Hybrid dude

I'll also add that my EV+ memory is gone, I think due to the fact that they removed the 12V battery for testing. You'd think the miniscule amount of power required to preserve EV+ memory could come from the lithium battery?

Lifetime stats: 1,013 miles, 488 EV, 88 Regen, 38mpg

Mostly city with very small percentage stop-n-go traffic, once per week 85 mile mostly highway trip.

New England weather, so only has been cool a couple of days.

 

Question: With almost half our miles EV and really very light on the accelerator, why only 38mpg?

Any idea what the mpg would be if car only had gasoline engine?

 

As is everyone, awaiting that magical 2-3k mileage for real results.

My mpg continues to falter. Only environmental difference is related to cold weather but I've kept the heat off a majority of the time.

Last fill up:

11.8 gallons

375.4 miles

= 31.8 mpg (display indicated 32.9 mpg)

Lifetime:

3,550.8 miles

1,607 EV

289 regen

37 mpg

About 75% of my miles are in areas of 40 mph or less. I realize the lower mileage is somewhat due to winter temps but could it also be related to the fact that the gasoline engine by itself is not as efficient as perhaps another engine made by Ford which would have had horsepower? Or, is it not that simple an answer?

That distance seems within range. Do you happen to travel by a Ford dealer, where you could see the beam spread/distance on another C-Max (obviously with just the parking lights and fogs illuminated)? As mtberman posted, it is a relatively small area just in front of the vehicle, in order to 'cut' under the fog.

I've resisted installing mud flaps because the ones on my previous car, a Volvo, were cracked and broken from innumerable scrapes and bumps on curbs, snow, etc.

However, after several highway drives in snow/sleet/rain, the hatch is really filthy, way more than than I would have expected. So, my question to those who've installed mud flaps and encountered those weather conditions, is whether their hatch remains relatively clean?

Had it checked at dealer this morning ... surprise ... everything normal, battery at 390 CCA (last time dead battery was 207 CCA).

Service person suggested to have it towed dead next time, just as was suggested to another member in a previous post. So, assuming it will happen again and location is reasonable, will do that. Both occurrences have been in my parking spot, after an overnight rest.

I have a plane Jane SE, no perceivable way to leave it on by mistake, no other devices plugged into outlets, etc.

Battery and entire car dead again this morning. Haven't found any obvious cause. Will be calling roadside, jump, etc.

That's great that they come back on, so kudos to Ford. My previous Volvo required a press of the switch each time to reactivate the fogs.

In retrospect, I'll withdraw my initial agreement to using shims to change the beam level. The light position/pattern was engineered to meet certain standards, as well as be effective when actually in foggy conditions. Also, if the beam was raised, situations with additional passengers and/or cargo in the back would raise the beam to an even higher, perhaps ineffective level.

Have you checked the alignment of the bumper cover, hood and fenders? My hood was out of alignment but the bumper cover has no adjustment.

Thanks for the info.

Yes, I'm describing the same plastic shroud, though in my case, it has no hole through which the foglight protrudes. I'm pretty sure it is attached in the same fashion, that being around the perimeter with a sort of tongue in groove every few inches. I don't think it's attached at all to the light itself.

I'm toying with the idea of going to a local aftermarket shop just to have them connect an HID bulb and ballast to see what happens electronically with the vehicle ... if the light works, if any codes appear, etc. Since the kits seem to be plug and play, it would seem a reasonable first step. The only fact of which I don't know is if a ground wire has to be attached somewhere on the frame but this must not be a big deal.

In my foglight installation quest, I was able to pop off part of the grill/cover by using several plastic knives. I picked a random spot, them inserted the knife end to pry it away a little, then inserted the thicker handle end to keep it in position. I did this at several spots and was able to gently pull off enough of the grill to enable a few photos to be taken of the inside. Again, I did not remove the entire grill. My guess is it would be best to remove the protective panel under the car, because upon reinstallation of the cover, I don't know how one could make sure the all the plastic parts on the cover were securely inserted into all the slots in the bumper. It would seem best to be able to guide those sections of the cover into the slots from behind the bumper cover, which I don't think you can do from the front. I may be wrong, though.

Since I don't have foglights, my inspection was to find out if the bumper cover had the required holes, which it does.

As to alignment, I'm sure you realize that fogs spread a wide, low beam to enable light to undercut the fog. I don't think there is a factory adjustment but the shim idea seems reasonable. I've had a lot of Mercedes-Benz with European spec headlights, on which you could adjust the foglight.

I do have two questions about the foglight operation:
1. Will the fogs illuminate with parking lights alone (no low beams)? If so, it would make shimming them much easier, as you could see the beam pattern.

2. Do the fogs shut off when high beam is activated? I think this is the law but since enacted have found it really annoying to have to turn back on the fogs each time. I understand the logic, in that high beams make it really difficult to see in fog, so if you need to turn them on, you couldn't possibly need fogs. However, many folks use fogs in non-foggy weather and when driving in the country, would find occasion to flip high beams on and off.




 

Good point about the instrument lighting consequences, if any. I'll check if there's a difference.

 

I'm totally in favor of using LEDs, as they appear as a more intense light, last longer and would save wear on low beam bulbs. I do think front-only DRLs, regardless of lamp type, are dangerous because there is no back or side illumination and creates a false sense of security ... I just don't get the rationale.

You're correct, covering the autolamps sensor does affect the instrument lighting, specifically by making them dimmer, as it would be at night. It is still bright enough for me, so I'm going to stick with it and enjoy the visibility provided by having parking and low beams on all the time. BTW, I now have a black mitten covering the sensor. It does the job, doesn't reflect light to the windshield, doesn't slide around, can be easily removed and is useful in case I lose a mitten :-)

There's another topic in this category entitled:

but it didn't work very well. Perhaps parking and turn signals would fare better?

Good point about the instrument lighting consequences, if any. I'll check if there's a difference.

I'm totally in favor of using LEDs, as they appear as a more intense light, last longer and would save wear on low beam bulbs. I do think front-only DRLs, regardless of lamp type, are dangerous because there is no back or side illumination and creates a false sense of security ... I just don't get the rationale.

As an experiment, I put three layers of blue painter's tape over the autolamps sensor, which is the squarish thing in the center of the dashboard very close to the base of the windshield and voila, lights on all the time. I'll most likely make some sort of better looking cover from a piece of whatever which I have around and if it's not matte black, paint it.

Arthur, don't get me started on fog lights (just kidding).

Your idea is interesting but not sure if you can get the electronics to function that way. The main reason I wouldn't do it, other than the wiring reason, is that the low beams are located higher on the vehicle itself, and are easier to see by oncoming vehicles, as well as and especially vehicles in front of you driving the same direction (can't think of a single word for them). Your vehicle will be more visible to the latter folks because when you are in traffic, for example, the closer you are to the vehicle in front of you, the less visible the fog lights will be in that person's rearview mirror, solely based on the height of the fog light.

On the other hand, Mercedes-Benz and some other brands now do have the DRLs, which are strips of LEDs, just about at the fog light level, so go figure. Even the C-Max in Europe has the strip just below the fog light. I think it's more for design than visibility but I have never done a conspicuity test.

BTW, joe, I love the funeral anecdote.

Great, thanks for the clarification and typing the data from the manual.

I think it was my mistake, referring to autolamps as automatic lights, which is incorrect.

No, not annoyed at all, just curious. I am fascinated by lighting standards in other countries and love to learn about them and sometimes convert my US model to have such standard, like fitting European headlights to 1970-1980s Mercedes-Benz models.

I'll check my owner's manual and other online resources and post if I find additional info.

I think you answered my question but here's how I interpret the features (please edit if necessary):

1. DRLs:

Canadian models do have this feature

Not manually controllable

Low beams only at reduced power

Works when light switch is in parking light or automatic light switch positions. (Thus doesn't work in off [first] or manual [third] positions)

2. Autolamps or Home-Lighting (How long after one shuts off the vehicle that the low beams remain illuminated)

This is manually controllable via the left display screen and can be set for various time delays, 30 seconds, 1 min. etc.

The SEL has the autolamps which is handy and they will go off automatically and we can adjust the time delay. 

