Battery dead

[SnowStorm]

Took it in to the dealer - pump is okay....    IMO, the fix is to replace the water pump.

 

As an aside - am off to my other country England next week for a week and have a C-Max titanium ready - lighted door sills and equivalent FE from a little 1.0l engine.

That pump connector is popping up a lot.  My dead battery could easily have been after driving through rain or slush - and with road chemicals to-boot.  Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the pump and connector?  I'm wondering if there is an On/Off, or perhaps a variable speed signal, on one of the wires.  Just a little bit of conductivity might send the pump to full speed without the fault having to carry any significant current.  There might, indeed, be nothing wrong with the pump.

 

Have a great trip - my wife and I love it over there!  But why not try a B-Max?  Boy would I love to have an Energi version of that neat little car.

[kc1174]

That pump connector is popping up a lot.  My dead battery could easily have been after driving through rain or slush - and with road chemicals to-boot.  Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the pump and connector?  I'm wondering if there is an On/Off, or perhaps a variable speed signal, on one of the wires.  Just a little bit of conductivity might send the pump to full speed without the fault having to carry any significant current.  There might, indeed, be nothing wrong with the pump.

 

Have a great trip - my wife and I love it over there!  But why not try a B-Max?  Boy would I love to have an Energi version of that neat little car.

 

Cheers! Yeah I was thinking about the B-Max or even the Grand for the slidy doors. Their new C-Max seems so much like ours though, so I'm looking to spend a little time looking for things I like about it that we don't have, get part numbers and see about ordering some stuff. Maybe they have the rear window air deflectors  :spend:

 

Anyhow, here you go with the diagrams and stuff!

 

C1812 Connector:

 

C1812 Location:

 

Water pump wiring diagram:

Edited July 1, 2014 by kc1174

[jdbob]

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the pump and connector?  I'm wondering if there is an On/Off, or perhaps a variable speed signal, on one of the wires. 

 

There is a slow-speed network connection from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) to the water pump, nothing is simple any more. I don't have any information here that would say what the pump would do if there was a communication problem.

[Cmax lover]

Advsysal -

 

Please add your details to the Dead Battery Roll Call Thread and, most important, please call Ford's Customer Service line to log your problem with them as well as with your individual Ford dealer. The Ford central number is posted earlier in this thread.

My 2013 CMax has 8,500 miles on it and last weekend I found my car "dead".  First time battery was dead.  Had it towed to dealer and they charged the battery but didn't find anything else wrong.  The dealer said Ford's aware of this problem.  Ford  local rep calling me tomorrow.  I love my car, but am sorry to hear all these problems with the battery. 

[kostby]

And we had our second DOA event today at 1575.5 miles, in just over 90 days of ownership of our 2013 SE with Equipment Group 201A. (First DOA was April 17th, 2014, Post #1185 in this thread on 04-18-2014. April 16th WAS a full moon!) 

 

I went to the garage about 1:30 this afternoon to open the rear hatch, and the car was completely dead. Hadn't driven the car since about 10 pm last Sunday evening, roughly 40 hours.

 

Since the first event in April, I've been keeping a daily log of trip length (if any), whether or not we locked it when parking it in the garage, rain, car washes, and other observations that might be important in terms of isolating one or more causes.

 

This DOA was similar circumstances to the first time: the car was used recently for only for about a dozen local round trips of 5 miles or less in the last 10 days, not driven every day, and with no extended highway travel. Since the first event, we'd driven the car on round trips of 30 miles or more at least once every week. Most recently was brief night time trip home, obviously with headlights on. I did turn on the ambient lighting (and adjusted the color), because it was the first time in about 6 weeks that we'd driven it at night.

 

I washed the car at a self-wash on Saturday. I noticed that the HVB gauge showed a completely empty indicator on Sunday during one short trip, but had returned to normal the next leg of the journey. That's the 4th time I've recorded it, and it seems to be a potential 'early warning' indicator that the 12v battery is slowly losing charge. The last two times it happened, we drove the car on longer trips of 20 or more miles the next day.

 

Since ours is a 2013 SE that sat for nearly a year (April 10 2013 to March 26 2014) and only accumulated 133 miles, it's not that surprising that the 12 volt battery could be weaker than one kept fully-charged all that time.  I haven't opened the rear compartment to see if the higher-capacity 12v battery was installed.

