pianewman

Well, nice try. Ford's 15B04 CSP (Customer Satisfaction Program), according to my dealer, is VIN specific, and my CMax doesn't qualify. I assume our 2013 CMax is driven in a pattern that the charging algorithms can't adequately cover, so I'll be plugging it into the BatteryTenderPlus every 3-4 weeks. No major inconvenience, since I've got 2 plug-in cars already...the Fusion Energi and the Leaf. Thanks for the lively discussion!

ptjones: I've just scanned again your very interesting post. Maybe I'm missing something. I totally agree that the doorjamb recommended PSI is low. How low is always open to debate, and how HIGH go is always worthy of discussion. I'm amused by your claim: "Note: Tires aren't very sensitive to pressure, if you go up to 40 psi you will probably not notice a difference. At 45 psi you will notice a little difference and 50 psi a little more". I notice significant differences when raising PSI, even in small amounts. Maybe it's the rock-hard rough aggregate concrete roads around here! I'm curious about the trend here toward PSI at or near the sidewall limit. After 45 years of driving a wide variety of cars, trucks, bicycles, I avoid getting anywhere close to the sidewall max PSI, because of my fear of loss of traction at higher speeds due to limited tread contact. (fyi, my 2012 and 2014 Passat TDIs, with both OEM Contis and replacement Contis would NOT tolerate PSI above 40, as the vehicle would "tramline") ptjones: I'm curious why your Michelin photos only show 35 psi and less, and don't show the footprint with elevated PSI. I can't find the specific post/thread over at TDIClub, but more than one member (IIRC) claimed, after years of autocross experience, that PSI close to the sidewall max created adverse traction when pushing higher speeds. I also recall one member commenting that the clubs he races with closely monitor PSI, and prohibit PSI levels close to the sidewall max. For those of you driving at or near max PSI, I assume you've not actually experienced emergency maneuvers that felt compromised by the higher PSI. I consider myself a very assertive (I drive quickly), but attentive driver, avoiding dozens of potential accidents by simply scanning way ahead, and in my 48 years of experience, I've actually locked up the brakes fewer than 10 times, so I don't honestly know how I can compare. Thanks for a very informative thread. FYI, I will continue to keep my tires about 5-8psi lower than the sidewall limit.

That's why, even with legal tread remaining, I go ahead and replace. TX heat isn't kind to tires. Inconvenience, in rural TX, is a real pain.

I didn't find this thread when I looked 3 years ago, when our (used) 2013 CMax started creaking very loudly. I started applying a liberal smear of silicone grease on all the rubber gaskets, as it adheres better and works better than the aerosol silicone. ***The silicone spray is needed on the B-pillar trim, which appears to be 2 or 3 plastic/rubber pieces pressed together. I sprayed that part heavily, while spreading the parts apart (hoping they wont' break!) as far as possible. I only need to do this every 3-4 months, and the good news is, all of the rubber seals look brand new. ***CORRECTION: NOT the B-pillar trim but the front door rear edge, where it contacts the B-pillar.

^^^thanks, Snowstorm. I'll phone my dealer Monday AM, see what they can find in my car's records.

Dealer just phoned. They are replacing the battery (#4!) since this one failed at 21 months. They promised that everything will be reset. They could find nothing wrong with the electrical system. Hmm... Curiously, our 2017 Fusion Energi (now 30k miles, purchased around 19k miles) just had its battery replaced (under warranty), so now on #2. Even shorter distances than the CMax, as my wife's commute is 7 miles. r/t. I'll keep an eye on the battery. TX heat has been relentless this year, so... Both cars have pigtail leads for quick plugin of BatteryTenderPlus. I will be more diligent about using it, to keep batteries charged. I will leave the emerg lithium jump charger in my son's CMax, since he lives in an apt and has no access to 120v outlet to charge his car.

Kept the battery on a 4 amp charger overnight Wed-Thurs, still drawing 2 amps after 12 hours. Took to dealer Thurs. AM, awaiting a phone call. SOOO...the moral of the story? If the CMax is only driven 35-45 miles at a time, the SOC will continue to drop, and any slight additional draw (listening the the radio after shutdown) will kill the battery? Will installing an AGM help mediate this? Should I use the BatteryTenderPlus every 3-4 weeks or so? (I WILL carry a Lithium quickcharge in the car at all times. Even the Ford service adviser recommended I do this...ridiculous necessity...)

Curiously, when we removed SYNC/Radio fuses to attempt a reboot, there was no change. The SYNC/Radio still wasn't functioning.

97k miles. Dallas/Ft Worth heat. 1st OEM battery replaced at time of (previously owned) purchase, at 40k miles. This is my son's car, so it doesn't get my OCD attention. He's a grad student, only uses the car for jazz gigs, driving highway from Denton--Dallas--Ft. Worth. I'll assume at this point almost zero short distance drives. 1)Second 12V battery replaced, 12/26/18. (So the car is on its 3rd battery) Dealership assured me BMS was reset, that was 21 months ago, with no battery failure issues. I've not tried the "ignition off/radio on" time to shutdown, may try that later this evening. 2) I understand the need to correct any parasitic drain prior to any battery replacement. 3) I brought the car home (AAA jump started "totally dead battery, showing 0 CCA. Interesting that SYNC/Radio came to life after the jump start...radio had stopped working several days ago). I will put it on 4amp charger overnight, so at least I can get it to the dealership tomorrow AM. Dealership has a 1-2 day backup for electrical work. All the "dead 12V battery" posts have me paying attention. We've put almost 60k miles on the car (purchased around 40k miles), with no issues until the battery failed Dec. 2018. Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate it.

I searched, couldn't find any threads on this. Has anyone replaced the OEM 12V battery with an AGM battery? We continue to have battery failures, and I'm wondering if the AGM battery would be a better battery?

I was surprised, as well. Keep in mind, your climate/driving style, etc. might be vastly different than mine. Mine is a single data-point!

Here's a single data point for you. DFW region, 2013 CMax, at 73k miles, Blackstone tested the oil with 17k miles on the Ford Motocraft Full Synthetic, 5w-20. Blackstone said I could have run the oil to 19k miles. Oil was tested May 30, 2018, so it was largely run through the winter months in the DFW region...ambient temps mostly 60-75f, maybe a few weeks 50-60f. Probably a 50/50 balance of city/highway.

I'm confused. When did you take it to the dealer? Did they service the car? Did they LOOK at the wheels? They told you "...it was safe to drive..." after looking at the car? I don't understand the sequence of events. You want him to install TWENTY locking lug nuts?????????????? :) :) :)

OEM battery 5 years old? Regardless of your liftgate issue, you're WAY beyond borrowed time. Replace it. That said, our 2013 Cmax liftgate sometimes won't "pull" shut and latch, and requires a gentle push to fully secure the latch. However, the liftgate fully opens/closes every time as designed.

I'm not sure that making a spreadsheet of your single experience means your information is NOT anecdotal! ;) I would also offer the opinion that BOTH blowouts were "on you"!! :lol:

2013 Cmax, purchased in Aug, 2016, with 41k miles. 12V battery wouldn't hold a charge, dealership replaced it under warranty. Dec. 2018, 82k miles, 2nd battery failed. Replaced at Ford dealership. 4-year replacement warranty I live in FW, and the selling dealership has told me that they have a chart that shows the average battery lifespan in the DFW region is 27-32 months. My Toyota dealership told me virtually the same thing. DFW heat isn't kind to auto batteries.

Did you actually SEE the broken part? I can't wrap my head around any vehicle in the rust belt, 5 years, w/o rust in parts of the undercarriage. Usually pot-metal screws/bolts./clamps holding fuel/brake lines, etc, also weld points of shocks/struts. I'm not messing with you, just curious.

"...right rear strut/shock snapped..." Did you see the damaged part? I can't imagine the piston rod snapped, thinking either the top or bottom attaching points broke. 79k miles/5 years, in the "rust belt" makes me wonder if there was rust involved. As for getting any municipality to pay for the repair: go for it, but you're probably wasting your time. 79k miles/5 years...

Thanks, obob. Still navigating schedules for a HS and College senior. College senior is taking the car to school, for limited use, so any repair will be put off for a bit. Maybe I'll even be able to do the link replacement myself, depending on how the hips feel. Excellent info in this thread. Thanks all!

Parts are around $25/ea side. Actual time to jack up the car, remove wheel, remove 2 bolts, reverse: I agree, easily done in a home garage. Except, for me, at 64, expecting my FIRST hip replacement in 3 weeks, no can do. IIRC, dealership wants .5 hour per corner. WAY too much, IMHO. Thanks for the advice. I'll let it porpoise for a bit longer!!!

Thanks for the clarification. The only experience I have with swaybar links (VAG products...involved a clunk, and absolutely no change in suspension function. I'll check them out!

I'm trying to wrap my head around how worn swaybar end links would help large vehicular undulations. If the bushings in the links are worn, won't there be a clunking/rattling sound? I don't understand. Please explain. Thanks.

Hello all, At 75k miles, our 2013 CMax suspension has really loosened up, with uncomfortable porpoising over highway undulations. I don't know the terminology, but there's a lot of diagonal rotation, if that makes sense. So, is there experience here with aftermarket strut/shocks, or should I stick to OEM? Maybe an upgraded anti-swaybar? We like the overall handling of the car, just want to tighten it up a bit. Thanks in advance. Ed in Ft. Worth, TX

Hmm...5 years since this discussion started and stopped. Surely there are better run flat tire options available today? I've used the "tire mobility kit" on a small puncture on my 2015 Leaf. Worked exactly as designed, the goop held PSI for 2+ weeks, finally had the tire removed, cleaned (with water...), traditional T plug from inside. No followup issues, even the pressure monitor remained unaffected. Of course, we all know a blowout can't be fixed by any mobility kit. The thought of a failure on a run flat with 20k miles on it isn't a good one: 2 tires would need to be replaced (to keep evenly worn tires L/R), not one, so the expense is doubled. I'm tempted to try the latest, but thought I'd fire up this discussion again. Thanks.

Back again. Only 34k miles on the DWS-06, plenty of tread left, but they are LOUD!!!! , especially in between 30-50mph. One of them is "wah---wah---wah---" like a bearing about to fail. I'm not exactly sure what rotation pattern the dealer used, but for whatever reason, tires are screaming. Now, another controversial discussion:Maybe I'll start a new thread... Several different run-flat options. Our 2013 needs a tire mobility kit (expired). We don't want to install a spare tire in the hatch area. Opinions on the runflats?