Oil Changes

[Seymour_Bears]

Sorry robodog, don't really know.  I couldn't get a standard 15 mm socket and ratchet wrench into the space, but I know if that would preclude the Fumoto drain valve from fitting there.

[Tarheel]

When Synthetics first came out there was a big difference between them and Dino oil.  The motors were very hard on oils, air filtration was awful and a 3000 mile change out was needed to get 100,000 miles out of an engine before needing a rebuild.  These days there are very few Dino oils not up to the same specs as the synthetics and the current internal combustion motors are much, much easier on the oil than previous engines.  If you research it you will find that Dino/Syn blends give you the best of both worlds.  Dino oil has properties that are more beneficial than synthetics (film thickness at operating viscosity, polar attraction to ferrous metals, etc) and syns have better performance at high temperature.  As I said earlier in this thread, it's the additive pack the oil company uses which really makes a difference in the performance/longevity of the oils.  

 

Spend $25 on an oil analysis from Blackstone Labs at the point you think the oil should be changed.  The results will give you a measure of how much longer you have before you need to change it and how accurate the oil change monitor is.  

[JohnTrigger]

Speaking from experience, when removing the panel underneath, 2 of the 8 screw/fasteners are longer than the other 6, so pay attention to where they come from.  I didn't realize this and just piled them in a pile, so upon reinstall, I just guessed the longer ones were for the holes in front of the tires, closest to the tires, but I am not sure 100%. 

 

Also, when putting the panel back up, it slides back about an inch or so and is held up by some tabs that are located on the car and engage the panel, about 6-8" infront of the back end of the panel on either side.  If you get the tabs lined up right, the panel's holes will be lined up with the car's holes all around, and the back end of the panel will be held tighter to the bottom of the car, and the front end will sag a little until you put the screw fasteners back on, but it will hang there handsfree.

Edited January 5, 2013 by JohnTrigger

[Generalbeluga]

Let it go until your car tells you to change it.  Don't put synthetic oil (Mobile 1) into it until 10,000 miles so the engine has plenty of time to break in.  If you do ti too early, it will never break in properly and may develop high oil usage problems in the future.  I plan on changing it to Mobile 1 at my first oil change somewhere around 10K miles.  

[Seymour_Bears]

Let it go until your car tells you to change it.  Don't put synthetic oil (Mobile 1) into it until 10,000 miles so the engine has plenty of time to break in.  If you do ti too early, it will never break in properly and may develop high oil usage problems in the future.  I plan on changing it to Mobile 1 at my first oil change somewhere around 10K miles.  

Interesting - I hadn't heard this before.  I'll have to do some research.  The Mobil 1 website does claim that several manufacturers (Porsche, Corvette, Aston Martin, Bentley, McLaren, AMG, etc.) use Mobil 1 as a factory fill in their engines.

[JAZ]

From the Mobil 1 website:

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

Additionally, why no mention of Mobil 1 0w-20?  I've used it for years and over hundreds of thousand of miles in 4 and 6 cylinder engines with no issues, including annual trips to Houston with its Hades-like temperatures.

[C-MaxJaxon]

The C-Max comes from the factory with synthetic blend oil and is just normal oil, not a special break-in type.

 

I wouldn't risk putting lower weight oil than Ford recommends. The 0W would only be thinner when the engine is cold, so it should have minimal benefit.

[JAZ]

The 0W would only be thinner when the engine is cold, so it should have minimal benefit.

Exactly:  it would slightly mitigate the mpg loss at cold temps (1 or 2% perhaps) for those squeezing the last mpg out of the tank.  BTW, I've used the 0w-20 only in engines that specified 5w-20 weight oil.  Mobil says the 0w-20 is suitable in such applications, but I concur on following Ford recommendation.

[Generalbeluga]

"One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil."

