jestevens

Sync 2 also somewhat supports CarPlay, but only through the voice button on the steering wheel (audio only talking to Siri) .. I was able to download the last version of Sync 2 and upgrade via USB stick. To upgrade from Sync 2 to Sync 3 is somewhat more involved with some hardware swaps, some antenna placement, USB hub swap, etc. ?

I've got about 146K on my 2013 Hybrid and the transmission is still fine so far .. fluid changed at 100K with no issues. I've recently changed from mostly back road driving to mostly highway so we'll see. The vehicle has been pretty reliable with just basic service -- oil changes, 12V battery, coolant and spark plug change around 80-100K I think? It had a bad reputation to start with because of overstating the MPG for sales purposes and the battery drain issue. (I'll never forget when I drove past the Chevy dealer and for a short time they had a big sign advertising their Colorado pickups getting 60MPG?? .. like you can't compete, so just lie right?) I never did experience battery drain issue with my SEL, but a few times the amp has hung up, requiring pulling the fuse to get audio back .. one time the APIM hung while I was on a long trip and it ended up resetting itself after some responsiveness timer probably elapsed. Sync 2 seems to have issues keeping track of which CD track is playing, the LED ambient light for the driver's side turns blue instead of the selected RED color when you open the door after turning the car off, sometimes the car alarm goes off if you are too quick opening the back drivers door after unlocking the doors? That's a pretty comprehensive list of things I've had go wrong, but at least no MAJOR problems yet .. most of them are just nuisance issues. I remember being able to open the hood and change the headlight bulb in my Cavalier within 30 seconds -- that doesn't seem to happen anymore because of service shop $$$ needs.

I've never heard of a "lifetime" engine air filter before .. apart from the ones K&N makes that are "washable" .. the internal combustion engine in the C-MAX is not "magic" .. I remember the dealer shop guy look at me strangely when I questioned him replacing it at 60,000 miles but I think he made the right call.

Engineers say "Oh, this part only needs replaced every seven years so" -- to replace the battery in my Prius from the trunk you had to remove a bunch of ductwork and a brake controller .. headlights -- in my HHR you literally had to turn the wheel to one side, undo the clips from the wheel wheel, reach up from behind the wheel well and then change the headlight from under the car. The Prius headlights -- to do by Toyota spec you had to remove and replace the front bumper, $300 .. I found the part on Amazon for $80 per xenon bulb and very carefully replaced them with teeny hands and a compact mirror. Even the CMAX you have to peel up the HVAC cowling, pop some push pins near the radiator and wrench a bit on the headlight assembly to get it to pivot to the point where it's easy access, depending on which headlight you want to replace. My '94 Cavalier? You could open the hood and replace a headlight bulb in about 30 secs.

I'm sorry I don't have access to the tech specs, I hope a tech can help you but with any luck a water pump should still be the same diagnosis as usual anyway.

My 2013 is still good at 137K but I've changed driving styles to highway now, so I guess we'll see..

Based on some google searching these codes sound like water pump issues? Can you check the fuse, wire and connections to the water pump?

We have an escape hybrid at work. It seems like a fine vehicle, fairly quiet .. I don't know if it still uses the HF35 or not but the shifting is non existent so it must be SOME sort of CVT. Even so my next car is likely to a Toyota hybrid, Bolt or VW ID Buzz (if I win the lottery).

One time I had a leaf stuck in the lower grill and it made a really weird, concerning noise. One time I thought it was a wheel bearing ended up being bad tire. Another post on here had the TSB instructions for diagnosing HF35 replacement including very particular info about when the transmission makes noise and when it doesn't.

I just had to pull my fuse for the amp going out again last week, and once last month. I'm not sure there's every any rationale.

Hmmm. I would have thought maybe something with transmission but if the car is expecting to be able to switch to HV or regen and all the sudden there is a fault then maybe it makes sense.

Hybrids work best with low rolling resistance tires -- although a few of the ones I've bought over the years seem to start at 7/10" tread so you're paying a lot and getting less tire? That formulation makes it easy to get up to speed and then be able to coast around town. If the tires are too sticky then you aren't going to be able to coast on electric only and save gas. I've used Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max tires, Bridgestone Ecopia EP422 Plus and Pirelli Cinturato P7 I would recommend the Goodyears again -- or the Ecopia tire if you can find them (although they seemed noisier). Currently I am using the plain Goodyear Assurance tires WITHOUT the fuel max -- which ARE stickier than usual, and do cause the car's drivetrain to shudder with sudden stops .. That's what the dealership had in stock that day and I thought maybe they would eventually wear down to 7/10 anyway. There is a slight hit on MPG.

It's normal for the car to get less mileage the more you use the heater or the colder it gets. The hybrid battery pack is much smaller than the Energi pack. It definitely seems like a mistake to me, I would ask to undo the deal or ask the battery place if they would consider doing a swap at a discount. I am surprised you can get 10mi out of the pack though because the hybrid pack is significantly smaller capacity. Perhaps the battery you have is somehow a blend of the two parts. Still doesn't seem to be programmed to match the car..

Yeah, that's not normal -- I would take it to the dealer to diagnose sooner rather than later before you have a serious problem on the road. If it is expecting power to be there from the hybrid system and it's been disabled, either because of the HV battery or transmission malfunction ..

I mean, bad brake switch input or a wonky speed sensor could do this probably .. the car would rather shut down than cause a collision. Do you hear any mechanical clunking when you step on brakes? The engine stops and starts normally? Just guesses without a code scan.