HannahWCU

I have not posted in a while, BUT I recently passed the 100,000 mile mark (103,116 as of today) on my 2013 Cmax. Purchased January 2013. Here are some statistics (pulled from ACAR app): Lifetime Average MPG - 43.1mpg (2,380 Gallons of fuel used to travel 102,456 miles) Maximum MPG - 60.5mpg (September 2014) Minimum MPG - 34.4mpg (April 2013) 2013 MPG - 43.4 on 25,677 miles driven 2014 MPG - 46.9 on 22,398 miles (me trying to get best mpg every tank) 2015 MPG - 42.0 on 19,597 miles (Wife daily driving car January, new tires July 2015, 44.0 before new tires, 39.7 MPG after new tires) 2016 MPG - 40.6 on 20,714 miles (I started daily driving car again September, new commute 5 miles vs. 30 miles) 2017 YTD MPG - 42.2 mpg on 12,523 miles Average $/Gal - $2.571 Max $/Gal - $3.799 Min $/Gal - $1.419 $/mi: $0.060 I also recently (101,240.8) went over 600 miles on a tank without really trying: 600.7 miles on 12.40 gal (indicated) for 48.4mpg I had the Transmission replaced at 63,500 miles (under warranty) Both Front side windows have jumped the track and been fixed (passenger side twice) Right Front Half Shaft replace at 73,800 miles (~$600) Tires replaced at 60,332 Replaced with Michelin Premier A/S (~$800) I would buy the car again, I really like it.

Ford ETIS lists this for me: 16S30 - DOOR LATCH REPLACEMENT Does anyone know if this includes the rear liftgate? I just had mine in the dealer yesterday for the liftgate not latching. Cost me $150 to get it fixed. Although, they did tell me to keep the receipt that here "might" be a recall on the latches coming soon ... REALLY?!?!

Nope, sorry, sold.

I have to agree with Paul on tire pressure, ran mine at 46 most of their life, Got more than 60K out of the OEM's. Regular rotation is critical though.

I wasn't talkingabout the prices themselves, but more referring to the relative movement of prices. Gas prices can move quit a bit from month to month, week to week and even day to day. Electricity prices on the other hand, don't move that much. So the fuel costs of an electric stay fairly constant. I do agree that electricity prices only go up, but they have nowhere near the volatility of gasoline. That isn't alot of driving, we put 300/week on both the Electric Focus and the CMax!!

Here is some information on my Focus Electric: My lifetime average (after 11,000+ miles) is 250 Wh/Mi (which, as hybridbear stated, the way the focus reports it). This works out to 4 miles per kWh. Last months electricity bill was for $270.09 for 2318 kWh of electricity. This works out to $0.117 per kWh. So my electricity cost for my Focus last month is ~$0.035 per mile (assuming all charging was completed at home and a 20% overhead for charging). Compare this to my CMax, for the month of August, fuel cost me on average $0.055/mile. And that is with an average mpg of 40 and average fuel price of $2.187 here in NC. A few things to remember about pure electrics: Electricity prices don't change much, fuel prices do! No noise, bigger deal than you think. Instant Torque available. makes car feel MUCH peppier than you might think. No stops at gas stations. I have not been to a gas station in 3 months!!! No service needed! My first scheduled maintenance (other than tires, windshield wipers, etc.) is at 150,000 miles (to replace 2 quarts of coolant that keeps the electronics cool) Sorry about being off topic.

So I replaced my tires at 60,332 Miles. Still had tread left on them (but I had other reasons for replacing): Contrary to my previous post, I went with the Michelin Premier A/S. My wife drives this car now, and I put a lot of emphasis on hydroplaning resistance and wet weather traction. This tire is designed to maintain those qualities throughout their life. After 6 fill-ups, it looks like I did loose a measurable amount of MPG. The 6 fill-up prior to replacing the tires I averaged 43.9MPG, the 6 fill-up since, only 40.3MPG (~8% less). I must point out here that the tires were set at the factory recommend 38PSI and I usually ran the OEM's at 45-46PSI. Also the Premier A/S is rated at a sidewall max of 44PSI vs. the 51PSI for the OEM tires. I am now running about 41-42PSI in the Premier A/S. NOTE: The car is currently having the transmission and one half-shaft replaced which could be a source of the reduced MPG.

