mbedit

Laurel, The 2nd time Ford dug into my vehicle they found an abnormal spike that could be the reason for my battery getting drained, they worked and work very hard to try and fix that problem, but have not yet been successful. I wouldn't say I was assertive or "in their face" as much as just being proactive. The simple matter is that a new vehicle should not have to be jumped to started. At least not since in invention of the electric starter back in 1911! So, after buying a new car and having it behave that way, I instantly brought it in. The 2nd time I brought it in and Called the Ford Customer Service to start getting the issue escalated. Even after that, they have had my vehicle in the shop since the end of Nov. In NC, under the New Motor Vehicles Warranties Act, A vehicle that can't be repaired (for the same issue) in 4 tries, or is in the shop a cumulative of 20 or more business days (in a 12 month period) must be refunded or replaced. Ford has had my C-max in the shop more than 40 business days now, so I've given them much more time to get it fixed then I needed to. After the 30 days I requested the buyback.

Sure, during the conversation, the Ford Rep mentioned that some steps were missed, and I asked if he ment that there were some things they could have tried to do to repair it. I was told no, the FSE should have reported the length of time that the repair was taking much sooner than had already been done, and the implication was that it would have been escalated. I had several conversation today, so I can't remember if it was then or the follow up call that the rep mentioned that they wanted to find the root cause to fix the issue because other like issues had been reported. Ford has been very good about providing me a loaner, so I've had nothing out of pocket, and I won't have anything out of pocket while they fix it. I agree they will likely send the unit up to dearborn to get to the bottom of it anyhow. I actually have family in Detroit, so a more interesting thing then extra cash for me would be a plane ticket to Detroit to pick up the car and visit relatives when its fixed and then I could make sure it works before I drive it home, but basically, I would hope that getting the crack team there to go through it in detail would ensure no problems in the future. Getting a new one could put me back in square one. That would be disappointing. Ive got the weekend to mull it over. Either way they seem to be trying to do right, so I don't know I loose anything.

I had been posting in the other thread, but I'll update my status here. Ford has agreed to a buy back, and in fact has been very forthright and good about it, but they threw a bit of a curve at me today, and I must say I think its an interesting one. They asked if I'd be willing to have mine shipped back to Dearborn so that Ford can directly get involved, find the root cause and fix it once and for all. Earlier, they told me they believed that my incident was isolated, but apparently, after the data went through the buyback manager, they say that the FSE should have presented some info much earlier, and that they are now saying other customers issues may have a relation. I like the car, and would like it to work, so I'm actually considering this over taking an exchange at the moment. Ford has told me that they will still replace it in the event it can't be fixed even in Dearborn, and I really would hate to get another one, only to have it suffer the same problem. Ford has offered compensation for this, but honestly its not that much and thats not a huge issue for me, I think I would like them to fix it, and I guess, if they figure out the root cause and it fixes others that would be nice too. The down side is its likely to be a few more months, but the are putting me in a rental, and as long as I can get to / from work, then I'm fine. Bottom line is this is the first indication they may be giving of a relation between issues, and it may be a real step to solving the problem.

I never bothered with e-mail I went straight to the customer care center, and I've found them to be responsive. Typically they explain when they will contact me the next time, and if they don't get to me on the day they say they will, I call and they, have either picked up or promptly called me back. The thing to understand is its a process. As soon as I started having issues, I educated myself on the state/local laws of what my rights and recourses are, just in case things don't go well. Even though its frustrating and a dissapointment, you have to give Ford the oppertunity to fix the issue and make you whole, once they can't, only then can you exercise your right to a buyback/replacement. I've found that they seem to respond well to being level headed, asking questions and asking for a commitment and follow up. Yelling or ranting about things isn't going to advance your cause really, and in the end these are people that trying to do a job so you have to try and let them do it, but help them so you get your issue resolved. Thats why forms like this are important, so we can share ino with them to help them. Keep any and all documentation, and if you think you need to, talk to a lawer. Federal law says that, you as a consumer, don't have to pay a lawer for resolving warrrenty issues. The car company does, but the lawer won't take your case unless certain criteria are met, but they will educate you on what that criteria is. So either way the information is free.

