Kelleytoons Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 @ptjones and Kelleytoons--Unfortunately, due to money and equipment concerns, we don't really want the SEL (especially don't want the leather interior and some of the other stuff that comes on the SEL--until now, that included MyFord Touch, but now I'm second-guessing). Must ponder. We got the SE because we did not want leather. However, we got the package with the MFT which we DID want, and I'm glad we got it. It works fantastic and is worth the price (and, as I said, it does eliminate at least a potential battery issue). While SE models with the upgraded package are harder to find, you *can* find them, and get good deals on them, particular the 2014 models (which ours is). I suspect if you put it to your dealer they can come up with something that meets your pocketbook (we didn't think it would meet ours, but they figured something out :>). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottwood2 Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 We got the SE because we did not want leather. However, we got the package with the MFT which we DID want, and I'm glad we got it. It works fantastic and is worth the price (and, as I said, it does eliminate at least a potential battery issue). While SE models with the upgraded package are harder to find, you *can* find them, and get good deals on them, particular the 2014 models (which ours is). I suspect if you put it to your dealer they can come up with something that meets your pocketbook (we didn't think it would meet ours, but they figured something out :>).I second that. Bought the SE with 202A package. Love the MFT and it does not seem like a standard trim level car. I think the jump to MFT makes the interior seem just about like the SEL anyway. Happy with cloth seats, did not want leather. Did get the winter package with heated seats which I like a lot. Other add ons were not worth the price to me. BTW: no battery issues here. Just left the Max at the airport for 6 days, no problem at all. Car is about 2 months old now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevedebi Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Jumpstarted yes, just not very many times, the C-Max Drain is VERY hard on 12V batteries.That is not just the C-Max. Modern batteries do not like draining all the way down. It is very bad for battery life. With the old lead acid batteries it didn't make much difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdbob Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 With the old lead acid batteries it didn't make much difference. Huh? The 12V battery in the C-Max is a run-of-the-mill lead acid battery. Lead acid batteries have never liked being drained down as far as I know - it causes sulfation. ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevedebi Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Huh? The 12V battery in the C-Max is a run-of-the-mill lead acid battery. Lead acid batteries have never liked being drained down as far as I know - it causes sulfation.Are they not sealed now? They used to be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdbob Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Are they not sealed now? They used to be different. Sealing just keeps the water from escaping. By draining I don't mean draining the water out, I mean draining the charge down. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead–acid_battery#Sulfation_and_desulfation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevedebi Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Sealing just keeps the water from escaping. By draining I don't mean draining the water out, I mean draining the charge down. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead–acid_battery#Sulfation_and_desulfationI knew you meant that. But I recall being able to refill the cells with fluid that revitalized the batteries. Back in the day, of course.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kostby Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) I just ordered one of these from Meritline.com:"LCD Cigarette Lighter Electric Voltage Meter Monitor Tester for Auto Car Battery"http://www.meritline.com/lcd-cigarette-lighter-voltage-meter-car-battery---p-120662.aspx The (Chinese-to-English-without-anti-tobacco-lobby-political-correctness-filter-applied) item description indicates that "engine off" it measures "greater than 12 volts", but that is at odds with the last spec saying it measures from 8 to 30 volts +/- 1.2%. The illustration clearly shows 11.9 volts on the display. I subscribe to Meritline emails, so I had a coupon reducing the cost a bit further, but even for $8.90, it was worth trying it out. Of course, if I leave it plugged in all the time, it will be "the cause" of 12-volt battery drain. There are no reviews (not always a good sign) but if it works, it might provide a quick check of the 12-volt battery voltage, faster than going through the left-screen Diagnostics menu or hooking up a my auto-ranging volt meter. If not, $9 won't break the bank. No, just like a 12-volt jump start battery, this is not a substitute for Ford fixing the issue(s) leading to dead 12-volt batteries (primarily on early production 2013 SE's with 200A or 201A). It's simply another ounce of prevention... Edited October 27, 2014 by kostby Smiling Jack and ptjones 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiling Jack Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Kostby, Excellent find ! Thanks very much for posting. I surely agree that it is so much more convenient and useful to have a constant visible display of the voltage, readable at a glance at any time, rather than to have to drill down through the dash display menus. I have been looking for something like this for decades. I have long been using a similar device that has only red, yellow and green LED "idiot" lights to indicate range of voltage. I have found it extremely useful for quick checks and diagnosis, but I always wanted a digital readout instead. FWIW: I have one of the LED units in each of my cars. The one in the C-Max, I leave plugged in to one of the front "cigarette lighter" sockets all of the time. It is not a problem for battery drain