grege

All the vents are open and yes, the hidden center stack one is essential. Auto ON 71F should feel pretty cold when it's 85-100F outside, but it doesn't, so I've given up just crank the AC down to LO and...not impressed (and not until 30 minutes later does it feel likes it's starting to get cold). Ridiculous. Greg

2018 titanium: is the AC on these hybrids generally just "ok" or weak? I ask bc even when I set mine to LO and LO-max, it blows cool air, but cold air is not an option until after 30 minutes of driving. It's never blown warm air (yet) except at the beginning, but it's definitely disappointing and it's definitely not cold. I will eventually grab a temperature probe and insert into the vents, but until then...would love to know other's experiences. Thanks, Greg

I'd drive both. Generally, the cmax is a much better handling and driving vehicle, but build quality is more variable; I own two cmaxes and despise Ford's poor quality-build on both although I way prefer the way those drive compared to the prius when we tested both. We haven't had anything catastrophic go wrong with either (yet). Whichever one you prefer, have a trusted mechanic give it a thorough inspection for peace of mind. 2016 and newer cmaxes are the better builds. Greg

Having had two sets of Goodyear Assurance tires, I was not impressed by those (poor wear and all delaminating). And our OEM Michelin energy tires that came on both our cmaxes = getting louder/cupping, so will steer clear of those too. My next tires will be NTB house-brand (TBC epic or aspen or similar); while cheaper, I have a set of epics now and while i don't expect long wear, I've been happy with those to try again. Tire prices have gotten ridiculous and the more expensive ones I've tried the last 20 years have been hugely disappointing. Greg

Rav4 hybrid is the only one I'd consider at this point (until/unless Honda CRV hybrid improves). My real preference is to see the Ford Transit Connect hybridized; that could be ideal (although I'd still be leery given Ford's very poor build quality with our 2 cmaxes). Greg

Puzzling how after 100 years of manufacturing, many brands (possibly all) have problems with door latches as if they've never made those before. Greg

Will have them recheck in July. Dealer recently adjusted the hood, thinking there was a 50% chance the hood rattle was the culprit. Nope! Also now getting a repeat offender: the rear wheels are grinding/pulsating as if the brake discs are warped and rusted again. I can't believe the repeat problems with this car. Greg

2018 titanium hybrid bought new. Since 10,000 miles (now at 25,000 miles), still having a mysterious clunking noise under the front end. Dealer kept car for a week chasing different parts and ended up replacing the lower control arm, strut parts, and finally the two stabilizer links (which they thought was the ultimate culprit). Nope. Basically, when hitting ruts and smaller speed bumps, get this metallic clunk/thump/metallic slap just below/in front of the cabin area. Sound reminds me of older muffler hanger movement noise. Anyone have something similar? Frustrating, but don't know if they checked the motor mounts - hmmm... Will need to follow up with that... No other cmax I've driven does this and neither does my wife's, so...??? Would like a solution... Greg

2018 titanium hybrid and gotta say, while I like the way the car drives in general, the noises and loose parts since new are disturbing (for both our 2017 and 2018). Vehicle since day 1 sounds like an old sailing vessel. At 20,000 miles, just had the lower control arm replaced for a "clunking noise". Best of all, the noise is still there (after 2 attempts). Hitting some bumps, I get a "thump" almost as if the undercowling is slapping the chassis. Suspension links were reportedly ok, but not impressed with undercarriage parts failing so early (our 2017 suspension links failed, both sides). Greg

+1 for youtube diy video. It's straightforward, but only slightly tedious. Recommend being very careful when removing engine cover bolts bc I dropped one into the engine bay and there is not much room yet a lot of nooks and crannies (had to use a telescoping magnet to retrieve). Greg

A friend of mine used to drag-race cars during his misspent-youthful years. Racers would often safely pump and run tires at 3 times the max-rated pressure. Not sure about ideal conditions (temperature, sun, track surface) for that because I'd expect slightly lower pressure would grip better, especially for shorter runs. Greg

