nogoodbum

Ask yourself, am I comfortable with changing the fluid at 120k or 150k? Will it help at 120k? Maybe, maybe-not. Will it hurt to go to 150k? Again, maybe, maybe-not. What really counts is what results in you feeling good about your level of upkeep. I changed mine at 100k, despite the manual calling for 150k, 2013 SEL, mostly because it was what I felt good about based on my personal experience from 40+yrs of car upkeep. Trusting your gut may help and in this case is doubtful to hurt. The oil changes a 3k by a lot of folks is a holdover from 30+yrs ago, and a lot of people will not change what works for them. Thanks for the read.

Hi, 2013 SELhybrid. I have been getting noise like a couple of coins in a metal piggy bank when driving over bumps or rough patches at lower speeds [5-30mph]. May have at higher speeds but I don't hear them. Sound is only from the right/passenger side. No drive ability problems other than a bit of low speed torque steer under acceleration. No pulling or bouncing. Tires show no unusual wear patterns & have been regularly rotated. Since my fat ass can't fit [or want to] under the car, I was asking if anyone has like problem & what was causing it. Wondering if I should take it to muffler/exhaust shop or suspension shop or elsewhere. THANKS for the read & any light shed on noise problem.

At the risk of sounding stupid, check you key fob battery & where it is when this happens. As I understand, it is possible for fob signal to be interfered with by excess coins, keys, or anything metal in your pocket. Thanks for the read. Sorry but I do not qualify as an 'expert' in anything.

Received recalls for both the trans bushing & door latches the same day. Second notice on door latches. Supposed to receive notice when dealer gets parts in to fix, but sadly I don't have any confidence my local dealer due to past service issues. The last time my car was in the dealer shop, I asked about latch recall. They stated they had addressed it, but with a second recall notice I really doubt they did.

Update & Warning: I was finally able to release seat back. At the bottom right corner of the seat back, there is a rounded plastic/vinyl cover on the inner side of hinge that I could push open with a flat head screwdriver & reach in with another flat head & trip the seat release. I noticed that the U-shaped slot that holds the end of black plastic cable sleeve was not "snug" enough to keep cable in place when cable is moved about. I think the cable fell out of slot the last time I folded seat, or put something under seat, or when I put vacuum hose under seat to clean. When it popped out, it looked like it got caught in between something & was cut/pinched into. Since I really want seat to work far into the future, I put a drop of crazy glue where the slot & cable sleeve meet, being careful not to get any on the cable. Hopefully this will prevent this from happening again. Thanks for the read.

Sorry, should have stated car is a 2013 SEL with leather. Although video is helpful to some, 2013 seats a vastly different. Right now I am stuck until I can get back/top half of seat to release. Thanks for the reply, hopefully I can figure it out [still hopeful for any ones helpful advice] without having to replace entire seat. Thanks again

HELP PLEASE!!! My rear seat cable that releases right passenger seat back to fold down broke at the rear release, [no visible cable left to grab with vice locks]. How can I release now to remove seat to repair/replace? As far as I can tell far rear bolts/nuts are only accessable with seat folded flat. I can get to & have removed the bolts in front of bottom seat & pair at the rear under the bottom seat. But

These are the grills in the two bottom corners of the dash & windshield. THANKS

Hello, 2013 SEL, front dash speakers/tweeters grills have gotten a lot of dried bugs or something behind the grill. Tried to vacuum out but no luck. How do I remove the grills only to clean? Are they a pop-out/pop-in or more involved?. Just unsightly to look at & stares/irks me every time I drive. Thanks for the read & any info.

Based on my own experience with 12V battery problems, you should have the 12V battery load-tested [present one or replacement]. Went thru 6 months of back & forth with dealer service dept., car in their shop for 2&1/2 months. Seems as the original battery they replaced was not NOS but bad NOS. Agree system should have about 14V when on ready to run. Keep in mind that one of OBD2's biggest flaw/pitfall is it's dependence on proper working of a car's 12V system [This true of all, to my knowledge, cars]. Sadly this also means that too many mechanics rely on it too much. You have to have battery load-tested because in normal usage the battery amperage is not used very much to start car, unlike non-hybrids. Hope this helps & Thanks for the read.

Just as a possible guess, can you access the 'settings' function, [two cog gears at bottom of display on 2013, can't say for 2015]. Under Setting function, should have 'Display function to control dimming on center control. Hopes this helps. Thanks for the read.