since those sockets are powered down about 20 or 30 seconds after the car is turned off. In fact I have found it useful as a visual indication that the poewer to the socket has, indeed, been turned off. The digital one would be similarly useful for this purpose. Of course, if the system will not turn on at all, the front sockets will not come alive, but at that point, one could move the unit to the rear socket, which is always alive. IMO: With the number of dead 12-volt events being reported on the C-Max it is probably a good plan to keep a close eye on things. I have not had any dead 12-volt events with the C-Max, but I did have several (self-inflicted) dead 12-volt events with my Camry Hybrid. Those experiences have kept me vigilant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevedebi Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Cheaper on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Voltmeter/dp/B0092KVYGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414431085&sr=8-1&keywords=LCD+Cigarette+Lighter+Electric+Voltage+Meter+Monitor+Tester+for+Auto+Car+Battery Smiling Jack 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Cheaper on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Voltmeter/dp/B0092KVYGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414431085&sr=8-1&keywords=LCD+Cigarette+Lighter+Electric+Voltage+Meter+Monitor+Tester+for+Auto+Car+BatteryThere are lots on ebay too. :) Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kostby Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Cheaper on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Voltmeter/dp/B0092KVYGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414431085&sr=8-1&keywords=LCD+Cigarette+Lighter+Electric+Voltage+Meter+Monitor+Tester+for+Auto+Car+BatteryThat ($5.99) is what I paid with a Meritline email-subscriber coupon code (code likely valid 10-27-2014 only), and free shipping with no minimum purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid dude Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I purchased one of those volt meters. Results:When I stand next to the driver door and look through the window and unlock the vehicle using the fob, it reads 11.7, then goes to 12.2 after I open the door and enter. When I start, it fluctuates in the 14 neighborhood, and I have seen it at 15. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I purchased one of those volt meters. Results:When I stand next to the driver door and look through the window and unlock the vehicle using the fob, it reads 11.7, then goes to 12.2 after I open the door and enter. When I start, it fluctuates in the 14 neighborhood, and I have seen it at 15. Thoughts?It sounds like what mine does, so at 78Kmi. I guess that's normal. :) Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pittcmax Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Add my 2014 cmax SE to the list. Bought it end of October. 3152 miles now. Dead battery jumped and took to dealer. I will be using PA lemon law if it happens 2 more times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pittcmax Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 So according to technician none of the TSB's apply to my car... He says I caused the battery to lose charge by:1. leaving a charger in the charging adapter2. Leaving a cord in the USB adapter... Mind you I have always done that with this vehicle... and every other vehicle I have owned. I knew better than to buy a Ford. Guess I will be waiting until it does it for the 3rd time and just telling ford to buy the thing back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevedebi Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 So according to technician none of the TSB's apply to my car... He says I caused the battery to lose charge by:1. leaving a charger in the charging adapter2. Leaving a cord in the USB adapter... Mind you I have always done that with this vehicle... and every other vehicle I have owned. I knew better than to buy a Ford. Guess I will be waiting until it does it for the 3rd time and just telling ford to buy the thing back. I have to say that on my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid, the only time I ran the 12v down was when something was plugged into the rear seat 12v lighter plug. That one was hot all the time, and it went flat. The 120v and the front 12v were shut down with the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelleytoons Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I wouldn't accept leaving a USB device of any kind plugged into the charger as an issue (but, as others have noted, better to not do it and THEN when it runs the battery down they have nothing to argue with you about). The charger *might* be issue. We know these batteries are *much* smaller than typical cars, so you can't compare with past vehicles. Just curious -- when was your car built? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Cheaper on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Voltmeter/dp/B0092KVYGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414431085&sr=8-1&keywords=LCD+Cigarette+Lighter+Electric+Voltage+Meter+Monitor+Tester+for+Auto+Car+Battery http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00962CQNC/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d1_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0QBDESEF35W2Z8A9CP1J&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop Here's one from an amazon vendor for 2.75 shipped. I personally have a different one that i paid more for so I can't vouch for it but it has good reviews. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPRifleman Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 So according to technician none of the TSB's apply to my car... He says I caused the battery to lose charge by:1. leaving a charger in the charging adapter2. Leaving a cord in the USB adapter... Mind you I have always done that with this vehicle... and every other vehicle I have owned. I knew better than to buy a Ford. Guess I will be waiting until it does it for the 3rd time and just telling ford to buy the thing back. I think your dealer is giving you a lousy excuse because they don't want to pursue the matter. There may be differences between the SE and SEL but I leave my cell phone charger and iPod plugged in inside the center console cubby and this hasn't been a detriment to my 12v battery. Bill-N, Smiling Jack and ptjones 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid dude Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) As the OP of this topic, I had the pleasure of my 5th (or maybe 6th, as I've lost count) dead vehicle incident the other morning, as usual, after a night parked in my spot. Thanks to the Stanley simple start, I was up and running after only three minutes of charge into the cargo area 12V outlet. I was lucky, since the Stanley start had only about 20% full charge. My plug-in voltmeter indicated normal conditions once the vehicle was back up and running. When the vehicle was dead, the meter displayed nothing. As a side note, I did request a buyback from Ford, which was denied because it didn't meet Mass. lemon laws, or something like that. I was offered a little peace of mind insurance (won't go into detail) but know it would only cover non-battery related problems, since it makes no difference when I have these dead-vehicle issues. They won't authorize a check of the coolant pump connectors because it is not a known fix, and I'm not going to pay myself either. As I've stated before, I really like a lot of things about the C-Max, handling, acceleration, room especially in the back seat, etc., but may leave the fold. I really didn't like other hybrid choices a few years ago, and don't know if I can ever go back to a non-hybrid. My overall MPG is only about 36, despite using various hypermiling techniques. The most recent tank was about 32, but remember it's getting cold in these parts. I still have a hard time, despite other members explanations, that I have that low an overall MPG, even with more than a third of my almost 30K miles on electric. If anyone can recommend another vehicle, feel free. I've even considered getting a 2014 C-Max, since there are quite a few rebates/incentives, it might be worth it. Frustrated. Edited December 16, 2014 by Hybrid dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMax Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Add my 2014 cmax SE to the list. Bought it end of October. 3152 miles now. Dead battery jumped and took to dealer. I will be using PA lemon law if it happens 2 more times. Don't jump it, open a ticket with Ford and have them tow it to the dealership. Also, ensure the dealership fully tested the battery. Was it fully tested? Results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc1174 Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 As the OP of this topic, I had the pleasure of my 5th (or maybe 6th, as I've lost count) dead vehicle incident the other morning, as usual, after a night parked in my spot. Thanks to the Stanley simple start, I was up and running after only three minutes of charge into the cargo area 12V outlet. I was lucky, since the Stanley start had only about 20% full charge. My plug-in voltmeter indicated normal conditions once the vehicle was back up and running. When the vehicle was dead, the meter displayed nothing. As a side note, I did request a buyback from Ford, which was denied because it didn't meet Mass. lemon laws, or something like that. I was offered a little peace of mind insurance (won't go into detail) but know it would only cover non-battery related problems, since it makes no difference when I have these dead-vehicle issues. They won't authorize a check of the coolant pump connectors because it is not a known fix, and I'm not going to pay myself either. As I've stated before, I really like a lot of things about the C-Max, handling, acceleration, room especially in the back seat, etc., but may leave the fold. I really didn't like other hybrid choices a few years ago, and don't know if I can ever go back to a non-hybrid. My overall MPG is only about 36, despite using various hypermiling techniques. The most recent tank was about 32, but remember it's getting cold in these parts. I still have a hard time, despite other members explanations, that I have that low an overall MPG, even with more than a third of my almost 30K miles on electric. If anyone can recommend another vehicle, feel free. I've even considered getting a 2014 C-Max, since there are quite a few rebates/incentives, it might be worth it. Frustrated.Cost me about $500 total, but I basically got this TSB done myself. Pigtail off fdmotorparts and the coolant pump off... Amazon.. Strangely enough. Labor was about $200. The last check off Ford paid for it, so I see it as awash. I had about 5 dead car experiences, and none since I got this done in Sept. If you really want to check that connector, it's hot, so disconnect the 12v in the trunk first. The connector is blue and on the passenger side front of the engine just above that engine bay splash guard under the car. http://www.fordfusionclub.com/showthread.php?t=618641 For what it's worth, I'm waiting on the VW bluemotion 1.6TDI to show up over here. 60+ mpg and no more messing about. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid dude Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) Edited December 16, 2014 by Hybrid dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid dude Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Cost me about $500 total, but I basically got this TSB done myself. Pigtail off fdmotorparts and the coolant pump off... Amazon.. Strangely enough. Labor was about $200. The last check off Ford paid for it, so I see it as awash. I had about 5 dead car experiences, and none since I got this done in Sept. If you really want to check that connector, it's hot, so disconnect the 12v in the trunk first. The connector is blue and on the passenger side front of the engine just above that engine bay splash guard under the car. http://www.fordfusionclub.com/showthread.php?t=618641 For what it's worth, I'm waiting on the VW bluemotion 1.6TDI to show up over here. 60+ mpg and no more messing about. Good luck.ThanksI'm glad you've had no more incidents but, for rational or maybe irrational reasons, I'm hesitant to do that self-TSB. Maybe I should, since I have that Ford refund money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.