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Everything posted by drdiesel1
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I would invest in a good charger. I've been using this $45 dollar charger for the last two years. It's foolproof and conditions the battery. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_10?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ship%20n%20shore%20speed%20charge%20ssc-1500a&sprefix=ship+n+sho%2Caps%2C773
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Maybe you should try a "Master Reset"
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Don't blame the car for the dealers inability to properly repair it. Most dealer techs are parts changers and they have a high guess rate.
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Don't forget to have the fan running while you spray the intakes, Read the can if you have any doubts about it's use.
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Yep! The updates change EV speed capability and add a quicker warm up for less fuel use before EV will start. I forget all the update changes, but they will help MPG numbers. You might not see great MPG's right after the updates due to a system reset, but it will get better.
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Anybody know how to keep the recycle air on?
drdiesel1 replied to zalusky's topic in Climate Control
HUH! ??????? It has a vent mode. The DOT mandates fresh air supply from the HVAC system. -
You have a common problem with A/C use. You'll need to treat it with the Frigi Fresh. The only way to avoid this problem is to turn off the A/C about 5 min. before you shut the car down. Just let the fan run without the A/C on before you arrive at your your destination. The condensation from A/C use needs to be dried before shutting the car down. Otherwise, you get a stinky smelling system like you have.
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The impact material recall is not applicable to vehicles with Pano Roofs.
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A big problem with all of today's vehicles comes from 12V battery issue's for older drivers. They don't use the car as much and without some type of battery maintenance, they have problems. Today's vehicles are computers with wheels. They rely on the 12V battery to maintain a memory for all control modules. The C-Max also uses networking for cloud communications. Having a small (390cca) battery will cause problems without having some type of battery maintainer if you don't drive the car regularly. It's not just the C-Max. I have seen this for years with Cadillac. Most caddy owners are older and don't drive much, so the batteries are always low and cause problems. It's a fact of life with all new cars and added loads will kill the battery that much faster when the battery is already low.
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The keyless entry combined with the auto headlamps are a great combination. I really enjoy not needing to push a button or turn on a light switch when using my car. It's the best thing since sliced bread :love_shower: The rear hatch button is slick too! My Prius C had two buttons. One to unlock/open the hatch and one to lock it. The C-Max will only unlock when the FOB is near the hatch. No need to lock it after you close it. Just close it and walk away :rockon:
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PSA: Check your 5-bulb LEDS
drdiesel1 replied to armoredsaint's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors & Wipers
Mine all work okay! Make sure you have the polarity correct, or they won't work at all :victory: -
If you're shopping a warranty, be sure it's the correct coverage. I wouldn't recommend anything other than Ford's ESP warranty. I wouldn't buy one with a deductible, either. Paying a deductible on top of the warranty is crazy, IMO. Don't buy the cheapest coverage or you'll find yourself without the coverage on the items you're most concerned about. Don't believe anything a salesman tells you either. READ the fine print and know what you're buying before signing on the dotted line and paying them a dime.
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Yep! MG1 is the actual starter motor for the ICE. It's also considered part of the hybrid system and should carry the 8/100k - 15/150K warranty!
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Yep! Thanks for catching it ;)
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Yeah! That's exactly what I meant to say :victory:
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No hybrids use conventional transmissions, but the eCVT is a transmission non the less.
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The Ford trans is very different to the Toyota design. Our MG1 is on a separate shaft from MG2. It's the main reason we have an 85 mph EV capable top speed. We also have the electronic downhill assist. IIRC, the trans can also lower ICE RPM's based on load and torque input data. The Energi models have an electric ATF pump for extended EV operation and high speed operation.
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That's not the charger you want to use to charge the C-Max. It works to get the car started, but it's not something you want to leave connected for charging. It sounds like it's not regulated and has no ability to auto shut-off. That's not good. It can do more harm than good. I wasn't talking about keeping in your vehicle to charge the battery. I was talking about using it about once a week while at home to charge. This should eliminate any possibility of having the dead battery syndrome. It's something you should consider until they have a 100% fix. I just updated my IDS software yesterday. Version # 87.01 was released on Oct. 2nd. I haven't found any new updates since the 1st Aug. release. I doubt the dealer will find anything, but you vehicle might have a new release available ? Mine is an Energi, so it's calibration set should have some minor differences for 12V charging system ???
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It's called an eCVT Electronic / Constant Variable Transmission. Some just call it a CVT
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If it's an AT/PZEV related component, the 8/100K or 15/150K applies. The OP's statement leads me to believe it's an MG1 problem.
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I'm pretty sure you need to be a registered resident too. Maybe if you had a second home or were a snobird ;)
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1st year models always have problems and most people understand this. Some don't and get excited when the car isn't working properly. If you heard something running in the back after powering off the car, remember to tell the dealer about it. It could be the cause of the problem and without telling them, they'll most likely miss it. It sounds like an intermittent fault with something staying powered on after shutdown. It's entirely possible that a relay could be sticking for the battery ventilation fan or the controller could have a problem. I haven't had a problem with mine, but I monitor my battery. I have charged it 4 times since I purchased the car. I've tested the battery also. It's tested good up to 600 CCA. It's only rated @ 390CCA. The DC/DC charging system seems to function properly, but my 12V battery will drop to a 50% SOC over a 2 to 3 week period. Having a battery remain in an undercharged state will shorten it's life and make is susceptible to sudden failure from intermittent system faults. The battery is already compromised by being at a lower state of charge (SOC) and any added voltage draw (load) can kill it if the vehicle isn't operated over a period of time. Because the 12V battery isn't used to start the vehicle as in a conventional car, you'll never notice it becoming discharged until it's dead and won't power the 12V systems. This is my main reason for monitoring and charging it. I know as a new car owner, it's not up to you to do this, but until they can find the cause of the problem(s) it might be in your best interest to get yourself a proper charger and do the same. It's a first year model and they always have bugs that need to be ironed out. The only way to make the car reliable is to regularly monitor and charge the battery to avoid the problem, until there's a solution. Here's the charger I have been using for the last two years. It's cheap and fool proof! http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC-1500A-SpeedCharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B000H961YI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380909790&sr=8-1&keywords=shipnshore+battery+charger I would also inform the dealer of this and make sure it's notated on your repair order as well. Don't let them know and let it slide without having proper documentation in "WRITING" on your R.O., if you choose to take my advise. Otherwise, you're eligible for the LEMON law action as long as you have documentation with 3 attempts to repair it. I won't be forcing any issue's at this time. I love my car and will wait to see what fixes become available. Charging my 12V battery every two weeks isn't a big deal. I charge my HVB every night :victory:
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The trans has an 8 yr. 100K mile warranty in all non CA emission controlled states. All states the follow the CA regulation will carry a 15 yr. 150K mile warranty coverage period. Here's the coverage charts.....