 

I agree that most, if not all, new engines are broken in at the factory but, that is done on an engine rack and not in real world driving conditions with stop & go and FWY driving under load conditions.  Therefore, I have always given a new engine about 10K miles of real world driving before switching to full synthetic Mobile 1, 5-20 oil.   Beside, I would expect Mobil to encourage use of their products as soon as possible; after all, they are in business to make money!  I see no down side to waiting for 10K miles and a possible down side if you don't, so I choose to wait.  Some choose to change oil at ridiculously low mileage intervals, 3K of 5K, which we all know is not necessary with today's engines and oil technology.  I typically follow the manufacturer's/car's computer recommendations.  By doing so, I save money, the environment and can afford to pay to have someone else crawl under my car and change the oil!  At my age, it is not fun any more and I always tear up my hands.  

[ptjones]

Does anyone know how to reset oil change message?

[Bob999]

From page 281 of the Owner's Manual:

 

 

Resetting the Oil Life Monitoring System

Note: Reset the oil life monitoring only after an oil change.

1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine.

For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the start button for

two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt to start

the engine.

2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.

3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.

4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be

displayed.

5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be

displayed.

6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.

7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be

displayed.

8. Rotate the key to the off position.

For vehicles with push-button start, press the start button to turn the

vehicle off completely.

[ptjones]

Thanks Bob999! Worked like a charm!

[JohnnOhio]

Oil change in the first 1000 miles a good idea. That will drain out any dirt and metal filings left from the engine block machining process.

[C-MaxJaxon]

Does anyone know how to reset oil change message?

It's on page 281 of the manual.

 

Resetting the Oil Life Monitoring System

Note: Reset the oil life monitoring only after an oil change.

1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine. For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the start button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt to start the engine.

2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.

3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.

4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be displayed.

5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be displayed.

6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.

7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be displayed.

8. Rotate the key to the off position.

For vehicles with push-button start, press the start button to turn the vehicle off completely.

[Generalbeluga]

Oil change in the first 1000 miles a good idea. That will drain out any dirt and metal filings left from the engine block machining process.

 

I just had this conversation with the Service Manager at GALPIN FORD in Southern California yesterday.  He said that he would be glad to take my money but, it would be a waste of my money!  The modern cars do not need an early oil change.  They do not have the left over milling filings and the like that the older cars used to have as a part of the production process.   Both the production process and the new oil technology no longer makes it necessary to change your new car oil before the factory recommended intervals.  Some of us old timers will never learn new tricks and demand an early change but if you do, you will just be throwing your money away!

Edited February 12, 2013 by Generalbeluga

[zhackwyatt]

I just had this conversation with the Service Manager at GALPIN FORD in Southern California yesterday.  He said that he would be glad to take my money but, it would be a waste of my money!  The modern cars do not need an early oil change.  They do not have the left over milling filings and the like that the older cars used to have as a part of the production process.   Both the production process and the new oil technology no longer makes it necessary to change your new car oil before the factory recommended intervals.  Some of us old timers will never learn new tricks and demand an early change but if you do, you will just be throwing your money away!

My dealer said the same.

[C-MaxSea]

But what if.................................

 

1.  my car is 6 months old; born in August of last year and made it into my garage in January.  Now only 700 miles, and 7 months old.

 

2.  my delivery included a free oil change anytime up to around 5000 miles

 

I am leaning toward sooner than later since we do not rack up miles very fast; say at 2000 or 3000.  Second oil change will be at 10,000 miles.

 

Nick

Edited March 5, 2013 by C-MaxSeattle

[Generalbeluga]

I would do one year or 10,000 miles which ever comes first, again as stated in the owner's manual.  In your case do it at 5,000 miles to take advantage of the free oil change offer!

[stang9779]

Just performed an oil change @1400 miles using Mobil 1 5W-20.

The oil was an ugly greenish brown, looked pretty bad, but color isn't everything, still glad I did it. I like to do the first oil change at about 1000 to 1500 mles just to get any "Break-in" wear out of the crankcase.

Notes of interest:

15mm Plug.

8 - Torx screws (pretty large head) on shield - 5 minutes to removel, no big deal. See image 1.

Tight fit on the plug, use a short 15mm 3/8" ratchet or an open-end wrench. Interference with a bracket of some kind.

 

Shield:

 

 

Plug interference:

 

 

P.S. The Engine compartment was very clean thanks to the cover!

 Any pics of where the oil filter is? I would like to know if there is room for the bigger FL-400s oil filter. I'm going to be ordering my amsoil soon and don't want to get something that doesn't fit. I don't like now small the FL-910s is.

[oldloboy]

I believe that resetting the lifetime mileage and performance values would do this.  You reset lifetime values using the left menus which allow a "settings view".  That is the view that allows you to turn EV+ on and off, same for ECO cruise.   Anyway, under "Settings" you can find "Display" and within Display, "lifetime settings".  When you view lifetime settings, you hold down the "OK" button to reset, just like you were resetting trip mileage.

[DR61]

I just had this conversation with the Service Manager at GALPIN FORD in Southern California yesterday.  He said that he would be glad to take my money but, it would be a waste of my money!  The modern cars do not need an early oil change.  They do not have the left over milling filings and the like that the older cars used to have as a part of the production process.   Both the production process and the new oil technology no longer makes it necessary to change your new car oil before the factory recommended intervals.  Some of us old timers will never learn new tricks and demand an early change but if you do, you will just be throwing your money away!

I concur. Most modern engines are run-in at the engine factory and oil then is changed before the engines are installed in the cars.  Therefore when you get your new car with zero miles the engine has already had its first oil change.

[wab]

Most people don't know that Ford and all auto manufacture have a core business.

And that core business is box building.

 

If they can get the motor to prematurely wear out, they get to sell another box  eerr car.

[Hatchman]

First oil change yesterday at 600 miles.  Oil was nasty looking, a very muddy, murky, greenish brown color, looked like swamp water.  I've changed oil hundreds of times in dozens of cars, and never saw anything like that.  There were metal shavings in the drained oil, largest ones about the size of the diameter of a 1.0 mechanical pencil lead.  There were also some small chunks of some type of gasket material.  Overall, this oil was pretty nasty and murky for only 600 miles.  

 

Not to get into an oil debate, but I used the Motocraft Filter, FL910S, from wally world for 4 bucks, and a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 5W20 full syn for about 24 bucks.   From the looks of the oil and presence of metal, I don't think I wasted 30 bucks. 

 

Couple of things.

1. Torx bit is a T-30, and as stated above, the drain plug is 15mm.  I was able to reach the drain plug with a regular Craftsman 6 point socket and wrench, though it is a little tight. 

2. Oil filter, can't miss it, right on the bottom, middle, forward, of the engine.  Not a lot of room around it, but able to get the wrench on it.   They must have had a 500 pound gorilla tightening oil filters the day this car was made.  YMMV. 

3. Out of the 8 torx screws, the two longest ones go to the outside.  The three in the front and three in the back are shorter.  Don't over tighten, they are just held by plasitc "nuts" and will strip. 

4. Engine was filthy underneath.  Covered with salt/road debris.  Engine looked like car was transported from Michigan in a snow storm with salted roads with the lower engine cover off.  Lots of parts already rusted though the car was built 3 weeks ago.  Glad I got in there and cleaned all the salt off and stopped some of the oxidation/rusting process.  Not sure how it got that dirty, but it was. And no, we didn't do it since the car hasn't seen rain or salted roads yet with us.  It could have come through the lower grill, maybe it was sitting in a bad spot on the trailer.  Anyway, it was filthy, and no telling how bad the salt would have corroded things by 10000 miles.  

 

Overall, pretty easy oil change, though.  

[JAZ]

Fully concur with your specs (T-30, 15mm wrench, 8 screws, etc.), Hatchman, though the underside of my vehicle was very clean.  I didn't closely examine the oil but greenish-brown it was, and after several days of sitting in a clear container I saw no particles or debris at the bottom.   Wondering how long the cover will last in real-world driving.

[Hatchman]

Probably just a coincidence, but got 51.6 mpg today after the synthetic oil change, which is better than we ever got before, lifetime average around 38..  

Edited March 20, 2013 by Hatchman