With the miles I tend to put on a vehicle the extended warranties are expensive. Adding years to a warranty is cheap, but miles ... The CMax is 32 months old and has ~63,000 miles on it, that is almost 2,000 miles per month. So in 5 years I'll have ~120,000 miles on it. 5 year 120,000 miles extended warranties are not cheap.

Add Mine to the list. Build date 10-8-2012. Bearing noise, mostly highway miles. 63.5K miles, being replaced now under warranty NOTE: Was first diagnosed as a bad Half-shaft (at a cost of $600), I guess that didn't eliminate the noise, so now the transmission is being replaced. Supposedly, the dealer is trying to get Ford to help on the Half-shaft as they said it needed to replaced anyway. I don't understand how a Half-shaft can go bad in under 65,000 miles.

Thanks! I was beginning to think I was the only one with this problem. Thought maybe it was something I did. Personally, I think Ford should pay for the repair since it was a weld (welds only have a 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty???). It is a WELD, shouldn't these last longer than the vehicle????

Anyone?

I had a problem with the drivers window not rolling up on my CMax a year or so ago. It jumped the track on the forward portion of the window. It did this while the window was rolled down. Now I am having the same problem with the passenger side window. I have fixed it twice myself (as the vehicle is out of warranty <3 years old but almost 60k on the odometer), but it is now completely off the track. It is in the dealer today to see if they can fix it. Last time (Drivers Door), it took over 2 weeks to repair (never did get the paperwork for that repair). This is VERY frustrating and I am guessing VERY expensive. Seems to me that BOTH doors should not have this problem. and since it happens with the windows down fully, I have got to think this is a manufacturing issue not something I have done. I have not seen any other topics on this subject, anyone else have this problem? UPDATE: The problem is "a weld came loose" which is exactly what happened with the other window. Estimated $175 to fix. Not too bad, but a weld breaking??? Makes me wonder how well the rest of the car is built. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my CMax (sorry, it's HER CMax now, as I drive the Focus Electric), but in all my years of owning Fords, never had Welds come loose!!

I have, but as IslandTractor said, some people want them to mount winter tires on.

I just put new wheels on my Focus Electric and need to sell the stock wheels. These are the same as the ones on the CMax. I am looking to get $400 for all 4, they only have 7500 miles on them. They come with Center Caps but no TPMS. I am in North Carolina and can ship (at your cost). I can also send close-ups of each rim if you desire. No scratches or dings.

Sorry, repeat post.

Just curious, does anyone else still have the 14B03 recall showing up on etis? I think I remember getting both checks, but it is still listed on Ford etis.

Sorry, that should have read GPH :doh:

LOVE that commercial!!! So funny, the guys trying to be so cool and then being schooled on how to drive.

Yes I have my L2 charger installed. That is how I know how many kWh I charged with last month. And I also use value charging. It is set to start at 1am (it usually completes about 3am). I leave for work about 6:15, so I have a GO Time set to pre-heat the cabin to 85°F. LOVE the preconditioning!!!

Yes they do, on the highway, but the ICE in the CMax doesn't run ALL the time. On the Highway, the CMax runs "most" of the time, but on surface streets (or if you trying to get REALLY good MPG), the ICE doesn't run as much and THAT is where the heat will not come up. Especially in cold weather WITHOUT the heat on the HVAC on. I have to say my experience is the same as others here. Once the temp is about 180, the gauge doesn't move. And the amount it moves from 160-180 isn't much.

Curious as to why you choose 235/55R17 over the stock 225/50R17? Or did you link to the wrong size? The reason I ask is the 235/55R17 is NOT a LLR tire but the 225/50R17 is (at least it isn't marked as a LLR in that size on Tire Rack). Also with a slightly wider (by 0.3") and taller tire (1.3"), you effectively have taller gearing and your speedometer is off also (recording slightly lower speeds, 60MPH displayed is ~62.7MPH actual, and lower mileage than you are actually driving).