I used to run door-placard-manufacturer-recommended tire pressures until a couple years ago. I now use the max. tire pressure (as indicated on the sidewall). What amuses me is being told to use "cold" tire pressure settings. Should that technically mean using the coldest temperature of the day??? For example, in winter, naturally, the coldest part of the day is early in the morning, so should cold tire pressure be set relative to that or relative to some benchmark air temp??? (32F, 50F, 71F, ... ??? Somewhat minor and a bit anal I know, but an interesting question for me, espeicially given that every 10F-degreee swing in air temperature changes tire pressure by ~1psi. And then sun exposure is a whole-nother animal! Just yesterday (mild temps), my morning pressure on a different vehicle was 34psi; an hour later (as the sun came up), pressure was already reading 38psi. Crazy, but cool. Greg

I would recommend giving NTB house brand tires a look (some branded as epic, others such as aspen, etc.). While not for our cmax, bought a set for our minivan that we drive about 5,000 miles per year (epic tires with 40,000 mile warranty, so at 5,000 annually, more than I need) and so far quite happy with those. As with our cmax, I keep epic tires inflated to near-max pressure, so... worth a look IMHO. Greg

Degrandbob, I'd recommend posting audio of it. Our two will whine or grind a little every morning, but ours sounds more like overnight rust busting loose from the brake discs. Greg

Just did my wife's 2017 cabin air filter and need to do mine next (ugh), but yeah, the cmax cabin filter is a bit of a PITA. Even the engine air filter is a bit ridiculous to get at, although at least that can be done without being too much of a contortionist. Greg

I'm going to have to try this access with our 2018 cmax as that top center console panel (atop of the screen) rattles like a buzzer even on smoother roads. If I apply downward pressure, the buzzing stops, but it's become a regular passenger each and every drive. Greg

Oddly, yes, both key fob batteries had blobs of the dielectric grease. First one I opened it looked like the button battery had melted, but it was grease. Greg

2018 cmax with 14,000 miles. Since new, the key fob recognition has been "spotty". Occasionally I still get the "key not detected" with both key fobs and other times I have to press buttons far too many times to lock and/or unlock. I inquired with my dealer and their response was awesome, meaning, "that's interesting". I went ahead and replaced both cr2032 batteries and will see how things go. I'll harrass the dealer if it doesn't improve. Surprising to me when opening both key fobs is the blobs of dielectric grease on each button battery. I suspect the dielectric grease is actually interfering with transmittance (based on previous research), so will see what happens and report back. Greg

My car has ~ 12,000 miles and some lug nuts fit the lug wrench "normally" while others are definitely swelling already. I'll be trying DPAccessories single piece lugs (~$25 for 20). Greg

1.99 ??? Never seen even conventional oil going for that low a price in years... Greg

Thanks, After I posted, I learned about the odd two-piece, foil-wrapped design that has caused some consternation (among several brands) that included an attempted-and-dismissed class-action lawsuit somewhat recently. Unfortunate, but yes, I'll be shopping for a one-piece lug because all of mine are displaying "loose" cappings. Greg

This is unsettling to me, but might be normal: Went to torque all lug nuts on both of our cmaxes. Oddly, I can reverse the lug nuts very slightly with almost no pressure, which suggests they're loose, but...they're not; but it's unsettling that they seem to have some kind of "torque washer" (my term) or encased stud that allows movement. Can several folks please confirm this for me. I'm only used to lugs that seat firm and strong and do not move or "wiggle" any after being torqued (or even slightly tightened). Thanks! Greg

Have done few other car's brakes, but not a cmax yet. If I remember correctly, for rotational pistons, clockwise retracts it. Could parking brake be interfering? Wish I could be better help, but haven't done a cmax yet, so not sure of the setup. Hopefully, someone will chime in with deets. Greg

Dropped car at ford dealer and interestingly, they first resurfaced all rotors (front and back) and then ended up replacing the rear ones after measuring "below"tolerance. None of the brake pads were replaced at the same time. Did not expect or want the front ones resurfaced, so not sure why they did that since the problem reported was for the rear brake/tire noise. A little annoyed that a dealer would replace rotors but not the brake pads since you've already got the brakes apart. Oh well, 2 more years of warranty left, so if I hear other noises or warping, back it goes... Greg

Mine is definitely coming from the rear wheels. Small chance it's a wheel bearing; likely scenario is either a brake caliper not fully releasing for simply an uneven rotor. Sounds similar to driving the car after a few days of rust have built up on the rotors except that it occurs constantly while driving. I'll add that to my undercarriage rattle that's gone unresolved next service. Greg