 

When we took delivery, the car was current on advisories and recalls, and we need the recently-announced 14S04, the restraints re-programming. When I schedule the service visit, I'll have them test the battery too, and address a couple of minor trim weatherstrip and trim I've noticed.

 

I immediately attached the (Stanley) back-up battery to the under-hood power points, and the car came alive immediately when I turned the ignition to 'ON'.

1. The radio was on. (It had not been used the last time the car was driven.)

2. The instrument panel dimmer display came up, set to full brightness. (I usually have it at the dimmest setting).

3. "Start fault" indicated in yellow, even though no attempt had been made to actually START the car. Cleared it with 'OK' button.

4. Fan and AC came on. AC was definitely OFF the last time the car was driven.

5. Clock showed 1:55 pm, 06-30-2014, about 23 1/2 hours behind real time. I reset it to the current date and time without any problems.

6. HVB display showed about 1/8 charge. It had been at about 3/8 when it was parked.

7. When I turned the key to 'start' position, the ICE came on immediately, at high idle. Dropped to low idle once it had run for about 2 minutes. ICE continued to run for about 5 minutes, then shut off.

 

I turned off power to the Stanley back-up battery. I didn't really think the 12-volt battery was fully charged, but I wanted to try a few things.

 

8. I was waxing the car, so I opened and closed the (power) rear hatch several times. The last time I closed it, apparently it did not have enough battery power to fully close AND lock. When I attempted to lock the car, I got two very weak 'beeps' from the horn, indicating a door or hatch was not closed completely. I checked the hatch and closed it. By this time, the 12-volt battery did not have enough juice to beep the horn at full strength, so I turned on power from the back-up battery again and re-locked again. Normal horn volume this time.

 

I finished waxing the car and put the car on the electric charger. It has a high/start mode providing up to 200 amps and low setting. On the low setting, gauge showed the 12-volt battery was accepting about 30 amps, so it was pretty well discharged.

 

3 hours later, the trickle charger meter was now showing 0, so the 12-volt battery is fully charged again.

 

On to the next adventure...

Edited July 2, 2014 by kostby

[C-MaxSea]

Hang in there Kostby (& others).  Keep on sleuthing.  Sure hope you get it resolved!

 

KC, can you point us in the direction of the water pump connectors?  Are there any preventative measures we can do to those connectors, like taping up, slathering with grease ???. 

 

Shouldn't Ford be helping us weather protect some components, like replacing the front hood seal, etc....?  Not that easy?  

(If that has anything to do with it of course.)

 

Just pondering.

 

nick

Edited July 3, 2014 by C-MaxSea

[plus 3 golfer]

Kotsby, are you aware of this thread from over a year ago? http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1921-dead-12-volt-water-in-electrical-connectors/?do=findComment&comment=18888

[kostby]

Thanks.

 

Yes, I saw that thread about two months ago as I read my way through all the threads on every topic from the very start of the forum.

 

Water intrusion of the coolant pump connector could account for the most recent dead battery event. 

 

What doesn't make sense is that IF water intrusion caused our most recent dead battery, it has only caused a dead battery to our car once, yet I've used the same car wash 3 times, doing the same handheld spray routine using the same solutions (prewash, soap, 'clear coat protectant', and spot-free rinse, for the same amount of time ($5 for 14 minutes), and I drove the car for about 20 miles at interstate speeds in a torrential rainstorm, without any apparent (negative) effect on the 12v battery state of charge in the days following any of those other events. In addition, the car was washed at the dealership the day we took delivery, and didn't suffer the first dead battery until 3 weeks after that event.

 

So I still suspect the base radio/CD/SYNC system in our car.

Edited July 4, 2014 by kostby

[Cmax lover]

I stated on July 1 that I found my Cmax  dead and then yesterday when I went to my garage, the car was dead again.  Had it towed and now it's sitting at the dealership.  The Ford local rep is supposed to call me again tomorrow,but I don't think she'll have any answers.  I LOVE my Cmax.  My car was "born" on Nov. 8, 2012 and I understand this is the time frame for the problem cars. I purchased it Aug. of 2013 and no problems up until now.  Has anyone found a surefire fix and/or remedy for the dead battery episodes?  

