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There are jump points under the hood. Use those first to try and jump the vehicle long enough to open the hatch. Seeing issues people have had doing this in the past, you may want to verify you have a solid connection especially on the grounding post (the long grey 'bolt' sticking up in the engine bay on the drivers side near the headlight). Also may need to give it some time if the battery has been seriously discharged to give it enough juice for the appropriate modules to wake up. The BCM is in charge of the locking system and the latching mechanism in the hatch. If the door locks work and interior lights are lit, it should be enough to open the hatch. If all this fails, you'll unfortunately need to climb over the back seat and figure out how to access the battery that way which will be a HUGE paint in the ass. Try the above options first.

I know this post is 5 yrs old. Just posting to possibly help someone else in future who might be reading or searching for solution. 2013 CMax SEL Hybrid 114K miles. Rough running, flashing engine MIL light, P codes: 0302 (cyl 2 misfire), 0202 (cyl 2 injector A circuit), 0316 (engine misfire on startup). I had proactively replaced spark plugs about 1000 miles ago (couple months earlier). First time the above malfunction happened a couple weeks ago I got all new coil on plugs, Motorcraft DG-522, and replaced all four, figuring and hoping it was a coil problem since I was pretty sure the spark plugs were fine. Problem went away for about a week. It happened again so I figured it probably wasn’t a spark problem anymore. Tested resistance between the two pins on each of the injectors with the multimeter, which should be between 11 and 18 ohms. I didn’t know that range of values at the time, but the suspected three good ones from cylinders 1, 3, 4 were about 13 ohms and cylinder two was about 29 ohms. Figured cylinder two is probably beyond a limit. Found online mechanics saying the resistance should be between the 11 and 18 ohms. Ordered four Bosch fuel injectors 62383 figuring I would just replace them all at once. Car had sat now for a couple days so wasn’t worried about fuel pressure or fire. Wasn’t very difficult to replace injectors... Obviously you have to remove the air filter box associated air hoses etc to get at the coils/plugs/injectors. Then took picture of all the wires as is, although I don’t think you could physically cross wire anything in truth on reinstallation. Then removed the wires from the coils and from the injectors, and all the wire mounts, to gain some working room below the wire looms. Blew the gunk out of the injector holes with compressed air. Loosened the two bolts holding the fuel rail on. Jiggled and wiggled the fuel rail plus 4 injectors out of the four cylinders. I did not disconnect the fuel line leading in to the fuel rail. A bit of fuel dripped around out of the injectors (a few ounces total), but I had a rag ready to soak it up. I cleaned the injector holes with the gasoline soaked rag and my finger, and some qtips. I sucked the injector holes with a vacuum to remove any residual debris. Removed the old injectors from fuel rail with a small screwdriver to get the metal clip to release then pulled them out (still working below the wire looms with fuel input line still attached, tight but manageable plus a bit more fuel dripped out). Transferred the old metal clips over to the new injectors. Lubed the new injectors o rings with some Vaseline or could’ve used motor oil. Inserted each injector by pushing in to fuel rail making sure the metal clip latched on the fuel rail lip. Pushed the fuel rail with new injectors back into their 4 cylinder holes. Tightened the fuel injector rail bolts to 17 foot pounds. And plugged everything back in. Double checked it looked right. Started car and pressed gas to make ICE run (1-2 seconds of sputtering as fuel pressure built). Checked for leaks and problems seems solved. We’ll see if it stays gone. Hope this helps someone.

No truer words were ever spoken. In my case, for example, I found out the hard way that the back-up sensors did not work when the 12V battery was failing.

Thanks for your reply. It's about 18 months old. Hopefully not going out again.

From memory some people on this forum have had luck sourcing a used 2016+ transmission from wrecking yards via car-part.com, and getting a local mechanic to install that. It will cost much less than the 7k the dealer wants to charge.

I was hoping someone in the CMAX forum would be interested in taking over for me making Grill Covers for those that can't make their own. It would be a shame not to have them available for New Members. Paul

I've got an idea: take the bed apart, load it back into the car, and take a picture! :doh: :confused: What?

He's an interesting tale. I have 2016 cmax energi . I love this car I bought used with around 50,000 miles on it and luckily it was certified. Anyway jump ahead about year and 17,000 and the transmission starts making noise blah blah blah. Anyway the dealer is great they say they will replace but it's peak COVID and parts were hard to find and the car stayed there for awhile but eventually it got done. Great! I now have car with 70,000 miles on it and new transmission so I'm good. Fast forward 3 years and 50,000 miles and guesses what. The transmission starts making noise. I take it back to the dealer they say it's possibly the transmission out a bearing in the axle and in order to figure it out it's going to cost me $1300 for a half shaft and if the noise is still there then it's the transmission. Ok I guess I don't have choice. The fix they say fixed but it really did not. Some the transmission only has 3 year warranty I'm out of luck. So to summarize Ford replace my faulty transmission with a worse transmission and I now have car with 121000 miles that needs a $7000 transmission...it probably the end of the car honestly.