Just an FYI ... There are actually 2 different Michelin Energy Saver A/S in 225/50R17. One, the OE tire, is rated for 51psi max, the other is rated at 44psi Max. The OE tire has an "A" temperature rating vs. the "B" for the other tire. Just be sure you get the right tire when replacing. Interestingly, the one rated for 44psi max actually has a higher load rating (1477# vs. 1433# for the OE tire). See this link http://www.michelinman.com/tire-selector/size/225/50/17/OE/BNW/energy-saver-a-s/tire-details#techspecs for the Michelin web site and the difference between the two tires. Also, I have over 50k on my tires and am hoping to get another 10k before replacing. Very happy with the tire, but I don't usually by Michelin due to cost. Michelin's are VERY expensive. Tire rack lists the OE Michelin's at $183ea vs. $129ea for the Goodyear Assurance featuring Fuel Max or $140ea for the Continental PureContact with EcoPlus Technology. That is a difference of $172 (Continental) to $240 (Goodyear) for a set of 4. Even at $3/gallon for gas that $160-$240 will buy 57-80 gallons of gas over the life of the tire. Doing some quick math, as long as the Goodyear's can get within 9% of the fuel economy of the Michelin's, the Goodyears would save me money over the life of the tire (also, the Goodyear's are warranted for 65,000 miles vs. 55,000 for the Michelin's, Continental's are 70,000 mile tires). Just my $0.02.

Another update ... I just received my electric bill for January. I went online to Duke Energy to compare this years bill with last years. No surprise it was up a little over 300 kWh over last year (1287 kWh for 2015 vs 967 kWh for 2014). According to Duke, weather was not a factor, so that increase is mostly due to the FFE charging. The increase in cost to my bill is inline with what I estimated when I bought the car in November. But looking at the comparison between 2014 and 2015 got me thinking. My car increased my electrical consumption by about 1/3. That is a pretty big number. I had already looking into whether Duke Energy has a special rate for EV owners (which they don't), but they do have a time of use rate schedule. So I contacted Duke yesterday to switch my rate over. This was not an easy task. I had to speak with 4 different people before I got someone who could help me with that. The kicker with the time of use schedule is there is a "On-Peak Demand Charge per month, per kW". This charge is calculated as: "On-Peak Demand for billing purposes each month shall be the maximum integrated thirty-minute demand measured for the On-Peak period during the month for which the bill is rendered." And the rate for those kW is $3.88/kW in the winter and $7.77/kW in the summer (yes those are DOLLARS per kW not cents! The offset is the normal kWh charge is between $0.024 (peak) and $0.036 (off-peak) less than I am currently paying ($0.096/kWh + tax). And since the peak times are relatively small (7am-noon in the winter and 1pm to 7pm in the summer) most of my electricity usage should be off-peak (I should note that I have natural gas for heating and hot water). So will the new rate lower my electricity cost? Stay tuned to find out.

Yes, your probably right. I was calculating MPGe based on cost. How many miles can I drive on the cost of 1 gallon of gas. i.e. My cost is $0.0284 per mile, If I drive 70 miles my cost is $2, gas is $2 so therefore I get 70 MPGe. But you are correct in your calculations. My lifetime average is 275 kWh/mile. So i am getting about 3.6 miles per kWh lifetime. I should note that while I wrote down my kWh of usage for the month, I lost the mileage number so it is an estimate. It should be close but not perfect. I will hopefully have a more accurate number for February.

I thought I might add an update with some usage numbers. In the last month I have traveled about 1800 miles and used (according to my home charger) 297 kWh of electricity. At $0.112 per kWh, that works out to $33.264 to travel 1800 miles or approximately $0.0185 per mile. Or, to put in another form, at $2/gallon that is about 108 MPGe. That is my cost, keep in mind I also charge at work (which I don't pay for). So 630 miles of the approximately 1800 miles last month was charged at work. So taking those miles out we now have; 1170 miles on 297 kWh. Which works out to $0.0284 per mile or about 70 MPGe (@$2/gallon). That isn't quite the 105 MPGe it is rated for, BUT I pre-condition the car every morning to 85F. That uses about 2.5 kWh each morning. That reduces my effective MPGe, but sure is nice! Even at $0.0284 per mile that is less than half the $0.07/mile that my CMax has cost me over its 50K+ miles and almost half what the Cmax has cost me in the last 3 months ($0.051/mile). So even at $2/gallon my FFE is still more efficient than a Hybrid or pure ICE vehicle. :wub2: