How long did your Rear Brake & Rotors last?

[BIG ROCCO]

You can buy access to it from Ford here: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/retail/default.asp?pageid=&gutsid=

 

This gives you access to both the Workshop Manual & all TSBs, SSMs, etc in OASIS. This is what the dealers use.

 

An alternative is to buy a CD on eBay. Mine was a gift from a friend. He bought one on eBay and then it started acting up so he contacted the seller who sent him another disc. A few weeks later he discovered that the issue was with his computer & not the disc, so he sent me the spare CD. You cannot install the files from the CD on to your computer, you must always have the CD in the CD Drive in order to use it. The one I have is for MY2013. I can post a pic of the CD later.

Thank you.  I bought a 2013 CM manual on e-bay for ~$20 - it is supposed to be the same as the dealer uses - it does not seem that way to me.  It did not seem to give a lot of explanation and verbiage - just mostly symbols and drawings for the procedure.  Maybe that's the way the manuals are nowadays, and I'm just showing my age?  The manual is on DVD and yes it needs to be in the DVD drawer when accessing the manual.  We recently replaced our '13 with an identical '15 CM, so I'm not sure how different the '15 manual would be - maybe a 72 hour subscription would be a good way to investigate.  Does the one your friend sent you seem the same as your online access manual you purchased from Ford?

 

Thank you again.

[hybridbear]

Thank you.  I bought a 2013 CM manual on e-bay for ~$20 - it is supposed to be the same as the dealer uses - it does not seem that way to me.  It did not seem to give a lot of explanation and verbiage - just mostly symbols and drawings for the procedure.  Maybe that's the way the manuals are nowadays, and I'm just showing my age?  The manual is on DVD and yes it needs to be in the DVD drawer when accessing the manual.  We recently replaced our '13 with an identical '15 CM, so I'm not sure how different the '15 manual would be - maybe a 72 hour subscription would be a good way to investigate.  Does the one your friend sent you seem the same as your online access manual you purchased from Ford?

 

Thank you again.

The CD I have is basically identical to what's available via the Motorcraft Service website. Some things are missing from the CD & it will tell you that you must have access to the online subscription to view that section of the Workshop Manual.

 

The online subscription only gives you access to one vehicle. The CD includes all Fords for that model year.

 

We purchased a shared OASIS subscription at the FFH Forum that we shared among the moderators so that we could post TSBs & SSMs for the community. That subscription has now expired and we don't know if it is worth renewing.

Edited September 19, 2015 by hybridbear

[ptjones]

Mime is the FORD 2013 Service information for CMAX Hybrid/Energi FCS-21229-13 version 1.0 :)

 

Paul

[hybridbear]

Thank you.  I bought a 2013 CM manual on e-bay for ~$20 - it is supposed to be the same as the dealer uses - it does not seem that way to me.  It did not seem to give a lot of explanation and verbiage - just mostly symbols and drawings for the procedure.  Maybe that's the way the manuals are nowadays, and I'm just showing my age?  The manual is on DVD and yes it needs to be in the DVD drawer when accessing the manual.  We recently replaced our '13 with an identical '15 CM, so I'm not sure how different the '15 manual would be - maybe a 72 hour subscription would be a good way to investigate.  Does the one your friend sent you seem the same as your online access manual you purchased from Ford?

 

Thank you again.

Here's a photo of the CD I have:

Edited September 22, 2015 by hybridbear

[BIG ROCCO]

The CD I have is basically identical to what's available via the Motorcraft Service website. Some things are missing from the CD & it will tell you that you must have access to the online subscription to view that section of the Workshop Manual.

 

The online subscription only gives you access to one vehicle. The CD includes all Fords for that model year.

 

We purchased a shared OASIS subscription at the FFH Forum that we shared among the moderators so that we could post TSBs & SSMs for the community. That subscription has now expired and we don't know if it is worth renewing.

OK thanks for your reply and also the photo.  At this point, the 2015 has only traveled 350 miles.  I know (from owning the 2013) how to change the oil, rotate the tires and inspect/replace the air filter and cabin air filter.  Everything else should be covered by warranty for the next 3 yrs/36K miles.  Based on your input, I think the online subscription seems to be better than the DVD and might be worth checking out...someday, when I need it. Thank you again.

[ptjones]

Here is the one I got from FORD:

:)

 

Paul

[cmax-nynj]

here are the photos of my front and rear rotors:

 

I have been very easy on the brakes for 41K Mile:

 

Front Rotor: Like New

 

Rear Rotor: Looks like it is due for replacement

Rear Brake wear, plenty of pads left:

Once again there is no loss in braking performance but Dealer said I should change the rear brake pads and rotors.

Edited September 29, 2015 by cmax-nynj

[fbov]

Those rear rotors look like they're in need of some use, not replacement!!

 

The pads? I can't tell a thing... no idea what I'm seeing, but judging by the rotors, I don't expect wear.

 

Have fun,

Frnak

[ptjones]

I also agree, to me it looks like you could go another 100K mi., don't replace them.  I'm very worried about your dealer or at least the Service Writers of being dishonest about repairs.  I would look into another one. IMO ;)  Brakes should last the life of the car unless you are stopping to fast. Your brakes look to be in excellent shape. :)

 

Paul

[obob]

I also agree, to me it looks like you could go another 100K mi., don't replace them.  I'm very worried about your dealer or at least the Service Writers of being dishonest about repairs.  I would look into another one. IMO ;)  Brakes should last the life of the car unless you are stopping to fast. Your brakes look to be in excellent shape. :)

 

Paul

 

I agree with this agreement a lot !

