Craig Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Up date, installed the blue base plate, used the kit from blue ox to install LED In taillight housing ( plenty of room) installed Air ForceOne air brake system ( it required connecting a charge wire from the Air Force One black box to the cmax 12 volt jump connectionSo the brake away system will work if you lose the car, also we installed a charge wire from the motor home to the same place toTake care of the battery going dead) still not sure if the car keeps the vacum pumped up while being towed? The Cmax pullsVery well, nice not having to install the brake buddy every Time you tow and locking up the brakes or no brakes.Tried using a tow dolly, but the car is to low in the front to pull it up the on the ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckinley Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 I'm pretty sure the vacuum pump is always powered. It comes on and off as needed to make vacuum after leakdown or when your system applies the brakes. I think that is the major reason why the battery runs down when towing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCC-Max Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Hi everyone, new member here. I just purchased the C-Max Energi and I need clarification regarding the brake lights. I noticed many folks are adding on light kits to the C-Max for when they are being towed by an RV. My question is: 1. If I have a dedicated 12v line from the RV to C-Max battery AND2. I have a dedicated 12v from C-max battery to the supplemental braking system (i.e. like a BrakeBuddy) THEN can I just use the regular lights that come with the car and not install more light bulbs into the tail light fixtures?I'm "assuming" that when the RV sends a braking signal to the supplemental braking system, the brake pedal is depressed and then the normal brake lights should come on. Please let me know if I'm missing something in my logic and that might explain why others are adding light kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Welcome to the forum! I was about to tell you your idea was all wet when I realized that towing brakes have come a long way since I was pulling a trailer! I didn't worry about brakes when flat towing a car, thus I have remote lights. It seems obvious to me that a supplemental brake that activates the pedal will also activate brake lights. The only question is what happens in towing configuration (car in accessory mode, tranny in N) when you hit the brakes in a car with regen braking? I suspect nothing bad... HAve fun,Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wab Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Hi everyone, new member here. I just purchased the C-Max Energi and I need clarification regarding the brake lights. I noticed many folks are adding on light kits to the C-Max for when they are being towed by an RV. My question is: 1. If I have a dedicated 12v line from the RV to C-Max battery AND2. I have a dedicated 12v from C-max battery to the supplemental braking system (i.e. like a BrakeBuddy) THEN can I just use the regular lights that come with the car and not install more light bulbs into the tail light fixtures?I'm "assuming" that when the RV sends a braking signal to the supplemental braking system, the brake pedal is depressed and then the normal brake lights should come on. Please let me know if I'm missing something in my logic and that might explain why others are adding light kits. Greeting and Welcome I just tested the brake lights and they DO NOT work with the c-max in "ready to tow" condition. I followed the instructions/video from etrailer to install the lights, easy DIY.http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Draw-Tite/118137.htmlAll the etrailer C-Max videos are gone. I used sockets and bulbs from a local auto supply. wab Edited January 13, 2015 by wab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 We have the air force one braking system and ran the wire from it to the cmax 12 volt connection.The brake, tail, and signal lights are run off the motorhome power ( installed separate LED lights from blue ox in the tailLight housings) we towed a number of times with no trouble (did start the car ever couple hours to keep the battery up)We then installed a charge line from the motorhome( 2003 Country Coach) to the cmax 12volt connection . ( no diode) We towed the car for about 250 miles, stopped at a rest area, turned the key off in the motorhome and it kept runningI turned the key back on and kept on going. We stopped at a Flying J to get fuel I checked to see if the cmax would Start, it was dead, I removed the charge wire from the cmax and the motorhome stopped running. It would crank, butNot start. Called road service ( $245) he could not find a blown fuse or relay. So we took the charge wire and ranIt to the motorhome battery and the engine started. He suggested I run two wires ( one charge and one ground)From the motorhome battery to the cmax. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wab Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 We have a ground from the 7 way to the ground post under the hood, no problems.PIN #1 (should be the white wire) is the ground. We also have a diode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckinley Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Your charge line is incorrectly wired. Probably wired to hot side of ignition circuit so car powers up mh ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckinley Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) I just looked at the third printing of the Owner's Manual. Lord Motor Company finally changed the towing procedure to make more sense. No more cycling through reverse to lubricate the reverse gearset that isn't there (this car doesn't have reverse gears, it just runs the electric motor backwards to reverse). And finally recognizing that you can't make this thing idle for five minutes. It also doesn't mention running the engine midday to re-lubricate the transmission either but that is probably still a good idea. Here's the new procedure. • Tow only in the forward direction.• Release the parking brake.• Place the transmission in position N.• Place the ignition in the accessory mode. See the Starting and Stopping the Engine chapter.• Do not exceed 70 mph (113 km/h).• Place the transmission in position P, start the engine and allow it to run for one minute at the beginning of each day (you may need topress the accelerator pedal in order to start the engine). After allowing the engine to run, place the transmission back into positionN and the ignition in the accessory position. Edited March 23, 2014 by jmckinley Nail56 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jurzbill Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Has this new towing procedure corrected the life of the battery while towing or does the battery still die after 150 miles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wab Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Has this new towing procedure corrected the life of the battery while towing or does the battery still die after 150 miles? Greeting and welcome Sorry for the slow response, we’ve been out of town.We now have 4243 towed miles on our cmax with zero towing problems. The “new” towing instructions WILL NOT keep the battery from going dead.You will need a charge wire (and ground) from your motor home to the cmax. Take a look at the these posts, a charge wire is really an easy DIY if you have a 7way on the back of your mh.8586 (I didn’t install fuses, the charge circuit is fused on our MH, I DID install a diode protecting the MH from the cmax)92 