How to Improve Winter MPG's

[ptjones]

Look at next Post

Edited October 25, 2015 by ptjones

[ptjones]

Now that temperatures are going down for Newbies you may have noticed your MPG's go down also.  You can expect 2 MPG drop for each 10*F drop in temperature.  So a temp drop from 70*F to 40*F would be a drop of 6 mpg.

 

Here is what you can do to to get some of that back without spending a lot of money.

 

1. Use some kind of Grill blocking method, Grill Covers, foam insulation or tape. Center Grill opening should be covered all year around, I have been using Grill Covers for 4 1/2 years/ 150K mi. now.  I only remove the lower Grill Cover when going on long uphill grades.            Worth 2-4 mpg's

 Grill Cover using Clear Packing Tape 

                 

 Grill Cover using Velcro attachments LEXAN Plastic

 

2. Use 50 PSI in your tires, not much difference in ride quality, but it improves mpg's and your tires wear great. I got 64k mi. on first and second set. Worth up to 1mpg.

 

3.  Oil Pan Heater speeds up ICE heating and heat available for the car heater. The only Oil Pan Heater I could find small enough to fit the bottom of oil pan was a Wolverine Model 9 Oil Pan Heater which you can get on eBay.  You can put one on the back of the block to have a total of 250 Watts, but enough to raise WT by 40-50*F.  Worth about 2-5 mpg on short trips and you have heat almost immediately. YA! :yahoo: BTW I put a block heater in mine which adds about 400watts and 65*F increase in temp which is great, but it is very hard to install. :sad:

 

 

4. Park facing the Sun which will keep ICE and inside of car warmer. If you can use seat warmers instead of heater.  Worth 1-4 mpg.  Make trips during the warmest time of the day.  These are kind of obvious ideas, but they are worth mentioning. 

 

5.  Premium Gas is worth 2 mpg in my experience, but may not be worth the additional cost. That is what I use.  :)

 

Note: 1. The first time you start the car, cold or hot, HVB charged or not, ICE will start running when you hit 35mph to lubricate Transmission. 

          2. ICE wants to get to 128*F before it will operate normally. With ICE block heater and oil pan heater I have been able to get to this temperature and be in normal mode almost from the start.  I think it is more efficient to use the EV to get to speed so when ICE comes on it is making significant power to move car, charge HVB and heat up up the ICE quickly. :)

          3. When temps drop below 70*F it's time to block the top grill to keep the ICE compartment warmer.  This can be done as simple as using clear packing tape from hood down to bottom of top grill or use LEXAN sheet cut to fit the opening.

          4. When accelerating use two BARs on the Empower Gauge, this is where the ICE is most efficient, heats up ICE quicker and charges HVB faster.

          5. Use EV from a start to 15-20mph, this gives good acceleration and is more efficient than ICE at those slow speeds. Remember you want to minimize ICE time and maximize EV time to get good gas mileage. :)

Paul

PS I will add more as I think of them. 

 

 

Edited March 20, 2017 by ptjones

[ptjones]

If temps go below 70*F block off top grill to conserve as much heat as possible.

This one is using LEXAN

 

 

It has been brought to my attention I should comment about Grill Covers and possible Transmission failure. 

AS far as I know I had the highest mileage CMAX to have Trans fail, 98K mi.( Don't know about Taxi Cabs), but the only one with Grill Covers.  You could say Grill Covers made my Trans last longer, I'm not going to say that for sure, but it does make you wonder.  With the info we have now it appears Trans aren't failing because of temperature, Hybridbear has gotten to 220*F with his FFNRG and the highest I ever saw was 194*F when it was going bad at 98K mi. Now 189*F is the highest  I have seen with New Trans.  FORD said that the Trans puts out a code at 301*F, I think the ICE compartment would need to be on fire to get that hot.

 

 There seems to be a connection between ICE WT temps and TFT because the Trans is bolted to ICE and heat transfers from ICE to Trans. Trans Cooler doesn't get much cool air to it until 215*F when the shutters open which rarely happens. The long and short of it is FORD has a bearing problem with some Transmissions and it is showing up with CMAX//FFH that are driven mostly on the HWY.  Temperature change going up over time is a indicator of the possibility that the Trans is going to fail.  I do think going to Full Synthetic Fluid is a good idea and hope to do it soon.

 

I think that covers everything I know on Trans Failures. :)

 

Paul

 

:)  Paul

Edited March 20, 2017 by ptjones

[wab]

PM sent

[obob]

Additional winder ideas.

 

use EV+ to lower the battery at the end of a trip.  In the cold, the engine will run to warm up, so the more battery to charge the better, for otherwise the engine will just be running to warm up.

 

 

 

Just my sense but in the cold, when first starting out, use the ICE as gently as possible for when cold, the engine very inefficiently injects gas in the cylinders to get the power it needs.  Anyone else have this understanding ?

Edited October 28, 2015 by obob

[scottwood2]

Additional winder ideas.

 

use EV+ to lower the battery at the end of a trip.  In the cold the engine will run to warm up so the more battery to charge the better for otherwise the engine will just be running to warm up.

 

 

 

Just my sense but in the cold, when first starting out, use the ICE as gently as possible for when cold the engine very inefficiently injects gas in the cylinders to get the power it needs.  Anyone else have this understanding ?

Good tips

 

I also try to drain the battery before parking it if I can. 

 

I also try to keep the RPM down when it is cold.  When the ICE first comes on it will not charge the battery until it warms up a little and the load from acceleration is lower.  I will try to let up on the accelerator to get it to start charging then accelerate a little.  Too much and it will stop charging again until it warms up more.   I also try to keep the RPM around 2000 in the morning.   Takes longer to charge and accelerate but it also warms up ICE better.   I leave for work very early so I am usually the only car on the road.  I also try to keep the cabin heat off and just use the seat heaters until the engine temp comes up.  Not sure if this really saves much but it helps some. 

[hybridbear]

Just my sense but in the cold, when first starting out, use the ICE as gently as possible for when cold the engine very inefficiently injects gas in the cylinders to get the power it needs.  Anyone else have this understanding ?

You can see this on the Engage screen. The car uses the HVB to drive, while idling the ICE. Check out the warm up stages thread. There are only a few details in the C-Max Forum thread. Click over to the linked FFH Forum thread for lots more info.

 

This is stage S1a. It is desirable to avoid this stage. That thread explains how to get out of stage S1a.

Edited October 27, 2015 by hybridbear

[ptjones]

I use EV+  and it works for the house and work.  I also run HVB down getting there, I monitor SOC and about half of the time it is higher when I start the car in the morning.  The other half it is lower, alarming low sometimes, 29% and the ICE lurches when it starts immediately.  Something is obviously going on with the HVB to deplete the Battery down from 37% to 29%.  On the other end spectrum I came home from long trip on the FWY with 58% SOC and in the morning I had 80%(ScanGauge II), WOW! 

 

In the morning when I start out I EV as long as I can, the main purpose is to get your speed as high as you can before the ICE starts running.

 

Note: 1. The first time you start the car, cold or hot, HVB charged or not, ICE will start running when to hit 35mph to lubricate Transmission. 

          2. ICE wants to get to 128*F before it will operate normally. With ICE block heater and oil pan heater I have been able to get to this temperature and be in normal mode almost from the start.  I think it is more efficient to use the EV to get to speed so when ICE comes on when it is making significant power to move car and charge HVB. :)

 

Paul

[ptjones]

Just a reminder to put Grill Covers on now that it is getting cold. High 30's this morning in Atlanta Area.  :)

 

Paul

Edited November 14, 2015 by ptjones

[WNY]

I;'ve noticed the HV battery dropping on occasion at work after being parked, it would be 1/3-1/2 full when I park it and it would at very lower end when I leave and the ICE starts right away to charge. other times, it stays charged where I left it. 

We had snow last night, but supposed to be in the 60's up here this week. go figure! 

Edited November 14, 2015 by WNY

[ptjones]

I want to keep this thread active so new members can get quick info on what to do about  cold temps and dropping MPG's. :)

 

Paul

[revanoff2]

I've been toying with adding the insulating foam just to experiment. I do a lot of freeway driving in my car, and have noticed that I'm now getting about 34mpg where I used to get 38-39mpg. I attribute this almost directly to the colder weather (plus rain/wind etc.)

 

I have almost 73k on mine now, and that being said, the car states a little over 20k has been on electric only power. This would mean the engine has approximately 53k on it. I know FORD says its a 100k mile spark plug change interval, but I'm not quite so convinced. I have noticed that my engine doesn't run as smooth as I expected it would. Now, that being said, I've been contemplating putting new plugs in it to see if that helps my MPG at all. Based on my calculations, when the ICE is running, I am getting approximately 23MPG... unless the SOC is very high. What are your thoughts on that? You also mention using premium grade fuel... whats the Octane for premium where you are?

