grege

Car went back to dealer and they confirmed there was a problem with their balancing machine, so rebalanced all and huge improvement. Problem now is, driving the same routes, mileage is much reduced (9-10mpg lower with same tire pressure) after switching from Michelin Energy to Goodyear Assurance Maxlife. Will track mileage for two weeks and if mileage remains this bad, will seek another tire change. Anyone swap new tires due to performance problems??? Thanks, Greg

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these cars will self-shut-off after so many minutes of inactivity, correct? Greg

2018 cmax and had a sidewall puncture in original michelins (~36,000 miles). Opted for 4 new tires and went with Goodyear Assurance max life. Horrible experience thus far. Vibrations readily obvious and horrible at highway speeds. Mileage after one day driving identical route to work yielded 10mpg drop already. WTH? Might need to have all replaced under the 30 day "guarantee". Don't know if it's a combination of bad tires and bad balancing or...??? Car was so smooth that I could do 80mph on original tires and not realize it; now, at 65mph and higher, it's unbearable. Something is not right. Greg

This is becoming the noisiest hybrid I've driven between the brakes and tire cupping noises. Did check the outer pads and those are almost "new" thickness, so if the inners are actually under 5/32", then there's obvious caliper failure and either way you slice that, that is simply dealer fraud given braking score is good and MPG are both quite good. Unfortunate, but a recurring reality for far too many and what keeps me from dealer service for anything except warranty work. I'll DIY the rotors and pads in the next year or two once it bothers me too much, but it's certainly not critical. Greg

Yeah, my OEM Michelin tires are already making noise (likely due to cupping), which is why I rotate tires yearly to prevent, but hasn't helped with this vehicle. I will now steer clear of Michelin tires and Goodyears due to bad experiences with both brands. Just checked the reported 4/32" front brad pads left and...NOPE, the brake pads still have much of their chamfers visible, so not even close to being worn much at all, yet Ford recommending new pads for $555 for the fronts. New rotors and pads recommended all around due to rust = What a bunch of fraudulent BS. I'm all for companies making a profit, but to do so fraudulently is sickening. Greg

Car finally back after one week (and sketchy service and "lost" parts). Car bought new and now has ~32,000 miles. Surprised to see one inspection item report rear brakes AOK while front brake pads are 4/32" and recommend replacing. With regen braking and only 32,000 miles, front brakes have worn quicker than any other new vehicle I've owned? Will need to visually check that in a few days, but disconcerting to read that while at the same time dealer reports all pads and rotors should be replaced due to rust. Um, if rotor surfaces are rusted, then there's obviously not much pad contact and pads should not be worn much, right? Transmission noises reportedly relate to half shaft/axle and hub (based on chasis stethoscope "ears"), but "replacements" have not yet diminished noises, so I'm sadly skeptical about that too. Second time in a row dealer has not rotated tires when requested as part of oil/filter/routine service. Might end up having another shop look it over to verify service. Servicing should not be this big a challenge for any customer. Greg

2018 titanium cmax, 32,000 miles. Started with high-pitched whine several miles ago. That turned into a humming/growling noise coming from the cockpit area that I would have sworn was tire/wheel noise. Dealer now thinks it's the CVT, which makes sense given the increasing growling noises I've been having, including some recent ones during hard acceleration. Ugh. Never been a fan of CVTs and still am not... Greg

Highway, not sure what would be best to avoid breaking something. I'd try placing the fob on a sunlit, hot dashboard for for few hours to maybe help loosen up any "fusing" that's taken place. I had to replace my new 2018 cmax fob batteries within the first year due to some "schmucky" slime (maybe dielectric grease) that was used on the button batteries. Keep prying...carefully. Good luck! Greg

Guestimate: $10,300.00 USD Greg

Son of a *&^@! I've cursed myself. When going to refuel today, receive a "Refuel Error See Manual" pop up on my screen today. Of course the manual is zero help, so i pull the fuel rip cord. Will see what next refill brings... Greg

Twice my fuel door did not open after I used a different "procedure". My cable did open the fuel door and ever since then and because it's flimsy plastic not to be trusted, I will only use this process: park car, pull hand brake, push "off" button and ONLY then do I press the fuel door button. No codes or check engine lights, though, so not changing the working process until/unless I have to do so... Greg

