Madmax98

Was/is the defective TCU (cell phone modem) covered under any recall? Do you think the draining corresponded with some defective attempt to connect to Sync/ my ford mobile systems? I've got a trickle charger, what is make/model of a de-sulfating charger? @plus3 golfer - During most of my tests where voltage drain began, I was stopping the drain at 9ish Volts (1-2 minutes), just so that I could start engine without jump start. If I didn't stop at 9ish, DRL would stay on even after other gear/displays shut down, and eventually (within 5 minutes) DRL start flickering and would completely kill battery to point of not being able to start without external jump start.

15B04 didn't show up for my VIN on lookup nor on login ;(

Hard to believe the Xtreme's don't also throw more light than the stock bulbs... I didn't take the time to test both, but I am concerned that the Phillps 921 didn't really 'pop' or even stick tightly in to the sockets. I'm a little concerned they might shake loose over time, no? I didn't want to push them any harder than I tried pushing from the bottom sides. .....I had similar thought on the visor, but I would confer with whoever you know who might be using the vanity mirrors for makeup, lipstick, etc, whether incandescent is in fact preferable to LED just for the visor light....;) what's the dashcam going to shoot, a backup camera? facing forward

Well, I found a 'somewhat' repeatable way to kill my battery, but I don't know if it means my battery is bad or whether a system problem killed the battery, or whether a new battery will just get killed prematurely again due to some system problem. This is 2013 Cmax Energi with DRL (daytime running lights) option, no Nav. Not sure how to find the build date? Start with a reasonably fresh 12V battery charge (by driving around the block or at least revving engine, go into reverse and forward, back to Park, but EV battery should be drained so only drive mode option is AUTO. 1) Get in Car with Key. 2) Don't put foot on brake pedal 3) Lights are on full OFF position (All the way left or position 1 out of 4 position switch). 4) Hit Start button 'Accessory mode' starts, turns on DRL, radio, bluetooth, Touch screen, etc. Wait between 1 and 2 minutes and battery will start dropping voltage until tries to go into battery save mode, but DRL stay on which finally kills battery within 2 or 3 minutes. Many times I could see voltage start dropping at 30 second mark, display goes dark at 1 minute, battery completely dead within 3 minutes as DRL go through a flicker mode while battery drained. I was able to kill the battery like this about 3 out of 5 times I tried the same exact steps. Sometimes, however, it seemed like it could last much longer, like 5 or 10 minutes before I gave up which is the most puzzling /frustrating part. If you hold down LEFT OK button on steering wheel and keep holding for 10 seconds after hitting the start button in step 4 above, you can get into diagnostic mode and hit LEFT side up arrow 5 times to get to battery voltage screen and watch it drop. You can also hear the subtle electronics hum drop in tone as battery dies if you are in quiet environment, windows up. I can understand that 'normally', users would not start up in accessory mode and just sit in the car for more than a minute before driving, so maybe there is some reason that battery starts draining quickly if car is trying to go into some kind of battery save mode, but failing perhaps since battery save mode was not designed or expecting the DRL option? Even so, 2 minutes seems awfully and unnaturally short time to kill battery. If I hit start/end button once after driving, the car is waiting for you to open door and get out of car, but if I stay in car, lights seem to turn off by themselves before killing battery, which is nice to know assuming consistent. I was hoping that perhaps the car would save the battery better when lights are on 'Automatic' setting - all the way right or position 4 in my 4 position switch, but I was able to kill the car in that switch setting as well. Most times when I killed battery, I stopped around 9.5 volts. Then I started car with engine by holding foot on brake with start button which seemed to charge battery right away back up to the 12.8 starting point. Any other thoughts that this could really just be a bad 2 year old battery (which by the way are not yet sold as replacement parts by anyone around here). I may ask if Ford will at least give me a new Motorcraft battery from a the dealer to try out if they won't cover the labor too... Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice.

Wow, dealer tells me my VIN is NOT covered by this CSP. Gotta wonder why not. by Manufacture date? or the reprogram power train control module already done in a different recall?

