SnowStorm

Please see link in this post. Its quite a lot for free but it has some rough edges. My .csv files come out with semicolons for seperators instead of commas. ;)

Just added more data and comments to post #1. The power steering showed no average change out of the DC-DC convertor - then I realized it must be powered direct from the HVB. Sure enough, HVB current showed the increase while turning the wheel.

The OBDII data lets us read current out of the DC-DC convertor so power used by various things can be determined by switching then ON and OFF. Consider these as "ballpark" values as current out of converter constantly jumps around by up to +/- 4 amps. Will add various items to this post as they get collected. ReadyTo-Run: About 200 watts - nothing else turned on. Outside Lights: Parking/Low Beam/High Beam = 75 / 220 / 363 watts Inside Roof Lights: Insignificant, can't measure, certainly less than 10 watts Heater Fan: Speeds 1 / 3 / 5 / 7 = 25 / 50 / 130 / 220 watts Seat Heaters: Both set to '1' = 145 watts Power Steering: 45 to 110 watts from HVB (not DC-DC). Measured sitting on concrete while turning wheel +/- 1/4 turn at about one cycle per 2 seconds, then 1 cycle per second (the higher reading). Surprised it was so low but expect it could be a lot higher on the road (?) since its powered from the HVB.

Interesting notes on history and illegality. However, I quite disagree about being useless. One of my pet peeves while driving relates to all the abusive headlights - on when not needed, misadjusted, high beams in you eyes (towards you and from behind!) - one spends entirely too much time moving mirrors, closing one eye, moving your head, all to get some idiot headlights out of your eyes so you can see the road. Driving with "parking lights" only (when headlights add nothing to the driver's ability to see) is a great way to improve everyone else's ability to see you without causing them any problems. We just rename "parking" lights to LLRLs (Low Light Running Lights) and outlaw DRLs! What good are DRLs from behind anyway?

I'd say you're right about the op amp. I thought about taking the project further along those lines but then started looking for something cheap and "off the shelf". Current monitoring, though, would be a much earlier warning than voltage. The problem is, the car periodically "wakes up" and does stuff in the middle of the night. You might have to integrate and do charge monitoring. What you say about battery post mortem is quite interesting. I don't recall any other comments about it. Our battery got replaced - the dealer said it was about to leave us sitting - or some such comment. I don't have any specifics from their tests. The charging current slowly drops off over time - no sudden shutdown. I've seen it take two hours to get down to essentially zero.

Great ideas. Current can also be measured this way without using a clamp. Here's my alarm which does have a beeper but has a problem beeping when its really cold. I used some old carbon composition resistors I had so they may be drifting - they are getting replaced. As you can see, there were no replies to this topic so doesn't appear to be much interest in actually doing anything.

See this topic. Looks like you found the solution already.

With detailed data from OBDII (see this post) I've started thinking about ways to track the health of our HV batteries. But first, some of the data available from the Battery Energy Control Module (BECM) is: Battery Age: Mine is 23 months - sounds right for car built in April 2013.Battery voltage: Runs about 282V. A 5 minute run gave min/max of 264V/303V.Battery Current: Varied from -114 amps (charge) to 94 amps (discharge). Limits (see below) should be about +/-120 amps.Battery Temperature: My 5 minute run had values from 62 to 66F (mid 30s OAT).State of Charge (SOC): Both actual and displayed values in %. Fitting a straight line to the data gives: Actual SOC = 0.38545*(Displayed SOC) + 26.4%Charge Limit: Reads a constant 35000 watts. At 282 volts that's 124 amps.Average Cell Voltage: My min/average/max for this PID was 3.48/3.71/3.99 voltsMinimum Cell Voltage: My min/average/max for this PID was 3.44/3.70/3.97 voltsBattery Cell Variation: My min/average/max for this PID was 0.00/0.02/0.07 volts. On a statistical basis the % of times each value was registered was: 0.00=0.3% 0.01=58.8% 0.02=24.3% 0.03=10.1% 0.04=6.0% 0.05=0.4% 0.06=0.1% 0.07=0.02% (only once!)SOC Module Variation: Reads a constant 1.62% - not sure what this means. Will it go up?In Car Temp: Mine read 52 or 54 F the whole time (we Virginians are tough!). Of course this is probably the inlet cooling air, so with 30s outside and recirc heat likely on up front, the air reaching the battery could well be that cool (but then we don't sound so tough).Fan Speed: Read 0 during this run - I guess the HVB wasn't warm enough.So back to health, here are some possibilities. Battery Cell Variation: With age, this might go up. Right now I have a maximum of 0.07 volts. You must be careful though because the maximum values appear to depend on the maximum current. Will try and set up a "standardized" test where the battery is run through heavy charge/discharge cycles of, say, +/-100 to 120 amps. Battery Cell Average & Minimum Voltage: Might be useful but the above "variation" may be enough of an indicator. Battery Resistance: This value must be calculated. Using the average pack voltage, voltage variation with charge/discharge and battery current, the resistance of my battery appears to be about 0.10 to 0.15 ohms. Again the above test should give a more consistent value. Resistance may vary with SOC and temperature and is expected (?) to go up with time. Battery Age: For reference Total Miles: For reference (and maybe lifetime EV miles as well)Sure wish I had numbers from when The Enterprise was new - and from other cars out there!