I purchased mine at the end of Oct start of Nov. I had about 800 miles on it and the day before Thanksgiving, I came out to find it completely dead. I had it jumped and called the dealer, they did a load test and checked the battery, but did not find anything and and didn't replace the battery. The said don't leave accessories plugged into it and sent me on my way. a week later, it was dead again, this time they dug a bit deeper and claimed to have found a "spike" that was making an intermittent draw on the battery that could drain it. They replaced a module, and I think its the Body control module you mentioned, because they had to reprogram the keys and everything. When that didn't work they tore the car apart looking for the source of this electrical spike and eventually came back around and replaced the same module again. Apperently nothing worked. The 2nd time it happened I called the Ford rep and have been working with Ford as well as the Dealer. So when they started circling around and replacing parts they previously replaced, I said its time to either fix it or get me a new one. Plus they had it in the shop since the begining of Dec. so N. Carolina law requires a fix or replace to make the consumer whole after 20 buisness days, which it has been. I've been driving rental cars longer than I got to drive the C-Max, and they have shown that I really don't like much of Fords other lines as much! Anyhow, when presented with the option of the buyback I explained I did like the car but was concerned that this was a bigger issue, and the Ford rep said that he called other dealers (people who called and raiased a concern in thier system) to see if they were seeing this same type of electrical spike, and non of them reported that the issue was exactly the same. I know that an early poster reported that faultly instrument pannel was the culprit on his C-Max, and it is likely that there are several issues, one of which I think you've started to uncover Salman, which is that Hybrids in general are using smaller weaker batteries which may be more suspectible to damage when drained. Weight makes all the difference in these cars, so its understandable that they want to put the smallest, lightest battery in them to keep weight down, and I think if every person were having issues there would be larger outcry. Still it seems you roll the dice a bit with these, and since I like the vehical (when the battery doesn't get drained!) I decided to take another gamble. If I end up back in maintanence hell, I'll probably take a buyback the 2nd time and buy a Suburu Outback.

This sounds a bit like something they tried on mine. They replaced a module (twice) that required the keys to be re-programmed. All to no avail. As an updated, Ford initated the buyback/replacement of mine. Hopefully the replacement will work fine. When talking to the Ford Rep, he said he had cross refferenced other regions and dealers to see if anyone was experincing the exact issue mine was and they believe the battery issues are unique to each vehical. I really do like the vehical so I decided to give it another shot.

Dead 12V Twice SE basic, 200A . No electric hatchback. Standard radio, No NAV.

This has been the same for me. Works fine all day, park it overnight, in the morning its dead. I checked the voltage both times and it wasabout 5.5 VDC.

I really wish I had more information, but the service rep I've been dealing with basicaly admits its too technical for him to understand, so I can only share what I've been able to get out of them. Originally, they did all the normal load tests and battery tests, and they came out fine. This 2nd go around I believe they did a sustained test over night, and this is where they reported an intermitent spike. I assume by intermitent is random. Ford then replaced the Primary Computer, as they thought the spike was traced to that. It did not remove the spike they are tracking, so they have started digging through every ciricuit. To my understanding, the FSE has been in twice to help, and the delaer technicians are reling on the Ford service help line and FSE to guide them. The FSE seems to have an idea of what and how to trouble shoot, and the Dealer Techs try and collect data trying to isolate where this spike they are seeing is coming from. I haven't actually gotten any information as to exactly what system or subsytem they are tracking this spike through. Honestly, I think this "spike" may be chasing rainbows... my simplistic thinking of the really root problem is along these lines. Something causes the vehical to fail to turn off, and then the 12V battery is drained. Its still a defect, and there must be some common thread to the style, model or options of C-Max that are failing, which is why I'm wondering if its only SE models, or if people with an SEL have reported such a failure. My understanding is the SE has the key and the SEL use the start/stop button. Mine is a base model. nothing special, so I wonder if people with say, the upgraded stereo have experinced this.

