Battery Drain and Frequency of Incidents

[fcforce]

I have a 2013 SE that was manufactured in May 2013.

[joe]

Thank you all for your great input! I will look into a battery charger. 

 

I do have one other question that maybe someone can address:

I read online that some C-Max owners have experienced the vehicle shutting down while driving or getting a message advising them to "safely pull over" and then the vehicle shuts down. Has anyone experienced this personally? Is this more of a rare occurrence than the battery simply being dead? I found that alarming when I read it, and wondered how people handled that scenario.

 

Again, thanks everyone!

I have a 2013 SEL.  About a month after I bought it, I had the "safely pull over" message when I tried to start the car.  It would not start.  I left it over night and then the next morning, it worked and it has not occurred again.  I now have 26,000K and have had no problems with the car.

[John Sparks]

Are you sure everything is up to date? Some of the things you are mentioning sound like issues that were resolved a while back. PM me your VIN and I can check OASIS on your VIN just to make sure. Seems like I read about a resolution to the battery issue. Let me see if I can find it.

 

 

Update

Here is the TSB on it:

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=1557

Edited April 22, 2015 by John Sparks

[fcforce]

According to Ford, everything is up to date. I will send you a PM tomorrow when I get to work. All the paperwork is on my desk. I have never seen the TSB that you posted. That was interesting! Thank you so much!

[obob]

Just got my 2nd battery failure.   (Completely dead)  Last one was over a year ago.  (manufacture date 3-2013)

 

My small battery jumper did work though it was challenging to find a good ground.  Everything went on like it was never bad.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D42AFS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

It is at the dealer now.

 

About a month ago I did get the SYNC 4.4 update.

 

I started the day before the failure seeing a very low state of charge for the HVB.

 

My 12 volt voltage tester that plugs in the 12 volt adapter wouldn't go on.  That's how dead things were.

 

As soon as the motor started the voltage was above 12.

 

I thought that was behind me.

 

I apologize for my posts suggesting not to worry about the problem, that it is rare.  ( It wasn't as rare as I thought. )

 

Even though I had the jumper, it still feels pretty bad.

 

I called the dealer to see if they wanted to have it towed in to examine it dead and they said just jump it and drive it in.

 

 

PS: there are now a lot of battery threads.  I used this one because it mentioned the latest TSB.  14-0155

Edited April 30, 2015 by obob

[wab]

Just got my 2nd battery failure.   (Completely dead)  Last one was over a year ago.  (manufacture date 3-2013)

 

My small battery jumper did work though it was challenging to find a good ground.  Everything went on like it was never bad.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D42AFS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

It is at the dealer now.

 

About a month ago I did get the SYNC 4.4 update.

 

I started the day before the failure seeing a very low state of charge for the HVB.

 

My 12 volt voltage tester that plugs in the 12 volt adapter wouldn't go on.  That's how dead things were.

 

As soon as the motor started the voltage was above 12.

 

I thought that was behind me.

 

I apologize for my posts suggesting not to worry about the problem, that it is rare.  ( It wasn't as rare as I thought. )

 

Even though I had the jumper, it still feels pretty bad.

 

I called the dealer to see if they wanted to have it towed in to examine it dead and they said just jump it and drive it in.

 

 

PS: there are now a lot of battery threads.  I used this one because it mentioned the latest TSB.  14-0155

"it was challenging to find a good ground."

 

There are battery and Ground connections under the hood.

When you open the hood the 12v connection is behind the driver side headlight under a red plastic cover not round but about the size of a quarter.

The ground looks like a 6" long bolt about the size of a ball point pin. It's between the headlight and the 12v connection.

[obob]

"it was challenging to find a good ground."

 

There are battery and Ground connections under the hood.

When you open the hood the 12v connection is behind the driver side headlight under a red plastic cover not round but about the size of a quarter.

The ground looks like a 6" long bolt about the size of a ball point pin. It's between the headlight and the 12v connection.

Thanks.

[obob]

Just got my 2nd battery failure.   (Completely dead)  Last one was over a year ago.  (manufacture date 3-2013)

 

My small battery jumper did work though it was challenging to find a good ground.  Everything went on like it was never bad.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D42AFS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

It is at the dealer now.

 

About a month ago I did get the SYNC 4.4 update.

 

I started the day before the failure seeing a very low state of charge for the HVB.

 

My 12 volt voltage tester that plugs in the 12 volt adapter wouldn't go on.  That's how dead things were.

 

As soon as the motor started the voltage was above 12.

 

I thought that was behind me.

 

I apologize for my posts suggesting not to worry about the problem, that it is rare.  ( It wasn't as rare as I thought. )

 

Even though I had the jumper, it still feels pretty bad.

 

I called the dealer to see if they wanted to have it towed in to examine it dead and they said just jump it and drive it in.

 

 

PS: there are now a lot of battery threads.  I used this one because it mentioned the latest TSB.  14-0155

 

UPDATE:  Dealer had car for two full days.  Said they it was the  "loose pin connector C228E, PIN 2, GROUND CIRCUIT  GD140 BK-GY"

They did not do any firmware updates.  I mentioned TSB 14-0155 and what I got from that communication was something like I am not even writing the number down, our technicians will handle it.

 

So I am glad I got the car back.  So maybe this is not some systemic problem other people may have.

Edited May 1, 2015 by obob

[plus 3 golfer]

UPDATE:  Dealer had car for two full days.  Said they it was the  "loose pin connector C228E, PIN 2, GROUND CIRCUIT  GD140 BK-GY"

They did not do any firmware updates.  I mentioned TSB 14-0155 and what I got from that communication was something like I am not even writing the number down, our technicians will handle it.

 

So I am glad I got the car back.  So maybe this is not some systemic problem other people may have.

It's C2280E and PIN 2 is the power ground for the Body Control Module.  So, perhaps such bad ground doesn't doesn't allow the car to "sleep" properly and drains the 12 V battery. :)   

 

If you think you may want to see / refer to the images below again, please copy and save as my image limit is near 25 and I delete older images on occasion. 

 

Edited May 1, 2015 by Plus 3 Golfer

[AudenHoggart]

I've now had my third time with a completely dead battery.  Car was left in garage overnight and had been fine the day before.  This is a 2013 C Max SE with about 20000 miles on it.

 

The first time, a few months after I got it, the dealer did a software update.  The second time, a couple of months ago, they couldn't find any problems.  I'll take it back again (and we'll first have to see if it starts tomorrow morning.)

 

But I've read a number of comments on this thread about getting an small and inexpensive battery charger as backup.  I do have jumper cables, but having the charger as additional backup does seem like a good idea.  Any suggestions about what to get?

 

Thanks!

[obob]

It's C2280E and PIN 2 is the power ground for the Body Control Module.  So, perhaps such bad ground doesn't doesn't allow the car to "sleep" properly and drains the 12 V battery. :)   

 

If you think you may want to see / refer to the images below again, please copy and save as my image limit is near 25 and I delete older images on occasion. 

 

 

Thanks Plus 3 Golfer.  

 

When I ask my contact person at the dealer he just said it is written on the bill.  It may be that he really didn't know.  

 

More info ->

Body control module

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

 

In automotive electronics, body control module is a generic term for an electronic control unit responsible for monitoring and controlling various electronic accessories in a vehicle's body. Typically in a car the BCM controls the power windows, power mirrors, air conditioning, immobilizer system, central locking, etc. The BCM communicates with other on-board computers via the car's vehicle bus, and its main application is controlling load drivers – actuating relays that in turn perform actions in the vehicle such as locking the doors or dimming the salon overhead lamp.

 

Edited May 6, 2015 by obob

[FordService]

I've now had my third time with a completely dead battery.  Car was left in garage overnight and had been fine the day before.  This is a 2013 C Max SE with about 20000 miles on it.

 

The first time, a few months after I got it, the dealer did a software update.  The second time, a couple of months ago, they couldn't find any problems.  I'll take it back again (and we'll first have to see if it starts tomorrow morning.)

 

But I've read a number of comments on this thread about getting an small and inexpensive battery charger as backup.  I do have jumper cables, but having the charger as additional backup does seem like a good idea.  Any suggestions about what to get?

 

Thanks!

