ScubaDadMiami

Definitely get the ZipSeals on your suit. DUI is the most expensive, but they are among the best suits out there. I have a totally customized TLS350 that has seen some pretty heavy action.

I can't believe that I forgot to tell everybody the most important part! When I had some previous updates at the dealer, I would always cringe to find how badly they killed my numbers for fuel economy, during the service. This time, I got smart! I made sure to do a last long .5 Bar burn and then to feather the pedal to keep ICE working to Max SOC. I finished off by gliding with a light application of the brakes, just enough to basically fill the battery indicator to nearly the last bit at the top. Even after the service, I still had enough juice to get out to the roadway for the first burn on the way home. Of course, this could be after the engine ran a little during the service, but it looked like I maybe lost .1 MPG, and even this pretty much immediately came back on the first leg of the trip back home. Pretty smart, huh! :hat_tip:

My understanding is that they are just rolling out the fix. 38 it will be, if not already. Thanks! :hat_tip:

I wanted the equivalent to the SEL 303A without leather. I can't remember the options, but there was no way for me to get what I wanted without it. (I think it was the kick gate or the upgraded sound, but I can't remember.) I ended out buying padded seat covers to put over the leather. This was a very tough decision for me, because I am vegan and do not want to use animal products in my car! Also, I found that my body could not handle the less comfortable cloth seats. I tried an SE, just to make sure. You are right about the sun. I live where that hot sun will produce burns on people that jump into the seat of a hot car while in shorts or a bathing suit. Car companies used to make regional packages. For example, they would make a winter package with the heated seats, mirrors and engine block. In my neck of the woods, it has been common to see premium fabric seats and tinted windows on typical packages from the factory. I really wish that something like this would have been available for my vehicle.

The service was done. They did not do the update for the Restraint Control Recall fix. Surprisingly, I think that, even with the oil, it came to about $135 including taxes, disposal fees, and the rest. The verbal report that I got included things like "still like new," and "you take care of your car," things like that. The SA said that this service interval is mostly just checking a bunch of things, and is why it isn't so expensive. I didn't want to put a tire gauge on to check if the pressure had been raised while I was still at the dealership. That would have been an insulting verification to perform right then and there. In that regard, I would appreciate someone letting me know what the new spec is for tire pressure on the 2014. I have been running stock pressure from day one. It will be fun to see if the new tire pressure and 0W20 oil give me a few tenths better fuel economy. :)

Other than when I am on road trips, I always fill at Costco (93 Octane), and mostly at the same pump. In winter, I noticed that the pump and the C-MAX meter are very close to agreement; when it's hot, there will be a bigger difference. So, I decided to just go with the C-MAX meter, not the pump. I am not convinced about the theory that many have stated about the meter being way off. It could be, but I am chalking some of the reported differences up to factors like expansion and evaporation, poor pump maintenance, etc. My guess is that the C-MAX meter is measuring actual flow of fuel at a given moment, just as it reaches the engine. I just can't imagine Ford purposely chancing the risk that the public would find out about altering the code to make fuel economy look better. So, I am not buying into the conspiracy theory. Also, there are people reporting that numbers are different (I believe the reports are actually that fuel economy comes out a little better in these cases) when checked against a GPS. So, there could be many factors to change the final number a bit. In the end, I chose to go by the meter. If anybody doesn't like my numbers, feel free to knock a couple of tenths off of my average.

At the dealership. They will use the 0W20 oil, as requested. Just know this, they told me that the oil change with 0W20 is like $70+. Since it will be a long time until the next change, and given the hope of a few more MPGs, I am going for it. DON'T GO AND MAKE ME FEEL BAD ABOUT THIS DECISION. I don't want to hear about the $19.95 deal that everybody else gets for this.

I forgot to mention that I checked Etis, and it shows the recalls: 14C03 - FRONT SEAT BACK FRAME REPLACEMENT14S04 - REPROGRAM RESTRAINTS CONTROL MODULEHmmm, I would have thought that they would stock the 0W20 for servicing the 2014. I imagine that I should have sparkling clear oil, because I did The Works (rotation and oil) at 5,000 miles. (Again, I know that it's a little in the Overkill Department, but I did this right after my trip to North Carolina, and I wanted to give a little TLC after running up and down all those mountains.) I guess that I'll find out about that tomorrow. Oh, and I'll remember to re-set the oil meter, since I hear that the servicers frequently forget to do that. ;)

Tomorrow is the day. No other suggestions beyond?: 0W202014 tire pressure specs

I actually ended out getting the tinting. The dealer installed. It is a year later, and it is still looking perfect. The heat in South Florida requires tinting. I just had to take the chance.

Don't be too hard on yourself. After all, I am mostly driving on level ground. So, I do have a bit less of a challenge on that front. When in the right conditions, the trick to staying in EV is to "chase" the EV bar indicator as you get rolling. I explain below. With great low end EV torque, rolling to about 5 to 7 MPH is easily done while a decent acceleration rate. Getting just above that speed requires easing up on the throttle, because the good low end torque of EV quickly goes away, and continued throttle pressure will trigger ICE. However, there is a bonus in all of this. If you replay the video, you will see that the threshold from EV to ICE starts out low, but it actually moves up right after I get rolling at that 5 to 7 MPH speed zone (probably because it takes less strain for the battery to speed up a moving vehicle than it does to start one moving). The trick is to control the throttle as you approach the upper limit of that lowest end EV/ICE threshold, and then to regulate the throttle as you also follow the threshold as is moves upward to the point where you kick in ICE for brief 2 Bar burn, followed by backing off to 1.75, and then to 2,000 RPM/1.2 Bars as you head up to your speed target zone. Following this procedure gets the battery topped back up, uses little fuel, and keeps you up with the traffic flow.

