HannahWCU
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Posts posted by HannahWCU
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Thank you, thank you. I really appreciate that. It does take a lot of work to achieve 700 miles on a tank. I spent 7 days getting up early so I could take my alternate route to work. It adds 15-20 minutes to my normally 35 minute commute to work. I REALLY didn't think I could ever get 700 miles. But everything came together over the last 9 days. Good cool weather, allowing me to keep the windows rolled up and the AC off. And no rain!! With a frost advisory for tonight, I finished just in time too!
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Well I made it :worship: . See this post http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1025-600mile-cmax-club/?p=34876. I was running on fumes ... pump indicated I put 13.937 gallons in my (supposedly) 13.5 gallon tank.
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And out of nowhere HannahWCU pulls a 704.8!!!! :clapping: I started another thread yesterday about my decision to go for 700. It was VERY CLOSE. Although the Trip meter says I used 12.89 Gallons for a 54.6MPG average, I KNEW it lied. I just didn't know how much until I filled up ... Pump indicated I put 13.937 Gallons in the tank!!!! :drop: I guess the owners manual lies when it states the Hybrid has a 13.5 gallon tank. :rtfm:
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Ditto. But the next 50 can seem like pins and needles! :waiting:
The engineer in me KNOWS the numbers show I have at least a gallon of gas left which should take me to 700 at this point. :detective:
The practical person in me is going :runaway:
I drove to work with that egg under my gas pedal. And I am sure going home will be the same. Yesterday, it seemed like every car that got in front of me needed to turn left at the same time a line of 5 cars were coming towards us in the other lane, making me stop and loose all my momentum. :swear:
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Morning update. Made it to work with a 58mpg trip average. Sitting at 649 miles, 11.87 indicated gallons used and 0 miles to empty.
Update: Forgot to say my indicated MPG rose to 54.6 with the morning commute.
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Murphy's Law ... OK got it.
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It will be tomorrow. 30 miles each way to work gets me to 680. Figured if I was that close I would find a 20 mile route while the ICE is warm (and so are the temps) to get me to the magical 700.
As for the gas can ... I might stop by the house at the 680 mark to get one. But am trying to do this without one.
I have been using Hwy 70 from Hickory to Statesville and back. I find that I can average at least 55mpg each way on 70. But taking I-40, my mileage rarely breaks 50. Mostly due to speed, I believe. I can stay between 45-55 on HWY 70.
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I didn't start this tank thinking I was going to try for 700 miles, but it looks like my last shot at it this year. The temps are predicted to get into the 30's at night by the weekend. As it sits now, I am at 619.4 miles. Trip meter (below) reads 54.4 MPG using 11.36 gallons. DTE reads 36 miles. I know from experience that I regularly fill the tank with 1/2 gallon more gas than the trip meter says I use. So I am VERY hesitant to go much past 13.00 gallons used. However, based on calculations, I should make 700 miles before using an indicated 13 gallons. :future:
One other issue. Its 30 miles one-way to work and the way I have been going to get this mileage has no gas stations on the way. :shift:
Need encouragement!!! :love_shower:
or discouragement. :sos:
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Also, probably just a typo, but make sure it's 5W-20, not 5W-30.
Yes it was, Thanks for clarifying.
Since Ford has publicly stated that the 2014 will come with "New engine oil with reduced friction", I can only assume it will be an 0W-20 spec.
But remember, 0W-20 may be specified for the 2014 model year, but that does not make it specified for the 2013 model year.
I'm not saying don't use it, also not saying it will cause a problem, I just want to be clear that 2013 CMax's specify that 5W-20 be used. Using anything other than the specified oil, may void your warranty. Personally, I will stick with 5W-20, it just doesn't get cold enough in my area of NC to justify the chance of a voided warranty. Now some of you that live well north of the Mason-Dixon line ... :stirpot:
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I have to agree with CMAX - Traveler on this. Lately, I think twice before starting a thread or giving my opinion for this very reason. However, I have been drawn into arguments online before so I am especially careful with what I post. I try my best to never make it personal.
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How much of a mileage improvement should be seen with the change from 5w-30 to 0w-30? I am wondering if it is worth the potential warranty denial for using the wrong oil specification.
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Here is my latest 500 mile tank.
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I believe the oil pan on the CMax is aluminum, so I don't think the magnetic heaters will work.
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I saw this article too. I think it's a great idea, but the big question is what happens in the event of a fender bender (battery bender?) Or crash.
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Yes, I agree. Everyone needs to remember to be civil. If someone does something or says something in a way you don't agree with, let it drop. There is no reason to get personal. I know I try really hard not to argue. Discussions are one thing arguments are something totally different. Let keep that in mind.
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Looking at the illustration, it looks like the plug is at the end of the cable where the 6D008 is pointing to.
There is a weather-protection cap on the plug so it might not look like a plug.
The block heater itself is behind the exhaust manifold.
Yes, but what I believe he is asking is, where, specifically, on his car, should he look for the end of the plug. The diagram shows the plug, but not where that plug would be located on the car.
I am guessing, from what little I know, the plug should be on the passenger side of the engine. I would look in all the grill openings to find it, as I would not think you would need to open the hood to get to it.
