Hybrid dude

Since a lot of time has gone by since the date of my original post, and there are many more C-Max owners, I'd like to know if anyone has further thoughts on this topic of using an Energi but never plugging it in.

Thanks

Thanks

Yes, the Stanley Simple Start enables it to come back to life in about 3 minutes, plugged into the rear cargo area 12V outlet.

After this many years, I'm pessimistic, as I don't really think Ford will ever discover the cause.

I now have almost 30K miles and just for fun, went to my servicing dealer this afternoon to learn how little it is worth.  (SE base model, no options)

Answer is $11,000 towards a 2014 Hybrid or Energi. I had hoped this trade in idea wouldn't have cost more than a few grand, when you include state rebates, etc.

Guess I'll try plan B or C, those being continue with it until 75K miles or Oct. 2017, whichever comes first, or pursue a legal battle.

(I've had multiple dead vehicle problems but Ford refused a buyback.)

Yes, I've thought about a new 2014 Energi with all the rebate, tax deductions, state rebate, etc.. My dealer has a few on the lot which, from the window sticker code, were made in August.

Thanks for advice, no, not hired a lawyer, don't really want to spend that kind of time. Going to another dealer would be a hassle, haven to explain entire story, etc.

If Ford had agreed to buyback, the lemon law here, plus the almost 30K miles I have on the vehicle would have resulted in a large amount of money deducted for 'use'. I have considered trading in for a 2014 C-Max, which as you may know has a large incentive now and might be an almost equivalent price with rebates, trade-in, etc.

And dead vehicle again just now, 3 min. on the simple start, back in action. All voltage back to normal, clock was a few hours off, as last time NPI.

Cost me about $500 total, but I basically got this TSB done myself. Pigtail off fdmotorparts and the coolant pump off... Amazon.. Strangely enough. Labor was about $200. The last check off Ford paid for it, so I see it as awash. I had about 5 dead car experiences, and none since I got this done in Sept. If you really want to check that connector, it's hot, so disconnect the 12v in the trunk first. The connector is blue and on the passenger side front of the engine just above that engine bay splash guard under the car.

 

http://www.fordfusionclub.com/showthread.php?t=618641

 

For what it's worth, I'm waiting on the VW bluemotion 1.6TDI to show up over here. 60+ mpg and no more messing about.

 

Good luck.

Thanks

I'm glad you've had no more incidents but, for rational or maybe irrational reasons, I'm hesitant to do that self-TSB. Maybe I should, since I have that Ford refund money.

As the OP of this topic, I had the pleasure of my 5th (or maybe 6th, as I've lost count) dead vehicle incident the other morning, as usual, after a night parked in my spot. Thanks to the Stanley simple start, I was up and running after only three minutes of charge into the cargo area 12V outlet. I was lucky, since the Stanley start had only about 20% full charge. My plug-in voltmeter indicated normal conditions once the vehicle was back up and running. When the vehicle was dead, the meter displayed nothing.

As a side note, I did request a buyback from Ford, which was denied because it didn't meet Mass. lemon laws, or something like that. I was offered a little peace of mind insurance (won't go into detail) but know it would only cover non-battery related problems, since it makes no difference when I have these dead-vehicle issues.  They won't authorize a check of the coolant pump connectors because it is not a known fix, and I'm not going to pay myself either.

As I've stated before, I really like a lot of things about the C-Max, handling, acceleration, room especially in the back seat, etc., but may leave the fold. I really didn't like other hybrid choices a few years ago, and don't know if I can ever go back to a non-hybrid. My overall MPG is only about 36, despite using various hypermiling techniques. The most recent tank was about 32, but remember it's getting cold in these parts.

I still have a hard time, despite other members explanations, that I have  that low an overall MPG, even with more than a third of my almost 30K miles on electric. 

If anyone can recommend another vehicle, feel free. I've even considered getting a 2014 C-Max, since there are quite a few rebates/incentives, it might be worth it.  

Frustrated.

I purchased one of those volt meters. 

Results:

When I stand next to the driver door and look through the window and unlock the vehicle using the fob, it reads 11.7, then goes to 12.2 after I open the door and enter. 

When I start, it fluctuates in the 14 neighborhood, and I have seen it at 15.

Thoughts?

Yes, I wondered about step 5, since I have a hybrid, but I have to draw the line somewhere. Though I have no evidence, I'm sure they're very enthusiastic when they see me drive in ... not.

Dealer still has not received new module, as per TSB 14-0155. It's been 7 days. Hard to believe but luckily I have a rental.

Car back this afternoon, new Control Assembly-Mobile Phone part no. DM5Z-19K350-B list price $190.71. 

