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Foot activated liftgate - two kicks to open?


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I had the same deal with two VW new beetles. Cracking a window or opening a door would help the hatch shut reliably. If all the doors or windows were closed it would often not click th hatch shut correctly.

 

I bet the slight vacuum on the initial kick is causing the collision detection to kick in, and stop the opening. But the second kick works because the movement from the first attempt broke the seal.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Has anyone figured out a fix for this problem? I just got my car last week, and I have noticed the same problem:

1) car cold or having sit locked for some time- occasionally needs 2 kicks to open liftgate

2) car recently unlocked- opens with one kick

3) always closes with a single kick

 

Does this have anything to do with the gaskets being too sticky, the car being so well sealed, the latch needing adjustment, or the opening mechanism just not having enough power?

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Has anyone figured out a fix for this problem? I just got my car last week, and I have noticed the same problem:

1) car cold or having sit locked for some time- occasionally needs 2 kicks to open liftgate

2) car recently unlocked- opens with one kick

3) always closes with a single kick

 

Does this have anything to do with the gaskets being too sticky, the car being so well sealed, the latch needing adjustment, or the opening mechanism just not having enough power?

 

I experience the same as your 1-3 as well, basically.  Unfortunately, I am not sure anyone has figured out the cause, but probably one of the ones you list.  Who knows.

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  • 5 weeks later...

It is designed to work with just one kick. Two kicks is due to too much force detected on the liftgate(due to a tight/sticky seal or overly sensitive obstruction detector). It should open with just one kick.

 

What's happening is

- one kick opens latch and door try's to open(albeit minutely)

- sensor detects resistance and it immediately stops. ( hence why it doesn't move).

- second kick continues the opening movement.

 

I also wonder when the car is locked that the gate lifts too soon before the unlocking mechanism finishes opening. . Hence it not opening when car is locked.

 

Report problem to dealer/ford so that a TSB can be released.

Edited by locot
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had the CMax in for the check engine light and asked them to investigate the occasional two kick issue on the liftgate.  They researched it and responded to my complaint with "found engineering is working on a fix to address this issue, and in the meantime they are suggesting to use the key fob".    So, hopefully Ford is working on a fix to this issue.  It doesn't bother me THAT much, but it would be nice for it to work (perfectly) as designed.

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I had the CMax in for the check engine light and asked them to investigate the occasional two kick issue on the liftgate.  They researched it and responded to my complaint with "found engineering is working on a fix to address this issue, and in the meantime they are suggesting to use the key fob".    So, hopefully Ford is working on a fix to this issue.  It doesn't bother me THAT much, but it would be nice for it to work (perfectly) as designed.
Word on the street is that there is a software update in the works for this.
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Word on the street is that there is a software update in the works for this.

There is...as my meeting with the Ford engineers in Irvine, they told me that the sensor is actually asleep which is why its one kick, 2 kick...not opening today dear, kinda day  ;) 

 

I have this as an open issue with Galpin Ford as well.

Edited by Jus-A-CMax
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The two kicks to open the rear hatch was one of my little annoyances with my C-Max.

Whether it was locked or unlocked it usually took two stabs to open.

This was a simple adjustment that I performed the second day I owned the C-Max and now always open with one kick.

The two rubber bumpers on the underside of the rear hatch are adjusted all the way out from the factory and need to be adjusted in.

To gain access to the adjusting screws the plastic caps have to be removed.

I slid a putty knife under one side and they popped right off.

Next loosen the screw (star bit) and slide the bumper back half way, about 1/4 inch should do it.

Now when the hatch opens you here the motor release the lock and it rises, no more pop and stall.

 

 

Update on this post:

I think I spoke to soon, the wife says it still takes two kicks when its locked to open the rear hatch.

Since the C-Max is her main drive I thought it was fixed. Looks to be something other

than an adjustment.

Edited by leenanj
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The two kicks to open the rear hatch was one of my little annoyances with my C-Max.

Whether it was locked or unlocked it usually took two stabs to open.

This was a simple adjustment that I performed the second day I owned the C-Max and now always open with one kick.

The two rubber bumpers on the underside of the rear hatch are adjusted all the way out from the factory and need to be adjusted in.

To gain access to the adjusting screws the plastic caps have to be removed.

I slid a putty knife under one side and they popped right off.

Next loosen the screw (star bit) and slide the bumper back half way, about 1/4 inch should do it.

Now when the hatch opens you here the motor release the lock and it rises, no more pop and stall.

Brilliant idea.  My rear hatch is slightly higher on the drivers side anyway.  Going to try this when I get home this evening.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was at the dealer yesterday picking up my plates, and wouldn't you know it, every time the salesman tried it with doors locked the damned thing opened on the first try. Got back home and it takes me two kicks when locked.  :banghead:

 

I think they issue the service writers and salesman special shoes.

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Maybe it's a proximity thing.

 

It has happen to me a few times.  After seeing threads on this and thus realizing that maybe it not simply operator error, I've paid a little more attention when using it.  I'm thinking it's maybe the access proximity sensor not waking up fast enough.   I'm not 100% but I think the times mine has only unlocked was when the car had been idle for a long time (hours).   Also if I touch a door handle first before continuing to the back, it opens and raises with one kick.

 

 Are "regular" key SE owners having issues with the optional power lift gate ?   If not, then I think we can quickly narrow this down.

 

Edit: only one SE owner (for sure in this thread) has reported an issue and that was using the remote (that could have been operator error, I've done it too).  So has anyone SE or SEL had an issue with using the rear hatch button ON THE DASH?  

Edited by C-MAXER
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I was at the dealer yesterday picking up my plates, and wouldn't you know it, every time the salesman tried it with doors locked the damned thing opened on the first try. Got back home and it takes me two kicks when locked.  :banghead:

 

The mistake I made when trying to adjust the rear hatch and actually thought I had it fixed was that after locking the car you have to wait

about 10 seconds for the computer to arm the alarm. If you try the kick before that 10 seconds it only take one kick.

After that 10 seconds it takes the two kick.

 

Not sure what Ford needs to do to fix this, hardware or software problem, or maybe they feel this is a safety feature

so the hatch won't open while driving down the road.

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The mistake I made when trying to adjust the rear hatch and actually thought I had it fixed was that after locking the car you have to wait

about 10 seconds for the computer to arm the alarm. If you try the kick before that 10 seconds it only take one kick.

After that 10 seconds it takes the two kick.

 

Not sure what Ford needs to do to fix this, hardware or software problem, or maybe they feel this is a safety feature

so the hatch won't open while driving down the road.

It's not a feature, its software problem with the sensor being asleep per other posts on this forum quoting a ford engineer.

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It has happen to me a few times.  After seeing threads on this and thus realizing that maybe it not simply operator error, I've paid a little more attention when using it.  I'm thinking it's maybe the access proximity sensor not waking up fast enough.   I'm not 100% but I think the times mine has only unlocked was when the car had been idle for a long time (hours).   Also if I touch a door handle first before continuing to the back, it opens and raises with one kick.

 

 Are "regular" key SE owners having issues with the optional power lift gate ?   If not, then I think we can quickly narrow this down.

 

Edit: only one SE owner (for sure in this thread) has reported an issue and that was using the remote (that could have been operator error, I've done it too).  So has anyone SE or SEL had an issue with using the rear hatch button ON THE DASH?  

Just found that interior trunk button. Worked fine.
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Just found that interior trunk button. Worked fine.

 

 

Yup, I have never had the button misbehave so that leads me to believe that it's not a latch mechanism or seal issue.  This weekend while running errands and after only 10-15 mins. from powering down, I had the rear kick method unlock but not lift.

Edited by C-MAXER
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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I got the FSA (Field Service Action, sort of like a recall for non-dangerous things, and unlike a TSB, you don't have to prove you have the issue to get the fix) reprogram for the liftgate done yesterday.  Dealer installed new firmware for the hatch from their IDS system, and now it works with one kick each time.  Prior to the FSA, it would require two kicks if the vehicle was shut down for more than about 3 minutes.  Now it works like it should

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