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You've fallen in love with driving a "stationary" engine. Stationary engines are not intended to move, as our ICE does, but the output requirements are the same: provide a constant level of output power. Unless you move the throttle, the ICE runs the same speed, gives you the same power output (barring switch to EV). After years of driving standard transmissions, where part of driving is listening to shift points, it took a while to get used to. Now, I feel like geared transmissions enslave the engine to road speed. While any good CVT will give you the "constant engine speed" driving experience. few will be as smooth as EV delivers. You'll have choices you like. HAve fun, Frank

That's a good summary, and timely reminder, of the approach I learned at first, and it's good advice, as far as it goes. I use it as an upper limit, depending on traffic and terrain. I gained quite a bit by reducing it to 1.5 bar, after watching RPM (MyView). When I could keep RPM below 2000, fuel use seemed slower. The side benefit of the slower acceleration was that the HVB had longer to charge before I started cruising in EV; win-win! But it does take patience. And you need 2 bars on the highway - depending on traffic and terrain. Of course, I'm also not in Paul's mileage league, especially on the highway. This is what worked for me. HAve fun, Frank

I'll maintain you don't have a Continuously Variable Transmission today. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission The Sonata Hybrid drive train shifts very nicely, but it is a geared drive train. There are shifts to feel, and an engine/motor changing speed in the slow-rise-then-drop pattern of geared drive trains shifting under acceleration. I suspect their use of the motor as part of the dual clutch system may improve smoothness. Our C-Max' have the TRW "synergy drive" that links an engine and two motor/generators through a ring/planet/sun power split device. The power split device elements are fixed ratios. The traction MG is linked to the wheels at a fixed gear ratio. It's a constant speed transmission that can internally vary engine and charging MG speeds. http://www.c-maxenergi.com/2011/02/george-gelb-planetary-gear-hybrid-drive.html A CVT ranges continuously from low ratios to high ratios between input and output shaft speed. That also allows the engine to run at constant speed as the vehicle accelerates, but with a conventional drive train layout. Have fun, Frank

Does recall 14S04 apply to your car? It applies to the stability control module, which had malfunctioned in my car. Prior to the malfunction, I had experienced stability control. It was most disconcerting to feel the brakes when I knew neither foot was on the pedal. Perfectly dry conditions, driving under control, until overruled by the car's "safety" systems. Nothing untoward since it was repaired... And I've thankfully been spared your wet weather performance; these tires meet my needs. Have fun, Frank

What is the load rating for the new tires? OEM tires are 93V, 1433 lb @ 5i psi. If the replacement tires are rated for higher load, you can reduce pressure a little to improve ride, without safety issues. Several 215/65-15s I find are rated higher, thus the suggestion. I hope this helps. HAve fun, Frank

+1 That 1200 lb super cap has the energy content of ~2 lb of gasoline. Only three orders of magnitude to go! Have fun, Frank

You've got it backwards. Heat kills batteries. http://www.tiresplus.com/content/dam/bsro/tiresplus/img/global/TiresPlus-Battery-BatteryExpectancyZone.jpg Frank

You can see the shutters through the grill, if you get low enough. Plenty of space. Frank

Set up My View with a tachometer. I see the ICE running at low RPM during this period. In the Engage display, I see a large blue bar when starting out, switching to the white ICE bar after a short time, with a noticeable increase in engine RPM and noise output. Note there are operating modes where the ICE spins with no fuel used. Pulling away from a cold start isn't one of them. Have fun, Frank

Then plan a trip to Saranac Lake next month. A good -20F overnight cold soak ought to do it. Lots to do during the day, too; all the Olympic venues are still there. I'm actually curious how the "EV on cold start" behavior will change when there's no EV available. But not curious enough to leave the house when it's 10-below.... Have fun, Frank

Same issues for the last two years. Never slowed down this week, and nothing's better now. I'll be sad when this site folds. Frank

Do you think I made this up?

A favorite feature; no idea why it's optional as there is no downside. Frank

This is normal. Your injector assumption is false; the engine is running, all the fuel injected is burned. After a true cold start, the ICE will not deliver torque until it's had a chance to run for a little while. I've mentioned it a few times since this behavior started two years ago, after 14E02 PCM update was applied. Regardless SOC, the car behaves like EV+ when ICE first starts; lots of EV available without tapping any ICE power. Tach (in MyView) says ICE is only running 1500 RPM. "Engage" display shows a big blue bar, no white bar (all EV) until this period ends, then the display switches to big white bar, no blue. This behavior is consistent with a fix for tranny bearing failures due to high torque load before full lubricant flow is established to the bearing. Have fun, Frank

As a reminder, there are minimum HVB operating and charging temperatures. - somewhere near 0F, it will stop discharging; ICE only until things warm up - it won't charge until it's above freezing. It's one reason the HVB circulates cabin air. These are fundamental limitations on Li-ion battery operation, so there's a control system in place to insure operating limits are maintained. Have fun, Frank

I think I saw this once... a long time ago. Others have as well with no long term issues. Check your recall record; there were yearly PCM updates required for my '13. Recall records for any VIN available at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues or for more data on Ford cars... https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do Have fun, Frank

This is my most recent data on tire wear (just switched to snows). It predicts I'll have 2mm left at 44K miles on the OEMs, not far from you, WNY. I figure one more season at most, so new tires in 2018. It'll be interesting to see what's out there! Have fun, Frank

Can you please post the PDF? Thanks, Frank

767 rev/mile gives you a -5% change in miles traveled, so you ought to see a reduction as you're under estimating the distance traveled. Frank

IMHO, pure electric will be more of an urban vehicle until the battery driving range approaches 300 miles, and recharge time is down to ~10 minutes (baseline is a 1999 Mercury Sable). Tesla is close on driving range, not so much charge time. Conversely, I just filled up for the first time this Fall - 8 weeks and 600 miles since last fuel up - which is an ideal application for a pure EV car. I wouldn't give up the trunk space of an Energi, however. Utility is a major factor in driving this car! Have fun, Frank

No. We're telling a control system to turn on the engine. It's not a cable to the throttle. Frank

The closest I've seen is the cold start procedure, where the car stays in EV, down to very low SOC, while the ICE runs for several seconds. I start out uphill at low SOC, which would bring the ICE in early regardless. In some cases, I start out downhill, or with high SOC, and can get out on the highway when ICE first starts. EV power available is comparable to EV+, regardless SOC, and it's easy to get to 45 MPH. But the ICE is running... it's just not powering the wheels. Have fun, Frank PS all I need is to hit the lights and I can top 100 MPG in a 5 mile run home from BJ's. Usually 30 MPG or less driving to...

M plate?

We just added a Sonata Hybrid Limited to our garage. More of a Fusion competitor, with better highway than city mileage. Ours is still too new to say much more. Look in the OM under "Smart Trunk." It's a timing/proximity thing, no leg action. Frank

Maybe, maybe not. You only caught part of the story. Braking in neutral isn't the only answer. Here's what else to look for. What's your mileage? At 50K on my '13, a rear rotor warped, requiring service. The real clues showed up through EBD. Electronic brake distrubution uses the ABS system sensors and actuators to alter the car's front-rear brake balance. This is critical in cars with regenerative braking, as only one axle participates in regen. As my rear brakes initially degraded, I noticed an odd drop in braking force in turns. Just as the car entered a turn, it felt like brake failure, as if the car sped up. Eventually, it started making noise, like a wheel bearing... but it was the brakes. As always, YMMV. Has anyone else who saw the brake force drop, subsequently reuired rear brake service? Have fun, Frank