They had to replace the front door panels. Now this has turned into another fight. They replaced the leather panels with cloth. They are claiming my leather panels were wrong, but that is how I bought it. Working on this issue with them. 

I noticed a very annoying creak when pressing my left elbow ever so slightly on the driver's door panel a few inches behind the aluminum grab handle (the place one would normally place one's elbow). I don't think I was being too picky or expecting too much, but long story short, I too received a non-matching gray cloth piece as the new part and, as is the case many times after a dealer visit, was the only one that noticed. Of course, it doesn't match my other panels. So, they removed it, took a few photos and will consult their gurus. I hope to have a matching set eventually.

Just spoke with regional customer service manager, who indicated a new TSB came out last Wednesday, TSB 14-0155 which supposedly is another attempt at resolving battery issues. I haven't seen that particular TSB mentioned here yet. I was able to secure a rental vehicle this time and did ask her to ask them to check the coolant pump connectors as well.

Dealer still has not received new module, as per TSB 14-0155. It's been 7 days. Hard to believe but luckily I have a rental.

Yes, I recall the display indicating 'battery too low'. Wouldn't the 12V battery in normal condition be able to power the radio for longer than a few minutes, like perhaps hours, and thus is this a clue to the mystery, or am I forgetting something?

Ok, thanks

I'll add another interesting electrical observation regarding my radio. On several occasions, I've driven to pick up someone and had to wait for them, so I shut off the car but still had the radio on. After what I thought was a rather short period of time, the radio turned off by itself and I think there was some wording in the display regarding 'battery low' but I don't remember. I never timed these periods but perhaps they were around 15-20 minutes. 

Am I expecting too much for the radio to play for a longer amount of time without turning the key to accessory position? I really don't remember, but I may have actually had to blip the key into start, and then turn off again. I have the base SE with no options, no touch screen.

Just spoke with regional customer service manager, who indicated a new TSB came out last Wednesday, TSB 14-0155 which supposedly is another attempt at resolving battery issues. I haven't seen that particular TSB mentioned here yet. I was able to secure a rental vehicle this time and did ask her to ask them to check the coolant pump connectors as well.

I have a 2103 SE with 11,000 miles on it. I want to trade it because it is too small to carry everything my wife takes with us when go to our summer home. So far here in central PA the Ford dealer where I got the C-Max offered $13,000 for it on a 2015 Explorer and this is the highest offer I have received. The local Chevrolet dealer said they would not take the C-Max on trade stating that they were all junk and tould me to go elsewhere, I told them where to go and left.

 

This has been a great car and gets 48-49 mpg on our trips from PA to NC and has not had any problems.

Sorry to learn of your trade in estimate experience. 

Perhaps you've thought of this solution to your cargo dilemma, but we ship, as well as have shipped from online retailers, quite a few things to our summer destination.

Nice to know it comes with a 110 cord and aware of communal electricity consequences, the depiction of which would perhaps make a funny New Yorker cartoon.

salman Thanks for your advice.

Thanks for the advice. It's a condo and yes, I have an assigned outside spot. I also do a lot of work with the association. I'm sure if I wanted a charging station, I could convince the trustees, but I would have to pay the entire bill, which, from various electrician's quotes, will be thousands, not including the actual charging unit.

Would there be any point in getting an Energi if one doesn't have an easy way to plug it in, for example, living in an apartment building?

In other words, can an Energi recharge itself, simply by driving and braking, and thus be able to go 20+ miles on EV without being plugged in?

Or, would it require so many more driving miles to charge that the savings wouldn't be worth it?

Disregard cargo space and price for this hypothetical situation.

Not sure about the glue or tape, as it was not listed on the receipt.

I too am now experiencing the creaking. It's so weird, like driving an old ship. I have found that while driving slowly, if I open the driver's door an inch or so, it seems to dissipate, so it must relate to the door seals, yes? The dealer did lube them but it made no difference, and of course, I noticed no creak when test driving a new Energi on their lot.

 

I may be lucky enough to meet with an engineer in a few weeks, in which case I'll go over my lengthy list of suggestions.

The creaking is gone! The dealer replaced the following parts. The interior door panels were not replaced.

AM5Z 5820555 A door moulding outside

AM5Z 5820554 A door moulding outside

AM5Z 58255A35 A moulding

AM5Z 58255A34 A moulding

AM5Z 58255A35 B moulding door window frame

AM5Z 58255A34 B moulding door window frame

AM5Z 5825767 B run door glass

AM5Z 5825766 A weatherstrip door belt

AM5Z 5821597 A run door glass

AM5Z 5821596 B weatherstrip door glass

Just for fun, I added all the parts to the online Ford parts store:

 

Apply

Parts Subtotal: $906.39 Total: $906.39