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Do you have a source for that number? The only 2020 Escape drivetrain listed by the EPA is the 1.3L Turbo 8-speed FWD. 30 MPG is not bad compared with the 2019's mid-20's. https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.shtml Frank

I'm curious what "tramline" might be? Only thought is driving on trolly tracks, lumps of polished steel that rubber slides off when wet. 40 years ago I went to my first autocross. A few years later, it was drivers' school at Watkins Glen (became an instructor). We set tire pressure based on what each tire told us it needed, anywhere between 25 and 45 psi, depending on tire design. We were competing, so we knew all about too-much pressure... this wasn't too much. All rookies had to up their front pressures to insure the tire would stay on the wheel long enough for them to learn from their mistakes. This was in an era of 44 psi sidewall limits, so folks didn't keep them that high... except those of use still within the sidewall limit. So, I've been running my tires at sidewall rating since then. Nothing adverse that I can blame on the tire. Same with the snow tires. And be aware that a tire's load limit is only available at rated pressure. If you run 10-20 psi lower than rated, you have a much lower load limit and will tend to heat up more. Look up "Ford Explorer Firestone tires." From Wikipedia... "The Explorer weighs more than the Ford Ranger and has a higher Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) while also having a lower recommended tire pressure.[2] This difference in weight and tire pressure explains why Ford Explorers had far more tire failures than Ford Rangers even though they used the same tire models." The only possible reason a club would limit pressure is because they are a track club where sessions last for long periods of time (not a 60 sec. autocross run). Tires get very hot and air pressure inside rises tremendously. It's why racers use dry air or N2, so moisture isn't a factor. I just want folks to make informed choices. HAve fun, Frank

There is, in the RAV-4. Toyota's AWD puts a motor/generator on each rear wheel, where it has no effect on turning circle, but can provide regen braking and motive power. From what I've read, the disadvantage is that the rear MG capability limits the RAV-4 AWD split options, while the 2020 Escape AWD is AI-based, with a 0-100% torque split with the front wheels. The rear axle is open-diff... no left-right limited slip, just front-rear. It's the same as the 2019 Edge AWD, so a second-year technology. Have fun, Frank

Unless he's in a good spot for short-term parking, like in a restaurant district... but a niche market nonetheless. A scientist would understand signal-to-noise ratio. My apologies for the mistake. Frank

Got a reference? Or are you just repeating something someone said.... Frank

Conventional, but what Ford calls Intelligent Disconnect AWD. Frank

Same power-split based drivetrain as the C-Max but... - 2.5L ICE - optional AWD - 1,500 lb. tow limit. I haven't seen any details on the motors. A little more power (200 HP), a little less weight (86 lb. lighter FWD or 66 lb.heavier AWD). Frank

I will say the C-Max has been a wonderful car for us. Biggest problem is braking system reliability; salt really gets to the rotors if you regen a lot (and you want to use regenerative braking). I can forgive that. HAve fun, Frank

I'm one of the people with a hitch platform, and I don't see it being a good fit for your loads. It's good for boxy things, not long-skinnies. Backpacks, not kayaks. I've seen roof rack systems, but you can be sure the C-Max versions are getting hard to find now that the car's out of production. In fact, the VW would be my first choice were it not for the uncertainty over post-repair drivability, and the certainty of some hefty maintenance bills for the diesel. There's a great irony in how well your needs fit into Ford's future products. The closest thing to a C-Max replacement is the 2020 Escape Hybrid, which fits your needs to a T, but blows your budget. Best of luck, Frank

Think how the discussion changes if this is actually the best MAXIMUM temperature...

Given the Escape's position as #2 seller, I found the reviewer preference for the hybrid interesting... will Ford sell a lot of them? I don't know Fusion sales figures offhand, but it's interesting that Ford didn't stop production of our drivetrain; a 2L Fusion Hybrid remains available in 2020. And I agree the Escape is no C-Max replacement. Ford left the C-Max market, here and in Europe, but they have expanded their hybrid line into SUVs in 2020. Saw a commercial for a 2020 Explorer Hybrid, so I went "shopping" on Ford's online vehicle showroom. The Hybrid is priced in Expedition territory - $50K+ - for a helper motor between the 3.3L engine and 10-speed auto tranny. Similar layout to my wife's Sonata Hybrid, and expected to show up in a truck. As to the liquid cooled battery, my first thought upon hearing that 30C is optimum temperature is that maybe they'll include a heater? I'll note the vehicle showroom doesn't show a block heater option for the Escape, but it does for several other SUVs. Have fun, Frank