Hi, as the owner of a 2013 SEL, I have had a like event with my car. Turned out I was driving in 'L' instead of 'D'. I've probably more than I care to admit to but most of my driving is to city speeds [<40mph]. IMO, The car may be too easy to shift into gear compared to other cars I have driven. If this is a repeat event, you may want to have someone look at the AT linkage. Admit this only a guess. Another point, at 160k the C-Max is past the suggested mileage for an AT fluid & filter change. May want to touch base with previous owner. Hopes this helps but again just a couple of guesses. Thanks for the read.

Had symptoms like that with my 2013SEL [not Energi, just regular hybrid]. Ask the shop to pull & load test the 12v battery. Do not rely on the car's battery monitor only. I believe that the codes are stored via the car's 12v system & are lost when 12v battery goes in & out [somebody please correct if I'm wrong]. Because the car uses so little of the 12v battery capacity starting [compared to regular cars], it is harder to point to the 12v battery as a weak spot. Hope this helps & Thanks for the read.

Just a few reminders on the 12v battery. In the USA there are only 3-4 major makers of auto 12v flooded lead acid batteries, regardless of the brand. Different brands are very likely to have the same maker. The 67R code battery is mostly only used in a limited number & years of Ford models, further increasing the odds of same maker/ different brand. Sadly this also increases the chances that a battery you buy may be NOS [new-old-stock]. It is suggested that a lead acid battery be installed & used within 6 months of being produced. If you need to replace your 12v be sure to check the date of production [not date of sale] before purchase. Different makers use different formats for date [MM/YY, YY/MM or other codes [letter for year]. Thanks for the read.

Another option is to pick up a portable jump start box with USB & 12V power outlets $50-$100. Price is basically dependent on features & battery type, lead [cheapest] NiCad, lithium [highest] & total output. Beware NiCad batteries can show signs of loss of capacity due to "battery memory". If you use one regularly until battery is down to 10% or so before recharging to 100% you will not have any problems but if if only used to about 80%, NiCad batteries will sometimes lose capacity. In other words it's "use it or lose it". I've had one for several years now & it has come in handy many times [except when it's there & I'm here]. Thanks for the read.

Drove a 1991 ford festiva to 350K & a 1998 taurus sho to 425K, work kept me on the road for 50K per year. Used a good quality fuel injection cleaner with every oil change. Did all my own upkeep on both but went out of my way to find & use a quality repair shop for anything I was uncomfortable with [drove 400 miles just for some of work on the SHO]. The C-Max gas motor is a well tested motor with a timing chain instead of a "replace or else" timing belt & should hold up with proper upkeep to 350-400K easily. The brakes & suspension lasting are more a result of driving habits & quality repair/replacement by a good garage. If you happen to live in an area with more than one dealer/repair shop that claim to know how to work on ford hybrids be sure and check which one does & not just claim. Where I now live I'm not so lucky. I agree with others, replace the spark plugs & brake pads before you pass the car on to you daughter [she doesn't need the headache that may arise]. I'm now retired and now drive only about 5K a year & hope/expect my 2013 [103K] to be the last car I buy before I go. Thanks for the read.

Nevermind. Found it under manual key cover on inside. Now if I can find a magnifying glass. THANKS