 

I think I'll pop in at Home Depot on the way to my house after work and pick up some of the foam. Couldn't hurt to try right?

 

~Revanoff2~

 

 

[ptjones]

I've been toying with adding the insulating foam just to experiment. I do a lot of freeway driving in my car, and have noticed that I'm now getting about 34mpg where I used to get 38-39mpg. I attribute this almost directly to the colder weather (plus rain/wind etc.)

 

I have almost 73k on mine now, and that being said, the car states a little over 20k has been on electric only power. This would mean the engine has approximately 53k on it. I know FORD says its a 100k mile spark plug change interval, but I'm not quite so convinced. I have noticed that my engine doesn't run as smooth as I expected it would. Now, that being said, I've been contemplating putting new plugs in it to see if that helps my MPG at all. Based on my calculations, when the ICE is running, I am getting approximately 23MPG... unless the SOC is very high. What are your thoughts on that? You also mention using premium grade fuel... whats the Octane for premium where you are?

 

I think I'll pop in at Home Depot on the way to my house after work and pick up some of the foam. Couldn't hurt to try right?

 

~Revanoff2~

I would try a bottle of the NOS Octane Booster($10 at Walmart) with Premium (93 octane) Gas . I have about 60Kmi. on MADMAX ICE and I'm getting some of the best MPG's that I've ever gotten, still getting low 50's on a tank of gas.  Close off all the grills, if you are worried you can setup MyView for empowered and temp gauge on the right side to monitor it.  I think you will be impressed by the improvement. :)

 

Paul

[ptjones]

Well with temps from 30-45*F on this tank , with speeds 45-55mph and I'm getting 51mpg and climbing.  This shows what can be done when you all these tips on your car are used. :) 

 

Paul 

[SnowStorm]

Some "short trip" experiences recently in the cold (at last):

1. My wife filled up and then made a number of trips (about 8 miles one way) and had about 38 MPG after 30 or so miles.  (SS wasn't overly congratulatory.)
2. Today made a shopping trip with a number of stops on each end and two 20+ mile runs (55 to 65 mph) in 22F temps.  Got mid 40s.
3. Made a round-trip of 18 miles total in 20F temps (45 mph max) and got 52 MPG.  I had carefully returned the battery charge to the same level.  Car had been sitting outside for several hours after the previous trip so was, no doubt, still a bit warm.  Seat heat was used the whole time and moderate cabin most of the time (see below).

I'm convinced a big factor is managing that cabin heat!  You must keep it on Recirc and limit its use if the ICE isn't staying warm (a problem for city driving).  If Frank's "shivers/minute" meter stays on a solid Zero, your mileage may suffer!  I don't have grill covers yet but I'm sure they help.  Truly glad we have seat heat - now if only we could add heated floor mats, pedals and steering wheel....

[ptjones]

Made trip to restaurant in town about 6 mi. 55-35mph, temps 46-49*F, SOC 50% and 42% at end,65.9mpg.   6 mi. trip from restaurant back to shop on FWY, OT 50*F, SOC 42% start and end, WT got upto 190*F with speed average 65mph and 46.7mpg.  Combining the two gets 56.3mpg! :yahoo:

 

Paul

[SnowStorm]

Please note that we can't average MPGs with the normal "average" equation of Avg=(A+B)/2.  We must use Avg=2*A*B/(A+B) or if you prefer, Avg=2/(1/A + 1/B).  (And, of course, the distances must be the same.)  Take an extreme example.  I can "coast" down a mountain and get 1000 MPG then go back up and get 20 MPG.  My average is certainly not 510 MPG!  It is, in fact, only 39.2 MPG.

The nice thing about using L/100km is that you can use the (A+B)/2 formula.

[ptjones]

Please note that we can't average MPGs with the normal "average" equation of Avg=(A+B)/2.  We must use Avg=2*A*B/(A+B) or if you prefer, Avg=2/(1/A + 1/B).  (And, of course, the distances must be the same.)  Take an extreme example.  I can "coast" down a mountain and get 1000 MPG then go back up and get 20 MPG.  My average is certainly not 510 MPG!  It is, in fact, only 39.2 MPG.

The nice thing about using L/100km is that you can use the (A+B)/2 formula.

Using your formula Avg=2/(1/A+1/B) I come up with 54.6 mpg, still Great for 50*F. :yahoo:

 

Paul

[fbov]

You guys are discussing arithmetic mean vs. geometric mean. This only works when comparing similar things, like "trips of equal length."

 

I just calculated my daily average mileage for different length trips.

- morning commute was 20.6 miles achieving 46.3 MPG.

- evening commute was 15.4 miles achieving 56.0 MPG.

 

Arithmetic average is 51.15

Geometric average is 50.869

True average is 50.000

 

I used 0.72 gal. to go 36 miles. That ratio is the true average mileage. The precision was serendipitous.

 

HAve fun,

Frank, who actually has fun with numbers. (Not so much flags.)

Edited January 20, 2016 by fbov

[stevedebi]

Please note that we can't average MPGs with the normal "average" equation of Avg=(A+B)/2.  We must use Avg=2*A*B/(A+B) or if you prefer, Avg=2/(1/A + 1/B).  (And, of course, the distances must be the same.)  Take an extreme example.  I can "coast" down a mountain and get 1000 MPG then go back up and get 20 MPG.  My average is certainly not 510 MPG!  It is, in fact, only 39.2 MPG.

The nice thing about using L/100km is that you can use the (A+B)/2 formula.

I'm not sure I understand why you need to do this. Just set the trip meter, and divide the number of miles by the gasoline used. Am I missing something?

 

It is more complex with our Energi models, where we have to account for the plug in energy.

[ptjones]

With 2013 CMAX Hybrid you get a Trip Summary every time you shutoff the car. If I thought about it I could set the Smart trip gauge every morning and look how I did for the day, but that is problematic.  I mainly watch my tank average to see if it is going up. :)

 

Paul

[SnowStorm]

You would do it because you may have the MPG going from, say, home to work and, separately, the MPG from work back to home.  If you used the Trip meter to get the mileage each way, then you don't have the mileage for the round trip - so you have to calculate it.  The other trip meter may be tied up for the whole tank and the Trip Summary (at car turn off) won't work either if you made a stop along the way!  Whatever the reason, a lot of folks need to do the calculation but often grab the wrong equation.  (BTW, mathematically, its the "harmonic" mean, not the "geometric".)  Again, the equation is only for equal distances only.

[ptjones]

Today I left home about 12 noon and Outside Temp was 30*F.  I had left Oil Pan and Block Heaters on for 4.5 Hrs., planned on leaving a lot sooner and WT was 107*F and garage was about 50*F.  My HVB was low, 39% so the ICE started as soon as I got moving and it only took  half a mile to get WT to 128*F so the car could go into EV Mode.  I believe the IT was around 80*F to start, but by the time I got to work 7 miles later it was 41*F and OT was 32*F. It should have been 30*F warmer than OT, because I had Grill Covers on all three openings.  After thinking about it for a minute I figured out what was going on.  When I got back from AZ the car was covered with road salt and dirt, I had to take all the Covers off, Grills and Wheels to get the car washed, I cleaned all the Covers to reinstall on MADMAX and decided to change things.  The top Grill I had Packing Taped the opening air tight , but decided to put my LEXAN cover on instead so I could open the hood if I needed to.  This has turned out to be not as air tight as I thought so I  taped up any problem areas to solve that problem.  I had also taped up around the edges of center Grill Cover before, but didn't when I reinstalled it. So I taped that up also so I will see if that solves the IT problem.

 

For those members that might be confused by the importance of IT( Intake Temp for the ICE(engine)), the warmer the air going into the Intake, the quicker the ICE heats up and the better your gas mileage. Remember you get the best MPG's when WT is above 202*F and I started out at 107*F and 7 miles later I was at 184*F.  I will see how I do on the way home. :)

 

Paul

[ptjones]

This morning I did the same trip from home to work, 7 miles, but with top and center Grill Covers were sealed up better.  Garage was 44*F, SOC 35%,WT 107*F and IT 78*F. The OT was 30-32*F and the ICE started immediately when I started to move down the street.  As before the WT hit 128*F in half of mile so EV could come on. The IT fluctuated between 48-58*F depending if the ICE was on or not.  The sealing up Grill Covers  improved  IT by at least 7*F,  got 41.8 mpg and went from SOC of 35.8% to 51%.  This is why my second trip of the day is in the 50's-60's mpg's. :)

 

Paul

[ptjones]

Well blocking off all the grill openings is working great, my average so far is 51.6mpg on 400mi. tank and going up.  Yesterday I improved my  average more than a mpg in fifty miles with OT 50*F or below.  One 18 mile trip I got over 63mpg! :)  :shift:

 

Paul