MichaelM

If you have the proximity sensors in the rear bumper, dirt on them or accidently walking into their sensing field can tell the hatch to stop closing. Sometimes I'll do the kick to close then walk too close to the bumper and have to do it again. During the winter especially, snow and road crud blocks the sensors and either triggers the alarm every time I slow to <5 mph or wont let the hatch open thinking someone is too close. I clean them and then no problem.

I have a daughter that drives that way there is no coasting or Pulse/glide. Its all gas or all brake, all the time.

I bought a jack similar to this one, but I can't remember where. It was out of a mail order catalog. I have used it on my wifes Pontiac Solstice (which sits very low to the ground). It raised the tire easily for removal and came with a carry case. I'm not at home so can't give you the measurements but it is about the same size as my Craftsman ratchet set. http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Scissor-Jack-Auto-Lift/dp/B0046C60B6#productDetails

I had a problem with using the switch on the inside of the doors because of my Intellegent Access key fob. Not having one before and always using the button on the inside of the door I did it the same way with the new car. But, the Intellegent Access sensed the key fob in my pocket as still being inside the car when I closed the door, so it unlocked them. I only realized this because I heard the click of the unlock right after closing the door. Had to scratch my head a bit (and ask my first question here) before the cause was figured out. So, I quit using the button on the inside of the door and haven't had this 'magic' unlocking happen since. C-MaxSea is also right, I have taken to watching the mirror turn indicator to verify as it blinks when locking the door using the black touch sensor.

On my Focus I peeled the dealer sticker off immediately after sale. After taking it in 3 or 4 months later for an oil change there was a brand new sticker where the old one used to be. When I complained they said it was part of their agreement for the $9.95 oil change. I told them I wanted the sticker gone as there was not one there originally and they did, and charged me $26.95 for the oil change. I've not been back.

The two black rails do indeed cover the 'ditch' seam between the roof panel and the bodyside assembly. There is no solid attatchment point under them.

I have to agree with @kostby here, I have been yelled at more than once by my wife for wasting time in the parking lot talking with someone who asked about the C-Max and how I like it. What are some of the features? How is the mileage, the ride, the noise?....Yada, Yada Yada. My problem is I like the car so much, I answer them.

I was told by one huge area dealer, and made to sign an acknowledgement, that when bringing my new car in for service that there would be no loaners available but cars could be rented. I had already bought that car, but I never took it in there for service (warranty or otherwise), and have not bought another from them in ten years. Bought my C-Max from a local dealer. They have given me a loaner any time my car is going to be there over 4 hours. I have bought 3 cars from them in ten years. You are not obligated to have your car serviced by the selling dealer. Find the Ford dealer that wants your business. Ford grants the dealer a right to sell their product, but each is independantly owned and there is a vast difference between dealers. IMHO

@Adair, I travel that route twice a day every day from the Irish Hills to Wayne, but I'm usually in my quiet world (the CMax helps). If it was my Ice Storm that passed and I missed the wave , I apologize. I try to acknowledge others, but it really depends what song is playing at the time...

Brother Mike, I have noticed the same thing on my SEL. It wasn't a huge increase but I went (since the temp increased) from 43-47MPG for the 60 mile trip in to work each day to regularly seeing 47-50. The trip is mostly rolling hills with stretches of slight up or down grades, nothing that should trip any of the accelerometers. But, with that being said I noticed the numbers increase along with a much closer fuel used number than before, says (11.7 GAL used, pumped in 11.37) Not sure why, but I'm leaving it on until somebody tells me it will hurt my car

@DaveofDurham sorry, I think of these as separate entities, they must replace seatback frames and reuse upolstery and internal components (i.e. heater, airbags, lumbar support etc..) It's like a 14 page procedure.

@DaveofDurham it involves the seat frame and requires replacement.

It seems that the FSA was issued to authorize the updating to v3.6 of the MFT software reardless of the current version on the vehicle. Making sure that the cost was covered under the warranty. Validating the MyFordTouch/MyLincolnTouch v3.6 software level from the Vehicle Touch-screen:  Press the Gear Icon > Help button > System Information  Look for the 5-digit number after CCPU S/W Version to identify the software on the vehicle.  Number 13171 indicates v3.6 software has been installed. Customer Satisfaction Program 12M02 - Supplement #1: Applies to eligible sold customer vehicles outside of the bumper-to-bumper warranty. The 12M02 warranty extension covers Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM) Hardware replacement for failed modules and includes software updates.

