                                                                                                                                                                    

     

    The Energi comes with a built in "cellphone" to allow Remote Access to the car using the Ford supplied application on your cellphone....  Think of it as being like GM's OnStar but a bit smarter...

  8. I believe the Adaptive Cruise uses Radar which transmits thru plastic. If I could figure out where the sensor is on my wife's Explorer I'd try it out. 

     

    It is a low power radar, on the FFH, and SHO for that matter, the transmitter is in the windshield mirror mount, the receiver is in the lower grill on the drivers side behind the black plastic....

  9. RedLdr1 are you interested in doing some grill cover testing on FFH?

     

    Possibly, but since my FFH has ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) you would need to make a different lower grill cover...

     

    Nice, you have a fuel efficient garage now.

     

    Yeah, the "gas hogs" in the garage now are my Harley Davidson Tri-Glide and Yamaha FJ1200... I never thought I'd see the day when my cars get better gas mileage than my motorcycles..... :)

  10. will believe it when I see it - the dealer I do business with has no idea either just like the ford tech specialist I spoke to

     

    I "hear" you...  There is a note on OASIS, Ford's Service software, that he got the info from so he is just giving the party line to me...but that's the best info he has available.    Now I need two sets of it so I'll complain twice as much... ;)

  11. My wife and I like the C-Max so well that we swapped our SHO for a 2013 Fusion SE Hybrid.  We considered a second C-Max SEL but the Fusion SE Hybrid offers several options not currently offered on the C-Max.  By going with a Fusion that allowed us to find a car with about the same options as the SHO...except the 365 HP! :cry:    It is White Platinum Metallic or "Tri-White" exterior, as was the SHO, with a Dune leather interior and the 505A Luxury Package.   Add in Navigation, SE Hybrid Technology Package, Active Park Assist, Adaptive Cruise Control, BLIS Cross Traffic Alert, Lane Keeping System, and Reverse Sensing System, and it has more high tech toys than the SHO.  A Moonroof, 18" Painted Luxury Wheels, and Premium Floor mats round out the package... 

     

    I'll definitely miss the SHO's power but I won't miss its 18 MPG average while using Premium fuel.   Since the Fusion has the same drive train as the C-Max I'm expecting a couple of MPG better since the Fusion weighs a little less and is a wee bit more aerodynamic... :)   My wife will be driving the Fusion and I'll have the C-Max so now the competition for the best MPG numbers begins....

  12.  

    Actually it doesn't auto shut down all the lights at shutdown under certain scenarios. Example you have your headlights on (not the auto position). You power car down, headlights do get shutoff. However, even with doors locked etc the window mirror and corner lights are still on. I realized it after I found my car with its lights still on after I went into the house. If headlights are on autoposition then yes everything powers off. That may be another reason why some owners are draining their batteries?

     

     

    See Page 75, quoted below, of your Owners Manual.  The lights, and other power, will stay on for 10 to 30 minutes before automatically shutting down....

     

    • Battery Saver

      If the courtesy lamps, dome lamps or headlamps are left on, the battery saver will shut them off 10 minutes after the ignition has been turned off.

      Accessory Mode Battery Saver for Intelligent Access Keys (If Equipped)

      If you shut off the engine and leave the ignition in the on or accessory mode, the ignition will shut off after 30 minutes.

     

     Also if one of your doors are not closed completely the approach lights also will stay on.

     

    That is a good example of "user error" and not Ford's fault...  I'm sure if I go out of my way to find a way I could make the lights stay on and kill the battery in any car...

  13. are dealers replacing batteries under warranty or are you having to pay for a new battery?  Or are they being PIA's and blaming the customer that they left the lights on etc etc?

     

    My 12V battery was replaced under warranty after it failed a load test.   Since the car automatically shuts down lights and other accessories it is hard to blame the owner... 

  14. One of the annoying "little things" about the C-Max for me was the lack of a rear cargo net.  I have a fairly steep driveway and opening the rear hatch can cause a landslide of "stuff" out of the cargo area on to the driveway if I'm not watching carefully.  Plus I like being able to place grocery bags in to an envelope style net to keep milk jugs and other liquids upright.  While I have already added the Ford Accessory Cargo Area Protector rubber mat I have no desire to test it...  The Ford Accessory Store lists a Cargo Net by Lastik, Part No: VDM5Z-54550A66-A, but it is too small, left to right, and installs way too far forward at the top for what I wanted. 

     

    So...what to do...  A bit of poking around in my garage turned up the Cargo Net that was in my Sonata Hybrid.  At 36 inches across and 12 inches tall (unstretched) it would fit the rear of the C-Max perfect for my needs...  That's one down.  Note:  Similar Cargo Nets are available at Automotive stores, dealerships, "junk" yards, or off eBay if you are not a pack rat like I am....