I also see an EM5T19H449AA (note the T instead of the Z). Which is the right one, or do they both work equally?

Sure, my phone does a perfectly good job (better than NAV) of getting me where I want to go. I just like the big screen and other conveniences of NAV enough to justify it. If I weren't about to leave on a 4,000+ mile trip, I probably wouldn't be in rush to do it, but I think that it is a good idea for these circumstances.

The camera work is not the greatest, but here is pretty close to the actual technique. I could not both use the camera well and also make a textbook acceleration using the proposed method. Setting things up, I also didn't have my normal State of Charge on the HV Battery. However, the video still gives a good idea of the technique basics. For clarification, I'll break it down once again. EV to 13 - 18 MPH (in this case, 18 MPH);Quick ICE burn at 2 Bars, and then almost immediate back off to 1.75 Bars as soon as good pick up established. (Due to trying to do several things at once, I didn't really get to the 2 Bars, but that would normally be for perhaps 3 seconds before the reduction to 1.75 Bars)--you can see this in the video where there is a quick dash from between 20 to about 32 MPH;Left screen switch to My View, showing reduction to 2,000 RPM, which corresponds to about 1.2 Bars or just under;Slow pick up and battery charge from 30 to just under 40 MPH. (This is on a 35 MPH road.)Note that I am at 53+ MPG with air conditioning, so far on this tank, which is mostly city driving.

I love how the Pano roof makes the interior seem even bigger, especially on long trips. I actually prefer that it not open and such. That would make it cost even more, and I would rarely be opening it. I mostly use air conditioning.

Given my plan to depart on a 4,000 mile trip in June, I am in. I have my 10,000 mile service scheduled for Friday. Tomorrow, I am going to place a quick call to see pricing and if in stock at my local dealership. If not, I'll order online from your source.

I expect leave for my 4,000 mile road trip to New Hampshire and back by the beginning of June. Just to help make sure that everything is ready to go for a trip without car trouble, and even though I just crossed the 9,000 mile mark on my C-MAX, I have scheduled my 10,000 mile vehicle service for Friday. Besides, I want to do the service with a dealer that I already know, not in a strange dealership while on the road for such a big trip. Beyond the regular service, I am making up a list of things to be done/checked, and some of things to be adjusted for new data available concerning the 2013 model. For example, I recall reading that we can now use 0W20 oil, per the new allowance from Ford, matching the 2014, and (hopefully) improving fuel economy. I also recall that the tire pressure can be raised by 2 PSI over the pressure of the original release vehicle. (Was that the new pressure? I forget the exact number. Does anybody recall?) Of course, I am going to have the seat recall check and air bag check done, and I am going to have a check done to my GPS module, given the one time that it acted up. I intend to ask about pedal height adjustment. Also, if balancing is not included with tire rotation, I am willing to pay extra to have that done. Is there anything else that I should request, or that I have forgotten? Just so that you have complete information, I had "The Works" (oil change and tire rotation) done at 5,000 miles. Yeah, I didn't have to do that, but I also don't have to use high test fuel (93 octane) in the tank. What can I say? ;)

+1

Oh, I think that on Max it automatically goes to the right vents. Not positive, but I think so.

Unfortunately, as with other careers, there are those that know what they are doing, and there are those that are good at selling. It is rare to find people that are both, but there are a few of them out there.

I love the way that the C-MAX steering feels. Of course, if I had it my way, I would eliminate the concept of a steering wheel, which makes no sense for tired arms and neck on long drives. However, for a car with a steering wheel, it is pretty nice, I think.

It sounds to me that the flow of air was not coming from the front vents, but instead from the defrost area. That was the difference in the sound. I would start by checking which vents are activated, and making sure that you see that AC is turned on.

Though I would love to have one of the fancy colors, I opted for Oxford White (or would select any other color) without the clear coat. Now that I have my first scratch, I hope to be able to match the touch up well enough that nobody will be able to see it after. With clear coat, it can become much more costly for touch ups that look good enough not to tell. ;)

Surprisingly, that has not been what I am finding. What I have found is that doing a half bar versus 1 bar (which is just under 2000 RPM) burn does not make that much of a difference. On the other hand, a 1 bar burn versus 2 makes a big difference, saving more with a longer 1 bar burn than a 2 bar burn to get to the same speed, up to at least 45 MPH. (I haven't yet done enough 55+ MPH driving to comment on that.) I've tried this comparison from ranges of 10 to 20 MPH EV from a stop. I've also played around with 1.75 bar burns, which are definitely better than 2 bars but not close enough to 1 to work the best. If I need to speed up to a higher speed--46 to 55 MPH--I often go EV, then a very brief 2 bar burn with an almost immediate reduction to 1.75, and then I back down to 1 bar as soon as I feel like I am either with traffic or getting up enough speed to relax and enjoy the ride. Again, I was surprised, because, having had an 62+ MPG/800+ tank already, I figured that there wasn't much more to learn.

I agree. 2000 RPM for longer uses less fuel while allowing for more charge, overall. I use this for battery charging when State of Charge is low, such as after a long glide. I've noticed that when stopped, ICE, when running, is at 1200 RPM (it could be 1500; just going by memory). So, that's all that is required to charge. Before, I just wasn't sure if higher RPM = faster charge. Even if it does, the amount of fuel used goes up, and starts to go up much faster after 2000 RPM. That's why I give a short burst to 2 bar, and then I back off to 2000 RPM once I am speeding up sufficiently. It seems to be a good balance between moving along and good numbers. Yes, there is a bit of a difference between AC and no AC, as you see!