What they are seeing on mine is some type of intermittent draw spike. They have literally ripped the entire thing apart trying to find the circuit causing this spike.

Called the Ford Customer Service to get an update from Ford, the Service Rep said that they got a second call linking the two now, so I'm assuming that was yours Salman, so thats the kind of traction needed to get the attention. Basically, the technicians at the dealer are stumped, but the regional FSE thinks they can locate and fix the problem. Hopefully, soon. I'm hoping that they find it fix it, and it solves similar issues others are having, In the mean time, I'm collecting paper work and talking to a lawyer.

More of an update. My C-max has been in the dealer shop for 3 weeks now, and it looks like it will be a full month with no resolution of the problem. They are seeing an intermittent spike, but have been unable to trace the actual source of it down. Ford has had a Service engineer down from Detroit Twice now, and even the FSE has said that if they run out of ideas they will sign off on a buyback. I never brought up the buy back, so I decided I need to find a Lemon Law Lawyer and get a consultation. I think I'm at the point that if they can't get the problem resolved after being in the shop for a month, its time to move on. If it makes any difference, mine was just a base model, using a key, w/no start/Stop button. I've heard that with a start/stop, if you forget to press the stop you can drain your battery, but I don't see how that can be the case with a keyed version. and as Valkraider says, be sure and call Ford to log the case, if they don't have the data, they don't think there is an issue.

An Update just as an FYI. The Ford dealer has spent a week now tearing through my C-Max, and they think they found a failed electrical module that was exhibiting an intermittent spike and leach on the electrical system, so they have ordered the the part and will replace the module and test to see that the spike has gone away. I'm optimistic that they dug in and really found the root cause on the second go around, and I have to believe that contacting Ford helped raise the concern and gave the dealer resources they needed to fix it. I probably won't get it back until next Tuesday, but I'd rather they really dig in and fix the problem.

So, I called Ford and logged the concern. Apparently they say there isn't a record of this concern being raised. So if other people are having this issue, be sure to call the Ford Customer service and raise the concern so it gets the proper awareness.

I agree valkraider. I like the C-Max, I really do. This is a bit of a downer, and I'm hopeful that ford will get to the actauly root of the problem and fix it. In the mean time they are making sure I have a vechical to drive at thier expense, but I'd rather have my car! I'll I can do is keep working the issue, which includes using sources like this forum to try and figure out whats going on. I guess Ford wants to take it in steps, but even the service manager at the dealer did not think that not plugging in acessories was a credible solution to the problem, but they apperently need to go on what the Service technicains they called for help at the Ford Corporate office say... So now with that solution debunked maybe they will get more serrious. If my local dealer can't fix it, I'd honestly have no problems with them shipping back to the mother plant to get it repaired... but that seems unlikely. Need to play the game and keep records... in NC if they can't fix teh defect after 4 attempts, I can lemon law it. I'd hate to do that, but I also can't be calling for roadside assitance every other week to jump it.

Well, everything did seem normal after the jump. Both times now... though I can't recall specifically looking for or seeing a low battery level when the roadside applied the jump to it. I suspect they will send me packing again, in which case I should probably plan to take some digital snaps of the panel when it starts on the jump next time, so I can provide more info to help the technicians solve the problem. I have a difficult time believing that leaving an iPod plugged in or pressing the Brake would cause the battery to mysteriously drain. Both times I've put a DVM on the 12VDC Battery and it has read 5.5VDC. The idea that there is an electrical short causing the problem makes more sense.

