Leaderboard

HALLELUJA!!!!!!! Thank you Lord. She runs! First try, it was a tad rough and low rpm(5-600-ish) for a couple seconds and slowly starting picking up rpm to the normal 1500. I waited another 15 seconds and floored it, went up to 2100 (how its always done) and back to 1500 when I let off. Put it in gear and moved it backward and forward a few feet (wife's car is in front). A minute later the rpm fluctuated up and down then went up to 2100 roughly like it was randomly dropping a cylinder then smoothed out and went back to 1500 smoothly, that scenario was maybe 10 seconds. Sat there another 2 minutes, still smooth, HVB already up to 50%. Set the defrost on max but lowest fan speed, to keep the ICE running. Going to let i run a half hour or so, get good and warm. Tomorrow I'll get it scanned. Ate something that didn't agree with me last night, don't feel like doing squat today, almost didn't even go out to try the car but it's warmed up to a balmy 18° so I figured to out. I'm guessing the problem was fuel related, something iced up or froze and maybe had some air in the lines causing that fluctuating/rough running for a few seconds just now.

Just saw the video you posted (odd, I didn't see it te other day). Anyhow, mine didn't even "run" anywhere near that smooth. It was really rough, almost like only one cylinder was firing. And the rpm definitely was not steady. I also noticed at times the up/down arrow flicked from discharge to charge and I'm sure I saw the "EV" flick on once. Either way, fuel pump looks like a good place to start. Haven't done anything yet as it's still been sub freezing. Tomorrow supposed to be in the low 20s in the afternoon. I'll try again in case something was frozen.

To be clear: The BMS only needs reset if changing out the battery. If you're just disconnecting the same battery for some reason and reconnecting it after, there should be no reason to reset the BMS. That's all retained in non-volatile memory that doesn't get affected with loss of power. Also the BMS reset can be DIY'd. The best solution is to use Forscan (either the mobile or PC version, both have the necessary service function) with your OBD adapter of choice. There's some method floating out there of doing a whole dance with the high beams or flashers or something but the issue with that is there's no clear confirmation that it succeeded. With Forscan you can check the battery age PID after the reset to confirm it took.

We finally removed and split-open the HF35 in our 2013 C-Max Energi after 222,500 miles. The "grinding" noise had started ~6 months prior (~12,000 miles prior). This is the first serious problem we have had with this car since new. NOTE: I had changed the transmission fluid twice (first time @ 99,659 miles, the second time @ 200,657 miles). The interval recommended by Ford in the owners manual is every 150,000 miles(!). Three of the four roller bearings in our HF35 had severe spalling. I replaced all four roller bearings as well as the pump filter. In hindsight, I wish I had changed the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles; maybe that would have extended the life, maybe a lot, maybe a small amount. I think 100,000 miles was asking too much out of Mercon LV in the HF35 application, let alone 150,000 miles which Ford recommended. We ordered a 2025 Ford Maverick Hybrid (CVT), and I'll be replacing the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles, religiously. I have about ~$250.00 into repairing the HF35 in our C-Max. Transmission has been reinstalled and car has been test-driven: No more grinding noise. Hoping to get another 100,000 miles out of this car. If you are mechanically-inclined, have a "cherry-picker", transmission jack, and are willing to spend ~$100 on bearing puller tools (if you don't already own them), this can be done with the help of a second mechanically-inclined friend/relative, and not that much $$...

Keep in mind that Energi variants had 0 of 4 transmission failures in the same test that failed 3 of 4 in Hybrid variants.

I used a small booster battery on the jumper posts under the hood to jump the car and to get the lift gate to operate.

Yep; jump the car and you should be able to open the lift gate using the other car's 12v.

I vaguely remember an article about Escape Hybrids in NYC taxi service - It reported that as the Ford Hybrids reached 200,000 miles, Ford was buying them back to disassemble and inspect. The overall aspect of the article was that Ford could not find any problems and they were happy with the results.. Not knowing ; just presuming - I thought that the Escape Hybrid system was the forerunner of the C-Max Hybrid system, and therefore a " bulletproof " system. Anyone else ever see the same information, and draw the same conclusion as Mine ?