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Indeed. I am very happy to see he's making video's again... I'd be ecstatic if I had a Mach E.

It's not a flashlight. You can hurt yourself at these voltages. Do you still think, after all these years, that you can "just switch the hot line?" First, you'd have to get dressed for it. Then you'd need a second voltage matching circuit. Switching 200+VDC with mechanical contacts causes an arc every time you open and close the switch. The arc destroys the contacts, so the switch fails. You'd need to add a second voltage matching circuit to your added pack, to bring the contacts up to voltage before closing them. Now, where are you going to put it?

Then you are a fool.

Good memory! Worn tread is thinner tread, so it bends more easily. My Escape Hybrid's OEM Ecopia's were almost flimsy, and I did see a slight uptick in mileage in their last few thousand miles... but it was a very small shift just before I put the CC2 on in 11/21. This past Winter wasn't far off the past, but Summer sure is. Barely seeing 45 mpg, not 50 mpg. This is an even more analytical picture, because I do volunteer courier work to the tune of 1K miles per month (lower curves). Since you can't average MPG, I plot "fuel usage" so I can take averages. Two seasons on OEM overlap, but average of CC2 are 10% higher. And I should include some C-Max data... OEM Energy Savers vs. X-Ice 3, whose curves overlap. Snow tires don't have to hurt mileage, even if Winter will.

Ecopias were the OEM tire on my Escape. They did much better in snow than they had any right to, and their replacement (CrossClimate2) are running 10% greater fuel consumption. CC2 are great tires in many respects, just not LRR.

You should have a button on the shifter that engages "Hill Descent" mode, an elevated level of regen when driving down a grade. Mine would max out (35kW) on a steep hill, then go into engine brake mode, aka "jake" brake, which is very loud, but intended operation, nonetheless.

Keep in mind that Energi variants had 0 of 4 transmission failures in the same test that failed 3 of 4 in Hybrid variants.

CC2 are very good tires, but they're not low RR. I'm seeing a 10% increase in fuel consumption since mounting them. Great in every other respect, especially in winter, but I'm not seeing 50 mpg this year. European tires are a different design.

It's in here, but I agree you don't need to do it for a 12v battery replacement. 2013_CMAX_Modifer_Guide.pdf

Not really (assuming it has all the safety approvals). The only reason I see is if you planned to upgrade, EV-wise, to something that needs more power. 1.7kW from a 110v circuit only cuts it for plug-in hybrids.

Nothing in my OM, either... just a bunch of things to do after replacement to get the car "reset." BMS reset is in the forum

Welcome, and I like your guess. Have you looked at it to see if it's ever been replaced? There is a simple test... turn on the radio, turn off the car and wait without opening the door. Time how long the radio plays. A good 12v battery will get you 10 min. A poor one, more like 2 min. Best of luck! You'll find lots here; try a search!

People like you allow me to claim I'm not hypermiling... I only get ~45 mpg (and that's in the Escape).

Have you looked underneath for something loose? Sway bar links are famous for failure, and the symptoms are close to what you describe. Not a hard DIY fix, and fairly cheap to hire out. Have fun, Frank

Why? Your life is holding well! The biggest issue is that the HVB is matched to an inverter/converter system tailored to the HVB voltage. It's a smaller battery, running at lower voltage than C-Max, but with water cooling that allows much more aggressive charging/discharging.

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparison-test/a29878756/2020-ford-escape-hybrid-vs-2019-toyota-rav4-hybrid/ Scroll down to test results. Same power as the HF35's 2.0L and within arguing distance of the same weight. Escape is taller and wider, so larger, and I've learned to love the ability to get a snug fit for cargo by changing rear seat position.

We've had several owners report >250K (ptjones, recumpence), but you're soon to enter rarefied territory. You're reliability tracking doesn't show an overall wear out pattern today, but the brakes and plugs won't last forever. I'd renew them before I handed it down. They owe you nothing. I'll also recommend an upgrade to the HF45 in the Escape. Bigger car, better mileage...

To be clear, my 2013 never failed, but I traded it in at 66K miles. My lack of faith was bolstered by results of an early C-Max life test, service records attached, where 3 of 4 Hybrids, and 0 of 4 Energi's, had transmissions replaced at ~100K miles, in severe service. I can no longer find the data online, but can offer the attached for your perusal. For reference, the service records for many other hybrid/plug-in/electric vehicles in these tests went on for pages. There's very little C-Max service that's not replacing wear-out parts. And you may have the 4th hybrid, whose transmission will last. (Energi's have an electric oil pump.) IDL data 2013cmax HEV PHEV.zip

Lots of owners have made 200-300K miles, many of the early ones with rebuilt transmissions. The chassis is quite reliable, as you've found, and there's nothing in the Hybrid drivetrain that will wear out. I'm in an Escape Hybrid because I had a 10/2012 build date, and it once made a loud "thunk" shifting from Park to Reverse. It's been just as reliable as the C-Max, and it works even better.

more links....

Maverick is a hybrid, so the Energi battery discussions will not apply. Hybrid HVBs are life-of-car parts and do not fail like Energi HVBs because they spend their life near 50% SOC, not 100%.

Understandable. I backed into this recommendation. Starting in 1973 with studded snow tires, I've tried everything but cheap tires. These new all-weather products are a game changer for my needs. But this really is something you need to back into... see what top-quality snow tires buy you before settling for less. You may be interested in Tyrereviews comparison of 5 Nokian tires, summer, all season, all weather, snow and extreme Nordic. The best snow performance comes at a price, paid in the wet and dry.

Me, too, except I traded... look at my sig. My condolences. This Escape Hybrid has 225/55/19's with a far greater load rating than for the C-Max (despite little weight difference). That's the goal; informed decisions. The "all weather" tires I'm suggesting you consider feature the 3PMSF designation, and the best of them are the equal of snow tires until you hit glare ice. There's a guy in the UK who has done a lot of very rigorous tire testing in dry, wet and snow. While he's using European-spec tires, not sold in the US, the general result are useful because he includes a top snow tire, and a top summer tire when comparing all-season or all-weather tires. The specialist rarely win outside their specialty. He also does head-to-head comparisons, like this one between FWD on Snows vs. AWD on All-Weather.

Consider that the Escape offers 17, 18 and 19" wheel options. Each uses an increasingly lower aspect ratio, 65, 60, and 55, to maintain the same diameter. The issue is that your options are limited when you start with a 50-series combination.

The only thing that's changed is the development of "all weather" tires that features significant winter grip, with all-season wear rates. It's a combination of aggressive tread patterns with cold-weather tread compounds that retain traction below 40F. The tradeoff is ice traction, especially for the snow tires you mention. I have a set of too-small X-Ice from th eC-Max. I put CrossClimate 2 on the Escape. I won't know until February how that's working out.