13max

Ok, so after I was unsuccessful in finding one I found out through multiple dealers that this part is shipped out of Sacramento. I asked my local ford Dealer and they have placed the order.....In the meantime I reviewed the code P0C28 - Electric/Aux Trans Fluid Pump A Motor Current High....I used a mirror to look at the contacts in side the male end of the connection attached to the pump and noticed green corrosion on on male end pin 1 and 4.....I cleaned these off, taking care not to bend any pins( and without taking the pump off the vehicle, man was this awkward ), added a little Di electric grease and reassembled. I purposely did not clear the codes and left the Check engine light on I checked all 3 settings....E/V auto, EV and EV later were all available. I drove it around last night about 30 miles in total periodically checking the 3 settings (E/V auto, EV and EV later) and they were still available. After I stopped to get gas I started the car and the Check engine light was off as it must not have seen the same error code after so many miles. Drove it this morning and no check engine light and all 3 settings still available. Hoping the build up of corrosion was causing the intermittent connection and this has solved it for now.? I would like to thank GSMacLean for offering your diagnostics from your experience, which greatly helped me with Part # and a starting point as to where to look for the issue. I will update over the next couple days, weeks.

Yes, It is locked in Auto mode. it drives fine so I will just have to get use to the check engine light on...I will check the codes daily just in case something else pops up...Again thanks for your help, Very Much appreciated

Yep, Part availability is horrible.....May I ask where you purchased the 2 you managed to find? Thanks, Corby

Thanks for the tip and I did confirm via Vin # but at this point not sure if I will get the part. My question is, is the car still drive able short distance? The only option is Auto (EV and EV later are disabled. I will let you know if I am successful in getting the part. Thanks, Corby

Have been reading your problem, problem solving and resolution to your problem......Great stuff! I am having issues now with my 2013 Cmax Energi and think it may be the same problem. Codes that I get are: Code: P0C2A - Electric/Auxiliary Transmission Fluid Pump A Motor Stalled Code: P0C2C - Electric Transmission Fluid Pump Control Module Feedback Signal Range/Performance Will first try and clean the connections to the Aux Trans Pump. Thanks, Corby

Hi Cr08, Thank you for taking the time to explain and confirm this....I checked the code that comes up and you are right with one or more cells that are most likely degraded. The code that comes up is BECM P0DE1:00-28 Code: P0DE1 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit N Stuck On and then I think the screen said cell balancing in progress. Since I have owned this from day 1 I have tried to prolong the integrity of the battery as you mentioned above but I think the hills portion I was not as good with. I am not ready to throw in the towel on the car just yet, will still drive it with care and fun but knowing its tendencies is very helpful. Thanks for all your help troubleshooting! Corby

Hi Cr08, Ok, I have another question for you, When I go up a moderate to higher grade hill the Wrench light comes on(halfway up the hill) and then the ICE takes over and options For EV no longer exist. I will have to drive home only on the ICE? This trigger of the wrench light only happens in EV mode and always if I have the heater in the cabin on. Any thoughts? Thanks again, Corby

Cr08, Thanks for your reply and this gives me a good starting point. My car is an Energi(2013). Yes I had the issue with water getting into the wiring harness of the Engine Coolant Water Pump last year. I have checked this harness and completely dry so I will continue to trouble shoot based on your feedback. Thank you for your reply. Corby

Thanks for posting Obob. I don't believe these are related but I do know the sound when C-Max performing fuel system evaporation leak test. Thanks again, Corby

Ok, Hoping someone here can help and maybe has solved this problem themselves. I will drive home, park the car and I will hear at the front of the car a pump still running and what sounds like a relay click on/off in the engine compartment fuse box? The pump and clicking with continue until the battery voltage drops to9.6 v at which point the car goes into deep sleep to save the battery... My battery was replaced last year(2021) I checked the codes and this is what comes up.... ===SOBDMC DTC P0C2C:00-26=== Code: P0C2C - Electric Transmission Fluid Pump Control Module Feedback Signal Range/Performance ===SOBDMC DTC P2533:62-2E=== Code: P2533 - Ignition Switch On/Start Position Circuit Any help would be great! Thanks, Corby