Edited July 8, 2014 by Cmax lover

[ptjones]

I stated on July 1 that I found my Cmax  dead and then yesterday when I went to my garage, the car was dead again.  Had it towed and now it's sitting at the dealership.  The Ford local rep is supposed to call me again tomorrow,but I don't think she'll have any answers.  I LOVE my Cmax.  My car was "born" on Nov. 8, 2012 and I understand this is the time frame for the problem cars. I purchased it Aug. of 2013 and no problems up until now.  Has anyone found a surefire fix and/or remedy for the dead battery episodes?  

Either jumper battery or battery charger plugged in at night.  Every time you have a problem at least let FORD know and eventually they will figure it out. Hang in there. :)  

 

Paul :)  :)

[salman]

I have not had a dead battery episode since my coolant pump was changed in April.

 

In my opinion, there is a high probability that leaking electrical connectors are the primary cause of the 12 volt problems. I say that because: 1) there has been positive evidence of electrical connectors fouled by water intrusion, at the coolant pump and also on the main wiring harness. The evidence is that the mechanics find water and/or corrosion inside the connectors. And, 2) so far the replacement of connectors seems to have worked for me and apparently some others. So far I do not think there has been a case of a CMax with a replaced coolant pump that has had another dead 12 volt episode.

 

The connectors are obviously defectively designed and/or manufactured.

 

The immediate repair that Ford can make is to replace the connectors and, when installing the new ones, pack the connectors with dielectric grease to make them water tight. With the coolant pump the entire pump needs to be replaced because the connector is built into the pump.

 

Any dealership that refuses to check the connectors for water intrusion is not doing their job and the owner should go to a different dealership if there is a dead 12 volt problem.

[Tom]

I have not had a dead battery episode since my coolant pump was changed in April.

 

In my opinion, there is a high probability that leaking electrical connectors are the primary cause of the 12 volt problems. I say that because: 1) there has been positive evidence of electrical connectors fouled by water intrusion, at the coolant pump and also on the main wiring harness. The evidence is that the mechanics find water and/or corrosion inside the connectors. And, 2) so far the replacement of connectors seems to have worked for me and apparently some others. So far I do not think there has been a case of a CMax with a replaced coolant pump that has had another dead 12 volt episode.

 

The connectors are obviously defectively designed and/or manufactured.

 

The immediate repair that Ford can make is to replace the connectors and, when installing the new ones, pack the connectors with dielectric grease to make them water tight. With the coolant pump the entire pump needs to be replaced because the connector is built into the pump.

 

Any dealership that refuses to check the connectors for water intrusion is not doing their job and the owner should go to a different dealership if there is a dead 12 volt problem.

  Your approach makes sense for someone who has ongoing dead battery problems.  What about the C-Max owner who has had two or three events so far?

 

Tom

[kostby]

I think I can safely say that EVERY C-MAX owner wants their car to be reliable 100% of the time.

Ford wants to build cars that are reliable. Reliability is one of the factors that makes for happy customers.

Ford dealers want happy customers too.

Happy customers tell their inner circle about their great experience.

Unhappy customers tell EVERYONE WHO WILL LISTEN about their bad experience!

 

So become proactive, if you're not doing it already:

 

Report your dead battery, and every other recurring problem you encounter, especially if you're not sure of the cause, because you're ultimately helping Ford and your dealer service department find solutions and apply fixes sooner and ultimately, helping all the other C-MAX owners.

 

Call your dealer service manager to report a dead battery or other problem every time it happens. If they sense no urgency from you, they're less invested in getting YOUR car fixed, permanently.

 

Call the Ford Customer Service 800# to report a dead battery every time it happens. Ditto.

 

Use the free 5-year Ford Roadside Assistance for a jump-start whenever possible. Ditto. If your schedule doesn't allow for unexpected delays, you may wish to carry a 12v jump start battery for your convenience.

 

Long term, keep a daily log of your driving habits.

 

If all that writing is too much trouble, use your smartphone or camera to take snapshots or record audio memos of at least the left-hand trip display every day when you turn off the car.

 

A daily log may reveal patterns that helps Ford and your dealer service department isolate, diagnose, and correct the problem for your car, and ultimately all C-MAX owners.

 

A daily log is great supporting documentation if you decide to file a 'Lemon Law' claim later.

 

What to document?

First, what model and options and factory equipment group(s) does your car have?

Enter your VIN number in place of the one at the end of the URL here to see the Monroney sticker showing your exact Ford or Lincoln vehicle and the factory-installed options. 

When was it built? The door-jamb sticker will reveal the exact date of manufacture. When did you buy it?