How do I or where do I find FCC ID # on my key fobs? 2013 SEL hybrid. THANKS

After a year of inaction I decided to take the dive & replace the camera on my 2013 SEL, with hope that it would not be more than my auto repair knowledge. Turns out it was easier than I was afraid of. Research online showed cheapest was RockAuto/Amazon/Ebay, about $150 after taxes & shipping opposed to local parts stores or dealer, $200-$500. I am partial to RockAuto but whoever works for you. My car called for part #Dorman 592-008, I believe your 2014 uses the same#, but verify first. You will need 1. a Phillips head screwdriver, 2. A 10mm socket & 2in extension, 3. A small flat head screwdriver & a trim removal tool or dull regular screwdriver [dull to prevent scratches] or a dull butter knife, worked just as well for me. Optional: dielectric grease & crazy glue #1.Remove top center trim. Has 2 clips at 1/3 & 2/3 across & 2 plug-ins to side panels. #2.Remove 2 side panels. Had clips at top & center & 2 plug-in to big/main panel at bottom end. #3.Using small flat head remove buttons on hatch handle to access Phillips heads & remove handle. [ I needed a small flashlight to see heads & put driver in correctly but I am old and feeble at the worst times] & remove 2 rear light access doors to help pull big panel. #4Remove big panel. If you have the push button close, find a helper to hold big panel while you unplug switch before you undo the last 1-3 clips, [Murphy's Law dictates that wind will gust while you try to hold panel with one hand & unplug with other hand] #5.With 10mm socket & ext. remove 4 nuts that hold outer body with the license plate lights & camera. Be careful not to drop any of the nuts into bottom of hatch. #6. Remove camera from socket holding it in place. Mine had 2 "fingers" on one side holding it. Unplug camera, easier to unplug after removal than in place, plug in new camera & follow pattern in reverse to reassemble. Total time was about 2 hours, but I am a bit slow a deliberate when it comes to auto repair. #7.You may want to use dielectric grease on plugs to guard against water & use crazy glue on small plastic parts that may break, be sure glue is dry before reassembly. This worked for me & I now had a camera that works [better than O/E]. Hope this helps & Thanks for the read.

In hindsight, first LB was replaced 11/2020 based on internal car battery monitor [I suspect] & not on any outside the car tests. According to bill statement, correct part# was used & battery monitor was reset. Carfax report showed regular upkeep by previous owner at Ford dealers as he/she moved from original purchase in Tenn. to trade-in in NC. After first LB was replaced I checked local DIY part chains to see if & how much I may had been overcharged by dealer. Turns out dealer was very fair on battery price. I noticed at the time all the local part stores listed the battery as a non-stock item available only by special order. Again, in hindsight this now leads me to think LB was old stock [only took 4hrs to install "new" LB]. Again I live in what I would call a hybrid/electric desert [out of 100 Ford cars new or used available locally you would be lucky to find more than 2 or 3 H/E]. Have had no problems with radio or rear hatch or anything else with car. The biggest problem with dealer was a total lack of communication. Phone call went unanswered & not returned. Had to contact Ford national complaint center [1-800-392-3673] to get any kind of answer from dealer. Three weeks in, dealer said they were in contact with Detroit about car "tracing" problem even to the point of replacing batteries & programming in both key fobs. I do not know if dealer tested battery outside of the car & just relied on car monitor but can't think of reason why they would not. They said battery tested as "good" when charged but finally replaced after 3 weeks of looking for problem. The points of my original post are IMO the battery poses different symptoms of failure than we see in regular cars & that to advise others to check dates on battery purchase to guard against getting one that may have been sitting on a shelf for several years as I believe my first replacement was. THANKS for replying

Hello, New to forum, reader much more than poster, with a short story & observations. Purchased a 2013 C-Max 08/2020 with a clean Car-Fax report at a very good price [live in a 'hybrid/electric desert] here in eastern NC, 60 miles west to triangle car would have $2K more. 11/2020 car stopped, towed to local dealer, they replaced 12V battery [LB little battery]. Not surprised, 98K & 7yrs on OE battery. No problems [I still need to find a 12yr old to explain how to work radio cluster & steering wheel buttons] until 09/2021. Car died with all 12v powered items not working; previous failure some 12v were working but very weak. Towed to same dealer, after a week they said LB needed charging [as if I had left lights on]. After charging & driving car to their storage spot, car quit again when they tried to bring it to customer pick-up [after I had paid bill]. Rather than admitting they sold & installed a "new" LB 11/20 that went/was bad, they spent the next THREE weeks [I suspect a half a day or two per week] chasing a "phantom"electric drain. They finally put in another new LB in week 5, took a week for new LB to arrive from their supplier. Car has been running & starting great ever since. Observations: #1 LB is more a marine battery than a auto battery [low CCA-longer amp-hours versus high CCA-shorter amp-hours. Typical auto battery tests & observations don't work [some of us for 50+yrs}, especially because LB doesn't start car but big battery [BB] does. #2 If you put in a new LB, check the date of manufacture before purchase. Of all the brands of batteries out there are made by only 3-5 different makers. Look online on how to read code for each one to get the freshest one possible. #3 If you have a problem with a dealer service dept. as I did. call the national Ford service complaint line [#online]. Be sure you have your vin# & service personnel names & #s. They were VERY helpful lighting a fire under dealer service dept. for me Thank for reading, sorry for long story.