Noah Harbinger

This problem has started occurring on my C-Max: Code: U3000 - Control Module. Additional Fault Symptom: Internal Electronic Failure. The FORScan Lite code screen says 'POWER_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK' so I don't think it's the first problem. 'SSHIFT_TQ_S2' reports "-0.1Nm - Steering Shaft Torque Sensor #2', maybe I've gotta get my copy of the service manual, so I can see if that could be the problem - maybe it doesn't like seeing a non-zero value when the car is starting up?

Yeah, when I first got mine (new), I was surprised at how loud it sounds. I think there are two main reasons it sounds different: One, because it's driven by a small electric motor; two, because unlike an ICE engine we hear it running when the motor is off. But I do still think it is louder than most hybrid ACs are.

I'm a bit curious about this, what kind of update were you trying to install?

I feel lucky that I was able to get mine replaced under warranty. It started going bad at 50k miles, and I got it fixed at 75k miles / 7 years.

I'm now in the 'replacement camera' club myself - today I replaced it on my '13 at 110,150 miles. I even used the same youtube video guide as you did, @lowbar! Fortunately, I did not break any tabs on the camera bracket. The little metal clamps that hold the pillar trim pieces along the rear window did break off, though. I feel like the guide arrows on the screen aren't as precise as they were before, so I'll have to get used to that. Some comments on the youtube video were quoting $850-$1350 for the dealer to do it, so doing it for $150 in parts feels like a huge bargain to me!

That detail furthers my suspicion that Ford shot themselves in the ass by omitting the transmission fluid circulation pump on the otherwise-identical Hybrid transmission. I wonder if hyper-milers with the longest periods of battery-only use have seen the most failures?

I'll note that I'm >10 years in (only about 100k miles though) and my battery still seems to be doing fine (HEV_BAT_VAR_V, max variation in voltage between batteries, reads 0.01V, the minimum non-zero possible). I don't know the statistics, but I haven't heard about any abnormally frequent problems with the high-voltage battery pack.

I have no idea if this is an interesting problem, but I had a brake light out. Replacing the bulb seemed to fix it - but only for a little while. The next time I notice it's out, my roommate looks over my shoulder and says "is that corrosion on the contact?" I peer closer at it and see: Two holes! Kind of nuts to me, but maybe when the bulb burned out, it shorted, and the increased current melted through the contact. Still, I would have thought it would have blown a fuse before it melted a contact.

I don't check in nearly often enough anymore (probably a good sign given my car's over 10 years old), but I will enjoy reading if you post more!

I'd bet the project lead couldn't get a manager to sign off on adding another digit.

Yeah, I was pretty surprised by the turning radius, and had a few rear-wheel curb strikes when I first got it.

Personally, if I'm 'waiting a little bit' I'll let the light stay on so that I don't forget!

Not only is there no battery light, the car doesn't seem to notice if the battery is missing - I jump-started my C-Max and drove it without a battery installed, and there wasn't a single peep of concern on the instrument panel! I also used the flash-lights-pump-pedal procedure, and later bought FORScan Lite for IOS and verified that it had worked. Lots of data there to have fun with!

I figured it was time to find out! Bummer....

I live in California and I've had this problem too - during the summer, if it's more than maybe 85 out and I don't put up the sun shades - even for just a quick 15 trip popping in a store - I have no audio system until I let it cool down. It's irritating, but not irritating enough to deal with trying to get it looked at.