 

When has the car been to the dealership for service? Which dealer? What problems did you report? What actions (including recalls and service advisories) were performed? What were the results?

 

How far, when, and where was the car last driven? Include time of day, destination, outside temp, weather conditions, and any other unusual things you notice.

 

Specifically for dead-battery events:

 

Notice if each event follows within a few hours or days after a car-wash or driving the car in wet conditions? (Especially helpful if water intrusion into the electrical connectors is suspected.)

 

Are there other symptoms of a low 12v battery charge several hours or days prior to a no-start event? 

Radio-system shut-down message, center console clock display incorrect, HVB display showing incorrect state of charge, radio not saving station presets or changing stations, unexpected error messages for other systems such as Dash lighting dimmer, MyKey, Start Fault, or the internal combustion engine running 100% of the time, to suggest a few.

 

[salman]

  Your approach makes sense for someone who has ongoing dead battery problems.  What about the C-Max owner who has had two or three events so far?

 

Tom

 

Tom

 

Anyone reading this forum who has one dead 12 volt episode should have their dealer check all TSBs, perform all updates, and check all of the indicated electrical connectors for water intrusion. There are TSBs for connectors on the main harness and also for the coolant pump (the coolant pump notice says there will be an updated notice this summer).

 

Anyone who has three or more dead 12 volt episodes should look up their State's Lemon Law and should at least start to think about when they might want to ask for a refund or replacement. The specifics depend upon the operative State law, the individual case, and the decision of the owner.

 

I agree with Kostby for the most part. Keep good records of every incident. Bring every dead 12 volt case to the dealer, towed by Ford Roadside Assistance if possible. 

 

And don't waste your time with a dealer service department that does not take the problem seriously or blames the driver or will not perform service as per Ford's own TSBs. The warranty is good at all Ford dealerships. No need to stick with poor service just because you bought the car at that dealer.

[ptjones]

Tom

 

Anyone reading this forum who has one dead 12 volt episode should have their dealer check all TSBs, perform all updates, and check all of the indicated electrical connectors for water intrusion. There are TSBs for connectors on the main harness and also for the coolant pump (the coolant pump notice says there will be an updated notice this summer).

 

Anyone who has three or more dead 12 volt episodes should look up their State's Lemon Law and should at least start to think about when they might want to ask for a refund or replacement. The specifics depend upon the operative State law, the individual case, and the decision of the owner.

 

I agree with Kostby for the most part. Keep good records of every incident. Bring every dead 12 volt case to the dealer, towed by Ford Roadside Assistance if possible. 

 

And don't waste your time with a dealer service department that does not take the problem seriously or blames the driver or will not perform service as per Ford's own TSBs. The warranty is good at all Ford dealerships. No need to stick with poor service just because you bought the car at that dealer.

I'm concerned that someone reading these Post's could get the idea that all dead 12v batteries are caused by the car and I know personally that this is not true. I have had one dead 12v battery which I caused by leaving the car on which is easy to do with keyless system. Yesterday it started raining and I left the windows open a little bit so I had run outside to the car and turned it on without stepping on the brake pedal to close the windows. In my hurry to get back inside the office I forgot to hit the on/off button again so when I looked outside a little later my windshield wipers were going to my surprise. Had another incident more than a year ago when I got home from work, parked the car in the garage and forgot to turn off the car. I had grabbed a bunch of stuff from the passenger seat so my hands were full and forgot to push the on/off button. Just one of the side effects of owning a car that is very quiet when it is on so you don't always know when it is on or off. I got lucky when I went out to the garage couple of hours later and noticed the car on. So in 21 months of owning the car I have only had CMAX operator problems, no 12v battery problems.  I'm not sure how you can tell the difference between car caused and owner caused 12v battery problems. IMHO :) 

 

Paul   

[salman]

I own an SE, so I was not considering the push button ignition.

 

On the SE all electronics are supposed to time out and shut down, including the headlights. The only way to drain the 12 volt battery by driver error would be to leave the key in the car turned to the "accessory" setting and leave the radio or lights on. Otherwise 12 volt drainage down to dead is not supposed to happen.

 

With the SEL, I'd think that if you left the car on it run would it run off of the LiOn battery and then when that runs low it would start the gas engine, run off gas until the LiOn is recharged, then run off the LiOn, etc, until you ran out of gas. At what point would the 12 volt battery become drained? No automatic shut-off at all??? 

