drdiesel1

Yeah! I didn't see it. My point is, it's not a linear readout and could get you in trouble without the ECT PID.

I went with the WeatherTech mats :love_shower:

The C-Max uses a control module to setup battery charging. It has a data input to properly charge the 12V battery. It will not automagically accept the second battery and keep the system properly charged. You might run into a problem without being able to properly setup for the added load. I don't know the limits of the systems input parameters, but you'll need an IDS to change anything.

I hate driving econoboxes. Most hybrids are econoboxes. They have a terrible ride. Very uncomfortable and the road noise is unbelievable. The overall size is small and makes me feel vulnerable in traffic. All my previous non hybrid cars were domestics and carried a price tag around 25K. They were all loaded with high trim levels. The average price over the years never changed much. I had 2 Prii and hated them. (see econobox above) The C-Max came along and changed all that. I only paid 28.5K for my 303A Energi and it's a pleasure to drive. The FE is just the icing on the cake. It's not always about payback for buying a hybrid car. Comfort and safety are more important to me. I get paid back when I sign the paperwork and enjoy saving as I drive it. :happy feet:

They do.

Read the page I posted from the owners manual. It's not abnormal operation.

Yes, but it isn't giving you a data PID with the actual temp readings in °F It's similar to an idiot light and you have no idea where 200°F is on that gauge ;) I don't think that gauge is linear either. You're asking for trouble without actual temperature info.

Anytime a defrost button is activated, the compressor will come on regardless of the previous setting. Defrost is any button with this symbol on it.

I think the OP is using the MAX DEFROST button to activate the system and this is why the AC compressor is staying on until he uses the controller to cycle the system to another setting that allows it to turn the compressor off :noobie:

Well, considering they call it DEFROST MODE........ I call it what it's actually known as and regardless of your misnomer, it's the same thing. Note the GREEN and RED sections from the owners manual. Also read the bottom line that's highlighted in GREEN!

Whenever you hit the defrost button, it will turn on the compressor. Then you need to turn it off with the AC off button. Are you stating it stays on after you turn it off with the AC button, after hitting the defrost mode ?

I don't have this problem. When I turn off the AC, on the controller, it turns off. I don't run my system in the recirculation mode, so maybe this is why you're having it stay on.

It helps to use the compressor, but it's a waste of EV and not required to defrost the windshield. Cars that don't have AC have no problem defrosting the windshield. It works a little quicker with the dehumidifying action.

Considering the tires on my car are stamped 51 PSI @ Max Load, 44 is low. Don't forget the rating has a safety margin too. It's not gonna have any problems @ 51 or they wouldn't rate it to that number.

New tire technology has changed a lot. Gone are the old bias ply tires that were balloons. Today's tires are designed with CAD technology. How do you think they get a PSI rated to 51 psi. I've been running 55 psi in mine since new (4K miles) and just bumped them up to 60. My tires are wearing even, smooth, anf flat. The car handles much better. I run 75 psi in my diesel pickup. It has 10 ply tires. They wear very flat and the truck handles way better. They're rated @ 80 psi, but that's a little harsh so I run 75 and it works great. The door label calls for 65 front and 80 rear @ max load. With the diesel engine, it's front heavy and 65 makes the tires roll on the wheel when turning hard. It wants to wonder on the mountain roads. The extra pressure makes it handle much better and the tires wear even without feathering the edges.

This is not true. You have it backwards.

DHA is controlled with the button. L is something I've never used, yet.

I wouldn't rely on the dash info for accurate info. Get a scan gauge or similar unit that reads the ECT PID :victory:

DHA only use the ICE, if, the HVB is full. Otherwise, it regens otherwise lost energy when driving downhill. I use it in combination with the ECO Cruise to keep a steady speed on the backroads. We have lots of hills :shift:

#1. Adjust the air pressure in your tires. These tires are rated to 51 PSI. Check them every month. #2. Don't haul unnecessary loads, #3 Take yourself out of the rat race and drive the speed limits. #4 Do a search for grill blocks. #5 Use the DHA when driving in areas with hills. Don't leave it on when driving on flat roads. #6 Use synthetic oil. 0W20. #7 Learn how to shut the ICE off when you're reaching the top of a hill and run in EV sooner than the CC will kick it off. The car will run in EV up to 85 MPH. Take full advantage. #8 Enjoy the learning curve and video game ;)

If you're drafting a tractor trailer, you're playing a deadly game. If you can't see their mirrors, they can't see you. ICC bumper standards still don't require the updated reinforcement to keep your vehicle from going under the trailer, if you do rearend one. If you're lucky, the trailer might be fitted with the voluntary updated version and it could save you.

No, it's not and you are still stuck believing it. Enjoy! Your generic information is as useless as your generic code reader.

Incorrect, again. Just not so and you just don't/won't/can't get it. An IPC com error won't cause an emissions related problem. Same with a trans shift indicator fault, but they can both cause the MIL/CEL to be activated. An ABS com fault with the PCM can do the same, but it won't cause an emission failure. You are misinformed and keep repeating the same misinformation, like it's some how gonna magically change. It won't and never will. Not all MIL/CEL activations are emissions related. Again, incorrect. If the cheap code reader can't read the code, how will it help anyone? I explained this already, but you still aren't able to accept the facts. If the crappy reader is blind to the DTC, it shows no codes stored, but the light is still on. WHY????? Because it can't read the DTC and is a useless POS!

Incorrect. Transmission faults can set the CEL. ABS faults, Module Communication faults, IPC faults can set the CEL. Shall I continue. The FACT is any module is capable of setting the CEL without it being an emissions related fault. Read this with your 10 dollar waste of money.

With the NRG, you can drive without using the ICE to work. Plug it in at work and drive back without using the ICE. I rarely use my ICE and have 4K miles on my 2014. I've added gas 3 times since July 3rd. I just filled it up for the 3rd time last night because it's down to $2.23 a gallon. You might consider the NRG for your 18 mile back road trip. I love driving EV all the time. It's the best way to get around and the NRG is best suited for your kind of use. If you're commute changes, the NRG will be the same as a hybrid after the EV charge is used up. I currently average 80 MPG combined with mine :happy feet: