dmk2000

I have a similar issue with noise. Now I am thinking that if you taped microphones, but it did not fixed issue, than could it be that these mics picked resonance off head liner, or roof? Would better physical isolation of these mics from headliner would eliminate this noise? Just a thought.

Interesting. Thank you for this info. Let me see into it.

Frank. I am agree with you when it comes to a poorly done conversions. The HID kit I am trying to install is 3000K light, which is what OEM has and it is on a yellow side. From experience, right HID's with proper beam do improve driving visibility. Personally, I am blinded more by drivers with a high beams on due to bad performance of their low beam headlights rather then HID equipped cars.

That is what I am thinking as well. The problem I am afraid would be trying to explain Ford technician, why this car has an additional wire harness. Also due to my car been having 3 dead battery issues, I am afraid they will void warranty. At this point I am not changing light bulbs, and will keep OEM setup as is. That said, I will make an appointment with a dealer ( time permitted) to let them check this issue. The reason I want to go with HID, is not to be cool, but to actually improve low beam headlights performance. OEM's are too dull for me to feel comfortable.

Thanks for a reply. It does not have DRL as an option.

With lights switch in off position voltage would be 0 on low beam lights. System voltage is 13.6 V.

Interesting theory. I can tell you when I had one bulb OEM and other bulb HID, OEM worked but HID did not. HID voltage was 8.6. I could not test voltage on OEM bulb at the same time as it was connected and on. That said, does BCM also controls low beam lights voltage when car in ACC mode because in ACC mode, HID works perfectly.

I did that. OEM light is on and HID is off. It is a voltage thing. For HID to work, ballast must have minimal voltage supplied to it. If voltage is too low, no arch will be produced to create plasma in HID light to work. I wonder if someone had a reading on operating voltage of headlights during ready to drive mode of the car.

Hello everyone. This Thanksgiving weekend I was trying to improve 2013 Cmax SEL headlights output power. I got HID kit and was installing it. What I noticed is a very strange thing. After installing these lights ( low beam H11) when car in Accessories (ACC) state they work beautifully. However when car in a drive ready state, these lights do not work. After trouble shooting this issue I have noticed interesting thing. When car in ACC mode, the voltage on lights is 12.5 V. However, when car in Drive mode, I only getting 8.6 V. Is it normal? Can anyone confirm this. Thank you.

I once raced with Prius from a red light. He had no chance. it was fun, safe fun since maximum speed was no more then 55 miles per hour on 55 miles per hour speed limit highway.

Paul. That is what I do every week. I do it because of desperation, and not from a joy of owning trouble free brand new car. In my mind this is not how new car experience should be, and I do not recall it been that bad with my other new car purchases. Maxy, good luck with your buy back. Please keep us informed on how this process going.

Very good point.

+1. The problem is it is a pain in the butt to disconnect + terminal from the battery. I hope there is a easy accessible fuse somewhere to achieve this.

I had this one: http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP400-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIDD2Q/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1VW8M5ZK2V9TCATPD4HV it is 400 A.

In my case, mid size jumper battery was not able to revive CMAX. Prolonged charging of 12 V battery at 8A (40 min) did a trick. After this incident, I view jumper battery not as reliable solution as I was hopping it to be.

Rotating might not be helpful if mechanism is fully enclosed. It could have dislodged it, but it would still be inside housing and might do more damage bouncing in there. I guess visual inspection is a better approach.

Not sure "Bonus Bolt" inside gear shifting mechanism is part of "growing Pains" of a new car model. There was no place for bolt of this size to be used in that area. I personally think it is a sloppy workmanship or "do not Care" attitude. One glance at that area could reviled rouge bolt. Mechanic spotted it right away.

Well. Here is an update to ongoing transmission problem. two weeks ago, I had same transmission problem when trying to place transmission into park, it gets lucked up. This time battery was good and fully charged. Ford towed car to the dealer, and they where able to diagnose this problem to a faulty range finder sensor. In order to replace it, engine and transmission must be removed from the car as a single unit, and only then decoupled from each other in order to replace this sensor. Today I picked up car fro the shop. Here is a final story. After gaining access to the back of the transmission, technician found a bolt that was wedged inside gear shifting mechanism. Dealer called ford engineering hot line to get an idea where this bolt come from, since they could not fined a place for it. Ford could not answer. So technician proceeded with a replacement of the sensor, even thou now it looks like a rouge bolt was a reason for transmission getting stuck near parking gear. So far it shfts well. How the heck rouge bolt could endup there, and does assembly line have Quality Control? Also, I was able to verify that this car was assembled on Monday morning. I guess it does makes a difference what day of the week car is assembled.

If bigger battery is a solution, I think it cost Ford a lot less to replace them, then keep paying dealerships for warranty repairs and rentals. Also by unable to fix 12 V battery root cause, Ford reputation is continually suffering at least in hybrid market. So from marketing and Brand prospective, if larger 12 V battery was a final fix for our 12 v problems, they would done it by now. Also, as Adrian_L said, 2014 models would already had this fixed implemented. Then again, big corporations sometimes live in different universe, who knows.

Paul. If it was, I almost positive that ford would recommend this change to cure 12 v battery issues.

I wish. 3 problems on 2600 miles new car withing one and a half month. You see, I could have used electric liftfork battery, if trunk was a size of pickup truck bed :) Tomorrow I am dropping car to the dealer and told him he has one week to do what needs to be done.

Ptjones. I wish jumper battery was a solution. In my case mid size jumper battery was not able to resurrect my CMAX battery to the point when car would start. Only thing that helped was 20A charging for one hour. And I have 2013 SEL made on May 13 2013. (13 is actually my lucky #).

You could be right. However, when I plug charger to the front power points it does indeed charges battery. Test battery on the next day shows 12.5 V with car in off position. Puzzle.

Hi Drdiesel1. I do have it, and use it on weekly bases. I just do not want to do it, I want Ford to fix it once and for all....

Perhaps it would take a long time to charge 12 V dead battery, but in my case car was able to start on its own without any observable issues, and then been driven for 40 minutes. But from looks of it, the condition of battery got worst after 40 minutes of charging. Very odd.