camelot Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Hi everyone, I signed for a 2013 cmax this week and the deal was approved. Trying to keep up on the incentives I pulled up the car on the internet again and see that the dealership is now offering the car 30 bucks lower retail, than the xplan price I was quoted. Also seems ford has bumped the incentive another 500 bucks. Shouldn't I get the better deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hybridbear Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Dealers often sell cars cheaper than X-Plan. X-Plan pricing is good if you're buying a high demand model where dealers aren't giving discounts off MSRP. You should be able to get the car for the lower price that they're offering unless you already signed the paperwork. Are you saying that the car you're going to buy is now listed as $30 cheaper than X-Plan? If you signed paperwork then why is that car still listed for sale? It never hurts to follow-up with the dealer and ask about the incentives as they change constantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camelot Posted December 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Thanks for the come back. Not that the 30 bucks is anything, but the finance offerings changed just a few days ago after the fact. Yes I signed an order... they are quick to get that. The car is gonna be a dealer swap so the one holding the car dropped the price. Must have been a ford rebate to dealers. The 1k changed to 2500. and 0" apr. seemed worth asking. Doubt I'll get both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisl Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 I was just shopping for Cmax's (got a silver SE about 2 weeks ago) and had an xplan pin from a friend. I had also already started with consumer reports/truecar when I got the pin. I told some dealers about the pin, and others not. Some of the truecar prices were around xplan, and I think a few were lower, but had more options than I wanted and would have ultimately cost me more. One dealer said he was giving me xplan pricing by email, but it didn't add up-- the others all came in at (invoice*0.996)+$275 (and which I verified on the one I bought). He came in much higher for xplan, but had a "truecar" price that was close to what xplan should have been. You can certainly do better than xplan, but not likely a lot better-- I think the D plan shown on the invoice was about $500 better than xplan, and A/Z was about $1000 better. When the dealer I bought from wrote up the deal, he gave me the xplan price but didn't want to do the paperwork (I suspect he keeps the $275 program fee that way), so I'd guess that about $300 better than xplan isn't too hard to get. The rebates are then all on top of that. I got $2500 in rebates. I had to finance with Ford to get that, but there's no origination fee, and no early payoff, so I'll refi with my credit union at a much lower rate (already approved) as soon as the paperwork comes in. It looks like you can get $3K in rebates now if you finance with them, which can get you a pretty nice price, or $1500+0% for 60 months. Even if you were going to pay cash, you can finance with them and pay it off with the first or second payment to get the extra rebate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camelot Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Just goes to show that you gotta have your head in the game or they get a good deal not you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil1336 Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Everything Posted in regards to X-Plan pricing is true. The one variable that was never mentioned was all this "Bottom Line" price on purchase and financing is all totally useless if their is a late Model Trade In involved. On an outright purchase with no trade, fine. If your trading in a late model vehicle as part of the Deal, your still going to have to arm wrestle and fight like hell to get even "Black Book" Trade In Valuations for your old Vehicle regardless of mileage or condition. What good is getting your (new) Vehicle at $500 or more below Invoice if they give you virtually nothing for your late model trade in? If your got a vehicle your trading in, your still going to have to fight and haggle like hell to come out with some skin still left on your back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisl Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 My old car (a 1998 saturn SW2) is pretty much used up, so there was no trade involved for me. If I can get it to pass smog in January (it's possible-- it squeaked by in July, probably needs a new cat) I'll sell it privately. Parts for it are cheap if you have time to do your own work on it, and with a little work it's a decent beater. But if there's a trade, you'll never get close in trade what you can get in the private market-- a lot of dealers make all their money on used cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camelot Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Trade ins are tough! The last one I did was 5 yrs old. I've tried selling privately and it seems that people are very hesitant to shell out a "private" price when they can pay more and be assured of a guaranty for even a short while. Its a piece of mind thing. The dealers then push them into the extended warranty. I think auctions hurt prices on trade ins. If the car doesn't move from a trade in then the dealer will send it to auction.So he has to have some room for loss. Sound business but bad for the guy trading in against an xplan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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