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I agree, however, in my case, the alternate route adds about 10% more miles to my drive (29.1 vs. 26.6) and almost 50% to the time (55-60 vs, 35-40 minutes). I look at total gas used, since the alternate adds 10% more miles, I need to get 10% better FE to break even (roughly). Before the update, I was breaking even on the alternate route fuel wise (10% gain in MPG but 10% more miles driven = same fuel use), but it took more time, so it wasn't worth it for me. This is the first time since the update taking my alternate route. If I can average at least 58MPG both ways on the alternate, I will be netting about a 5% decrease in fuel use, so it might be worth the extra time.
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I'm browsing the site on my RAZR Maxx with Chrome and having no problems. You have already done everything I would suggest. Sorry I can't help.
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That's interesting. I never thought of using something like that. Let me know if you get it and how it works. Last time I cleaned the car I used a shop vac to clean out those areas under the hood that collect debris.
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It has been discovered that any device plugged into the OBD port will prevent you from running a VHR.
The XGauge I use most is the one that shows the amps of current flowing in or out of the battery. I find this very useful while driving to help me maximize fuel economy as discussed in the thread on the FFH Forum I linked above. HVB temp also works. SOC returns strange numbers for me but I found a discrepancy in the set of XGauge numbers I was provided by Linear Logic and what someone else posted on the C-Max Energi Forum in the MTH (math) section of the code. I'm guessing my data has an incorrect math calculation. FSI & FSD (Fan Speed Indicated/Demanded) also work to show when the HVB fans are running. HBV also works to show the voltage of the HVB pack. This is neat to watch how the voltage decreases when discharging and increases when charging. Typically pack voltage is around 280 when driving in EV Mode and about 285-290 when charging through regen braking or when the ICE is on.
I have not yet entered the code for the ambient air temperature. I don't think I have seen that coding either. Can someone please post it here or show me where it is available? I probably am just missing it hiding in plain sight, sorry...and thanks!
I don't remember exactly where i found these, but they are for the FFH. I have not tried them all:
Hv Battery State-of-Charge: units %
TXD: 07E4224801
RXF: 046245480601
RXD: 3010
Mth : 000100050000
NAM: SOC [35%-70%]
Hv Battery Voltage: units Volts
TXD: 07E422480D
RXF: 04624548060D
RXD: 3010
Mth : 000100010000
NAM: HVB
Hv Battery Temp: units degrees F
TXD: 07E4224800
RXF: 046285480600
RXD:3008
Mth : 00120001FDBC
NAM: BaT
Maximum Discharge Power Limit: units kW
TXD: 07E4224815
RXF: 046245480615
RXD: 3008
Mth : 001900010000
NAM: MxD
Maximum Charge Power Limit: units kW
TXD: 07E4224816
RXF: 046245480616
RXD: 3008
Mth : 001900010000
NAM: MxC
Average Battery Module Voltage: units Volts
TXD: 07E4224841
RXF: 046245480641
RXD:3010
Mth : 0001000A0000
NAM: AvM
Inside Car Temp: units degrees F
TXD: 07E422DD04
RXF: 046285DD0604
RXD: 3008
Mth : 00120001FE70
NAM: InT
Hv Battery State-of-Charge: units %
TXD: 07E4224801
RXF: 046205480601
RXD: 3008
Mth : 000850064FFB0
NAM: SoC [0%-100%]
Battery Age: units months
TXD: 07E4224810
RXF: 046285480610
RXD: 3010
Mth : 000100140000
NAM: age
Transmission Temp: units degrees F
TXD: 07E1221E1C
RXF: 0462851E061C
RXD: 3010
Mth : 000900080140
NAM: TFT
Hv Current: units amps
TXD: 07E122480B
RXF: 04628548060B
RXD: 3010
Mth : 000100050000
NAM: AMP
Motor Electronics Coolant Temp: units degrees F
TXD: 07E1224832
RXF: 046285480632
RXD: 3008
Mth : 001200010140
NAM: MeT
Engine run time: units minutes
TXD: 07E122F41F
RXF: 046245F4061F
RXD: 3010
Mth : 001900100000
NAM: TmE
Generator Inverter Temp: units degrees F
TXD: 07E122481E
RXF: 04628548061E
RXD: 3010
Mth : 00120001140
NAM: GnT
Motor Inverter Temp: units degrees F
TXD: 07E1224824
RXF: 046285480624
RXD: 3010
Mth : 001200010140
NAM: MoT
Generator Speed: units RPM
TXD: 07E1224821
RXF: 046205480621
RXD: 3010
Mth: 000100010000
NAM: GnR
Motor Speed: units RPM
TXD: 07E1221E2C
RXF: 0462051E062C
RXD: 3010
Mth: 000100010000
NAM: MtR
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Yes the Scangauge plugs into the OBD2 port. There are two in the CMax. The one I was using is below the steering wheel just behind the lower panel.
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I am really wanting these off a 2012-2014 Focus:
MTE issue. Somebody explain
in Fuel Mileage
Posted
I think it has more to do with your driving. It calculates MTE by your FE over the last (some period) of your driving. So if you do really good for, say, the last 20 miles, MTE goes up. Conversely, if your mpg is really bad over the same distance, it goes down.
Where you park your car can influence it too. My driveway is on an incline. So my fuel gauge is not accurate when I first start in the morning. Once I drive a few miles it gets a better reading and MTE, goes up. Make sense?