jurzbill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jurzbill Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Looks like Ford engineers mis-calculated milage. Good will rebate coming to owners of certain hybrids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmckinley Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Has this new towing procedure corrected the life of the battery while towing or does the battery still die after 150 miles? I agree, new procedure has nothing to do with the battery life. They just corrected the stupid cut and paste from the Focus Owner's Manual to eliminate cycling the lever through reverse which didn't do anything. Also recognized the car won't idle for five minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Update on installed charge wire from motorhome to Cmax. Installed diode in charge wire and that solved the problemOf the battery going dead, also installed a separate ground wire from frame of motorhome to blueox base plate. New problem, it's seems towing the Cmax is changing the front end aligment and changing the wear pattern onThe front tires. It does not track as well as it did. You have to correct the steering more and the tires makeMore noise. The car has about 14000 miles on it. Anybody else noticed this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wab Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Is your tow bar level? We need a drop receiver with more drop.We rotate the tires after each long trip, all 4 tires show more than normal inside wear. I had a 4 wheel alignment a few weeks ago, the back was worse than the front.The shop had pictures in their data base showing one side of the rear suspension adjustment already maxed out, just like ours. Check post # 44 by ptjones.http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1700-cmax-oem-tires-are-very-efficient/page-3?hl=alignment& Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcia Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 We bought a 2014 CMAX Hybrid we got all the towing stuff Roadmaster installed on it and our Motor home. We towed it behind our MH approx 50 miles. I have a push button start and put it in neutral and off when we got home and I disconnected I saw a warning to service advance trac............................is it safe to drive? I have contacted 2 Ford dealers can't get in till end of next week, one says should be okay to drive, the other one started to say that but then changed his tune and said we probably should have it towed? The car has only 1200 miles on it and now what? Help and suggestions anyone else have this problem? What happened? Beth Wills 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wab Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Greetings and Welcome Did you push the Start/Stop button again before your got out for the 50 mile trip?Did the screens turn black except for a "Shift to Park" warning? Hopefully you just made one of the ABS sensors mad and the trouble light will clear after a few start/run/stop cycles. Do you have a OBDII scan tool?A lot of auto supply stores will read and clear your codes. Good Luck and let us know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
air463 Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 I see that post by Craig telling us about his Cmax tires wearing from being towed. I noticed a different sound coming from our tires so I took it to my Ford dealer to have it checked out. They told me my tires were cupping a little and were out of balance. I have about 14K towed miles on the Cmax and two tire rotations in that time. All four of my tires are cupping and the dealer told me he was 90% sure it was caused by towing the car. My tow bar is level so it can't be that. I have noticed the car wants to pull slightly to the right all the time. I setting up a front end alignment appointment. I know for sure the tires will need replacing sooner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VirginiaRick Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 I was having the same dead battery issue with my 2013 SEL last year whenever I towed it for more than a couple hundred miles. I had a jumper box to get it going again each time, but was concerned that I was wearing out the battery. After about 5-6 instances of that I had my local dealer check the battery, and they said it was still in good shape. After Christmas I towed it from Virginia to California, never charging/running the C-max at the end of each day. When I got to the West Coast the jumper box still got it going again, but I took it into the local Ford dealer. They said that the battery wasn't 'up to snuff' and they replaced it (under warranty). Since then, I bought and attached the BrakeBuddy 39332 Towed Vehicle Battery Maintainer <http://tinyurl.com/njwrljt>, as recommended by 'wab' over in another thread. It relies on the towbar connection for the ground circuit, and it has worked fine ever since (I towed it back to Virginia in April with no problems, and a number of times this summer here on the East Coast). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Thanks for the info on the tire wear, our hitch is level also, had a drop hitch made for the motorhome to make sure.I did rotate the tires once, I will have a four wheel aligment done to see how bad it is, the tire noise is getting worst.We have over 15000 miles on the Cmax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jurzbill Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Just curious, why would towing the vehicle be any different than actually driving it. All four tires down, same weight on them, etc. Could it be a prob with vehicle itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wab Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Just curious, why would towing the vehicle be any different than actually driving it. All four tires down, same weight on them, etc. Could it be a prob with vehicle itself? The bar that attaches the car to the motor home puts all kinds of stresses on the suspension that the engineers don't consider.Our bar isn't level which takes some weight off of the front.You would think this would cause the outside of the tires to wear but that's not what's happening.Going around a curve is even worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemullin6 Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) Towed my 2014 C-Max Energi behind the motorhome and the odometer registered the miles towed! auxiliary taillights installed in C-Max and connected to motorhome via 6-wire connector with 12 v wire included. Any suggestions on what to look for to eliminate this problem? This time was short trip but next trip will be long and I don't want to use my lease miles this way. Also, do you leave your key fob in the car or take it with you when towing? I assume take it with you but the instructions do not mention it. Edited August 13, 2014 by mikemullin6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wab Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Greeting and Welcome I keep the fob in the MH for our hybrid. When you open the door to get out of your Energi to get in your MR do all three screens go dark except for a yellow warning in the left that says "Shift to Park" and the transmission in neutral? We leave on a 400+ miles 1 way trip in the morning I'll post our setup procedure and an this weekend. wab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemullin6 Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 wab, detailed procedure that you follow (successfully) will be a big help as we're heading out again next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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