drdiesel1

Yep! When my ICE had 500 miles on it, I changed the oil. I never run the break-in oil past 500 miles on any of my vehicles. The Energi has a EV use readout, so I used it to determine the 500 mile point on my ICE. It was about 1500 or was it 1900 miles on the odometer.

I've been using 0W20 since my 500 ICE miles oil change. Using Royal Purple 0W20. My ICE make much less rattling noise than it did on the factory oil. I'm sure the break-in has a factor on noise levels too.

I would think the reset function would enable the system to calibrate itself to the replacement battery. That's what it was designed for ;) The capacity might be different, but voltage would be the primary signal that's monitored. Without knowing the systems design strategy, it's hard to tell :hat_tip:

The Hybrid is a US only vehicle. Euro Max is a petrol only vehicle.

Yes, you have......... You should have owned, American cars all along ;) Tell the knuckleheads to update your software and to properly charge the new battery after they install it.

Yes, you can use the power and ground studs in the engine compartment to charge the battery. It's the preferred method because it's easy to access and won't require you to dig into the battery storage compartment.

You should tell your dealer about this. It might help them solve the problem.

Make sure the replacement battery is properly charged. Stock batteries sit on a shelf and will be undercharged if it's not charged with the proper battery charger. You need to make sure it's done and not just lip service. Having a battery with a low SOC isn't good for it and it will shorten the lifespan. This is why, I have a battery charger with a micro processor. I charge mine every few months to keep it healthy.

Here's the S/W-ID number for Version 3.6.2

Could very well be "Exhaust Boom". At the right speeds and RPM's, the muffler/tailpipe can make sounds that can be heard inside the cabin. My wife's Toyota Matrix does it @ 70 mph and only at 70 mph.

Easy to install too :dance:

Have your dealer print you out both TSB's and the latest software in your vehicle. You'll be 100% positive if this applies to your car.

Get the answer from your dealer. Make them print you a copy of both TSB's. Read them and you'll know what needs to be done. Do you have records from the last time they worked on your car ? Did they give you proper documentation, or did you settle for something less than you should have been given ? If your documentation is in order, you'll know exactly what needs to be done after you read both TSB's. I'm always amazed how dealers get away with NOT providing proper records to the customer. You need to make sure this is done before you leave the dealers service department, EVERY TIME you have your vehicle in for repairs. Without it, you're as clueless as they are. It's up to you to make sure they provide you with all the proper information about your car. Not just some useless or meaningless drivel scrawled on your paperwork. Real and pertinent information about what was done and the CAL ID's that were updated. CAL ID's look like these. Make sure the update sheet shows this as well as the DATE.

Have your dealer PRINT both TSB's and give them to you. The TSB will tell you exactly what it's for, what needs to be done, and if it applies to your vehicle. Don't take anyone's word for anything. These dealers blow more smoke than the forestry department in LA. Also make sure that anything done to your car is well documented on your copy of the repair order. Any software updates should also include the ID numbers of the updated software. It looks like this (see image below) on the IDS and it can be printed for your records. Demand they give you proper documentation, every-time your car is worked on. It's your record of what was actually done. Without it, you're at the mercy of some clueless clown that spews garbage. Here's an update from the IDS. Documentation and more, documentation. Always insist on it or just let them have their way with you. It's your only hope, Luke :victory:

My Energi list for $25,500.00........ No way I would sell it. It it's nice to know I can get about what I paid for it :happy feet: less taxes, rebates, incentives and plates ;) It's a great car and I enjoy driving it. Way better than the turd Toyota, I owned for 90 days :spend:

They're made of high quality rubber. They fit perfectly and look great, IMO :happy feet:

I installed the factory mud guards on my C-Max. IMO, they're worth every penny and I would buy them again :wub2:

The Ford IDS scan tool can active the required configuration to setup a camera as long as you use the factory components. That would include the control module and camera. The dealer or anyone with an IDS can configure the system :camera:

Are you sure it's the ICE and not the A/C compressor ?

Both CVTe's are the same. The Energi has a 2.91 gear ratio and the external (aux) ATF pump. Ford makes these CVT's in house. They changed the gear ratio for the 2014 Hybrids to match the Energi's ratio for better mpg. Ford has also issued a TSB for CVT bearing noise related issue's caused by lack of ATF circulation on the Hybrids without the AUX, ATF pump, while running on the HVB.

Why do you insists to have this a private matter instead of an open forum discussion ?

Sync will run a automated maintenance function on it's own. It will display Sync maintenance on the screen. I've only noticed it on a power up in my car.

That's the best part about the C-Max. It has a lot of tech :happy feet:

:lol: Maybe a Scan Gauge-II would be something for you. I have one, but only use it for 12V battery readings plus HVB temp and SOC.

;)