bigqueue

The one of the four that did not fail looked like it had done slightly less highway miles than the others....but that is tough to say....they look so close. 5138 (No Failure): 5139: Transmission Replacement (next VIN to non-repair) 8698: Had Transmission Replaced 2158: Had transmission replaced

I am a new to me owner and I suffer the same issue. I have not dug into it even as much as you as it has been cold as of late when i get going, but i will have to dig in.

The way I read this initially, I thought you had a physical reaction to changing the bulbs....the i saw you went to discount tire rather than the doctor and it came clear to me. ?

I have filled up a few times now, and yes indeed, the car is perhaps 10% over optimistic on fuel mileage. I appreciate why they can't measure it perfectly, and why the error will likely go up as the volume decreases.....but it was a slight bummer to see mpg over 40 come out just under 40, even is by only 0.1MPG. But I am still a happy camper.

BTW: This is a great website with information on Lithium Ion Batteries and how they are affected by all sort of stimulus. (heat, charge/discharge rates, imbalance, SOC, etc....) Here is a particular article on what affects battery life, but there are plenty of other articles that teach all about batteries. https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/batteries_will_eventually_die_but_when_and_how Here is an article on heat: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_heat_and_harsh_loading_reduces_battery_life

One thing I have always wondered is whether plug-in car drivers understood the "sweet spot" for their plus in batteries. Lithium Ion batteries don't like a few things....first, they don't like heat. I think the Ford products take care of this, unlike Nissan with the Leaf. (but it really only is an issue if you are in a HOT temperature state) The second thing LION batteries do not like is HIGH State of Charge, or LOW State of Charge. I can see how a plug-in driver could charge their battery to 100% and just leave it there. That is not a great state for a LION battery.....just as discharging it to below 30%....another state it is not happy with. I would think the car software would keep that low voltage condition out of your range of possibilities....but I am not sure if you could run the car in electric only mode and run the battery down that low.....charging to 100% seems totally possible though. I assume your difference in MPG is also seen in the amount of miles you drive on ICE vs Electric...I mean you must obviously see that going way up too....if not, then could it be that the engine has suddenly gotten WAY inefficient for some reason. (just a thought...messed up injectors, etc....) Is there a way to get the car battery controller to spit out each of the cell voltages in the battery pack? It would be interesting to see if there are massive cell imbalances when the battery is charged vs discharged, and/or whether there are some all together "dead" cells. (I doubt that because I think dead cells would actually be dangerous and / or cause a very high cell resistance.....which might well be what is going on....losing power inside the battery itself in cell resistance.

I will start off by saying that I would be extremely careful with this because even if this is NOT the same problem, I would wonder if someone who owned this car might not have "cut some corners" after having the actual transmission issue and had a local yokal pull the transmission and do a local "fix". (and perhaps messing up something else in the process. Transmission noises are not typically a good thing.... But regarding your original question, this is EXACTLY what the TSB states, and given what is says regarding a stationary vehicle, I would say it is NOT the same issue......but still, it might be an issue! Here is the TSB wording: (and link: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148717-9999.pdf) Just make sure you get an absolutely great deal and be prepared to get the transmission repaired. If you like to gamble, this might be something to roll the dice on. I am not sure I would. (also, how much do you trust the writer of the TSB to fully describe the issue)

Indeed it does....you can see it by the direction of the arrow on the battery fullness gauge. When the battery is being charged, the arrow is over the + side of the battery icon.

Here is the TSB on the problem......the key date is that the car be built AFTER August 15th, 2015. My 2016 was built Jan 2016, so I hope to have slipped under the wire. Good luck.... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148717-9999.pdf -Quentin

Thanks for that attachment.....this will be a great read! -Quentin

I cheated and just used Google Maps in bicycle more....using roads that runs parallel to the highways. -Quentin

Well, I took a short highway trip today to Cabelas which is about 31 miles from home and I think is a pretty good test of how hills influence mileage. After all the reading about maximizing MPG, I went with a 65MPG trip using ECO Cruise Control.....and here is a representation of the elevation differences between where I live and Cabelas: On the way there: (Car says I got 51.8 MPG) On the way back:(Car says I got 38.9 MPG) I don't remember all the other numbers.....but this alone was a good lesson regarding how the car cruise control regulates speed and drives efficiently. As was noted there was a fair bit of Electric "boost" of ICE driving, but even more apparent, the car was very gentle on the accelerator....in BOTH Electric or GAS mode. Don't worry.....I will not bore you with every little thing I find....and besides, it will all be second nature and boring to me at some point. ? -Quentin

I have the same car.....a 2016 without Sync3, and my Android phone will not get enough current to charge....it seems to slow the discharge, but that doesn't really cut the mustard when my phone is low. It looks like a cigarette lighter USB charger is in my future. I like this one.....everyone in the car can get pretty good power to their devices if they have long enough cords. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Dual-Port-Charger-Adapter-Android/dp/B071ZKZV8M/ref=sxin_0_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDEw-ac_d_pm&crid=1X1R26O3HFL1V&cv_ct_cx=car%2Busb%2Bcharger&keywords=car%2Busb%2Bcharger&pd_rd_i=B072C7R4CD&pd_rd_r=9499b89f-b0a3-4e4f-ad3a-a0f34d8a3374&pd_rd_w=lMifn&pd_rd_wg=NLlMN&pf_rd_p=ef07af27-e48f-451d-ab63-8b6b216a0bc3&pf_rd_r=7YKSMQM6NSZ04WSTM2WG&qid=1579481100&sprefix=car%2BUSB%2B%2Caps%2C150&th=1 I just ordered it.....