 

You parked the car in your garage? No exhaust fumes? Surely the gas engine would have kicked on when the LiOn went low......

 

 

 

[ptjones]

I own an SE, so I was not considering the push button ignition.

 

On the SE all electronics are supposed to time out and shut down, including the headlights. The only way to drain the 12 volt battery by driver error would be to leave the key in the car turned to the "accessory" setting and leave the radio or lights on. Otherwise 12 volt drainage down to dead is not supposed to happen.

 

With the SEL, I'd think that if you left the car on it run would it run off of the LiOn battery and then when that runs low it would start the gas engine, run off gas until the LiOn is recharged, then run off the LiOn, etc, until you ran out of gas. At what point would the 12 volt battery become drained? No automatic shut-off at all??? 

 

You parked the car in your garage? No exhaust fumes? Surely the gas engine would have kicked on when the LiOn went low......

In the accessory position the ICE will not run.  When I got home HVB is always low so apparently computer will not allow the HVB to get so low that it can't start the ICE. It took 15min. to charge the 12v battery enough with charger connected to start the ICE. You can't charge the HVB without the ICE running. :)  With the SE leave the car on in the accessory position for for an hour or two and measure the battery voltage and see what you get.

 

Paul

[kc1174]

From my own experience driving through rain and seeing the accessory gauge fill up pretty much immediately, indicating some excessive draw on the 12v, and the scangauge showing a lower than usual 12v level than usual, and looking at the water pump connectors themselves, I can pretty safely assume it's that. Would suggest anyone with an SE with issues look at the accessory level on the dash after rain and see what happens. I added the Ford perimeter alarm on mine and just looked and the light ain't flashing, so guess what I'll be doing again tomorrow.. Didn't even drive today but it's been humid and was a pretty bad downpour earlier. Love this car, but am getting tired of all the visits to the dealership and drop in lifetime mpg that comes with it. The car now sees as that place an EV+ location and has for months.. Grr.

[kc1174]

From my own experience driving through rain and seeing the accessory gauge fill up pretty much immediately, indicating some excessive draw on the 12v, and the scangauge showing a lower than usual 12v level, and looking at the water pump connectors themselves, I can pretty safely assume it's that. Would suggest anyone with an SE with issues look at the accessory level on the dash after rain and see what happens. I added the Ford perimeter alarm on mine and just looked and the light ain't flashing, so guess what I'll be doing again tomorrow.. Didn't even drive today but it's been humid and was a pretty bad downpour earlier. Love this car, but am getting tired of all the visits to the dealership and drop in lifetime mpg that comes with it. The car now sees as that place an EV+ location and has for months.. Grr.

Edited July 11, 2014 by kc1174

[kc1174]

From my own experience driving through rain and seeing the accessory gauge fill up pretty much immediately, indicating some excessive draw on the 12v, and the scangauge showing a lower than usual 12v level than usual, and looking at the water pump connectors themselves, I can pretty safely assume it's that. Would suggest anyone with an SE with issues look at the accessory level on the dash after rain and see what happens. I added the Ford perimeter alarm on mine and just looked and the light ain't flashing, so guess what I'll be doing again tomorrow.. Didn't even drive today but it's been humid and was a pretty bad downpour earlier. Love this car, but am getting tired of all the visits to the dealership and drop in lifetime mpg that comes with it. The car now sees as that place an EV+ location and has for months.. Grr.

[ptjones]

From my own experience driving through rain and seeing the accessory gauge fill up pretty much immediately, indicating some excessive draw on the 12v, and the scangauge showing a lower than usual 12v level than usual, and looking at the water pump connectors themselves, I can pretty safely assume it's that. Would suggest anyone with an SE with issues look at the accessory level on the dash after rain and see what happens. I added the Ford perimeter alarm on mine and just looked and the light ain't flashing, so guess what I'll be doing again tomorrow.. Didn't even drive today but it's been humid and was a pretty bad downpour earlier. Love this car, but am getting tired of all the visits to the dealership and drop in lifetime mpg that comes with it. The car now sees as that place an EV+ location and has for months.. Grr.