There is an I-Pad app that simulates the MFT display I have used it to double check keystrokes to different functions in the living room before I try them out in the car. Its not perfect and doesn't go as deep as it would if I was in charge. But it may help to determine how you would find particular info. The MyFord Touch Guide app is currently available in English, Canadian French, and Mexican Spanish languages. It supports Apple iOS 4, 5, 6, and 7 and Android Froyo 2.2, Gingerbread 2.3x, Honeycomb 3.x, Ice Cream Sandwich 4.0, and Jelly Bean 4.1+. To download the MyFord Touch Guide app, visit the App Store or Google Play.43

+1 for Obob

Hi Bob, Has the dealer told you anything about the service history that he can see from his company records?

@Laurel, for a 'select' package Sirius charges $165/year (without any negotiating. YMMV). That figures to just about 3 1/3 years for payback of purchase. If you move it to even one other car you're free and clear @ four years. The reason I originally went with Sirius is that they had the lifetime option and I haven't paid for a monthly fee on that subscription since 2004. I do however have a second subscription on my C-Max. I get a discount for having another sub and for yearly payment.

I may be remembering incorrectly, but weren't most of the C-Max Battery issues on SE models? I tried to research before I said anything but those dead battery posts are very long. Though all of the people that I saw who posted with battery issues were, indeed, SE's.

I have a similar issue with my 2004 Thunderbird. The battery is in the trunk under a removeable floor cover. There is no keyhole in the trunk itself. If the battery goes dead the trunk will not release. So they put a key operated access point inside the passenger compartment, behind the drivers seat. It is mechanical and doesn't require power. The key will open the door, but the window drop function doesn't work if there is no power, so it sounds and feels like you could break the window by opening the door.

The only downside of the lifetime subscription is that you can only transfer it 3 times, according to Sirius (@ $75 a pop). I thought of moving my lifetime to the C-Max but I'm not sure I won't have more than 2 more new cars in the future. I have the lifetime script. on a Stiletto portable that has mounts in the boat, the T-Bird, and a Boom box.

The Car is definitely a U.S. Michigan made C-Max. It could have been a call made at the factory on an early production car to use an on hand badge when the correct one was not available. I can't imagine that call being made, but it's also missing the HYBRID badge that should be right below the SEL. The first few 'For Sale to Public' vehicles are usually gone over by the greatest number of eyes and not much makes it through that is not correct. Not sure why, But your VIN shows as an incorrect VIN through CarFax website. Mine shows with a report and my production date is 7/24/2012 just one month after yours and only 491 between them. I tried your VIN a couple of times at CarFax with the same result. I see that you bought the car off lease there may be info from the dealer or that @FordService can find that will clear this up. As @Brother Mike and @C-MaxSea suggested, could there have been an accident from the lease owner or at the dealer involving the hatch door? If so you should be made aware of it. rfaunce, if you can pm me with email add.

@Fotomoto, my HTC One has a similar issue with reading texts in that it just stops reading them at random times. To get it to recognize them again I have to disconnect, then forget the connection, then reconnect. It will work then until it doesn't. Lather, rinse, repeat. So it's not just an Apple issue, but probably Microsoft or MFT.

Not saying that this is part of anyone's difficulty with the unlock/lock function of the FOB. But in my case I noticed that the unlock function appeared inconsistent when attempting to enter the car. I would ususally use my right hand to reach into the handle, sometimes it would unlock others it would not. I read in the manual that the FOB must be within 3 feet of the car for the auto unlock to work. I'm a little wider than probably most operators, and noticed that sometimes the FOB would be in my right pants pocket, sometimes the left. This led me to try repositioniong my body when the unlock function would not work. Surprisingly each time then, the door would unlock. I noticed this sometimes occurred also with the kick/opening of the hatchback. Just in case it was a strength of signal issue, I replaced the battery in the FOB, and have had no issues since. Perhaps on the wavy edge of the sensing field with less than optimal signal strength. I don't know, I'm just sayin'

OMG. NO!

I got a request to go to the J.D. Power website to fill out customer satisfaction survey. Got to first page where I filled out make and model, then the page froze and kicked me out. When I went back to try and finish the survey, it said 'You have already completed this survey'. Not quite sure how that scored. I wrote to J.D. Powers and told them, if there were more people than me who have had the same problem, that the veracity of their survey was questionable.