Agreed! Ice is bad - but snow is good. We were quite intrigued by Ice Storm too but settled on white - and the roof. We love the roof. Your mileage will definitely go up with warmer weather and longer trips. Welcome! (P.S. Ford should have a Snow Storm color! Oh, already do - two in fact. Anyone for Rain Storm?)

There are lots of differences although some are the same but I have no PAM at all! :cry: All have the Part number: and Strategy: lines, 6 also have Calibration. Sometimes a lot of digits are different, sometimes just the last two letters. I see your Min.delay is 113ms (Bad) where mine is 32ms (Good). :) Maybe some of your data is getting lost. You would think all modules would have a part number but what do I know. Wish we knew the meaning of the numbers and/or parts thereof.

The same here except for letters on the end: PCM - Powertrain Control ModulePart number: DM5A-12A650-KAStrategy : DM5A-14C204-TA Nothing has been changed in over a year when I had a 12V battery problem and I think something got changed then. Had the mileage upgrade in Aug '13 - car built Apr '13.

No grille blocks. Here's a graph of about 80 minutes on "country roads" - occasional stops/turns but mostly 55 mph. Parameters are (top to bottom - approx.) Red = Engine coolant Magenta = Motor Coil Yellow = Generator Coil Green = Transmission Fluid Blue = Generator Phase Purple = Motor Phase White = Outside Air

I have this item (USB) bought a number of years ago. Would like to get a wireless one - will most likely go with wifi (just my preference as I know a lot more about the technical side). I had a problem with loss of communications twice while connected to the C-Max but no idea yet whether its was the software, computer, adapter or what. If you go with wifi and the free software I'm using, be sure to check this page about wifi setup. This page talks about adapters.

Some other tranny related temps are below (with TFT=136F, OT=37F): 144F = Generator Coil Temperature (GCLTEMP) 149F = Motor Coil Temperature (MCLTEMP) 100F = Generator Inverter Phase Temperature (G_PHTMP) 111F = Motor Inverter Phase Temperature (M_PHTMP) Don't know any codes or formulas for them, though. Again, this was after a couple of hours at about 55 mph with OT rising to 37F.

So here's the transmission data from this morning (OAT=Outside Air Temp, ECT=Engine Coolant Temp, TFT=Transmission Fluid Temp): OAT ECT TFT Speed 46 48 47 0 In Garage 10 144 63 0 4 miles from home 16 180 103 50 Another 18 miles at (mostly) 65 mph 18 135 110 64 Another 6 miles in EV (downhill!) 27 180 127 64 After about an hour at 65 mph 32 181 128 55 After about an hour at 55 mph 39 189 136 55 About another hour at 55 mphSo TFT slowly kept rising to 136F with outside temps going from 10F to 39F. Engine cooled off in EV mode but not transmission - makes sense.