Just reading about what appears to be a new CSP 15B04 in another thread. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5091-customer-satisfaction-program-15b04/ Is this work that Ford will pay for? Does car still need to be under warranty (under 80K miles)? As my luck would have it, my VIN is NOT covered under this CSP for some reason.... arghh! Left car overnight in garage, didn't connect to EV wall charger. I did unplug a USB charger that has a blue led that stays lit when car off. can't believe this draws enough to drain battery at all, but will eliminate from the possibilities for kicks. Started up this AM, drove across town in AM, parked with DRL on, futzed around testing onboard voltage readout, looking for chafing in between body and door (though this doesn't seem to be where chafing reported in that TSP 14-0155 appears to be inside the body. Voltage this AM seems ok bouncing between 12.7 and 12.8 (not sure if this really indicates a drain on current anywhere however). Going to have to just wait and see if it happens again.

Is 15B04 a recall that Ford will pay for? Does car still need to be under warranty (under 80K miles)?

Thanx! I should have measured first, but I'm pretty sure are 'shorty's'. So did you do the puddle lights also? With what bulbs - white 194 like what you show above ? have to take mirror off or can be done from bottom? I just bit the bullet with a little help with 35% off online orders over $75 from pep boys and got Xtreme Vision 921LED 6000K white for the reverse bulbs. Been dealing with dead battery issue instead, see other threads...;( Hope it's not from the still ghosting center brake light led's...., haven't put the resistor in line yet, but I'd think that'd just draw more current if anything, wouldn't it?

I am having dead battery issues on my 2013 Cmax Energi. purchased used 5/5/15 with about 90K miles on it. Dealer jump started it when I first test drove car. First time it died, I may have left the car on (did double honk when I tried to lock doors, left car for 30 minutes when parked and car may have been in EV only mode for previous 2 days. (Not clear to me if engine needs to run to charge the 12V LVB?) Some posts imply charging is done from main hybrid battery rather than traditional alternator? 2nd time Died this morning in driveway after wife drove earlier without incident but had been charging eV overnight. After jump start, drove around the block a couple times, died again within 10 minutes after parking it. Jumped a 3rd time, started up, but then died again when trying to start car. Took battery out (lot of work!), took to Sears, they put on their machine which declared the battery as dead after charging for an hour. Took battery immediately to Advance Auto parts who shows battery as good, CCA a little low like 350 CCA instead of 390CCA rating, but overall battery report shows as good. Not sure which test to believe at this point, but it's possible that all the charging done on the Sears machine made battery look better to the Advance Auto machine. I took it to local Ford Dealer first week after purchase where they supposedly did all recall work,but not clear if they did any TSP 14-0155 stuff. Will Ford pay the dealer for the TSP 14-0155 work? I put the battery back in but didn't put completely back together yet, to make it easier to take out again if needed. I have been replacing some bulbs with LED's, but find it hard to believe that would kill battery - they should draw less current than old bulbs. I will leave overnight without charging with wall charger to see if that is why hasn't been dying more often....

The Maxpider do look nice, found them on Amazon, still $160. Weathertech support confirmed that 2013 Escape and Cmax are exactly the same spec size. It still looks like the Maxpider might go farther up dead pedal than Weathertech, but still not as far as Husky. Maxpider available in Grey, where Husky only in Black and Tan. You Maxpider owners fell like the left foot dead pedal is covered enough with the Maxpider mat? Anybody Seen the Maxpider anywhere cheaper, coupons, etc?

What is maximum length of Amber side mirror turn signal replacement bulb? Likewise for Amber Side Marker bulb? Looks like might be limited to the 1" length of existing incandescents? Also, prying the mirror off to change bulbs is high risk of breaking mirror by bending plastic housing for mirror while prying off. Even these pros are filming on a unit that already has broken mirror, looks like you've got to be very careful not to pry/bend too much. http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Ford_C-Max_Hybrid_SEL_2.0L_4_Cyl./lights/turn_signal_front

Ahh, OK, thanks again!

