Billyk24

Interesting but...do they have the ability to read Ford Software to ensure all is working correctly? How much experience do these installers have doing battery replacements.

Heat is the issue. Heat comes from just driving in any mode and especially when driving in EV mode, heat comes from charging. heat comes from driving at higher speeds -going up hills or placing excess amps on the battery pack heat comes from regenerating braking, heat comes from just sitting in the sunny parking lot. The Energi has an inept thermal regulatory system and can't cool the battery pack in an adequate manner. The air cooled battery pack works poorly in warmer weather even with the air conditioning at full blast at 60f it can not cool the battery pack. I seen it first hand with my third party hardware that monitors such. Living in a warm part of the country is worse for the battery pack than living where winter exists for four months a year. It is best to use EV driving in slow traffic conditions and in piece meal fashion to preserve the battery pack. The warranty does not cover degradation. Don't expect the dealership's service manager to be up to date on electric vehicles or the Energi unless the personally own one.

Hold on now! Wait until others have had success in pairing the new part with the Ford software. there are multiple users on Facebook that are frustrated and unable to do so. Little or no dealer support in being able to resolve such an issue.

I don't fill my electic tank up and the guess o meter reads 47 miles to empty. There, don't go by the miles of range as it is does not fully reflect range. Heat is the primary factor for degradation of the battery pack capacity. Driving excessively in EV mode--as in drive until it is empty-will drive the battery temperature up and frequently into unhealthy The battery pack likes to sit at 77f plus or minus 6f. Once the battery pack is too warm like in the 90's, the vehicle is unable to quickly cool itself. Easy to see such when you use third party hardware that monitors battery temperature, amps, SOC and other. It is not wise to fully charge the battery pack and let it sit. Nor is it wise to let the battery pack run down to zero on a regular basis. IT is better to charge in a step fashion in that the car can cool awhile before recharging upward further. Just sitting in the summer sum will heat the battery pack up to unhealthy levels.

The degradation of the kWh capacity is common for many owners who do not realize what is happening while they drive it. It is highly related to the inept thermal regulatory system that relies upon the cabin air for cooling purposes. Those of us with data monitoring in real time realize how poorly this vehicle can regulate the battery temperature. Hypermiling, excessive charging, just sitting in the warm summer sun all contribute to this loss in kWh capacity.

Re-look at the data: the drive was 15.5 miles total as shown in the right upper hand corner. Next to that figure is EV 62%. Errr....Driving in EV NOW is suppose to be 100% EV. The fuel mpg should be ....well if it is all electric then why does it say 71.9 mpg? Sooo....was the test done in EV NOW? EV AUTO? Was it done in EV AUTO for 15.5 miles with regenerative braking adding a bit of charge and capacity to the battery pack during the 15 miles. with the real capacity less than that?

IT is called BS selling. You, not them, must do the test. It must be done in EV NOW which is different from EV AUTO or EV LATER. Go back can demand to drive the vehicle and perform the test yourself. If they refuse, Walk away. A RAV4 hybrid-more easily found on dealer lots and the other car I owe-may provide almost as good as MPG without playing games trying to keep the battery cool.

You must perform the battery capacity test on the Energi to find out how much the battery has degraded. Yes, heat degrades the battery and the battery heats to unhealthy levels just sitting in the summer sun. The Energi does not have an adequate thermal regulatory system to manage safe battery temperature during the warmer months of the year. A search will reveal on how to perform this simple battery capacity test that has to be done in EV now.

The battery capacity test is what you are referring to the second post. 1. Charge to full 2. switch to EV NOW--this is the middle switch between EV Auto and EV Later and prevents ICE from starting in 99% of cases 3. Drive until the ICE kicks on-you can drive up a mountain, drive 60 miles per hour, etc as we are looking for #4 4. When the ICE kicks look at the dash to find the kWh consumed. At new, 5.6KWh is considered the "usable" amount for a new battery pack. You are testing for the usable amount of the battery pack. All automakers provide a "walled off" top and bottom portion of their battery pack in an attempt to enhance longevity. Some provide a minimum buffer such as Tesla which explains why they frequent refer to owners should only charge up to 80% of capacity on a regular basis. Miles per range is really meaningless as MG2 contributes to range. Heck, my Energi reports 47 miles to empty and I do not fully charge my battery pack. Heat is the biggest degrader of battery pack capacity. Heat comes from excessive EV usage, excessive EV charging, continuous high speed, high amp loads being placed upon the battery pack, normal summer temperatures, just sitting in the summer sun with the car off can raise the battery temperature to unhealthy levels. You need to monitor the battery pack temperature, amps used, state of charge via third party hardware or FordScan software in an attempt to minimize issues. The Energi does not have an adequate thermal regulatory system to keep the battery pack cells at a safe temperature during the warm summer months. Do drive the car with the engine ON during the warm summer months in an attempt to minimize heat buildup and unhealthy battery temperatures.

There's also no way to really check battery capacity with them either.--not an accurate statement. The Professor (Raj) of the Energi version always stated the capacity can be checked by filling the HVB up, driving in EV now mode only and when it "runs out", you stop and check for the kWh capacity used. Energi models owned in the warm states, those driven by owners bragging about high mpg are likely to have a significantly degraded capacity due to the Energi's inept thermal regulatory system. Of course, this does not apply to just the Hybrid version.

Traction Battery State-of-Charge 0745224923 046285490623 3010 007D20000000 SOC % try the above.

Try the Escape Hybrid coding.

I have two scanguages in my CMax and it reads the state of charge every day. Can't remember if I just moved my scanguage' from my Escape Hybrid to the CMax without changing anything.

» Ford – Lincoln – Mercury (scangauge.com) is the link.

Could be the car was "off-the 12V battery" for some time and is starting from ground zero. It has no memory of your previous mpg and driving. Since the vehicle was in the shop for nearly a month and a half, the weather has changed also contributing to what you are asking. Furthermore, it you have a code reader, what exactly were the codes? That can tell a lot.