drdiesel1

Never at anytime did, I EVER say this. You're reading into my statements and coming away with what you want to hear :drop: Good luck. I can understand why they don't care to talk to you any further. Bullheadedness is difficult to deal with, even on a forum. I'm not saying this to be mean, either. You need to expand your insight and allow someone to try and help you.

They both have an ICE with a fuel system, so it should be the same setup for both. Although, I doubt the NRG runs the pump very much because the ICE is rarely used :love_shower:

Evap system. Sounds like a leak detection pump activating to test for vacuum decay of the system.

We know it's the car. Why suffer while they come up with a permanent solution :drop:

I don't believe the dealer properly charged your battery. If the parasitic load is that bad, they should be able to find it. Maintaining a battery will keep it from dying due to continued low SOC. If your battery has been low all it's life, dead and only jump started, it's not a wonder why it dies all the time. I've been using this charge for the last 5 years or so. It works and that's the bottom line. Allowing a battery to be continually discharged is a death sentence. Trusting that a dealer properly charged your battery is as bad as believing what the salesman tell you :lol:

Award winners The Volt, which has a basic-rated optional forward collision warning system, is the only car in this test group to earn a 2014 Top Safety Pick+ award. The C-Max Hybrid, Countryman, Mitsubishi Lancer, and the Scion FR-S and its twin the Subaru BRZ qualify for Top Safety Pick, the Institute's second-highest award. These models miss the "plus" award because they don't have an available front crash prevention system. To qualify for Top Safety Pick+, a vehicle must earn a good or acceptable rating for small overlap protection, a good rating in the Institute's other four tests, and a basic, advanced or superior rating for front crash prevention. To qualify for Top Safety Pick, a vehicle must earn a good or acceptable rating for small overlap protection and a good rating in the other four tests.

This will take the guesswork out of the battery. http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC-1500A-CA-SpeedCharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B000H961YI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406485546&sr=8-1&keywords=1500+ship+n+shore+charger

Everyone should own a battery charger. Especially C-Max owners. http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC-1500A-CA-SpeedCharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B000H961YI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406485546&sr=8-1&keywords=1500+ship+n+shore+charger You'll never suffer this problem again if you use it to maintain your battery every 3 to 6 months. I use it on my non hybrid vehicles every 6 months. My wire's original car battery lasted 8 years to the month by being serviced on a regular basis. The C-Max is no different, IMO. It's a small battery and requires more frequent charging due to the issue's Ford hasn't been able to correct. Just use it and you'll be very happy.

How do you think the cards are made. They're all copies ;)

If you powered down 12V accessories and the problem stopped, I would charge and test my 12V battery.

55 Cold. We have a hypermiler that runs 60 plus, but I like 55.

Why risk it ? I wouldn't add an extension cord. The best advise would be to install a proper plug closer to the vehicle.

The key needs to be on for the DC/DC converter to charge the battery from the HVB supply.

No. I sold my 2013, but I just purchased a 2014 :happy feet:

Engine failure ?

Because the 12V battery powers the HVB contacts when the key/button is tunred on. Otherwise, the HVB would be active all the time.

It's only a fraction of the hole pie. Everything adds into better mpg's. 5W20 isn't much of a difference from 0w20 after warm, if at all. It will have a small impact on a cold engine. Synthetic oil, higher tire pressures, and driving habits add up. Maybe not as much as you expect, but it will in the long run. You need to look past the short term with these minor tweaks.

Personal preference ;) Maximizes tire life, tire wear and tire grip for better handling. Tire runs cooler and reduces rolling resistance to help maximize MPG.

You don't need to charge it all the time. Probably anywhere from every 3 to 6 months will keep it maintained. It all depends on the batteries SOC. State of Charge. The charger will tell you that info. With the rebates on the Energi, you can get one for the same price as a Hybrid. I have not had a battery problem with either, my 2013 or 2014 Energi.

I run 55 PSI in my tires and use 0W20 full synthetic oil ;)

No. Production to dealer is about 1 month on the 14's. Mine had a build date of May and it was at the dealer in June.

Your car has LOT(sitting unused) ROT. Make the dealer replace the battery and make sure it's properly charged before installation. Also make them update the software in the PCM. This will update all the modules with the latest fixes. I have advised everyone to buy a good battery charger that will condition the battery as well as maintain it. For 55 bucks at Amazon, you can't go wrong. It's plug and play. No complicated use requirements. Here's the link. http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC-1500A-CA-SpeedCharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B000H961YI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406485546&sr=8-1&keywords=1500+ship+n+shore+charger I use this charger for all my vehicles. Just pop the hood and hook it to the power and ground studs and let it do it's thing :victory: Here's an image of the hookup points. Red to 12V pwr stud and Black to Grd stud.

Platinum White Tri-Coat :camera:

These vehicle with continued battery problems all need to be checked for parasitic amperage draw problems.

Refund of your money and stop having them butcher your car................ :spend: