Thoughts on changing brake pads and rotors

[obob]

I changed my brakes on all four wheels.  A year ago when state inspected was told rear brakes were low and I got them to pass it.  There was uneven wear on one side so one lining was getting thin but the rotors were pretty bad.  I thought it was due to the hybrid braking but looking at videos on the Ford Focus, the deterioration looks similar.  I decided to do the fronts too so I did not have to deal with the mechanics not passing something.  I probably could have gotten by with just one rotor in the front.  Linings were like 60%.  I am glad I did it if just for the fact of becoming aware of the stuck on wheel in the front (see #1)  (55,500 miles, 2013 C-max, parked outside)

 

Thoughts for people that are considering doing brakes themselves.

 

1. One of the front wheels was rusted on.  (WD40 did not help enough.) I ended up needing to use the new style brake piston compressor as a spreader in aiding to break it off.  I pushed off the spokes of the wheel as close as I could get to the center.  I am now leaving the essential parts of the piston compressor in the car in case I need to change tire and can't get it off.  ( I have a spare.)  I did put some silicon grease on the wheel that might help and sanded the rusty areas.  

( I did some thinking and some research  afterwards.  One youtube video showed hitting the rim and tire with a rubber coated sledgehammer.  And then mentioned if that doesn't work, with loosened lugs nuts drive in a circle.  I like that idea if the spreader didn't work. What usually works for me is kicking the tire.  With spreader the kick worked.) 

2. Used a brick to break the rotor off.  A hammer just wasn't heavy enough.

3. I bought rotors and pads for both wheels off ebay for around $100.

4. I am getting older and I used a written rear brake change plan to make sure I didn't miss something.  I probably should have done that for the fronts.  (Forgot to put on a clip, needed to take wheel off again.  It took me about twice as long as I thought it would.

5. A torque socket T45 is needed.  The rest is pretty standard metric sockets, small extension, breaker bar.

6. I used some silicon grease and anti cease to lubricate bolts and pads.  It may have been better to get brake lube.  I actually did not lub all the pads right.  I should have looked at where the pads rub and lubed after that.   I did use that rubbery quiet stuff on the rear pads and some of the front ones. (another thing I forgot)

7. I looked at videos on youtube for ford focus to do the rears.

8. I bought a brake piston compressor kit that also turns which was needed for the rear brakes. (around $20)

 

Picture order (front, rear, front wheel that was rusted/corroded stuck)

(Note the rust on the front rotor was because I left it out in the rain after I took it off.)

Edited August 5, 2020 by obob
added #8

[stratosurfer]

My 2013 now has just under 160K miles and I had the brakes reviewed by my mech when he was investigating a clicking noise on take off, at around 150K miles, I told him to do front, rear or both brakes as needed. When I picked it up, he said the brakes were great and didn’t recommend any service whatever. I do drive a lot obviously, I have a monthly commute of about 1,000 miles and put about 3K miles on the CMax pre-Kung Flu.