Should get some good data on The Enterprise over the weekend. I finally dug out an OBD Pros interface I had and tried it out - it worked. But the freebie software that came with it is super simple and looks like its from the days of DOS. Found this program, downloaded it, and immediately started reading more data than I know what to do with! :) All sorts of temps including TFT, GPS data (even on my SE), all 4 tire pressures (to 0.1 PSI!) and tons of HVB, hybrid drive and electrical data. There are some very interesting values relating to battery charge/discharge in 4 modes of car operation - like cumulative discharge in Sleep mode. Might be some clues, or some kind of record, about 12V battery problems. Stay tuned. Its mind boggling how much data is flying around inside our carputers!

Its a WONDERful car! Don't take my wonder away!

Could be a challenge but its not as unrealistic as it might seem. Luxury/sports cars won't need to get 37 mpg. Here are some of the reasons (it gets rather interesting): The MPG "required" is a weighted fleet average (Coporate Average Fuel Econoy). A company can build 100,000 cars that get 38 mpg and 1000 that get 5 mpg and meet the standard (36.7). The CAFE number is not the same as the EPA numbers on window stickers - its a lot higher, like 30%. The standard varies with vehicle size and type. For 2017 it goes from 44 mpg for "small" cars to 19 mpg for "large" light trucks. Remeber, those are not "window sticker" numbers. (Size comes from "footprint" which is wheelbase times track width so we can expect ever decreasing ride comfort as manufacturers shorten wheelbases! ;) ) "Light trucks" are about half the population - they have lower standards. "Light trucks" include trucks, vans and SUVs! Vehicles above certain GVWRs are excluded. Alternate fuel vehicles (E85 or PHEVs) get a boost in the alternate fuel mpg rating by 6.67X which gets averaged with the gasoline rating. (But there is a 1.2 mpg limit that can be applied to the final CAFE.) Electric vehicles get the same boost with no limit on final CAFE improvement. So, I suppose, a 100mpge electric car gets a rating of 667 mpg! That means that one electric car counts for like 15 or 20 gasoline cars! :happy feet: As +3 points out, if car makers don't meet CAFE, they just pay a penalty and keep going. One value I saw was that Mercedes paid, IIRC, $122 per car. That won't stop anyone from buying that E-Class! Instead of penalties they can also use "credits". If they beat the number one year, they can apply it up to 3 years previous or 5 years after - a virtual time machine. They can also "trade" credits in various ways.So, plenty of details in which the devils can hide. (Disclaimer - all the above subject to correction!)

Its in the manual - I have to look up the procedure every time.

I think he was just trying to get rid of car problem he knew nothing about. Horrible way to treat a customer. This "short trip" excuse is basically nonsense (unless something is defective - in which case they should fix it!). As soon as the key is turned to ON (not even Start) the HVB gets connected to the car and the DC-to-DC converter starts charging the 12V battery. The HVB starts the ICE - not the 12V battery. As far as I can tell, once the key is ON the 12V battery never discharges, everything is powered by the HVB & ICE. See this post. For the "short trip" idea to hold, the trips would need to be very short (maybe 1 minute) and in between each one you'd have to run lights/radio/etc for a considerable time. That DC-to-DC converter can put out a lot of charge current.

Well, well, learn something new everyday! Was just wondering about that a couple of weeks ago. Guess I should get off the forum and read the manual? But its 500+ pages...

Hey, we've been down to at least -6F! Now its true that our car is usually garaged but that doesn't stop ICE starting. I wanted to pull it up a foot so I could get the snowblower out so I thought, "it will all be EV mode - no need to open garage door", but ICE starts right up and proceeds to gas me out! That's in the garage - maybe 40F. I think it starts right up before you even try to move. Yeah, I was just thinking that before I got down to your post. Blow the warm air down the inlet ducts beside the rear windows - something like this!

Well, I like it better than the brushed aluminum car makers have gotten stuck on. But, being a woodworker from way back, would really like wood - something like this (but they don't cover that big strip of gray just below the dash). Also don't know if they do the SE.

Paul - Here's the correct link. I want to get into monitoring so would be glad to help out once I decide which way to go with the OBD-II interface and device (might be iPad mini or Android phone). Would like to end up with a system that can monitor all the Ford special PIDs or whatever - need to get more educated on the options.