     

    The two silver colored metal U-loops in the C-Max tailgate area will work perfect for securing the bottom of the Cargo Net.   That is half the battle...

     

    Now the top of the net is a different issue, there is no handy place to secure the Cargo Net... :headscratch:   Since I've been riding motorcycles for over 40 years I am very familiar with "bungee cords"  I have used them to strap down all sorts of odd shaped items on my bikes.  And bikes quite often don't have a handy place to secure a bungee cord..kinda like the C-Max... ;)   So an aftermarket company came out with a product called Bungee Buddy which allows you to add a secure strap point.  A quick visit to eBay and I had a set of four of them for $12.00 including shipping....  Those will secure the top of the Cargo Net.  That is two down...

     

    With all the parts in hand I realized I also needed a better way to hook the Cargo Net attachment loops to the anchor points.  A quick trip to Home Depot turned up some Zinc Plated Spring Links that make the Cargo Net easy to remove if I need to take it out....  Three down and time to go to work!

     

    After some measuring, and looking at different locations, I decided to mount the Bungee Buddy's to the plastic rail the Cargo Cover follows.  The bottom of that area is open, I believe this is the intake for the battery cooling fan, and can be easily accessed to attach the Bungee Buddy without removing any panels.  I wanted the Bungee Buddy to lie flat so I moved it forward 7.5 inches as measured from the rear cargo cover's bottom to the hole I drilled.  I drilled the hole 1.5 inches down from the top of the rail.  I choose 1.5 inches as this allows the cover to lay over the Bungee Buddy with no interference.  See the attached photo ( Bungee Buddy Measurements) for the measuring points I used.   After drilling the holes it was an easy job to bolt on the Bungee Buddy's and tighten them down.  I found it was easier to hold the wrench on the backside and tighten the Bungee Buddy from the front with a screw driver insert through the loop twisting it.   This was a 30 minute project requiring only basic hand tools except for drilling the two mounting holes for the Bungee Buddy, I used a Dremel tool for that task.

     

    Enough talk, here are some photos....  Too see a larger view than I can post here just click the photos and you will be able to see the larger versions in my Flikr account....

     

     

    8504631143_4bc17c6a4f_c.jpg
    Finished Install

     

    8514037526_f1e0ea65e6_c.jpg
    Bungee Buddy Measurements

     

    8505740898_9bfe129701_c.jpg
    Drivers Side Top

     

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    Drivers Side Bottom
     

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    Passenger Side Top

     

    8505741978_155e71b5a0_c.jpg
    Passenger Side Bottom

     

    8513974996_4e258a25b6.jpg
    Bungee Buddys

     

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    Spring Link

     

    Disclaimer:  If you choose to make this modification it is at your own risk.

     

  15. Andrew

     

    It is possible that the problem is related to charging rather than discharging. If software or something else is not allowing the step down converter to charge the 12 volt battery sufficiently, then it could result in a dead 12 volt system unable to unlock or start the car, just like a broken alternator in a regular gas engine car would lead to a dead battery. Whether this is the problem or not is something only testing will show. But it seems like a logical possibility. A discharge problem (a circuit that stays open, a short) is a logical possibility, too. It could also be a hardware problem with the converter. 

     

    In theory if you had a problem charging you should see a Battery warning light while the car was running.   Same as when I broke the alternator drive belt on an older car,  that set off the Battery light since it couldn't recharge... 

  16. RedLdr

     

    May we please ask you to post the name of your dealership so that in our discussions with Ford we can make a clear reference to your case? That way Ford central can confer with the mechanics who worked on your car.

     

    I do not think any of us have had a live circuit problem traced to the instrument panel or to anyplace else. Mbedit's car had a power drain but his mechanics never were able to trace it to a source, although, as I recall, he said they looked at the instrument panel, too. For all the rest of us, no power drain has shown up on tests, but this might be a byproduct of how the mechanics are testing for power drains.

     

     

    Sure, the dealership is Cherokee Ford, located in Woodstock, Georgia.  Their telephone number is 770-592-0090. 

     

    Ford's engineers can easily look up the repair info, without calling the dealership, just by entering my VIN (PM Me for the VIN) in Ford's OASIS service software.  Their software should list the Warranty Repair details with the Part Numbers of the bits and pieces they replaced as well as the complete history, well their side of it anyway,  ;)  that I over viewed in my thread on the problem. 

     

    If you want to chat about it PM me your contact info, I think I have the PM function here figured out now....

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