I think we both know the distinction between Autolamps and Automatic lighting. My question to you only arose to clarify that there is not a manual setting for the Automatic lights feature ( light switch rotated all the way clockwise), which I thought you impied from the sentence I quoted above. I realize there 'is' one for the autolamps or home -lighting as I refer to it. Understand?

You mean the feature called 'home lighting'? The SE has that as well, same configurations. My use of the term 'automatic lighting' in this post was only in reference to lights illuminated while driving.

Thanks so much for the info.

I agree with the hazards which come with low beam only DRLs but didn't go into a long rant in my original post but I'd classify them in the 'What were they thinking and why do they still think this way" category.

I've had lots of Volvos which do automatically have parking and low beam lights on all the time (though one can cancel that feature), thus I was looking for and have found a way to do it in the C-Max. I appreciate your suggestion but just don't want to have to remember to turn them on and off all the time.

Congrats and thanks for the info. If you have a chance, I and I'm sure others would like to have more details as to exactly what lights are illuminated in DRL setting. Is it just the low beam headlights and if so, are they at full brightness or a reduced level? I assume you have the same four-position light switch as everyone else, so the DRLs must be controlled by the automatic light sensor, which decides based on how dark it is outside whether to have just the DRLs or add the parking ones as well. I'm a lighting nut, thus the detailed questions.

Also, I had a eureka moment last night in my quest to have DRLs. I'm going to find the location of the light sensor, which I think is on the dashboard and cover it with a piece of black tape ... and hopefully my wish to have the parking lights and low beams on all the time will come true. This idea is prevalent on a lot of other automotive forums across many brands.

The video version of the review can now be found on the right side nav bar:

http://www.motorweek.org/

Thanks for checking. I guess if you happen to be at a dealer prior to getting yours, you could know for sure, assuming they had one on the lot?

It seems from Bob999s post that the Ford version uses only the main beams, which is too bad, IMO.

Thanks for the input.

I've looked at the settings and haven't found that particular configuration.

Yes, it's all about cost. I'm glad Ford chose to make our models available now and hope LED and other features will be available down the road.

Hi MikeB-

Thanks for the nomination but until I find a less expensive set, I'll have to quote General Sherman "I will not accept if nominated and will not serve if elected."

Here's a link to the Latvian OEM one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2010-Xenon-Headlight-LEFT-OEM-/150788128575?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231bac3f3f&vxp=mtr

They have a 30-day you pay the shipping return policy. My previous price quote was a bit low, as two lights would cost $1,220.

Yes, I agree there are a wide variety of ballasts and bulbs for not too much money available. Since I have never seen them installed, I don't know if the ballast is contained within the housing. I can ask that question on the UK site.

Less expensive used lights do appear occasionally on eBay Germany. eBay UK would have the incorrect beam pattern, since they drive on the left.

I don't have the necessary electrical knowledge but I've seen discussions of voltage drop effecting other things, thus my mention of it. The bulbs do use fewer watts when illuminated but I think the initial amperage required to ignite them is more.

Can any Canadian member tell us if your C-Max has DRLs, aka Daytime Running Lights?

Here's a reasonable article about DRLs:

http://en.wikipedia....me_running_lamp

I wish it were possible to keep the lights on all the time automatically but if I leave the switch in non-automatic position, the parking lights never go out when the car is parked and locked. For the moment, I just switch it to non-automatic, then back to automatic when parked. Seems silly to do but in this season when the sun is low in the sky and it is beneficial to be seen by other motorist/pededestrians, the auto setting doesn't activate the headlights until it is rather dark outside.

It seems someone with a 2011 Focus was able to activate the DRLs by "IDS Programmer and the vehicles Smart Junction Box", coincidentally on a forum with a similar look to ours:

http://www.blueovalf...hts-activation/

Here's a recent article about the design of automotive lighting:

http://www.nytimes.c...to-be-seen.html

As I've noted in other posts, Ford has the technology available but how they decide on which model(s) to use that tech is a mystery. For example, the new Escape has LED DRLs in the lower section of the headlight and several other models use LED bulbs/housings in various places. The C-Max, which could benefit from less electrical use, only uses LEDs in the interior lighting.