I have 2 weeks with a 2013 Energi. Car is very cool, I'd be pretty confident of getting 40Mpg with regular Cmax. Dealer chose to jump battery the 12v battery first time I went to test drive at an indy lot in Chicago. I can tell you that another dealer had one with 40K miles which was declared 'lemon' title,but no detailed reason shared, although a replacement battery was in the carfacts. These guys were still asking like $19 for it or something crazy, claiming they could still sell it to auction houses... 3rd party 'independent' Ford Dealer Mechanic thought my battery was 'OK' , taking a charge, noticed some slight corrosion near contacts on battery back under trunk, and it's possible it's been weakened from time at dealer lot. I also managed to kill the battery once thus far, but I think it was because I actually left the car 'on' and left it for an hour, after it had been only driven on EV for a couple days, and I was playing with the lights, getting in and out of the car all morning. I was able to get a jump start thankfully, I kept cables with me. There is a bit of a trick with the jump start to make sure you are not on EV, and to rev accelerator while in park or in neutral. My sense is that worst case the battery might need to be replaced prematurely, however I have a sense that most issues with dead battery reports could be due to 1) owners driving in EV mode all the time, not 100% clear to me that driving in EV mode and charging actually charges the low voltage battery or not in the Energi. and/or 2) not knowing that car is still really on, leaving car. Different theories on whether engine should kick on automatically in that mode. not sure if that helps, but other than not being able to hook up my ford mobile yet after trying every day for 2 weeks, I like the car a lot. Mine had 90K miles (high for a 2013) , I paid $10,500. Had to put some money into 2 tires, alignment, really could have used 4 tires due to some pretty uneven tread wear, strange rumble in rear tires at lower speeds. Had to rotate to put the old tires in the back, but the new ones up front. Opted not to do brake work yet, though will likely also need rotors when I do it due to their current thickness allegedly a bit too thin to machine again....

For Front Amber Park/Turn Bulb Mentioned above that 3157 is appropriate. Also that current incandescent 3157 is a screw type bulb, rather than push in. This item on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/231547826868?item=231547826868&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr or this one which might not be same brightness,notsure http://www.ebay.com/itm/281646604923?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT described as 3157, but looks like a push in type. Will all these push-in 3157 LED bulbs work in 2013 Cmax Energi for Front Turn/Park dual brightness bulb? Secondly - this bulb http://www.ebay.com/itm/271819672881?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT describes the need for a 'Standard' socket as opposed to a CK socket. Picture at bottom of this URL shows Standard as having grounds on opposite sides of wedge, where 'CK' socket has grounds on same side of wedge. How can we tell what the current bulb/ socket type is? (Voltmeter I presume worst case?) Does Ford Cmax have 'Standard' socket or 'CK'? Thanks

Are the side marker bulbs also Amber? Ie should be yellow led replacement like in mirror? Same 194's?

Anybody find lower cost alternatives to the Weather tech with comparable quality, coverage? Anybody try cut to fit Cargo mats - weathertech or competitors? in Energi model?

yes, thanks for your help! Would love to see if you can take some controlled pictures before and after to see how brightness changes, i.e. same time at night, same distance from car, same angle, gotta wonder how to get consistent exposure with an iphone camera..... I'm should be getting some stuff trickling in next week too. Will try to do same. What kind of LED bulbs, color needed for the turn signals in the side view mirrors? Don't see those listed in manual either.

Did 'some' putzing around with the lights for a couple hours. Then drove the car in EV mode for 20 minutes. My wife may have driven in EV only mode for past 2 or 3 days. Got to destination, got out of car. closed door and heard a double honk TWO fast honks - Beep Beep. tried a few doors, all doors gave same double honk (perhaps car was still 'running'), not sure. came back out after maybe 30 minutes in store. Battery Dead, needed jump. So, question is whether A) how'd I kill the battery and B) if it was cumulative wear on battery, is the lesson learned that owers need to drive in non-EV mode at least a few miles every week to charge the 12V battery. or C) do I have a bad battery or charging system that isn't charging the battery properly.