Woke up this morning to a dead battery. Again. This is the 2nd time now. The 1st go Ford came back and said to make sure no accessories are left plugged in, which I was doing, so thats not it. Also, Had been making sure I don't press on the parking brake as mentioned above... so I'm pretty sure thats not the issue. I have to take a bit of that concept with some skepticism I think. A "Saving Mode" would imply to me that its actually trying to save the battery, and, in fact the battery-save mode is differentiated from "normal hybrid mode where the powertrain blends electric and gasoline engine power as appropriate ("EV Auto" setting); [to] a battery-saving mode that reserves the battery power for later use ("EV Later" setting)." Which tells me that it should drive more on the gas engine, and not use the battery. Any how, the night before, something smelled like electrical shorting/burning, and I think in fact that something in the instrument panel is causing a short and draining the battery, which would be consistent with another poster who said they actually found an electrical issue. The good news was the Ford Roadside assistance was prompt, and the car started after a jump, and I took it back to the dealer, and they are going to try and dig deeper... I hope.

I had a similar experince as the OP. My miliage seemed sporadic through the break-in period, but once I put 1000 miles on it, I took it on a road trip to see how it performed. I drove it 400 miles, and got an average MPG of 40. The Road had a nice differentials of speeds, from 35 MPG to 70 MPG. From Observing the fuel mpg, it seems the that at higher speeds, 70 MPG, the milage drops pretty significantly, around 36 MPG, but when I had to slow down, or even stop, I started using the push and glide method the OP talks about, and the MPG shot way up to between 47 and 50 MPG. In fact, I had an appointment once I got back from my road test, and after refueling and driving through town and back it reported 49 MPG on a 20 mile round trip. On the road, the sweet spot seemed to be between 60 and 65 MPG, as the EV seemed to be able to charge and provided enough kick to assist and the MPG appeared to be around 40 MPG, once I Picked it up to 70+ as mentioned the miliage did seem to drop another 4 to 5 MPG. I purchased the vehical hoping to average 38 to 40 MPG, and once hrough the break-in period it seems on course to deliver. Getting the 49 MPG on a town trip actually exceeeded my expectations. I've tried both 87 and 94 octane gas, and don't see any difference between them, so I think I'm just throwning money away with the 94. The biggest difference, as the manual says, is how much ethenol is in the blend. One thing that still has me confused, is everytime I've fueled up, the amount of fuel hasn't matched what the computer reports was expended. If some times it were over and others under that would make sense to me, but the c-max amount has always been under by about 1/2 a gal to the reported amount pumped... which makes me wonder wheres the extra 1/2 gal of gas going? I plan to refuel at teh same station / pump several times to eliminate variables that could simply be pump, or grade at teh station.

That may be good info aschofer... I will pay good attention to that procedure. thanks.

Well I had my iPod Connected for several weeks actually w/o any issue. I slapped a DVM on the battery when it was dead and it was only pushing ~5VDC. According to the Users manual, the vehical does supply current to the USB for 10 min after the ignition is turned off. Still... 10 min a couple times a day seems excessive to drain a battery. I fully expect to find it drained again, even after following the reccomendations. I should add... the real issue, as reported, is that if the vehical fails to go into "Sleep Mode" teh USB and other outlets will continue to charge/runn acessories and this is what they think drained the battery.

So, I'm joining the legions who have woke up to a dead battery on my new C-Max. I called the roadside assitance, and they promptly came out jumpped it with-in 30 min, but I thought it odd and suspected a defective battery so I called the dealer and took it in. They poured over it and called in for tech help, but ultimetly said there wasn't anything wrong with it and reccommended not plugging in accessories to the USB, 12V or inverter when the vehical isn't being operated. I expressed some disbelif at that suggestion and, in fact, if my iPod being plugged into to the USB port can Kill the car, I told them thats a pretty big design flaw as far as I was concerned. Even the Ford Service manager seemed to agree and said he didn't know how they could stand behind that solution. I can't help but think there is an issue like other members have reported that is slow draining the battery.