Edited September 29, 2015 by obob

[SnowStorm]

Looks virtually identical to mine (at 77k miles) - also how they looked at maybe 20k.  If you replace them, they will probably look the same in another 10k.

[scottwood2]

Generally there are  factors to brakes.  1) The pads wear thin.  At that time the pads are replaced as well as the rotor either machined or replaced.  Today most rotors are just replaced.  2) The rotors are too thin.  They have a minimum spec as to how thick they are.  If they are too thin (below the spec) then they are replaced.  I have never seen rotors replaced before the pads wear out unless you have:  3) Rotor warped.  Something is hanging up and causes the rotor to overheat and warp.  The pedal will pulsate when you apply the brake if you have a warped rotor.  

 

Grooves in rotors are normal.   Now if your pads wear out and you have metal to metal contact then those grooves are a different story.  Those groves will generally be deeper and again below the minimum thickness spec of the rotor. 

 

I would ask why they want to replace the rotors?  Hope that helps

[cmax-nynj]

Dealer told me my rear rotors are done. They didn't even take out the wheels to measure the thickness of the rotors.   I'll probably never go back there again.

[obob]

My Dad used to own a garage.  He would call work like brakes a gravy job.  I suspect that the mechanics and service agents at a dealer get commission.  So putting a little scare in somebody makes them money.  In some respects, the rotors being scored gives an excuse for a gravy job.

 

He personally did not sell brakes to people that did not need them, but he did mention that the brakes are getting thin and might need to be replaced next time.  But there was always the risk that if he did not do the brake job, some other less discretionary mechanic would before the next inspection (and possible other stuff that person did not need) and he would lose the gravy job.

 

It creates a challenge for me going to a dealer and being treated as a stupid person.  In some respects I am and in some respects I am not.

 

Being on this forum raises my IQ so to speak giving dealers less of an avenue of abuse.

Edited September 30, 2015 by obob

[fbov]

In my opinion, any car service organization will treat brakes like a lawsuit waiting to happen. If they replace one part, they replace them all, regardless of condition, so you leave with "showroom-new" brakes.

 

I tend to do my own brakes, once I found out how easy it really was, and got a couple tools (brake fluid reservoir cap with a Schrader valve makes brake bleeding a cinch!). It was real helpful when I was autocrossing; BMW wanted new fluid every year, and the track events wanted clear fluid at every event. That said, I also recognize when I'm over my head, and need a pro (as I'm not one).

 

HAve fun,

Frank

[markd]

Same here Frank, I've done my own brakes since my 1973 Cutlass and that was a long time ago.

[cmax-nynj]

****EDITED****

 

See post below

Edited October 9, 2015 by cmax-nynj

[cmax-nynj]

I had to do a panic stop a few days ago on the hwy and my brakes worked extremely well despite what the dealer says.  If the tires were grippier the car would have stopped even better.  I swapped the brake pads and rotors out on my other car (01 Nissan w/o ABS) last week and it was easy.  I am not sure if the Cmax brakes are as easy to DIY but I expect they don't need to serviced for at least 100K+ miles  

[djc]

At 27,000 miles Dealer replaced rear pads and resurfaced rear rotors, just prior to my purchase of used 2013.  This seems like early fail.

Brake noise is louder after a rain, which I take to indicate new rust on rotors.    Ford wheel design, rotor shield design, and road salt and snow in MN, may exacerbate corrosion of rotors. 

[cmax-nynj]

Despite the scratched rotors in the back, I still have no brake noise; no brake dust and braking performance is quite good.  I need to find another parked CMax and check out the rear rotors.  I think mine was a result of lack of use since I scored pretty decent in Regen. braking.   I have seen a no. of NYC CMax cabbies with very dusty wheels as a result of aftermarket pads.

[fbov]

...I have seen a no. of NYC CMax cabbies with very dusty wheels as a result of aftermarket pads.

That's because they aren't using regen... they're cabbies!

[Spitinuri]

Currently I am over 150K miles.  Brake inspection at the dealer shows little wear.  According to the mechanic the brake should go another 100K miles.  Most of my driving is highway so very little use of brakes.

[SnowStorm]

You certainly can't believe what every shop says.  My car went in for inspection a month ago at a local shop and they failed the rear brakes for "rust" or some such foolishness.  I had it "rejected" and went to my Michelin dealer whose inspector nearly went ballistic over the fact that the other shop rejected brakes that were very much OK - even though they don't look as "smooth" or "even" as the fronts.  This was with well over 90k miles.

[Hackster]

I am curious if an occasional (once a month?) gentle pull on a parking brake, while approaching a stop sign (with button pressed, of course) is all that's required to clean the rust off the rear rotors?

[obob]

The wear on the rear brakes during slower stops is a very light application when the regen braking would be cosmetically too rough (something like 5 -> 0 mph).  My thinking includes the possibility the wear on the rotors reflects a high percent of light brake applications.

 

I do a lot of slower driving and do not have rust problem, but if I did I like Hackster's idea of the emergency brake though I might just make some hard stops and mess up my brake score some.