livesmith

Yeah, but running an engine at operating temp is about the easiest thing you can do to an engine. It's the starting and not at temp parts where the wear is more likely... Sure, there are a decent amount of them out there, but 3 years and 8 months is a pretty short amount of time in my mind. This is the newest car I've had. Usually I don't get something till it's at least 5 years old. Wonder what the highest mileage C-Maxes have gotten to. Once a good number of people start clearing 250K miles without major ICE trouble then I'd start feeling confident that it's a pretty reliable setup. I'm not saying I have any reason to think otherwise, just that I haven't heard of any long-term data yet.

True. This appears to be a key difference between the Prius and C-Max. The Prius seems to run the engine much more often to keep everything up to temperature. It seems the C-Max is much more likely to shut off. I wonder how the long term may differ. A failed ICE on a Prius seems almost non-existent.

I've got a set of Taurus wheels for my snow tires.

Bummer, I had thought Max had the approaching lights as well, but I guess I was just used to it on my old Prius and Sienna.

Oh, there are occasions when I miss this sort of room... I managed to get a Weber Grill in my Energi, but only by squeezing another couple inches out of the box and headliner/carpet, etc. By all accounts measuring it, it shouldn't have fit. And it did NOT want to. Was going to go pick up a board for my trailer, but realized I don't see any way to get a 46x60" item in there either...

Any chance you turned off the interior lights? Do they come on when you open the door?

I've got a 2013 Energi. If you got one and never plugged it in you'd only be at a negative state. -You'd spend more money to get the car -You'd spend more money on gas since you'd get worse mileage.(more weight in the car and a lower final drive ratio) If you don't plug it in, you've essentially got a slightly worse version of the C-Max Hybrid. That said, if you happened to go down something like Pike's Peak routinely then yes you would be able to fill up the larger battery and use it later so in that particular scenario you *might* end up with better overall mileage depending on conditions...

So these LED replacement lights actually seem as bright and cover as wide an area as the stock halogens?

So if I made it to the drive-in with my Energi fully charged I wonder how much battery I'd burn through sitting in "ON" for 4-ish hours... Wonder how hard it is to unplug the headlights...

I'd like to know just how to do that... I only recently started playing around with the radio with the car "off" and on my 2013 Energi it seems you only get 10 minutes before it shuts off and further it seems that after you've turned the stereo back on twice(maybe 3x) then it "shuts off to save battery" and I guess requires the car to actually be turned "on" before it will let you use the radio again? Which would REALLY suck at the drive-in since I've also got DRL's which Ford apparently requires to be on any time the car is on, never mind if you're driving or not...

That's what I've heard. Trouble is I'd just as soon have DRL, I'd just like a way to not have it on while parked but on.

I WISH this was the case. I agree, I've had cars in the past with DRL's and they had ways of temporarily turning them off like with the e-brake on. Not so on my 2013 Energi. I had it in park, parking brake engaged, lights turned to OFF and as soon as I turn the car ON, the DRL's are on. Not normally a problem for me, but it would make it a lot more of a pain at the Drive In...

I had this problem at one point in our garage. One day they chewed through an ignition coil wire on our Sienna(thankfully it was able to be patched). Then when we had our first kid, my Prius sat in the garage for like a week. After that there was a small chunk missing from the front passenger seat and the airbag light was on. Fortunately I found another chunk missing out of the back seat and apparently they chewed through the curtain airbag wire assembly back there. Again, patched. For a while I just didn't park in the garage and it seemed to help. Thankfully no more problems in a few years!

Nice! Yeah, I just re-checked the one I got for my 13 Energi and it doesn't show the oil life like yours.

I haven't played with it much yet but there appears to be another even more minimal mode than accessory. With the car off I can press the power button on the radio and turn it on without ever touching the power button for the car... I'm used to the auto power off feature at the drive in. Our Sienna has the same thing. What I've realized would be even more of a problem with my 2013 Energi is that it's DRL's don't shut off in Park. Any time the car is on, the lights are on. So to not annoy anyone I'd have to make sure I got there well before the movie starts(not a big deal) and then not turn the car back on until everyone else is leaving...(even then I've tended to just use the marker lights to not annoy others still watching the credits or something). The trouble with that is hoping that the 12v battery will be ok with the stereo on for 4 or so hours... Might be fine... Oh, and hoping that I don't need to start the car for a bit of heat or defrost... Every other car I've owned had options for shutting off the drl's, either with a built in switch or with the parking brake on a notch, etc...