I can see where that would decrease the fun factor, I assume you have a jumper battery, I do and I'm not having battery problems. Here's what I do usually when I drop off my car at the dealer is take a new car for test drive for the day and I've been able to take an F150 over-nite. Yipe! I'm planing on getting a F150 in the future and it takes a lot of test drives to figure out what options I want. LOL :)

 

Paul

Edited July 11, 2014 by ptjones

[Herb Wagner]

Hi everybody. This week I joined your party. Yippee. My 2013 C-Max Hybrid/5DR HB SEL was completely dead after sitting in the driveway for the weekend. Monday morning  I call Ford roadside assist and the Ford service dept at the dealer. 2 hour wait for platform truck (what can you do ?) The doors of the vehicle were not locked over the weekend so no issue getting in, me and the tow operator pushed it to the street ( I'm not sure how he got it into neutral and realeased the steering wheel) where he jumped it with his truck. It started right up and he drove it up onto the platform truck and away they went. It had 2 recalls and check engine light was on, no problems with that. They have no reason  why the battery simply died with nothing left turned on. They said they had to order the small 12 volt battery, that took another day. Why they don't stock this item I do not know.

When I picked up the car 3 days later my work order mentions nothing of replacing the battery, only that it was indeed dead according to the tow operator and he jumped it and when they checked it it was a "GOOD BATTERY" So they took care of  2 minor recalls and got the check engine light off. They also checked to make sure the water pump shut off after 2 minutes, they said  it did.   its interesting that the work order mentions Ford SSM44559 which if you look it up it says ford engineers are INVESTIGATING this condition and detailed service inormation SHOULD be available 3rd quarter 2014.  This may be a glimmer of hope.

My C-MAX is a 2013 with 4500 miles on it. I have a year and a half left on the lease. I live in New York state and already checked the lemon law here. It states among other things the  Vehicle must be less than 2 years old and 4 attempts must be made to correct the same issue. Hopefully we will all receive a  recall notice that the FORD ENGINEERS have come up with a solution that works for all of us, 3rd quarter 2014.

[Hybrid dude]

As the one who created this post, I can safely report I finally had my third dead vehicle incident just now, same scenario, parked overnight, nothing left on or plugged in, yada yada yada. It's been a while, I think more than a year. I was able this time to get the car towed in its dead condition to the dealer, but not after being treated rather rudely by the first Ford tow truck person, who came with a flatbed and said I would have to pay $45 in order for him to winch the car up onto the flatbed. I refused, of course, and he wished me a good day.

 

A normal tow truck showed up a while later and hauled it away.

 

When the first driver said he couldn't tow it in Park, I looked in the manual and there actually is an emergency override method to engage neutral, but after remove the one fastener from the right side console, I gave up, not wanting to destroy the plastic material. Has anyone ever successfully removed this panel without damage?

 

Anyway, I did my best to plead my case with the service advisor, telling her I'd recommend calling in Ford engineers, etc. before jumping it. She was confident they had to jump it to enable code reading, so there's nothing else I can do. I suggested using a voltmeter but that probably did go over too well.

 

Just to note, I've had every TSB, recall, etc. done to the vehicle but as you all know, that's not the fix.

A bit over 25,000 miles and annoyed.

[scottwood2]

As the one who created this post, I can safely report I finally had my third dead vehicle incident just now, same scenario, parked overnight, nothing left on or plugged in, yada yada yada. It's been a while, I think more than a year. I was able this time to get the car towed in its dead condition to the dealer, but not after being treated rather rudely by the first Ford tow truck person, who came with a flatbed and said I would have to pay $45 in order for him to winch the car up onto the flatbed. I refused, of course, and he wished me a good day.

 

A normal tow truck showed up a while later and hauled it away.

 

When the first driver said he couldn't tow it in Park, I looked in the manual and there actually is an emergency override method to engage neutral, but after remove the one fastener from the right side console, I gave up, not wanting to destroy the plastic material. Has anyone ever successfully removed this panel without damage?

 

Anyway, I did my best to plead my case with the service advisor, telling her I'd recommend calling in Ford engineers, etc. before jumping it. She was confident they had to jump it to enable code reading, so there's nothing else I can do. I suggested using a voltmeter but that probably did go over too well.

 

Just to note, I've had every TSB, recall, etc. done to the vehicle but as you all know, that's not the fix.

A bit over 25,000 miles and annoyed.

That sucks, I hope they find a fix for this soon.  I see you have the SE.  What other options do you have on this?  Do you have the 8" center display? 

 

thx

[Hybrid dude]

It has no options, plane Jane