BIG ROCCO

Thanks for the photo. Wow, that's a lot of threads - they must extend quite a ways past the cylinder head into the combustion chamber? I could see why they might feel tight/draggy coming out - you must be cleaning the deposits off all those long threads as you remove the plugs? I guess I would use a loosen 3 turns/tighten 1/4 turn procedure...or something like that, like when using a tap, only in reverse. I have used a LITTLE anti-seize on spark plug threads to prevent galling since the 70's...then tighten the 3/8" ratchet, never 1/2" or one with too long a handle or a breaker bar, by hand/feel - I never have used a torque wrench that i can remember. I also have used anti-seize or light grease or even just a little light oil or trans fluid on wheel studs...whatever is handy, just to prevent the threads from galling...knock on wood, no problems yet - the wheel nuts I do use a clicker torque wrench for the last 20-25 years.

I'm not disagreeing, but once you get the engine and trans out of the car, I'll bet it's a pretty easy swap of the trans. I had to do replace the head gaskets on my '97 Eldorado 10-12 years ago. The best and easiest way was to drop the entire cradle (containing the engine, trans, rack and pinion, and drive shafts and steering knuckles) out the bottom of the car. That engine was massive and really shoe horned into the car, but it was a dream to work on once it was out. I have a attached a few pics for anyone who is interested.

That sounds awful!

1/2" breaker bar - I use an impact socket part of a set from HF. Always works fine not sure of the size. To change the oil, I jack up first one side and then the other on the front end. I use a floor jack and lift behind the front wheels. As I jack up each side, i place a small HF jackstand immediately adjacent to the jack saddle, on the rocker panel. To change the oil, I crawl under the car and start removing the bolts that hold on the lower engine cover. When the last ones come out, the cover drops onto my chest/belly. Then drain the oil and change the oil filter - standard stuff. Reverse the process to install the cover. Leave the jackstands in place, remove the front tires, then use your floorjack to raise each rear corner (jack from underneath, in front of the rear tires) and remove and replace the tires. Finally place the tires from the rear up front and jack and remove the jackstand and lower each corner. I change the oil when the car says to change - usually ~ 10K, so that's a good tire rotation interval, too. If you are more conservative about your oil change intervals, it wouldn't do any harm to rotate your tires more frequently (7K? 5K), too

Something is definitely wrong! Typically, it's the front tires that wear out quickly on a front drive car. I read somewhere once that if you don't rotate your tires on a front drive car, the front ones will wear out very quickly, and the rear tires will last 100K+ miles. Please let us know what you learn.

Yes - I would urge you get a later model if possible. We had a '13 - had some minor issues resolved under warranty - when i totaled it, we got a '15 - it has never been back to the dealer for any repairs, in nearly 3 years

I have seen weep holes in mufflers for a long time - they help prevent condensate build up and are a good thing and certainly nothing to worry about

I suggest you search e-bay for Ford CMAX spare tire

Yeah, try to adjust to keep it under 70MPH and you will be more pleased with the MPG

Yeah, that

Yeah, i notice the C-Max does transmit some road noise in the driver's door area, at least compared to my 2012 Lacrosse...which is very nice and quiet, i would say. Maybe the weatherstrip issue Noah mentioned is worth investigating.

You bring up a good point - I don't think the Energi is affected/afflicted with the trans issue, as it has an auxiliary fluid pump...or am I wrong? We had a '13 SEL, it was totaled, we replaced it with an identically equipped '15, it seems like they addressed some first year car issues in the later years, so personally, I would stay away from any '13 if I were looking to buy used. I think the SEL (and the NRG?) dodges some issue the SEs had, so in my case, I would also avoid an SE

LOL nothing ever rusts here in Phoenix

I was thinking it could be overcharge or moisture in the system, and i found this article that spells out the causes and effects better than i could: http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/19950306/ISSUE/303069998/orifice-tube-system-reservoir-effect-of-the-accumulator-helps-it-withstand-overcharges-better-than-non-accumulator-type-systems-accurate-charging-essential&template=printart

Thanks for the great write up with pics - not a problem I have had (that I ever noticed) on out '13 SEL or our '15 SEL, but your documentation is great and appreciated