Thanks for the links, I am looking across the site for discussions, and this makes it a lot easier to get right to them. What I mean by "Warm-up" is simply getting the propulsion system to a temperature high enough to allow the EV to operate. I think that is a matter of getting the engine water temperature high enough to get the batteries warm so that can take a charge. (And to a point, deliver a charge) My main reason for getting a high mileage car is to lower my overall costs.....I am thinking in terms of cost of commute, but really I care about total costs. So I do think of the costs of pre-heating as part of my calculus. (Just as I would for the use of premium fuel and so forth.) Oh, but cost goes far further than just cents per mile, but also longevity of the platform because one of the largests single costs was the purchase of the car....so if something would allow the vehicle to "last longer" (I have kept my past 7 cars past 200,000 miles) than I am all in on that too. So perhaps these block heating pre-heats will help with that, though I am not convinced. (And I certainly don't have that ability at work, so coming home would not benefit from the strategy) Thanks for the pointers as I geek out on all this information and love to "learn and know"......you never know when something might become very useful in the future. (oh, and I don't poo-poo block heaters....I had one on my diesel Rabbit because it was essential to get it started in a 15 below morning situation) Thanks, -Quentin

I will check out BLUEDRIVE.....between that and FORSCAN, I think all my needs might be more than covered! Thanks, -Quentin

Thanks.....I saw the posts about the FORscan APP, and I did see mention of the OBDII BT adaptor. The FORSCAN website talk about needing and ELM327 OBDII/Bluetooth interface, and I happen to have one or two of them already! (NOT sure if they are Rev 1.3 or above) Also, I am not sure how they relate to the OBDII BT, but perhaps Google can help me with that when I have a bit more time to look. Thanks! -Quentin

Very cool....this looks to be EXACTLY what I used to have for my VW back in the say, except of course a lot more capable given the years that have passed. I will certainly look closely at this and try it out. Thanks! -Quentin

I did find the discussion above in this post......but I wonder if there are other hidden jewels behind a few strategic button sequencing.... -Quentin

I was reading a Blog post about Tips and Tricks, and one of the paragraphs talked about a diagnostic test mode that one can supposedly bring up on car power-up: I have not tried this yet....but will tomorrow. Has anyone found any others, and are they documented on the forum anywhere? -Quentin

So using your numbers, at 30MPG, 1/12th of a gallon is 2.5 miles. I don't know what the ICE gets for mileage during warm-up, and I don't know how many miles it takes to get "warmed up". (I suppose that depends on the outside temperature too) But you can see that if the 30MPG is reasonable, and if the car gets to warmed up state within 2.5 miles, then just letting the engine to the work is more efficient.....and the miles only go up if the warm-up MPG goes up. I have had my car for less than a day, so I don't have any good feeling for warm-up time......but to me, the important thing is overall efficiency. (though I understand that isn't as good for my MPG bragging ? -Quentin

I installed the FordPASS app for my phone with the thought that I would be able to "do things" with my car....even just get status or location from it, but it seems that Ford stopped all that and there does not seem to be any real utility with that app related to the actual car. Am I missing anything? Is there any other way to "connect" to the car to get information from and to it? My old 2013 Honda Fit EV was a lot more "connected"...I guess I expected the CMAX to be a little more similar to it than my old 2008 Scion. (Which had no wiz-bang connectivity at all :-) -Quentin

Do you think the cost of the extra power used by the block heater is worth the savings you see in increased fuel economy? I suppose one might also claim it might also increase longevity I suppose, but even that would be difficult to quantify. As to gas savings reflected in MPG, I guess it would depend upon how many hours your heater was on before drive time. Also, I would think it would become less of an impact on MPG the longer the drive was. (average MPG over the drive) -Quentin

I am no lawyer, but from what I read in this, this is all to be covered by the standard Hybrid Warrantee which I think was 8 years or 100K miles which ever comes first. This is the paragraph that I read in the TSB that leads me to think this: Warranty Status: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. But the key to all this is the August 15th, 2015 post manufacture date.....as I read the TSB, buying a vehicle after that date will get you a "good" transmission. Of course, if you buy one prior to this that has already had it's transmission fail and fixed, and I suppose you are all set as well.....so long as the repair wasn't to put some used unit it that itself was in the pre-Aug 15, 2015 vintage and had also NOT been "repaired". I guess vehicle history is sort of important in all this. I am a new to CMAX user....only in my first day....so I don't know that I am an "expert" in any of this....so take heed of that.... ? -Quentin PS: I love my CMAX Hybrid so far.....I as loving the learning curve to driving efficiency!

I've never heard the term, but from what I see, they are just another form of chain....perhaps lower profile I guess. From the photos in the article below, they seem to come in different forms, and one looks to be almost a cloth of some sort...not sure. But I would say that type does not look like one that can stay on all the time and have the durability to do significant highway miles. They also look to be just as difficult to put on as chains, so they don't look like quick thing to add should the snow fly and you need them to get out of a situation. For that, I like the idea of those quick to put on tire sized "zip ties"...but they are short term too, but might get you unstuck should a heavy snow hit Here is the snow sock article: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2016/01/snow-traction-when-you-need-it/index.htm Here is the Zip Tie think I described, but it still looks like a nightmare.....but I still might think about getting snow tires...