Any updates, AudenHoggart?

 

I recommend setting up an appointment if you haven't already. Once you do, please let me know.

 

Meagan

[Robert Fugate]

     https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/maintenance/recalls/results.html

Edited May 26, 2015 by Robert Fugate

[Madmax98]

Why not Energi I wonder.  My Energi is suffering from dead battery issues (died twice today so far....)

[wab]

Madmax98, sounds like your 12v battery has failed and will need to be replaced, your dealer will be more than happy to test and replace it under warranty.

[stevedebi]

Why not Energi I wonder.  My Energi is suffering from dead battery issues (died twice today so far....)

Could be because all the Energi have the keyless entry / starting? That would have a different electronics set up.

[Madmax98]

Could be because all the Energi have the keyless entry / starting? That would have a different electronics set up.

Perhaps. 

I decided to fork out the cash for new battery from Ford Dealer as they wouldn't offer to cover it since exceeded the car warranty (car has 90K miles already) even though battery under 2 years old.

Been a couple days without battery death, keeping an eye on it, but still concerned might be a slow death if draining in some circumstances I'm not aware of....

Edited May 29, 2015 by Madmax98

[Robert Fugate]

[plus 3 golfer]

Pretty much a worthless video as the issue (according to Ford) is modules not going to sleep.  

 

Pulling fuses may find a bad switch (or switch left ON ;) ) in vehicles with a limited number of control modules but in the C-Max and other vehicles with modules controlling virtually everything, it will likely be a fruitless exercise.  The C-Max dead battery issue is intermittent (not like leaving a switch in the ON positoin).  Even if one could run the current draw tests during the time the battery is discharging (highly unlikely), what is one going to do?  Pulling fuses will likely reset the modules and the condition causing the drain will go away. :)

[Robert Fugate]

 Even if one could run the current draw tests during the time the battery is discharging (highly unlikely), what is one going to do? I would think weather you use a clamp on amp meter, or a plug in the cigarette lighter voltmeter in using that method. Once you locate the circuit that's draining your battery. Install a relay to shut down that circuit when removing the car keys, similar to shutting off the cars cooling fans for the radiator. https://www.google.com/search?q=relay+harness+circuit+for+cars&rlz=1C1ASUT_enUS617US617&espv=2&biw=1093&bih=514&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=_ehuVc6IHcK1ggSVrICgCA&ved=0CEAQsAQ&dpr=1.25#tbm=isch&tbs=rimg%3ACY6UsfE9CSzCIjilNJGfkH4rxfn0S1eQAYm_1QVDhIZadZg4EwYXE-dNUlg83fa0rcYeiksYkJHzauDrLLGBu5WGqwioSCaU0kZ-QfivFEZNE5NS7CYeBKhIJ-fRLV5ABib8RQHizgjom06YqEglBUOEhlp1mDhH99eUsImJtsSoSCQTBhcT501SWEZLvUeEp10e8KhIJDzd9rStxh6IR_1ZaQdsMfqxQqEgmSxiQkfNq4OhGTROTUuwmHgSoSCcssYG7lYarCEWNDItgKTwEE&q=relay%20harness%20circuit%20for%20cars&imgrc=4pzi-xJg_Z_umM%253A%3BVIbt0f8AqVnuDM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.vikiwi.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F115372d1289469670-electric-fans-relay-wiring-untitled.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fhdimagelib.com%252Felectric%252Bfan%252Bdiagram%3B778%3B580

Edited June 3, 2015 by Robert Fugate

[Robert Fugate]

Pretty much a worthless video as the issue (according to Ford) is modules not going to sleep.  

 

Pulling fuses may find a bad switch (or switch left ON ;) ) in vehicles with a limited number of control modules but in the C-Max and other vehicles with modules controlling virtually everything, it will likely be a fruitless exercise.  The C-Max dead battery issue is intermittent (not like leaving a switch in the ON positoin).  Even if one could run the current draw tests during the time the battery is discharging (highly unlikely), what is one going to do?  Pulling fuses will likely reset the modules and the condition causing the drain will go away. :)

Once you find the circuit drawing current, install a relay so it'll completely kills it when you turn off the car.