You're totally right, doh, it was a pure optical illusion of the mirror shape... explains the flame shape and no owner's manual entry, nevermind ;), so sorry. btw local Walmart stocks 1156 white and 1156A (A?) Amber 1157, 1157A (Amber) 3157 (A?) Amber but they want $15/pr, and I don't recall wattages, lumen ratings published on packaging. Assume can find cheaper on ebay...quality unknown. 2 questions - do you think the 3157 Amber at Walmart is 'dual' brightness, i.e. dim Amber, then bright Amber with turn signal? I will have ask the seller if they know what the two settings - lumens, colors are for the ebay item http://www.ebay.com/itm/281646604923?item=281646604923&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

Where can we find our software update version numbers? Also,I'm having a heck of a time trying to connect the myford mobile app with my 2013 Energi. Tried resetting fuse,re'adding vehicle several times through app and through the owner.ford.com site, system continues to drop the VIN from the app. I did get a couple prompts to accept control, but since the last time I pulled and replaced the fuse as instructed by Ford Phone support, I haven't seen any requests to link with the car on the car console. I'm currently waiting for 'a Ford Engineer' to call me back with case number they opened. I gotta wonder why this is happening. Security too tight on this process. No idea what is actually happening. A lot of rumors and guesses,i.e. keep car out of garage to get satellite signals, etc.. Anybody else have issues they could resolve on their own to get the myfordmobile app set up? Thanks.

Good call on the test polarity before putting assembly's back in. When you say 'the ones you currently have in there are very dim' - do you mean a different seller's replacement LED's? or do you mean the current incandescents that came with the car? If you mean a different seller's LED's can you share any specs - i.e. watts, lumens, or link to help us understand how to better predict brightness based on specs? I know the Diode Dynamics guys warn how they measure more accurately somehow, so I'm sure they will be good, but I'm curious how to tell how much worse less expensive options will be and how to find the brightest options.... And no, I'm not referring to the side marker bulb in the top corner which will take a 194. I do strangely have a second turn signal bulb which does blink with the turn signal (apparently Ford also forgot it was there ;). I assume they don't have it in the 2015 and you have just the one. I guess I'll have to pull it out unless some other lurker out there could help me out ;) = Thanks!!

In trying to decipher my bulbs as to what I need for LED replacement for Park/turn lamp front called 3457AK in my manual. My 2013 Energy has 2 bulbs (on same side) that appear to do the same thing - one smaller inside mini flame-shaped bulb and one larger outside bulb. They are both amber colored glass inside the clear mirrored housing for both. The both glow a low brightness Yellow when lights are on (2nd and 3rd positions in 4 position light switch), and then they both glow HIGH brightness Yellow with signal. I found one possible candidate thus far for what I assume is the larger one -the 3457. I assume I want the same 2 states - Soft Yellow to Bright Yellow. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amber-Yellow-3157-15W-High-Power-LED-Bulb-Turn-Signal-Blinker-Light-3157A-3057-/281646604923?vxp=mtr&hash=item419372227b No idea if this is the brightest, most dependable, or cheapest one, but primarily concerned whether 3157 is OK for what is supposed to be 3457AK per manual. It appears Ford doesn't even list the smaller one, so I may not know what it is unless I take the whole housing off. @notquitesane - do you have both of these bulbs , if so, what was the smaller bulb and what do you think is candidate LED replacement or would you leave incandescent one in there (OK to mix?) ?

Any corrections, additions, caveats from the demo videos these guys at carcarekiosk have? http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Ford_C-Max_Hybrid_SEL_2.0L_4_Cyl./lights/daylight_running

@notquitesane - did you use white 194's in the center tail brake light or red? I assume the bulbs you took out just glowed white also, correct? Also, where, how did you install a resistor exactly? Thx!

Saw this post on an ebay vendor page when researching dual color bulb replacment - i.e. front and door mirror bulbs. Does anyone know if 2013 CMax Energi sockets are 'CK' type? 11.NOT CK Type? Yes,all our bulbs come with Standard Base, NOT CK Type. Don't put standard bulbs into CK type sockets. It may pop the fuse or blow the bulb. Or the bulb will light up amber ONLY. You can use a electroprobe to check the two Positive points before installation if you're not sure.