Yep, I get the extended performance as well. If this stuff is going to be in there for 1-2 years and/or 10-20K miles I'd like the added protection.

Does this work for the C-Max Hybrid? I finally got a VHR to run on my Energi and I can't find anything about oil life remaining. All it does is give me like 5 green checks for various categories and the "additional info" just has some generic boiler plate about how your engine works, etc. The closest I found was in my 70K mile service to be done where it says that the oil should be changed either when the OLM comes on or 24 months or 20K miles, whichever comes first. From the 53% reading on Forscan I'm assuming I'm just going to get an OLM light at 80K.

My 2013 Energi has DRL's and autolamps. But there's still a difference. The headlights are always on, but at reduced brightness and the headlight indicator on the dash is NOT on when in DRL mode. When the autolamps switches on, the headlights go full brightness, the rest of the marker lights turn on and the indicator light on the dash turns on.

Yup. Or that we get responses like "yup, you're right it doesn't work." and have no plan to fix it. Or to tell us that whatever is wrong is basically a feature and supposed to be that way...

Nice. Sounds like your dealership is about as bright as mine, but I didn't try fighting them that much to actually get anything done because it looked like a losing cause. I just used the install someone else posted and after about an hour of various updating it went through it finally finished and I was on 3.8. Never showed as an option on Ford's website and I've yet to find any way to report it to Ford. And the dealer gave me the expected response of "yeah, it doesn't work." Which was the same response to the Vehicle Health Report not working. Which I have managed to get closer to working on my own. Oh yeah, GPS as well. Except they told me on that one that *I* was wrong, there was nothing wrong with my GPS. I've since gotten it working at least for now by pulling a couple fuses. I am so fed up with dealers. Good luck!

"Know it is done right". THAT is the key. Back to the matter of whether you have a competent dealer. My personal experience with most dealers is that I trust them a lot less than independent mechanics. Even with just changing the oil. Sales, Service and Parts. I've heard people in each of those departments spout things that weren't true and they do it the whole time like they know better than anyone else.

I agree completely. If you've got a good dealer who knows what they are doing and does a good job and doesn't try to overcharge you for everything they possibly can then I'd definitely go with them. The trouble is finding such a dealer... I have a lead on one possibility I hadn't thought of. Though it would also mean I'll be driving about 70 miles to go to the dealer when I have 2 dealers within 10 miles. Though, that said, even under warranty with a good dealer, I wouldn't have the dealer change the oil unless it was free or otherwise cheaper/more convenient. There's nothing complicated or warranty violating by having it done elsewhere or by yourself.

I'd skip the dealer entirely. I buy my Mobil 1 0w-20 at WalMart in a 5 quart jug. I'll either change it myself or take it to my independent mechanic and pay him $10 to change it. I stay away from the dealer if possible. I have about a 5% satisfaction rate with any department of any dealer I've dealt with. I have exactly one Toyota dealer I like and they're about 70 miles away and I haven't been there in years. Just got Max back from the dealer last week and was told flat out that I was wrong, there was nothing wrong with my GPS showing my car off to the side of roads that haven't moved in a hundred years. But was also repeatedly told that I NEEDED new $188 maps...

Look for some tiny traingle/arrows. One near each corner, under the doors close to the wheels. There seem to be solid points inside there.

Hmm, thanks, I hadn't seen that module yet... Maybe if I call a different dealer. The one I went to already quoted $750 for the part, so I'm sure they think it's something else. I found this video: One person on there says they have to pull fuse 67 and 79 every 6 months to fix it. So I'll try that free fix first. But they also list the GPS Antenna module as the fix: Part# CJ5Z-10E893-C