2018 titanium with what may be a leak, roughly dead center about where a rear axle center line. I placed a box/bag underneath to catch any drips after seeing a dinner-plate sized stain underneath. Will see what tomorrow brings, but can only imagine it'd be either brake fluid or fuel (if it is an actual leak and not simply some kind of muffler/condensation dripping). Fingers crossed for good news... Greg

Our 2017 and 2018 both would lose some initially during the few months of "being new". I check all fluids once to twice per month and have not had to add any coolant in many months. I too purchased a 50/50 ford mix and simply add a few ounces whenever I see the levels drop and always make sure to check that no puddles are left under either car. Greg

$250 is a huge markup as the filter costs around $20 and should take a mechanic 30 minutes if working very slowly (So, $50 dealer filter price and $60 labor = $110, which would be more reasonable but still a lot for a filter). Replacing the engine filter is tedious, but easy to do and it is NOT a lifetime filter. It does seem however to last 2 - 3 years easily before needing replacement. Cabin filter is also tedious, but should likely be replaced every 1 - 2 years. Greg

Searching this forum makes me wonder if this relates to the ANC (noise cancelling) plug. Anyone with a 2017 or 2018 cmax experience this? I will look underneath my glovebox and try unplugging this if the noise continues. It makes some sense b/c right now it seems to emit from the passenger side ceiling microphone, but will double check... Greg

2018 titanium cmax with 25,000 miles and just recently, started getting an audible (ear-piercing tone) whine that sounds like it's coming from the passenger-side interior seat/ceiling area). This is new and not the typical hybrid vehicle electric whirring/whine coming from the wheels or engine. This noise is faint, but is the perfectly wrong pitch to make it piercing and does not change with speed. Thanks for any relief, Greg

Stevem7, Your dealer should have access to Ford's "help line" which allows them to collaborate with other shops and ford specialists that have fought the same issues. Basically, pretty much every "problem" with these cmaxes has now been seen. Took ours a while to sort out a parasitic electrical drain on our 2017 cmax, but eventually took this route to win (fingers crossed). Greg

Both our 2017 energi and 2018 hybrid have tire noise. Both also have rusty grinding/pulsing noise very noticeable at low speeds. Both cars have had rotors replaced/milled and eventually both began doing it again. I suspect yours is rotor related. These cmax rotors rust and "pulse" often, especially after sitting for more than a day. I figure as long as ours don't get worse with speed (i.e. wheel bearing noise) and MPG stays consistent, I'm starting to ignore the noise. Greg

Fingers crossed for a good outcome. Please let us know the diagnosis and outcome. Greg

If you're referring to the Bosch, I'm sure it's an OEM equivalent with comparable air flow. Greg

7-year old 12v is a decent run, but one dying on me would warrant a replacement. I'm not as anal as a coworker who replaces theirs every 3 years regardless. : 0 Greg

Some of the cmaxes are known to have a parasitic draw on the 12V battery; usually a software update/change fixes it (earlier models are more plagued, but even 2017s; there might be a tsb for it, but it's known within the dealer-help lines). Generally, driving-to-recharge a battery usually takes driving the vehicle (with ICE) for around 20 minutes at or above 40mph. Greg

Both jobs are not hard, but are way more tedious than they need to be (especially when compared to most where it's two spring clips and you're done). I do wonder if "engineering" like this is intentional to deter DIY or simply the last thing figured out due to zero pre-planning. Greg

24,000 miles and just replaced mine today (annually) and it is a PITA. What's worse with mine is the refrigerant lines interfere with the cabin air filter pop-door-panel, so getting that thing back on is the worst ever and I don't bother with the retaining screw anymore. I also did the engine air filter (first time), but coulda/shoulda waited another 5,000 miles as it is tedious with requiring about 20 steps. And, as usual, I lost one screw-retainer; so, under and off with the undercowling to retrieve that. Both jobs completed, but both are horribly engineered for access. Greg

Filter is good (changed regularly) and I've tried various iterations, including recirc only, LO only, always with all vents open. I'll test it for one more week and likely drop it at the dealer...again. Greg