My thinking as well. Plus, Li-ion battery aging is a time-at-temperature, time-at-voltage effect as I understand it. Short-term charge peaks with temperature control may not have significant life impacts. Videos also show a Hyundai-like power circle with both charge and discharge levels shown. I'm curious what aspects of the C-Max displays are incorporated. Have fun, Frank

Those of us with 2013's are well aware of early production issues. At the same time, I've still got almost 40K miles until "tranny time." Researching trade-in values, mine hasn't changed since last year (likely because I'm still 40K from "tranny time"). It's got me looking at leasing. There's also availability. Early EVs are all AWD Hybrid. Ford won't make the FWD versions (Hybrid and plug-in) until Spring. That makes sense, given winter weather is a common justification for AWD. I'm from the "1 wheel drive, 2 wheel steer, 4 wheel brake" school of winter driving. I worry that AWD might make me one of those guys who just gets stuck farther from the road. Worries about AWD killing mileage appear unfounded. I looked at several of the test drive videos, all AWD, and those that quoted a number were in the low 40's over rural terrain. Favorable roads but, as we all know, it's the driver that matters. Also saw one car with Bridgestone Ecopia tires, and Michelin Premier several times. No Energy Saver/AS. Have fun, Frank

I've been watching the blueovalforum Escape/Kuga forum. They've scooped everyone else every time. https://blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/forum/73-escape-kuga-forum/ Frank

This battery is air cooled; there's only 1L of coolant, and it's under the hood. The next gen hybrid drivetrain in the 2020 Escape has 10L of coolant on the electric side. HAve fun, Frank

+1 Members of this forum at high mileage report the chart is accurate. No loss in performance, so no reason to replace save for random failures. Have fun, Frank

Yep, that needs a buffer battery, especially since you've got the rest of the system in place. Two options are a low-power trickle charger that doesn't overload the 110v outlet, or perhaps the B2B charger using the full-time 12v outlet in the cargo area. Both require the vehicle running, the 110V to operate, the 12v for maintenance. Bad things happen if the car's 12v battery gets weak/low, regardless the state of HVB charge. Be careful not to draw it down. Early SE's had issues that drove owners nuts. You can test your 12v battery with the "radio test." The radio stays on after you turn off the car, until you open the door. It eventually times out; measure how long it takes. 10 min. is very good, 2 min. not so much... unless the battery was changed and the SW not reset. Do a search here if you're interested. HAve fun, Frank

Sorry to hear! I wonder if you can find out what was involved in the program fix, and what it might cost. Anyone? HAve fun, Frnak

Why? You've got 1.5KVA already, perhaps it already meets your needs. Frank

Whenever I actuate mine, it opens fully. I do remember issues with the tailgate that were rectified in 2013 by a recall, 13B06. I came from a manual tailgate and didn't acclimate quickly, so I remember the point when it started working properly. Have fun, Frank

+1 Conductive grease has carbon in it, and does a great job on things like battery terminals. When you hear "dielectric," think in terms of the electric insulator in capacitors, the one that insures no DC current can pass. Frank

Before my RCM failed, I had one case where the car applied the brakes on it's own in the middle of a turn. I assumed it was an overaggressive skid prevention system. Given it has never happened again, I now think it was a symptom of the bad RCM. We're both 2013's... Best of luck, Frank

In retirement, I take lots of short trips, but I also avoid the really cold weather....

I just blipped up to 41.4.

This sounds like it might be an accelerometer issue. Some early builds, like ours, had a bad RCM. I blew mine in August, 2014, and they couldn't replace it until October. After replacement, they performed the 14S04 recall. You may want to look into service actions performed in conjunction with the 14S04 recall, if you can access the service records. It was a pothole, hit really hard, that blew the RCM, and turned my dash into a Christmas tree for a few months. That's why I mention the accelerometers; mine were fragile enough a pothole killed them. If your RCM is still original, that's where I'd look. HAve fun, Frank