Ok So I have been tracking a parasitic Drain for the past 2 months or so. What I found is that when I park the car, turn ignition off and set lock the doors, I will leave it for 2-3 hours and then I would get a 12v Battery is low notification from the app. After numerous times of the battery draining and having to jump the car to get it going agian I have tried something that has eliminated the drain so I am hoping to get some feedback from the crowd here on potential problems.... I have replaced the coolant pump as the first place I looked and the water in the connector was an issue so I replaced both. If I pull fuse 71 (10amp) (Heating control head (manual air conditioner), Climate control module) in the fuse panel below the glove box the battery is stable and lasts overnight at 12.0. (I am pretty sure the battery has sulfated after many drains down to 8.0) When I put the fuse back in and leave it, the drain comes back. Is it a module or is it the climate control panel? I see in Forscan that there is an option to reset modules? Anyone think this would help? Thanks, Corby

I did unfortunately did not do this(reset the battery) three years ago on my 2013 Energi. Original lasted for 5 and bit years. Do you think if I did this now for a battery that is 3 years old? Its gone through a few discharges already this winter. Current specs in Forscan says my battery is 7 years old.

Ok, Again, thank you for your input as always. Very much appreciated by me and others!

Hey Plus. I am still having similar problems with my Battery draining. In Forscan, How can one check the SOC of the battery? I was wondering if you could send me the link where you explained how to reset the battery age perameter in my 2013 Cmax Energi. I am considering replacing my batter but your explanation in your previous post makes me think I should try charging the battery up before getting a new one. Current battery is 3 years old. Thanks!

Hey Plus 3 Golfer, just wanted to update you on the trouble shoot. I have attached pics of the problem and as you eluded to, water in the connection. So I blew of both sides and dried it up, used a little dielectric grease. Took the car out for a 15 km trip both in Electric and EV later and so far so good. Wrench light and Check engine light are both off and codes are gone. Have a look at the pics. Thanks for your help, really appreciate it. I will take the car out again later today.

Really appreciate the help! I remembered I picked up a ford Cmax wiring manual when I purchased the car.(see Attached images) Its almost like they knew a wiring short will happen and they put it in the manual.....but I do understand when parts rub, they can wear. I will be checking the wiring harness and associated stuffs today. Thanks again for your expertise and the attachment you sent earlier! Will update later.

Yes, there these communication DTC's listed. Thank you again for your insight. I will definitely get one of the service manuals as I like to figure to learn and trouble shoot. Let me know what you think of the codes below. PCM Code: U0284 - Lost Communication with Active Grille Air Shutter Module A Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: U019F - Lost Communication With Engine Coolant Pump Control Module Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P2601 - Coolant Pump A Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P0562 - System Voltage Low Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P26D0 - Engine Coolant Pump Control Module System Voltage Low Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P26CA - Engine Coolant Pump Control Circuit / Open Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module

Hi Plus 3 golfer, I read your posts and replies and am super impressed with your knowledge. You help alot of owners with their questions! I took your advice an ran Forscan some codes came up. I had the issue with the battery drain again and once again the fan at the front grill was on again(You eluded to the cabin cooler heater pump) so I pulled fuse 71 for the Heater controls and I have let the car sit for 3 days not plugged in and the 12 v battery is stable @ 12.1 v. I ran forscan and there are some codes related to Voltage below threshold. Here are the two codes that i am mainly concerned about OBDII Code: P26D0 - Engine Coolant Pump Control Module System Voltage Low Status: - Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed Module: On Board Diagnostic II OBDII Code: P26CA - Engine Coolant Pump Control Circuit / Open Status: - Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed Module: On Board Diagnostic II Any help would be great as always from anyone.

Perfect....Thanks for the reply golfer! Either way, the problem is solved...(touch Wood) and for the past week with temps below 32 F the battery is holding @ 12.10 v

Did you ever find a fix for your backup camera?

Hi All, I had for the first time my 12 volt battery go dead, or actually the car went to deep sleep mode to protect the battery. Events that lead up to my 2013 Cmax energi battery problems was once the onset of colder weather started and when I used heated seats and heater going up hill under load in EV mode the wrench light would come on. When I got home, parked the car usually a couple hours later the battery would be discharged down to 8 v. After a couple of weeks of Jumping with my little pack I had a few days off to do some diagnosis....I found it odd that each time I turned the car off, let it sit, Battery drained to 8 v, used jump pack and restarted, the wrench light disappeared until I used heat or the EV button......at which point the wrench light would reappear. I knew there had to be a parasitic draw somewhere but could not figure it out.......until....I dropped my keys as I walked in front of the car, bent down to pick them up and that is when I heard a whirling noise.....I didnt know what it was but it sounded like when I preheat the car, it was the same noise.....Anyways.....I pulled the fuse for the Heater controls, waited 5 minutes to re-insert and VOILA, that solved my parasitic drain! Place your ear just above your front plate and listen for any electrical noise....this may or may not be the issue but its worth a shot!